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If you are into home brewing then you have likely heard of "The Electric Brewery" created and run by a fellow named Kal. If you haven't then get over there and read up. This is the best homebrew setup out there, well thought out, well designed and effectively open source. It uses electric hot water heater elements, a three-kettle two-pump setup, and a process control panel to bring your home brewing to a new level of awesome and easy. Kal has designed a top-notch, no-compromises system that is safe, enjoyable and easy to use. However, it is expensive. Also, Kal is an engineer by training, and as a fellow engineer I cannot possibly leave well enough alone and must change his design. This is job security which is bred into all engineering types. You can substitute fittings and pots and pumps to reduce system cost, but the heart of the "Electric Brewery" system and one of the costliest is the control panel. Here I will show you how I redesigned Kal's control panel with cost in mind, bringing the cost down from around $1500 to $250 without compromising safety and with only a few compromises in function. I can attest to the fact that this control panel works and makes great beer. If that sounds good to you, then read on!

Step 1: Bill of Materials

The key to designing this kind of control system on the cheap is flexibility and availability. If you stick to the recipe strictly you may find that you cannot source the specified part locally or economically. Also, depending on your system you may be able to substitute a lower cost lesser performing part safely. So here I am going to present the parts that I used and you can use them as a guide for sourcing your own. In some cases the parts are from the internet and anyone can get them while others are local surplus and you might need to sub. I'll go into detail on what you should look for when choosing parts as needed. So without further ado:

Electronics:
3x DPST-NO 30A 120VAC relay (PN# G2290127 at www.zoro.com/)
3x REX-C700 PIDs (www.dealextreme.com)
2x 60A SSR (www.lightobject.com)
2x 60A SSR heatsink (www.lightobject.com)
2x 30A 250VAC locking 3-wire receptacle (www.homedepot.com)
1x 15A 120VAC two outlet receptacle (www.homedepot.com)
1x 30A 240VAC 6 foot 4-wire dryer cord (www.homedepot.com)
1x Keyswitch (local suplus but this one should work: www.amazon.com)
3x XLR 3-pin male socket (local suplus but this one should work: www.amazon.com)
1x 3/4" cable clamp = $1 (home depot)
2x On-off toggle switches (local suplus but this one should work: www.amazon.com)
1x On-off-on toggle switch (local suplus but this one should work: www.amazon.com)
2x 240V lamps (local suplus but this one should work: www.amazon.com)
Misc spade and ring lugs
Terminal strips for wiring buses (local surplus but similar to: www.amazon.com)

Enclosure:
1/8" Birch plywood (approx. 6 square feet)
Scrap 1/2" plywood or solid strips for frame and back and sides
Titebond III wood glue
Screws for mounting components and securing sides to enclosure

<p>I was wondering what components would have to be switched out, and what to replace them with if I wanted to go with a 50amp service from my range top. I live in an apartment and don't have a dryer outlet. Is it as simple as switching out all the parts here that are rated for 30amp for those rated at 50amp? This would also allow me to use two elements at the same time. Would I end up having to wire it differently to operate both elements at the same time? If you have time to address these questions it would be much appreciated. Cheers!</p>
<p>Unless you plan to brew very large batches (two elements in one big kettle) or two batches back to back, meaning you will be boiling one while mashing another, I don't think there is much utility in going to 50A. If you have a 50 amp service in your apartment for the electric range, just change out the plug on the brewery controller to match whatever you have for your range and build the rest of the system as shown. I wouldn't try it at all unless the breaker for the range is GFCI. </p><p>To answer your question though, you would have to change the system significantly to operate both elements at once. The on-off-on setup currently specced does not allow both to be on and a pair of independent toggles would be needed along with changing out the main contactor and all shared wiring to handle 50A. Not too difficult but if it isn't clear to you then probably not something you want to jump into. </p>
<p>I built a 50 amp setup (2 4500 watt elements) and don't do back to back batches or batches greater than 10 gallons. What I like about it is that it lets me get my brew session going much more quickly. I can heat up the mash water in the boil kettle while heating up the HLT at the same time. If I want to brew after work then I will fill the HTL and boil keggles to the right volume the night before and set the temperatures on the PIDs. When I get home from work I flip the switch, get changed, take the dog for a walk, and by the time I'm done with that I'm ready to pump the water from the boil kettle over to the mash tun and mash in. I love it.</p><p>The only thing I wish I had done differently was put a 5500 watt element in the boil kettle, as my volumes are 6.5 gallons for sparge, while the mash requires 6.5 + grain absorption for mash, and the temperature needs to be significantly higher to account for heat losses to the grain and to the mash keggle. I batch sparge, aiming for equal volumes from the batch and the sparge, so I get 13 into the boil kettle, 12 post boil, 11 into the fermenter, and 10 into 2 corny kegs. I don't worry about grain to water ratio, just aim to have 6.5 in the boil kettle after the mash, and it's worked for me.</p><p>The cost of the control panel was only slightly more expensive (1 extra switch). The real cost was that 6 gauge wire is expensive to run from the breaker to the outlet, and that I needed to use 3/4&quot; conduit which is much more of a pain in the ass. On the flip side, it's an extra $60 for wire. 50 amp spa panels are cheaper than 30 amp CFGI breakers. If you're already going to these lengths then just bite the bullet. I prefer batch sparging anyway, that's why I do it, but if cost is a concern, I'd build a 50 amp setup with only one pump and batch sparge until I could afford to get a second pump for fly sparging. My beer tastes great and I get great efficiency, so I'll stick to batch sparging.</p>
Sorry, my misunderstanding. I thought this setup only provided power to one element at a time. As long as I have power to the HLT and the BK simultaneously that works fine. Yes, two elements in the kettle I'd be using would be overkill.<br><br>My only worry, using the 50amp service, if there was a fault in the 30amp system, it wouldn't trip the breaker, isn't this correct?<br><br>Thanks for the quick reply.
<p>The setup only powers one element at a time. The on-off-on switch only allows one element relay to be energized at a time. Replacing the on-off-on switch with two independent toggle switches would allow both element relays to be on. However you would need to alter the internal wiring and components to handle the load of both elements being on at the same time. </p><p>A fault in the 30A system would still trip the 50A breaker, but not before potentially damaging the 30A components and wiring. With a 30A breaker and components specced for 30A, theoretically a fault would not result in damage (melted stuff). </p>
<p>Trying to troubleshoot my build of this. I checked the output of each heater receptacle. When the PID activates the SSR I get around 240 volts on each one. If the PID has not activated the SSR, I get just under 50 volts on one and around 75 volts on the other. As this is happening, the lights that indicate the heater receptacles are active are bright when the PID activates the SSR, and dim when not. So there is always some voltage unless the toggle switch if OFF. So this causes the heating coil to continually fire albeit at low voltage when the SSR is not activated. This causes the temperature to creep steadily past the set point. Any ideas why? Thanks!</p>
<p>Did you ever get this resolved? Are you sure the heater is actually on/hot when the SSR is not enabled? SSR's, by their standard operation, will leak voltage across the AC terminals but not much current. I had the same issue you did, I was seeing almost the exact same voltages you were reading and a dim lit light. The leak through current is likely enough to power a small light as it probably only requires milliamps to illuminate. I had a scrap desktop fan I wired in to simulate a load on the SSR and the voltage leak went away, there also wasn't enough current to turn the fan. So in short, as soon as there is a load on the SSR, you should get the correct readings.</p>
I seem to have had no problem to start with LOL. I got a response from the Electric Brewery site saying that although there is a voltage leak from the SSR, there is no current, therefore the coil is not on. I tested my system out a few more times and everything seems to be operating as expected. The temp creeping that I had seems to have stopped after I ran the auto tune process on the PID.<br>http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=315869&amp;highlight=#315869
<p>Hmm. Hard to say without having a schematic and list of your components. What relays and SSRs are your using? If wired as shown with DPST relays you shouldn't have any voltage when the SSR is off. If your lights are dim and the heater is pulling some current with the SSR off then your SSR is not really off or the wiring is such that there is an alternate current path when the SSR is off. Are you using GFCI? Have you checked if there is a voltage on the kettle itself? Careful.</p>
<p>Thanks for your reply. I am scratching my head here. I have wired the panel per your schematic. I used the relays you have listed, the PIDs and SSRs from Auberins that The Electric Brewery folks use as well as the LED lamps they use. Not sure how there is the low voltage when the PID turns the SSR off, and full, proper voltage when the SSR is on (the little red LED on the SSR is on too, only when the PID turns the SSR on.) So when the PID sees it hits the target temp, it turns the SSR off (red LED light on SSR goes off). But measuring voltage in the heater receptacle reveals around 50 V on one and around 75 V on the other receptacle (SSR LED is not lit), which is why I the temperature continues to rise in the kettle, albeit slowly. When the toggle switch is in the OFF position, there is no voltage measured from either heater receptacle. Thanks for your help! It is much appreciated.</p>
<p>Just to let you know, some of us are not engineers! ;), some of us are electronix illiterates! .... So what does it mean here? &quot;Lastly<br>we shunt the 12VDC trace to the output lugs so that we can access<br>this signal outside of the housing. We then wire the output terminals<br>on the PID to the SSR as if the PID was always SSR compatible.&quot; It's a foreign language to me, although I'd like to be able to understand what you're getting at. Is there a possibility that a PID and SSR are available that I could use instead of trying to do something I know absolutely nothing about?</p><p>I would just like to build a simple control box with a couple of switched 20A outlets, and a switched 240v 4500W temperature controlled heating element for the HLT. The reason I want everything switched is in case of a malfunction - such as a hose slipping off the barb and spraying hot water all over creation!</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Yep, you can purchase a PID with SSR connections already in place. Take a look at </p><p>http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1&amp;products_id=3</p>
<p>Yep, you can purchase a PID with SSR connections already in place. Take a look at </p><p>http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=1&amp;products_id=3</p>
<p>A great big thanks to jmengel and the folks out at the electric brewery for putting this instruct-able together. I made a hybrid of their two models and sprung for some extra bells and whistles but completed the project and its working fantastic. </p><p>I elected to have a PID for the HLT and the MASH. The boil is controlled by a pot that runs an SSR. I figured that that's all that is needed for the boil and the pot and SSR are only about 36.00 on Auber Instruments web page. I also purchased the housing for the control panel at that page and painted it hammered copper.</p><p>Again Kudos to jmengel and the electric brewery. I learned a ton about the properties of electricty. Its been a blast to put together.</p>
<p>Looks like a great build you put together! I'm not sure I understand how your potentiometer runs the SSR for the boil though. An SSR is on or off. Does the pot run a PWM signal (which is what mine does)? How did you do it?</p>
<p>If you go to auber instruments and look at the ssrs, they have a 40A Solid State Voltage Regulator (see link below). It's just a ssr with a pot. All I did was buy it and follow the wiring diagram on the page. I couldnt tell you how it works, only that it does works great. You can even see the boil element light dim when you turn the pot.</p><p>http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=2_30&amp;products_id=353</p>
<p>I'm trying to figure out if there would be any issues setting up a single vessel to both mash and boil like the &quot;Brew Easy&quot; set up. If I use the PID/SSR for the mash and to also have a voltage regulator in series. When mashing the PID/SSR would alter the power to the boil coil and the voltage controller would be 100%, and alternately the PID/SSR would be 100% with Temp at 250deg and the voltage controller can be dialed to 80% to prevent boil over? Can you think of any electrical issue am I not considering? </p>
<p>I'm not sure if what you propose would work or if I am understanding you correctly. What I would do would be to eliminate the SSR and use the SSVR that Ragnacok links to above in its place. The PID will energize the SSVR according to the set point and feedback from the temperature probe. You can adjust the &quot;strength&quot; of the resulting power sent to the heater with the potentiometer connected to the SSVR. Essentially the SSVR will function as an SSR with the potentiometer at 100% for mashing and you can dial it down to 80% or whatever is suitable when the PID is set &quot;wide open&quot; for boiling.</p>
<p>Ahhh, basically a big beefy triac dimmer. Works well I bet. I'd use that in the future, but since I already had a standard SSR installed when the PID went out I opted for the PWM approach.</p>
<p>Did you wire a relay and switch after the SSVR? I would assume you don't need that as the rheostat goes from 0%-100%, correct?</p>
<p>Is it just me jmengel or is the power on switch wired improperly in your diagram?</p><p>You have the power switch coming form the far side of the Contactor that it is controlling. There is no way that the Hot side of the switch will ever be hot. It should be getting its HOT power from the cord itself.</p>
<p>In honor of our founding fathers, I have gotten off my duff and fixed the keyswitch wiring error in the schematic. The keyswitch now is able to energize the main relay when turned. </p>
<p>Yes, there is an error in the schematic as BillM1 pointed out a while back and still have yet to fix. The switch should connect directly to the cord as you point out. Someday...</p>
Thanks for a great and complete guide.
<p>Thanks for the great design. Does the C-700 display fahrenheit?</p>
I have not been able to get the C700 units that I have to display F. There is a setting for F, but it doesn't seem to do anything. YMMV. It's not that big a deal, just let's you think in C.
<p>I have a question about the switch you made to the pwm. Are you able to get a 100% duty cycle using the 555 chip with a pot? I have been experimenting with different configurations and it seems that I can not get 100% (100%would only be used initially to get it to boil). Could you please share a little on your boil kettle set up? I definitely agree that this is the type of control route to go for this element. Great job on your build here!</p>
A 555 setup would be easiest. <a href="http://www.electroschematics.com/5834/pulse-generator-with-555/" rel="nofollow">Such as this one</a>. But true 100% duty cycle is not going to happen. Is true 100% really going to make a big difference for your application?<br> <br> However, I used a different approach. What I did was to use a potentiometer fed into the comparator input on a small microcontroller board I had laying around. I then used the computed value of the resistance of the potentiometer to generate a PWM duty cycle output that is fed to the SSR to power the boil element. This is strictly overkill but was expedient in that I didn't have any 555 chips handy and had an old microcontroller board sitting around that I air-wired to re-purpose for this task. If you want the code I can share, the micro was an MSP430F169 and the code can be adapted to any version with a comparator input. Even with the capability to get 100% duty cycle, I don't find that we ever use it.<br> <br>
<p>I guess not really needed it was more of a concern of if I am running the SSR open for long periods then closed for short periods why not just run it full 100% if possible. The short amount of time it is off will not make much of a difference in the heating. Now that I am thinking of this is there a freq range I should be trying to stay in? I was initially trying to keep it very low. Thank you for the link!</p>
<p>So the 240V indicator lights for the burners hook to the X and Y hots? No neutral or ground? Would a 120V indicator lamp work just by connecting to either the X or Y and then to the neutral buss? Thanks!</p>
<p>As i recently found out, no you cannot.</p><p>I attempted to use my switched HOT1 line(coming from the SSR) to power a 120V LED.</p><p>The problem is that your other HOT2 line powers on the LED by going through the outlet, and coming back up the HOT1 line's cable through the contactor and completes the circuit with the neutral wire. So basically your LED is on always if your HLT or BK contactor relay is switched open.</p>
<p>There is a reason to use 240VAC indicators across the hots, so they only light up when the SSR is firing AND the relay is active. If you go across one of the hots to neutral then the indicator will illuminate when the relay is active regardless of the SSR status. </p>
So i'm in a situation, I've built and used this system for about 5 or so batches and its worked flawlessly. Today i set everything up, was heating up water, and it has died. Now i am trying to figure out what is wrong. When i turn the key i can here the power relay clicking, but nothing is powering on, any thoughts?
<p>Sorry for the silence. Just really hard to diagnose from orbit. I'd start with a voltage probe and try to see where the power is going. If the main relay is working and the PIDs and other parts are getting 120/240VAC then likely the PIDs are blown. Hard to envision both going at the same time though. If they are, your only recourse it to repair or replace them. I'd want to figure out why they blew before replacing. Good luck.</p>
I figured it out, traced it back to the breaker and one of them blew so I'm good, thanks for your help
<p>I've already ordered everything for the panel and will start my build once it all arrives. My question is what temperature probes to use and where to source them. The ones on Kal's site are a little pricey.</p>
I used the probe kits from Kal, pricey and a bit of a pain to assemble but a well considered kit and they have held up well. Actually they haven't held up all that well. My boil probe &quot;burnt out&quot; somehow due to an inductive kickback I think when someone disconnected the heater element while &quot;hot&quot;. The probe is now an open circuit, which is OK since the water is either boiling or not. The cables have held up and the burnt out probe is really no fault of the probe. I recommend skipping the boil probe anyway, if it isn't boiling, it isn't hot enough.<br><br>What alternatives? You can use whatever probes you can get your hands on. The cheap Chinese PID controllers come with some semi-decent probes that you could use, although the connectors are spade type for screwing to the back of the PID and you'd want to cut them off and add a XLR or similar style connector to match the receptacles on your control panel. Also the cables on the included probes are a bit short but since you have to add a connector you could lengthen them. So that would be the cheapest (free) option.<br><br>Otherwise eBay is a good place. I'd start with the &quot;free&quot; probes.<br>
<p>Thanks for the speedy reply. Finally got everything for the control panel in today so all I need to do now is build my box and start assembly. I own a welding and machine shop so I am building a brushed aluminum box. Other than that I'm following your directions. </p>
Very excited for this project. I'm having trouble using the DS18B20 sensor from brewhardware with the rex-c700. Any step by step suggestions? Specifically looking for input type selection and wiring configuration. Cheers!
I had a question regarding the wire diagram and the picture of your actual panel. The diagram says to put the middle prongs of the relays to the heating elements and the top(or bottom?) to the ssr. Though you have the top prongs going to the elements and the middle going to the ssr. I don't know what the picture on the relay means so I don't know how to figure it out without some help.(it's the same relay you had a link to in your parts list) any help would be great. I am building this with very little electrical experience and am mostly just using pictures and the diagram to go off of.
<p>The point of the &quot;wiring diagram&quot; above is that the output from the SSR must go to one side of the NO (normally open) contacts on the relay. The wires then continue from the relay to the heating elements such that if the relay is not energized then the heating elements will not get hot regardless of the signals being sent to the SSR. Using a multimeter you should be able to figure out which terminals on the relay are NO and which are NC (normally closed) as well as which are the coil control terminals. If all this is greek to you then I suggest you read up on relays, get some local help from someone familiar with electronics, or both. If your relays are identical to mine, my recollection is that the pair of terminals on the relays that are all alone at one end are the coil terminals and the other two pairs are NO contacts with the relay not having NC contacts. But verify with a multimeter. Good luck.</p>
<p>Hi there, I just got mine wired last night and tested it out and worked great except for one thing.</p><p>I decided to use a potentiometer for the boil and it was not controlling the heating element at all, not even turning it on. Do you have any advice for that?</p>
<p>Sounds like you don't have the boil heating element wired up correctly. There is no simple way to insert a potentiometer into the system as I have detailed it here. You want to use an SSVR in the place of the boil PID and SSR which RAgnacok linked to below and I will link to again here:</p><p>http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=2_30&amp;products_id=353</p>
<p>I just finished my control panel and everything seems to be working correctly, except when I plug in the element to the outlet, it DOESN'T get hot. I'm using a MYPIN TA7 PID, there's power to the element (124v at each hot Terminal), the elements are brand new and have continuity so I' assuming they are working. One thing that is probably an indicator of a problem is the light that turns on when a particular relay for an outlet is energized. When nothing is plugged in, or if just a cord with no element is plugged in, the light stays on. If an element is attached to the cord the light goes off. What could be causing this?</p>
<p>If there is 124VAC to each terminal on the element, what is that relative to? Ground? Neutral? What do you measure across the connector to the element? You should measure 240VAC. For the element to get hot, current has to flow, so it could be that while there is voltage to the element, there isn't current flow. Possibly you have the same &quot;leg&quot; of 120VAC to both sides of the element, or downstream of the element there is an open circuit. It is really hard to troubleshoot this kind of thing verbally over the web. The light thing you mention is a clue. If the light turns off when something is plugged in, does the relay click, as in does the relay turn off? If not, then if the light goes off, then there is no voltage across the light or the element and no current. Which would explain why the element doesn't get hot. Again though, I'd have to get under the hood to really diagnose this. If you provide pictures or a drawing of what you've done that might help. Good luck, stick with it, it will be worth it in the end!</p>
<p>I know it has been a while, but I have a couple of MYPIN P4D PIDs and I found that the wiring diagram on the instruction sheet that came with them was different from the sticker on the PID itself. The polarity of the SSR outputs was reversed. The sticker on the PID was correct. You may want to take a look at that.</p>
<p>I have finished the build of my controller. I used your plans as a basis for it and made a couple modifications. I have run a bunch of tests <br> and calibrated the thermocouples. It works great! </p><p>This past weekend I christened it and brewed two batches. Five gallons of Rogue Shakespeare Stout and six gallons of a Summer Shandy Clone (for my wife). lt was so cool!!!<br> <br><br> <br>I ended up with a 120v RIMs PID circuit, a 120v/240v HLT PID circuit and <br> a 240v SCR Boil Circuit. When the 120v/240V circuit (it has an L6-30 <br>outlet) is switched to the HLT side, it runs at 120v and both it and the <br> RIMS circuit can run. The kettle element is running at 120v/1375 <br>watts. So I can re-circulate the wort in the mash while heating strike water. When it is switched to the Boil side, it disconnects and shuts <br>down the 120V RIMS circuit and runs the kettle element at 240v/5500 <br>watts. Set up like this, I can't overload my breaker. I only have a single HLT/Boil <br> kettle so I will only be using one L6-30 outlet at a time. I do have <br>two L6-30 outlets, one on the HLT/Boil PID and the other for the SCR <br>control. They are currently separated (no pun intended). To use the SCR I have to unplug <br> it from the HLT/Boil PID outlet and plug it into the SCR outlet. I can <br> still use the HLT/Boil PID to monitor temp, but it isn't controlling <br>anything. I have routed a switch recess in the back of the front bezel <br>which I plan to use for a switch to control a cutoff relay to the SCR to <br> element power connection (once I buy it and re-design the circuits).<br> <br><br> <br>I am very pleased with how it turned out. I uploaded a few pictures of it and my brewery on HomeBrewTalk. Check it out:</p><p><a href="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/brew-controller-build-questions-507882/" rel="nofollow">http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/brew-controller-b...</a></p><p>The next project is an exhaust hood. A fan in a small basement window is a little anemic.</p><p>Thanks for all your help!</p><p>Tim</p>
<p>Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. Here is a little further explanation.</p><p>Since I am going the use the Keggle as both an HLT and Boil Kettle won't I need to heat up sparge water at the same time the RIMS is running (although with a cooler for a mash tun I could probably turn the element off for a few minutes and still maintain temp). That is why I wondered if the circuit would handle it. I was looking on the net for an amperage calculator to figure the load of the elements and hadn't found <br>one yet (I forget my Ohms law). I appreciate you telling me the loads. Now I am not sure what I will do. Am I just thinking about it wrong?</p><p> I do have another unrelated 120v/20amp GFCI protected circuit close by and could run the RIMS from there, but I really don't want two power cords or two controller boxes.</p><p>Since I am using the Keggle for both HLT and boiling I wanted to figure out a way to use the PID during HLT time and the SCR during the boil. You are right I don't need a relay with the SCR, I just need to figure out where to put a switch between the Element and the SCR and PID so I can leave the PID on during the boil and later when whirl-pooling and cooling to watch the temp. I would also like to figure out how to turn off the relays, while still monitoring temp with the PID.</p><p>I thought that the SPA panel would all be controlled by the 50 amp GFCI too. But that isn't the case, The GFCI breaker is on the same buss as the rest of the panel. I have tested it and looked at it pretty closely. If someone out there knows how I can re-wire it I would like to know. </p><p>With regards to the 50amp breaker / 30 amp circuit wiring you are right, I have wired the sub-panel as a 30amp circuit. It branches off the main panel through a 30amp breaker on the panel. If it ever draws more than 30 amps, it will blow the breaker at the main panel. It will never draw enough load to flip the 50 amp breaker. I am using it strictly as a GFCI for the 240 volt circuit. I finished remodeling my basement last year and pre-ran conduit over the ceiling to run the wire. After I was finished wiring the sub-panel I found a roll of 6 gauge wire that I forgot I bought about 10 years ago hidden behind a stack of boxes. I kicked myself a few times.</p>
<p>My understanding of sparging would suggest that using the keggle as an HLT and boil vessel would not work. To sparge, I pump hot water from the HLT over the mash and withdraw wort from the mash into the boil vessel. I'm not familiar with your setup. </p>
<p>Since I am running a 1 kettle system I have to do some juggling depending on batch size and how much sparge water I need. I have a 5 gallon water cooler I can I put the sparge water into and gravity sparge from there. If I need more than 5 gallons of sparge water, I have to drain the wort into a 5 gallon bucket until the HLT/Kettle is empty. A seperate HLT is probably going to be my next purchase.</p>

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