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This Instructable will show you how to make effective prosthetic SFX for your pictures, Halloween or Role Play costumes, or YouTube videos.
The main material is liquid latex, so a few words of warning before we begin.
Please use all normal safety procedures when handling materials and carrying out processes.
Some people have a natural allergy to latex, if they are over 16 years old they will normally be well aware of any such allergy, but please ALWAYS carry out a simple allergy test BEFORE you go playing with this stuff, or sticking it to anyone else!
Also, liquid latex smells like cats piss when it's wet. This is a very small percentage of ammonia that is added to stop the raw latex coagulating in the container. This smell will vanish once the latex cures, but people with very sensitive skin may find it an irritant when being stuck on.
It is advisable to work in a ventilated area.
Please take all precautions necessary.
The main material is liquid latex, so a few words of warning before we begin.
Please use all normal safety procedures when handling materials and carrying out processes.
Some people have a natural allergy to latex, if they are over 16 years old they will normally be well aware of any such allergy, but please ALWAYS carry out a simple allergy test BEFORE you go playing with this stuff, or sticking it to anyone else!
Also, liquid latex smells like cats piss when it's wet. This is a very small percentage of ammonia that is added to stop the raw latex coagulating in the container. This smell will vanish once the latex cures, but people with very sensitive skin may find it an irritant when being stuck on.
It is advisable to work in a ventilated area.
Please take all precautions necessary.
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Latex has been used in the movie industry for well over 100 years. It can be cast, moulded and whatnot and it has amazing tensile and elastic properties.
However, in its natural state it is very heavy, and does not bulk out very easily. Therefore, most movie prosthetics are made from foamed latex and this presents loads of problems for the home movie maker. It needs foaming agents adding and then baking to cure ..... all too much hasstle for me.
In order to use it straight from the bottle, we need to embed stuff in it to bulk it up whilst keeping the weight down. We need to use theatrical grade latex which has a low ammonia content (do an ebay search there's loads of it on there). We also need to keep the final results soft and pliable (it's going on someone's skin after all).
There are many articles on the net about creating wounds and 'zombie skin' by adding oatmeal to the latex etc, these work well but I was looking foe something a little more dramatic.
Materials required:
Theatrical grade liquid latex
Greaseproof or wax paper
Cotton wool balls, pads rolls etc
Sponge rubber pipe lagging or stiff foam rubber
Water based paints (artists acrylic or acrylic ink, watercolour etc.)
Imagination
Method:
Put simply we are going to encase the cotton and sponge in the latex in layers.
Lets begin with a rib cage.
Tape the wax paper down on your bench, draw the basic shape of the rib cage, then paint on three thin layers of liquid latex allowing each to dry in between. The layers are dry enough to work once they go from white liquid to transparent rubber.
Get your cotton wool balls and unroll them, it's easy to find the end and unroll them.
Pull the cotton out into the basic shape, dab a little latex down where the cotton will go then plonk the cotton down and push it into shape.
Coat the upper surface of the cotton with liquid latex, use plenty of latex and a dabbing motion so as not to pull the cotton back up. make sure you get a seal at the edges. Allow this coat to dry, add more cotton and repeat until you have three layers of latex above the cotton.
However, in its natural state it is very heavy, and does not bulk out very easily. Therefore, most movie prosthetics are made from foamed latex and this presents loads of problems for the home movie maker. It needs foaming agents adding and then baking to cure ..... all too much hasstle for me.
In order to use it straight from the bottle, we need to embed stuff in it to bulk it up whilst keeping the weight down. We need to use theatrical grade latex which has a low ammonia content (do an ebay search there's loads of it on there). We also need to keep the final results soft and pliable (it's going on someone's skin after all).
There are many articles on the net about creating wounds and 'zombie skin' by adding oatmeal to the latex etc, these work well but I was looking foe something a little more dramatic.
Materials required:
Theatrical grade liquid latex
Greaseproof or wax paper
Cotton wool balls, pads rolls etc
Sponge rubber pipe lagging or stiff foam rubber
Water based paints (artists acrylic or acrylic ink, watercolour etc.)
Imagination
Method:
Put simply we are going to encase the cotton and sponge in the latex in layers.
Lets begin with a rib cage.
Tape the wax paper down on your bench, draw the basic shape of the rib cage, then paint on three thin layers of liquid latex allowing each to dry in between. The layers are dry enough to work once they go from white liquid to transparent rubber.
Get your cotton wool balls and unroll them, it's easy to find the end and unroll them.
Pull the cotton out into the basic shape, dab a little latex down where the cotton will go then plonk the cotton down and push it into shape.
Coat the upper surface of the cotton with liquid latex, use plenty of latex and a dabbing motion so as not to pull the cotton back up. make sure you get a seal at the edges. Allow this coat to dry, add more cotton and repeat until you have three layers of latex above the cotton.
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Secondly the ammonia content, generally theatrical latex has a content of 0.3% or less, however I have used latex with an ammonia content of 0.6% without problems, do a patch test using a very small amount on the back of the the hand. If there's no reaction at all after say 5 minutes then you should be safe.
Thirdly, if your model has sensitive skin, in which case they may find an itchy reaction or a reddening of the skin. My advice would again be to do a patch test first.
Most people who have an allergy would be aware of it due to the large number of household items that contain natural latex. I personally have never had any problems with any of the theatrical brands of latex.
this stuff can burn your skin! it is tempting to build up one's creation right on the skin, since it might conform and adhere better (or so I thought, one unfortunate halloween eve). If you feel a prolonged burning sensation, call it off. Do as this instructable shows, build it up on wax paper.
I did a zombie once, complete with falling-off flesh bits in the same wat as korybing did, with latex and toilet paper. I used Mehron brand latex, made for stage effects and bought from a theater goods store. Built directly onto the skin, the latex caused no problems, except for the stink that Marshon mentioned before it dried. No burning, itching, rashes or anything.
I know because I once built a prothtetic alien arm thing for halloween last year. it cosisted of a papermache/drywall compound/ fiberglass monstrosity that functiones as a shell and glove that went over my arm and hand. It was attatched by means of latex-painted cloth on my shoulder and armpit. A couple of layers was enough to secure it well and I painted the joint with stage make-up that matched my skin. The joint was smooth and seamless and still could suppourt the arm's weight. It looked pretty nice, if I don't say so myself.
Anyway, It stayed on all day long while I was moving, running around, using my alien arm, and getting poked by curious people trying to figure out where my skin ended and my costume began. It wasn't even that uncomfortable--except of course in the awkwardness inherent in other people's reactions.
Also, you might want to put up a reminder that if you plan to attach the pieces to parts of the body that has hair, you'll want to use spirit gum to attach, not latex.
It hurts.
So much.
So nice to see a make-up instructable that's not about zombies!
Keep it up!
I entered your username in the search box at deviantart.com and found nothing of yours; could you tell me what I did wrong, or provide a direct link?
Also, I'm wondering about hear/sweat/comfort; would this make, say, a night at a Halloween party unbearable
Thanx
Marshon
The latex prosthetics will last a very long time, we have some that are well over 2 years old and still in good condition. The problem with using one for an all night halloween party is the adhesive you use. Latex as a glue is easier to get off when you've finished but is liable to lifting if there is a lot of sweat.
The traditional Spirit Gum will resist lifting but is much more difficult to remove.
Pros-Aid is a much stronger bond once it is stuck, and can easily last out a party but needs a remover to get it off.
As for comfort, all the model I have used have never complained about wearing these latex creations, they are very soft and pliable. There have been a few moans when it comes to removal. No worse than removing a sticking plaster though.
I'm wondering something in regards to latex costumes. I want to make a costume partially between human and feline, but I wish to have a furred face which moves with me. What I was considering was to daub loose cotton wool onto the surface of latex, but I'm not sure if that would be viable. Possibly spirit gum would work. I'm not sure.
I have a simple gelatin recipe that works, especially for foamed gelatin and all the ingredients are safe and readily available. I have also made a couple of alginate head casts.
The fur is either sculpted into the mask and then carefully painted, or embedded in the mask.
Cheers,
Phil
If you like steampunk, have a look at this:
Steampunk robot girl
I just embedded the ends into 6 layers of latex and cotton wool as per the rest of the Instructable.
They are all available on more appropriate sites.