Repito: Este proyecto implica el manejo de sustancias peligrosas y vapores tóxicos. Por lo tanto, no debe ser afrontado por niños ni personas inexpertas o atolondradas.
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WARNING: this project should not be faced by children, because it involves the handling of hazardous substances and toxic fumes.
I repeat: This project involves the handling of hazardous and toxic fumes. Therefore, should not be faced by children or inexperienced or reckless.
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Signing UpStep 1: Para qu� galvanizar (to what galvanize)
El presente instructable tratará exclusivamente, en base a mi propia experiencia y siguiendo las indicaciones dadas por un amigo, de cómo recubrir con zinc una pieza de hierro o acero.
Pido que quienes sepan más que yo del tema no duden en corregirme.
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Galvanizing is a process that serves to protect from rust, and eventually beautify the surface, a piece of iron. It is widely used industrially, being almost exclusive in the treatment of corrugated roofing sheets. It is not the universal panacea, but it is extremely useful.
This instructable will exclusively treat, based on my experience and following the instructions given by a friend, how zinc coating a piece of iron or steel.
I ask those who know the subject more than I feel free to correct me.













































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Here i have placed the link, it is in english but i am sure google will do it justice.
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ert66tbird/website/index.html
The nice thing about it, is that it does not involve any serious chemicals, although, once mixed up, it does constitute a mild acid.
I live at the coast in South Africa and have made some tee's used as concrete anchors, which have been exposed to the elements for some months now, no sign of rust or degradation.
I used an old industrial computer supply which delivers 12 amps at 5 volts, works really well. Any old pc supply should be able to give you that anyway.
I really enjoy your instructables!!
You can use that method to galvanize little parts, surely it is better. But for big parts that have a little rust stain, you can't use it.
I think 5 V 12 A is good for a medium lapse electroplating, but not for this fast method.
I have found that useful plating takes around 10 mins with this method, obviously also dependant on the item size as well and also the proximity to the zinc anode.
What i like about this method is that it can almost be described as harmless. Here i have added extracts from the link for the recipe.
Here is the recipe. I filled the bucket with 3 liters of white vinegar. I then added 300 grams of Epsom salts and 100 grams of sugar to the solution. The solution was then stirred with a paint stick until it was all well dissolved.
Any chance one could use a common welding machine as source of energy, connecting one clamp to the metal base and the other to the brush?
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I think it would be inappropriate, because the welding supplies too power. In addition, there are many AC, like that I use, and you need DC.
The electroplating process demonstrated in the Instructable is not a viable, durable, long term, corrosion resistant solution.
There is a big difference between galvanising and zinc plating. Zinc plating exposed to the weather will corrode very fast. It is a better solution to spray paint the steel with a weatherproof epoxy paint.
Commercial zinc plating involves the electrolytic application of zinc by immersing clean steel parts in a zinc salt solution and applying an electric current. This process applies a layer of pure zinc that ranges from a few microns on cheap hardware components to 15 microns or more on good quality fasteners. Technical and cost issues prevent the economical plating of components with heavier coatings.
Most industrial steel posts are hot dipped galvanised. In an industrial situation where hot dipped galvanising is welded, the weld is painted with a cold galvanising paint. The cold galvanising paint is just as if not more durable that the hot dipped galvanising.
Weather exposed galvanised posts should be painted at the ground level because the atmospheric moisture and the soil will corrode the galvanising at the soil contact point.
The majority of good quality roofing sheets worldwide are plated with a patented process called zincalume. Zincalume is a far superior product to zinc plating and galvanising. The lifetime of zincalume is up to four times that of ordinary galvanised steel. If the zincalume steel is lightly scratched the zincalume coating reacts with the atmospheric moisture and self heals. That is why you can cut a zincalume sheet and the ends will not rust.
Colorbonding zincalume adds another protection layer to the zincalume layer.
If you read carefully my post, you will realize that I am not suggesting this method as industrial procedure or so. It is good enough for little domestic repairs. I know there are other methods, surely some of them better, but I am only speaking about THIS, in order to some persons can know it exists.
Personally, I prefer to use liquid phosphating. It is easier and safer, but I don't know which of both is better.
Is there a limit to the size of object that can be plated?
Excellent works as always :)
Thanks for yout comment.
Thanks for your comment.
Yes, it would be preferable an electrolytic rust removal, but I wanted only to show this method here.