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Electric Brewery Control Panel on the Cheap

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Picture of Electric Brewery Control Panel on the Cheap
If you are into home brewing then you have likely heard of "The Electric Brewery" created and run by a fellow named Kal. If you haven't then get over there and read up. This is the best homebrew setup out there, well thought out, well designed and effectively open source. It uses electric hot water heater elements, a three-kettle two-pump setup, and a process control panel to bring your home brewing to a new level of awesome and easy. Kal has designed a top-notch, no-compromises system that is safe, enjoyable and easy to use. However, it is expensive. Also, Kal is an engineer by training, and as a fellow engineer I cannot possibly leave well enough alone and must change his design. This is job security which is bred into all engineering types. You can substitute fittings and pots and pumps to reduce system cost, but the heart of the "Electric Brewery" system and one of the costliest is the control panel. Here I will show you how I redesigned Kal's control panel with cost in mind, bringing the cost down from around $1500 to $250 without compromising safety and with only a few compromises in function. I can attest to the fact that this control panel works and makes great beer. If that sounds good to you, then read on!
 
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Townst1 month ago
Very excited for this project. I'm having trouble using the DS18B20 sensor from brewhardware with the rex-c700. Any step by step suggestions? Specifically looking for input type selection and wiring configuration. Cheers!
Drewwsharp2 months ago
I had a question regarding the wire diagram and the picture of your actual panel. The diagram says to put the middle prongs of the relays to the heating elements and the top(or bottom?) to the ssr. Though you have the top prongs going to the elements and the middle going to the ssr. I don't know what the picture on the relay means so I don't know how to figure it out without some help.(it's the same relay you had a link to in your parts list) any help would be great. I am building this with very little electrical experience and am mostly just using pictures and the diagram to go off of.
jmengel (author)  Drewwsharp2 months ago

The point of the "wiring diagram" above is that the output from the SSR must go to one side of the NO (normally open) contacts on the relay. The wires then continue from the relay to the heating elements such that if the relay is not energized then the heating elements will not get hot regardless of the signals being sent to the SSR. Using a multimeter you should be able to figure out which terminals on the relay are NO and which are NC (normally closed) as well as which are the coil control terminals. If all this is greek to you then I suggest you read up on relays, get some local help from someone familiar with electronics, or both. If your relays are identical to mine, my recollection is that the pair of terminals on the relays that are all alone at one end are the coil terminals and the other two pairs are NO contacts with the relay not having NC contacts. But verify with a multimeter. Good luck.

jdodell22333 months ago

Hi there, I just got mine wired last night and tested it out and worked great except for one thing.

I decided to use a potentiometer for the boil and it was not controlling the heating element at all, not even turning it on. Do you have any advice for that?

jmengel (author)  jdodell22332 months ago

Sounds like you don't have the boil heating element wired up correctly. There is no simple way to insert a potentiometer into the system as I have detailed it here. You want to use an SSVR in the place of the boil PID and SSR which RAgnacok linked to below and I will link to again here:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=353

Ragnacök made it!3 months ago

A great big thanks to jmengel and the folks out at the electric brewery for putting this instruct-able together. I made a hybrid of their two models and sprung for some extra bells and whistles but completed the project and its working fantastic.

I elected to have a PID for the HLT and the MASH. The boil is controlled by a pot that runs an SSR. I figured that that's all that is needed for the boil and the pot and SSR are only about 36.00 on Auber Instruments web page. I also purchased the housing for the control panel at that page and painted it hammered copper.

Again Kudos to jmengel and the electric brewery. I learned a ton about the properties of electricty. Its been a blast to put together.

Electric Brewery.MOV(320x568) 13 KB
jmengel (author)  Ragnacök3 months ago

Looks like a great build you put together! I'm not sure I understand how your potentiometer runs the SSR for the boil though. An SSR is on or off. Does the pot run a PWM signal (which is what mine does)? How did you do it?

Ragnacök jmengel3 months ago

If you go to auber instruments and look at the ssrs, they have a 40A Solid State Voltage Regulator (see link below). It's just a ssr with a pot. All I did was buy it and follow the wiring diagram on the page. I couldnt tell you how it works, only that it does works great. You can even see the boil element light dim when you turn the pot.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=353

jmengel (author)  Ragnacök3 months ago

Ahhh, basically a big beefy triac dimmer. Works well I bet. I'd use that in the future, but since I already had a standard SSR installed when the PID went out I opted for the PWM approach.

baer19d4 months ago

I just finished my control panel and everything seems to be working correctly, except when I plug in the element to the outlet, it DOESN'T get hot. I'm using a MYPIN TA7 PID, there's power to the element (124v at each hot Terminal), the elements are brand new and have continuity so I' assuming they are working. One thing that is probably an indicator of a problem is the light that turns on when a particular relay for an outlet is energized. When nothing is plugged in, or if just a cord with no element is plugged in, the light stays on. If an element is attached to the cord the light goes off. What could be causing this?

jmengel (author)  baer19d3 months ago

If there is 124VAC to each terminal on the element, what is that relative to? Ground? Neutral? What do you measure across the connector to the element? You should measure 240VAC. For the element to get hot, current has to flow, so it could be that while there is voltage to the element, there isn't current flow. Possibly you have the same "leg" of 120VAC to both sides of the element, or downstream of the element there is an open circuit. It is really hard to troubleshoot this kind of thing verbally over the web. The light thing you mention is a clue. If the light turns off when something is plugged in, does the relay click, as in does the relay turn off? If not, then if the light goes off, then there is no voltage across the light or the element and no current. Which would explain why the element doesn't get hot. Again though, I'd have to get under the hood to really diagnose this. If you provide pictures or a drawing of what you've done that might help. Good luck, stick with it, it will be worth it in the end!

I know it has been a while, but I have a couple of MYPIN P4D PIDs and I found that the wiring diagram on the instruction sheet that came with them was different from the sticker on the PID itself. The polarity of the SSR outputs was reversed. The sticker on the PID was correct. You may want to take a look at that.

I have finished the build of my controller. I used your plans as a basis for it and made a couple modifications. I have run a bunch of tests
and calibrated the thermocouples. It works great!

This past weekend I christened it and brewed two batches. Five gallons of Rogue Shakespeare Stout and six gallons of a Summer Shandy Clone (for my wife). lt was so cool!!!



I ended up with a 120v RIMs PID circuit, a 120v/240v HLT PID circuit and
a 240v SCR Boil Circuit. When the 120v/240V circuit (it has an L6-30
outlet) is switched to the HLT side, it runs at 120v and both it and the
RIMS circuit can run. The kettle element is running at 120v/1375
watts. So I can re-circulate the wort in the mash while heating strike water. When it is switched to the Boil side, it disconnects and shuts
down the 120V RIMS circuit and runs the kettle element at 240v/5500
watts. Set up like this, I can't overload my breaker. I only have a single HLT/Boil
kettle so I will only be using one L6-30 outlet at a time. I do have
two L6-30 outlets, one on the HLT/Boil PID and the other for the SCR
control. They are currently separated (no pun intended). To use the SCR I have to unplug
it from the HLT/Boil PID outlet and plug it into the SCR outlet. I can
still use the HLT/Boil PID to monitor temp, but it isn't controlling
anything. I have routed a switch recess in the back of the front bezel
which I plan to use for a switch to control a cutoff relay to the SCR to
element power connection (once I buy it and re-design the circuits).



I am very pleased with how it turned out. I uploaded a few pictures of it and my brewery on HomeBrewTalk. Check it out:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/brew-controller-b...

The next project is an exhaust hood. A fan in a small basement window is a little anemic.

Thanks for all your help!

Tim

Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. Here is a little further explanation.

Since I am going the use the Keggle as both an HLT and Boil Kettle won't I need to heat up sparge water at the same time the RIMS is running (although with a cooler for a mash tun I could probably turn the element off for a few minutes and still maintain temp). That is why I wondered if the circuit would handle it. I was looking on the net for an amperage calculator to figure the load of the elements and hadn't found
one yet (I forget my Ohms law). I appreciate you telling me the loads. Now I am not sure what I will do. Am I just thinking about it wrong?

I do have another unrelated 120v/20amp GFCI protected circuit close by and could run the RIMS from there, but I really don't want two power cords or two controller boxes.

Since I am using the Keggle for both HLT and boiling I wanted to figure out a way to use the PID during HLT time and the SCR during the boil. You are right I don't need a relay with the SCR, I just need to figure out where to put a switch between the Element and the SCR and PID so I can leave the PID on during the boil and later when whirl-pooling and cooling to watch the temp. I would also like to figure out how to turn off the relays, while still monitoring temp with the PID.

I thought that the SPA panel would all be controlled by the 50 amp GFCI too. But that isn't the case, The GFCI breaker is on the same buss as the rest of the panel. I have tested it and looked at it pretty closely. If someone out there knows how I can re-wire it I would like to know.

With regards to the 50amp breaker / 30 amp circuit wiring you are right, I have wired the sub-panel as a 30amp circuit. It branches off the main panel through a 30amp breaker on the panel. If it ever draws more than 30 amps, it will blow the breaker at the main panel. It will never draw enough load to flip the 50 amp breaker. I am using it strictly as a GFCI for the 240 volt circuit. I finished remodeling my basement last year and pre-ran conduit over the ceiling to run the wire. After I was finished wiring the sub-panel I found a roll of 6 gauge wire that I forgot I bought about 10 years ago hidden behind a stack of boxes. I kicked myself a few times.

jmengel (author)  BittersweetBrews4 months ago

My understanding of sparging would suggest that using the keggle as an HLT and boil vessel would not work. To sparge, I pump hot water from the HLT over the mash and withdraw wort from the mash into the boil vessel. I'm not familiar with your setup.

Since I am running a 1 kettle system I have to do some juggling depending on batch size and how much sparge water I need. I have a 5 gallon water cooler I can I put the sparge water into and gravity sparge from there. If I need more than 5 gallons of sparge water, I have to drain the wort into a 5 gallon bucket until the HLT/Kettle is empty. A seperate HLT is probably going to be my next purchase.

I guess another option, which I hadn't thought of until now, would be to
run the HLT/Boil element at 120V, while the RIMs element is turned on.
Since the sparge water amount would not be near the volume of
the full boil, the time during the mash should give it plenty of time to heat up to sparging temps.
That might be a good solution. I would be able to keep the amperage
below my circuit level at about 22.5 amps and still be able to save some time doing two
things at once. I may need another relay.

baer19d4 months ago

Okay, I fixed the breaker tripping issue. Now my issue is with the 110 outlet for the pumps. How do I split the power between the two receptacles? I have it wired with 2 hots, each going to a toggle switch and one neutral but when I flip either toggle both recepticles have power.

jmengel (author)  baer19d4 months ago

I'm not sure what you are doing, but if you are trying to switch each receptacle in a twin receptacle wall outlet then you will need to run a wire from each toggle to each receptacle separately (one toggle and one hot wire for each receptacle). and also break the connection between the receptacles on the outlet. This is done with a needle nose piers usually, breaking the brass bridge between the two wire attachment screws.

baer19d jmengel4 months ago

I didn't know I had to break the connection on the hot side. As soon as I researched it on Google it made perfect sence to me.

baer19d baer19d4 months ago

Never mind, I figured it out.

bonas4 months ago

I am building a version of this control panel. I started a thread about it on the Electric Brewery website here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic....

OK, here is my system and what I want to do. I would appreciate some advice on feasablility and method. Up to now I have been using propane. I am building an electric brewery beacause it sounds cool and it is getting too cold to brew outside. I have been collecting parts and working on preliminary tasks for a months. I plan on building a controller based on your great Instructable.

I have some questions about modifications I would like to make and wonder where and how I should go about doing them.

First my infrastructure. I am listing prices so others will have an idea what it will cost to do this (about $400-$500 depending on what you have already).

I have run a 240Volt, 30Amp, 4 wire circuit ($14 breaker) to a subpanel in my future brewery area (my workshop - 10Ga wire)). The sub-panel is actually a Midwest Electric Spa Panel I got off ebay for about $34. I had the 10 gauge wire and conduit. It came with one 240V/50Amp GFCI breaker and slots for 4 additional normal breakers (fyi-they are NOT protected by the GFCI breaker). I know that the 50amp GFCI breaker is more than the 30 Amp circuit - I am using it for the GFCI (the breaker on the main panel will trip in an overload). I have added off of the sub-panel two 20 amp circuits, one on each leg of the 240V run from the main panel. On the 240v GFCI circuit I have a 30 Amp, 4 prong dryer outlet and an L6/20 outlet. The brew controller will plug into one of these. On each of the 20 amp circuits ($8 for breakers) I have runs to a standard 20 Amp GFCI outlet ($10 ea) which is also in front of an L5/20 outlet (I had this and 12 gauge wire and conduit for the circuits). I also have a previously installed 120V/20A GFCI circuit in the same area (off the main panel) I can use if necessary.

Now my brewing Equipment. I have built most of this recently and haven't used it yet. So this is where some of my questions will come in.

I have a 50 liter keggle with a 5400 watt ULWD ripple element (Keg-$25, Element-$28). It will run at 240V. For now I plan on using it for heating strike and sparge water as well as a boil kettle.
I have a 54 quart cooler I use as a mash tun (had)
I have a SS RIMS tube with a 5400 ULWD fold over element (about $50-SS parts - $25-Element). It will run at 120V so as to not scorth the wort.
1 Chugger pump with SS head.($129)

Here are the parts I can use for my controller and about what I paid for them:
2 - MYPIN PD4 PIDs for RIMS and HLT (these are the model with manual control) $22 ea
1 - 9500W High Power SCR Electronic Volt Regulator Speed Controller Governor Dimmer for Boil Control $20 - I have tested this by itself and it works great.
2 - SSR-40DA 40A /250V W I/O 3-32VDC/24-380VAC & Heat Sink $8 ea
3 - MAGNECRAFT 92S7A22D-120A Relay,Power,6 Pin,DPST-NO,30A,120VAC $7 ea
4 - DPST Heavy Duty 20A Switches $2.25 ea
3 - DPDT Heavy Duty 20A Switches (ON-ON) $2.75 Ea
3 - DPDT Heavy Duty 20A Switches (ON-OFF-ON) $2.80 ea
1 - L5-20 120v outlet (Had)
1 - L6-30 240v outlet ($11)
1 - 120v duplex outlet (Had)
3 - Thermocouples ($15)
3 - XLR Outlets and plugs ($10)
240V lights ($5)
4 - two row screw terminal panels ($8)
Misc. elect. - connectors, 10Ga cord, wire, etc. (maybe $20 total)

Here are my questions. They are over wiring, how to use the PID and power:
1. Since I plan on using the keggle as both an HLT and boil kettle I am concerned with controlling these two functions. Is the manual mode on the MYPIN PIDs easy and quick enough to control and move temp up and down? I have the SCR controller/governor which works great to turn a burner up and down with the turn of a dial. I think this would lessen the chance of a boil-over while pushing buttons on the PID. What does anyone think about this?
2. If I were to put the SCR controller in the panel how and where in the circuit could I switch the heating element from PID to SCR? Should I just switch the element over at the PID or after the relays?. Do I need another relay for this? Can I leave the PID on to use as a thermometer on the kettle without kicking the relays on (can I turn PID controll off and leave temp monitoring on)?
3. Finally an important question. With both a 120v RIMS and a 240V HLT will I be able to run both of these elements at the same time on my 30 Amp circuit? I can run a seperate cord for the RIMS to the previously installed 120V/20Amp circuit but don't really want two cords coming out of my controller box and don't want to build a second one.

Thanks for any input.

Tim

jmengel (author)  BittersweetBrews4 months ago

1. Most PIDs (I don't have experience with the exact model you refer to) take only a minute or less to change the temp. The volume of water involved means that nothing happens quickly. I don't use a PID for boil, as this isn't a state that is easily maintained by a controller. The above build shows a PID for boil, but I've replaced it with a simple PWM output to the SSR controlled by a potentiometer knob. Far easier to get it boiling visually and dial it back or up as you'd do with the SCR controller knob.

2. I would remove the PID for the boil and just use the SCR between the power and the heater element. Which is to say I'd eliminate the SSR as well. Possibly retaining the selector switch and heater relays so you don't have the RIMS and the boil heaters running simultaneously. The SCR can bring the wort to boil all on its own, and maintain boil without boilover fairly easily with periodic attention on your part. The SCR would be downstream of the main relay, and you could keep the RIMS and HLT/Boil selector switch and relays to keep from running both at the same time.

3. Do you need to run both at the same time? Your 5400W HLT element will draw 22.5 amps at 240V. The 5400W RIMS element will draw half that at 120V. Thus the total is 34 amps thereabouts and you can't run it on the 30A circuit. If the whole subpanel is connected throught the 50A GFCI breaker to the main service you could run a separate 20A circuit for the RIMS and still have GFCI protection since all circuits downstream on the subpanel will be protected if you wired it correctly. The 50A breaker will handle both as long as your wired the subpanel to 50A code. But it sounds like you only wired the subpanel to 30A code with 10 gauge wire and you thus shouldn't use the 50A breaker at all or risk a fire. Why would you want to run the RIMS and Boil at the same time anyway? Your system doesn't appear to be capable of dual batching so there sound be no need to run both.

OK, here is my system and what I want to do. I would appreciate some advice on feasablility and method. Up to now I have been using propane. I am building an electric brewery beacause it sounds cool and it is getting too cold to brew outside. I have been collecting parts and working on preliminary tasks for a months. I plan on building a controller based on your great Instructable.

I have some questions about modifications I would like to make and wonder where and how I should go about doing them.

First my infrastructure. I am listing prices so others will have an idea what it will cost to do this (about $400-$500 depending on what you have already).

I have run a 240Volt, 30Amp, 4 wire circuit ($14 breaker) to a subpanel in my future brewery area (my workshop - 10Ga wire)). The sub-panel is actually a Midwest Electric Spa Panel I got off ebay for about $34. I had the 10 gauge wire and conduit. It came with one 240V/50Amp GFCI breaker and slots for 4 additional normal breakers (fyi-they are NOT protected by the GFCI breaker). I know that the 50amp GFCI breaker is more than the 30 Amp circuit - I am using it for the GFCI (the breaker on the main panel will trip in an overload). I have added off of the sub-panel two 20 amp circuits, one on each leg of the 240V run from the main panel. On the 240v GFCI circuit I have a 30 Amp, 4 prong dryer outlet and an L6/20 outlet. The brew controller will plug into one of these. On each of the 20 amp circuits ($8 for breakers) I have runs to a standard 20 Amp GFCI outlet ($10 ea) which is also in front of an L5/20 outlet (I had this and 12 gauge wire and conduit for the circuits). I also have a previously installed 120V/20A GFCI circuit in the same area (off the main panel) I can use if necessary.

Now my brewing Equipment. I have built most of this recently and haven't used it yet. So this is where some of my questions will come in.

I have a 50 liter keggle with a 5400 watt ULWD ripple element (Keg-$25, Element-$28). It will run at 240V. For now I plan on using it for heating strike and sparge water as well as a boil kettle.
I have a 54 quart cooler I use as a mash tun (had)
I have a SS RIMS tube with a 5400 ULWD fold over element (about $50-SS parts - $25-Element). It will run at 120V so as to not scorth the wort.
1 Chugger pump with SS head.($129)

Here are the parts I can use for my controller and about what I paid for them:
2 - MYPIN PD4 PIDs for RIMS and HLT (these are the model with manual control) $22 ea
1 - 9500W High Power SCR Electronic Volt Regulator Speed Controller Governor Dimmer for Boil Control $20 - I have tested this by itself and it works great.
2 - SSR-40DA 40A /250V W I/O 3-32VDC/24-380VAC & Heat Sink $8 ea
3 - MAGNECRAFT 92S7A22D-120A Relay,Power,6 Pin,DPST-NO,30A,120VAC $7 ea
4 - DPST Heavy Duty 20A Switches $2.25 ea
3 - DPDT Heavy Duty 20A Switches (ON-ON) $2.75 Ea
3 - DPDT Heavy Duty 20A Switches (ON-OFF-ON) $2.80 ea
1 - L5-20 120v outlet (Had)
1 - L6-30 240v outlet ($11)
1 - 120v duplex outlet (Had)
3 - Thermocouples ($15)
3 - XLR Outlets and plugs ($10)
240V lights ($5)
4 - two row screw terminal panels ($8)
Misc. elect. - connectors, 10Ga cord, wire, etc. (maybe $20 total)

Here are my questions. They are over wiring, how to use the PID and power:
1. Since I plan on using the keggle as both an HLT and boil kettle I am concerned with controlling these two functions. Is the manual mode on the MYPIN PIDs easy and quick enough to control and move temp up and down? I have the SCR controller/governor which works great to turn a burner up and down with the turn of a dial. I think this would lessen the chance of a boil-over while pushing buttons on the PID. What does anyone think about this?
2. If I were to put the SCR controller in the panel how and where in the circuit could I switch the heating element from PID to SCR? Should I just switch the element over at the PID or after the relays?. Do I need another relay for this? Can I leave the PID on to use as a thermometer on the kettle without kicking the relays on (can I turn PID controll off and leave temp monitoring on)?
3. Finally an important question. With both a 120v RIMS and a 240V HLT will I be able to run both of these elements at the same time on my 30 Amp circuit? I can run a seperate cord for the RIMS to the previously installed 120V/20Amp circuit but don't really want two cords coming out of my controller box and don't want to build a second one.

Thanks for any input.

Tim

BillM18 months ago

In looking at the wiring for the keyswitch, it seems that power would need at the key to activate the relay. However the keyswitch is connected to common buss and the connection that is unpowered until the relay kicks in. Am I missing something?

jmengel (author)  BillM18 months ago
Ah, yes, good catch. If you look at the photo of the ratsnest below the schematic you can just see the black wire from the keyswitch disappearing into the terminal connector on the hot (black) wire from the 240VAC cable BEFORE the main relay, giving the keyswitch power at all times and thus enabling it to actually energize the main relay. As drawn the schematic is in error and would not work. I'll update that one of these days....
baer19d jmengel4 months ago

Has the schematic been updated to reflect the correction?

jmengel (author)  baer19d4 months ago

No. It is discussed above. Basically the keyswitch needs to be connected to the hot black wire before the relay, as in always on. As drawn, the switch cannot energize the main relay because it is downstream of the main relay. Move the black wire of the switch to the other side of the relay, to the always on side that comes direct from the wall power.

Will you please post your updated schematic to include the heat sinks.

jmengel (author)  carson12037 months ago

The heat sinks go on the SSRs and are not meant to be in the schematic, which is really more of a wiring diagram (with an error as noted by BillM1 above).

What can I do to assist?

Ok Jmengel,

I am no where close to being an engineer. Honestly I am a newbie when it comes to wiring. I love this project. I have all the hardware and am ready to being wiring. I am really nervous and don't want to mess this up. I am having a hard time following your wiring diagram and photos. I require a "rookie" version..... please. This is a huge learning experience for me and I require your expertise. If you could post or email me a wiring diagram for dummies with some explanations so that I may get my learn on. Thanks in advance.

jmengel (author)  carson12037 months ago

I'm sorry to say that I really don't have the time to redo this instructable to a "solder wire A to tab B" level of detail. Since the project uses 240VAC and AC in general throughout, I'd really suggest you bone up on a smaller undertaking before diving in if you aren't comfortable with electricity. AC can ruin your day or end your life if you aren't careful. The diagram as shown has all the info really needed (minus the mistake on the keyswitch wiring) and unless you have sourced the exact same parts as mine I will not be able to provide a pin-to-pin schematic anyway.

That said, if you want to forge ahead, dive in and have specific questions about a portion of the project, I'll be happy to help.

Thanks, I fully understand. I am currently trying to get my learn on. I will send questions as required. Thanks again.

baer19d4 months ago

Well, I had a few wired mixed up. Now as soon as I turn the key switch the GFCI breaker that I installed in my panel trips.

baer19d4 months ago

Well, I had a few wired mixed up. Now as soon as I turn the key switch the GFCI breaker that I installed in my panel trips.

baer19d4 months ago

I replaced the relay and still nothing. Is the relay supposed to click when current is supplied?

jmengel (author)  baer19d4 months ago
When the coil is energized, it will close (or open) the main current carrying contacts. This will result in an audible click.

My guess is the wiring is the problem. Also there is an error in the schematic related to the key switch that is discussed in comments. Could be it.
baer19d4 months ago

Well, I got it all together exactly like the schematic and nothing, no power. There's power to the relay but nothing past that so it looks like the relay isn't working. I'll replace it and see if that's the problem.

baer19d5 months ago

I'm having some trouble understanding the schematic symbols on your schematic for the relays and SSR's. My components don't have the same ones on them. Is it safe to say I can put the wires to the terminals on the relays exactly as your schematic shows? I ask this because it looks like the schematic and the picture show them going to different terminals. Also, for the SSR's I'm assuming the input goes to the AC side and the output to the PID's comes from the DC side. Is this correct and if so does it matter witch terminal, i.e. # 1,2,3, or 4 as mine are numbered?

Thanks, Mike

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