introDremel Carver/Duplicator like a Human Powered CNC Router
For the last few years I have seen all these cool CNC projects from
affordable rapid-prototyping machines, to laser cutters, to hacked
together CNC routers. One of these days when I have the funds, I will
build one of these CNC machines but till then I thought I would do
something more on my budget.
I have a Dremel and have been buying various router bits for it lately. I was thinking that I could buy one of those Dremel Router tables but, that would be kind of limiting. So then I thought what about building a Dremel Duplicator. It would have three axes and could be utilized much like a CNC Router with the added advantage of copying an existing object.
This is my exploration into building a Dremel Duplicator.
Updates:
+ Revision 1.1 - 01.04.08 - Wood and Metal Pipe construction
+ Revision 1.2 - 01.06.08 - Axes improvements
+ Revision 1.3 - Coming Soon!
I have a Dremel and have been buying various router bits for it lately. I was thinking that I could buy one of those Dremel Router tables but, that would be kind of limiting. So then I thought what about building a Dremel Duplicator. It would have three axes and could be utilized much like a CNC Router with the added advantage of copying an existing object.
This is my exploration into building a Dremel Duplicator.
Updates:
+ Revision 1.1 - 01.04.08 - Wood and Metal Pipe construction
+ Revision 1.2 - 01.06.08 - Axes improvements
+ Revision 1.3 - Coming Soon!

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step 1Design Intent
My original design intent was to create a Dremel duplicator/carver from
readily available and inexpensive materials. This machine should be able
to duplicate simple operations such as holes, channels, and outlines.
Ideally this machine would also be able to manufacture complicated 3D
objects. Future versions may include synchronized turntables and a
mounting plate to hold items in place.
I had this all planned out: draft a simple CAD model to figure out dimensions, print out pieces to use as a template, cut and drill parts, assemble, document, post to contest and brag about how this machine cost less than $20 to build, was modular and reconfigurable. Seems pretty easy but it was anything but&
The main stumbling block in Rev 1.1 was that I did not have access to a drill press. The holes in this project need to be exactly aligned, which is really hard to do with a hand drill.
Rev. 1.2 will show a proof of concept.
Rev 1.3 will hopefully show a refined project.
I had this all planned out: draft a simple CAD model to figure out dimensions, print out pieces to use as a template, cut and drill parts, assemble, document, post to contest and brag about how this machine cost less than $20 to build, was modular and reconfigurable. Seems pretty easy but it was anything but&
The main stumbling block in Rev 1.1 was that I did not have access to a drill press. The holes in this project need to be exactly aligned, which is really hard to do with a hand drill.
Rev. 1.2 will show a proof of concept.
Rev 1.3 will hopefully show a refined project.
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Aug 28, 2010. 4:51 PMknightwalker0384
says:
for larger object go through pages on this sight http://acapella.harmony-central.com/showthread.php?t=2525576
REPLY
Aug 9, 2010. 12:30 PMjoaocarimo
says:
Good job. I've got an idea that could take this to another step. I would
put a laser diode in both edges and an optic sensor as well. The main
idea is to have a low energy laser beam to scan an object with the optic
sensor in order to send the exact values to the high power laser to do
the job using it's optic sensor or diode to guive the input. you
should have a X and Y stepper motor. the x axis steppet motor would
advance as soon as the difference of the value read on the source
scanner and the target is equal to zero. as soon as the x scan is
complete, the y axis advances to start all over again untill a full
replica is created. The laser diode to scan teh source object could be
extracted from a ny tegular cdrom and the high power laser diode, can be
obtained from a regular dvd rw device. The circuit would be very
simple. Other application: a) Scan a full object. b) Magnify / zoom it
to another scale c) duplicate the object in another scale.
REPLY
Aug 19, 2009. 3:51 AM
kenbo0422
says:
kenbo0422
says:
To eliminate the slide problem, there is a 'sliding' ball bearing you can use, called a ball bushing, simply enough. It is a tube with straight 'races' inside. The races contain ball bearings that roll through the races and return the other direction, but not touching the surface as they return. It allows radial and linear movement. They come in many sizes and give a good tight fit when used with the proper sized shaft.

REPLY
Jul 9, 2010. 9:09 AMjonov1
says:
You're a good man, kenbo0422. This piece of hardware will simplify a
great deal the CNC I was planning to build. Thanks for this piece of tip.
REPLY
Apr 6, 2010. 9:50 PMhategoat08
says:
copycarver.com
REPLY
Mar 27, 2009. 7:22 PMwch
says:
I carve mask and gargoles and I have tried to used a dremal yool in my
duplicator and found it does not have enough power for any real serious
work ,instead use a trim router as it has a lot more power and you will
see the chops fly and listen to the people about beefing up your design.
REPLY
Aug 19, 2009. 3:58 AM
kenbo0422
says:
kenbo0422
says:
To get a better accuracy at the tip of the dremel: Use another dremel tip in place of the screwdriver. The exact profile of the tip will give you better results. Also, fill in the cutting ridges on the profiler tip with epoxy or putty... Since the carving tip is spinning, its profile is virtually solid, so the profiling tip needs to be solid as well.
REPLY
Aug 18, 2009. 11:08 PMstatic
says:
IMO no matter how much flex you remove flex from the other components,
slides rails and bushings are going to be a problem. They work fine in
designs where the carriage is moved by lead screws. Here where the force
that moves the carriages is so far removed from the slides, I believe
control will remain a issue. Using two parallel tubes where there is now
one tube just might help, but may introduce other problems Good luck in
getting it all the bugs worked out to YOUR satisfaction.
REPLY
Aug 17, 2009. 3:38 AM
merijnvw
says:
merijnvw
says:
Hi this is really cool. Do you have photos of things you made with it?
REPLY
Aug 15, 2009. 2:07 AMgearhead1951
says:
I dont remember th' titles , but there are a number of tutorial boks on
routers and router jigs and at least one that covered a 3 axis
pantograph that was capable of carving in th' round , that is , to
carve a free standing copy of a statue ! I last saw this book in VA in
1997 Gearhead
REPLY
Aug 14, 2009. 8:46 PMkmpres
says:
Hey, nice work! I really like the low-tech approach; human arm power
instead of stepper motors, no need for electronics, etc. Some diagonal
bracing will help a lot, I think, as well as a front piece connecting
the two side rails together makng a four sided box instead of the three
sides you now have. If a wood peice would get in the way you could make
this out of 2mm thick aluminum. These should go a long way to improving
accuracy and reducing flex in the arms. Also, I noticed the cardboard
surrounding the pipes you bought have the Katakana characters for
"Stainless Pipe" written on them. This probably means those
parts were imported from Japan, or maybe you live there, as do I?
REPLY
Aug 14, 2009. 11:23 PMaltomic
says:
Re: the Katakana - I thought the same thing (having lived in Japan for 4
years and bringing home cartons of Japanese tools and electronics
parts). great instructable. I like it. without the massive complexity
of industrial CNC instructions. thanks
REPLY
Aug 14, 2009. 6:10 PMInstructabilis Deus
says:
That's pretty cool Adran. I tried to come up with something like this a
few years back, but never succeeded completely. A couple of ideas I did
have that might help though were to use a square piece of plywood on a
piano hinge connected to a 1x8, and a couple of ball-bearing drawer
slides for the side to side axis, that the 1x8 attaches to. This gave me
better side to side accuracy. The piece I never figured out, you clearly
did with the drawer slides going forward and back also. Very nice
REPLY
Aug 14, 2009. 1:46 PMaaronscottaugustinhotmail.com
says:
I have to say this is pretty darn cool! But technically because a
computer does not run any of the movement, Its not really a CNC its more
of a mechanical Replicator. Still pretty sweet ible
REPLY
Aug 13, 2009. 3:15 PMimshanedulong
says:
That is a very clever idea! Extremely useful!
REPLY
Aug 2, 2009. 6:58 PMpeterlonz
says:
I am an engineer & I congratulate you on a "rolled up
sleeves" approach to getting your project to the demonstration
stage. Please heed the suggestions above, all are soundly based. Yes
low cost does bring bragging rights, but when the chips are down &
your time, energy & emotions are considered, what you really want is
something that works outstandingly well, within the limitations imposed
by your chosen cutter head. Construction precision, well chosen stable
materials, & rigidity are are key to performance. If you could build
this for $150 excluding the cutting head & reach the performance
objective, that would be an outstanding achievement. Keep developing
& don't be afraid to start over - and please buy that damned drill
press.
REPLY
May 29, 2009. 10:40 PMarmylifer
says:
Nice beginnings. Release your stylus from the hose clamp. To make your
stylus springloaded and touch the pattern before the dremel hits the
work piece, make a solid bracket on the swing arm with a hole just large
enough to let the screwdriver or a real stylus to fit in. Make two
adjustable stops to fit on the stylus below the bracket and the other on
the stylus above the bracket. Put the top stop on the stylus and put a
spring on that is easy to compress, but not so that the weight of the
swing arm causes it to bottom out. Put the stylus in the bracket and
put the bottom stop on and secure it once the dremel is almost touching
the work piece. Much less goof-ups and more precision carving. Good luck.
REPLY
Mar 4, 2009. 12:30 PMGEEKSRUS
says:
Poor design due to limited stability of the axis materials you are
using. Try a Arm that reverses the work upside down on the other side of
your table opposite to the model you are attempting to copy, (two
tables) an upside down cutting table and the Template table. What does
it matter if your dremel drops the material upside down away from your
template model? Consider a stiffer Beam; the wooden amusement park
roller coaster is popular because it moves. Wooden Floors are popular
because they flex. Reduce the number of moving parts and increase the
strength and sliding flow with brass bushings or lead bushings, or
wheels or something. Nice try though to be nice. Also if you use a
seesaw type of setup you can increase the size or reduce the size by
moving your dremel tool up or down the beam on the opposite side of the
axis. Note: only if the Beam is 50/50 like a standard seesaw would it
produce the exact copy from he template. good luck
REPLY
May 26, 2009. 9:15 AM
jackzylkin
says:
jackzylkin
says:
Don't listen to GeeksRUs. Your design is really impressive, considering how ultra-low fi you kept everything. It is way possible to build a good router duplicator with exactly these materials (I have), but I agree with flaco1: consider using diagonal bracing in your next rev -- as is, your design will flex a lot since everything is square, not triangular. And why not get a drill press dude? They are cheap and you deserve one after all this effort.
REPLY
Feb 6, 2009. 5:41 AMRWReade
says:
Looks great, can't wait for you to come up with version 1.3
REPLY
Jan 19, 2009. 11:08 AMflaco1
says:
You can increase the stability of your X axis if you increase the width
of the Dremel holder and add a diagonal brace from front to rear
REPLY
Jan 5, 2009. 10:26 AM
PKM
says:
PKM
says:
This looks like it could be a cool project- a bit like a cross between a key-cutting machine and a pantograph. I wonder whether you will have any problems with fine detail if your "stylus" isn't exactly the same shape as the engraver bit, but I suppose you could always use an engraver bit for a stylus if you were concerned about that (and had a suitable work piece, of course).
REPLY
Jan 5, 2009. 4:31 AM
gmjhowe
says:
gmjhowe
says:
Unfinished? when you do finish it, be sure to add a video!
REPLY
Jan 5, 2009. 6:33 AM
jeff-o
says:
jeff-o
says:
Yes, I'll be looking forward to seeing how well this works when it's done!
REPLY
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