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Update: So after a few months the element did finally break, although it was partly my fault. After reading some of the comments and doing more research, a simple controller to cycle the element on and off is recommended as the element is more likely to reach critical temps otherwise. This configuration will work, but only if you've got an element with enough resistance to lower the current a bit and built well enough to handle the temps.

About a year ago I started playing with small furnaces to melt down aluminum, and like most people I went with a charcoal/wood burning furnace. However, after a while I decided there must be a better alternative to charcoal burning furnaces. In this instructable I will show you how to build a very simple electric furnace capable of melting down aluminum for casting.

Step 1: Why Electric?

The main reason I chose to convert to electric over any of the other alternatives that involved burning some sort of fuel is efficiency. Greater efficiency leads to lower operating costs and greater melting capability. Burning charcoal, wood, propane, or any other fuel sources require that many conditions be met before optimal efficiency can obtained. This is because burning is a chemical reaction and therefore requires that the optimal stoichiometric ratio be met in order to burn the fuel as efficiently as possible. This makes optimizing the furnace complicated and requires tools that most do not have access to. In addition, even when the optimum ratio is met, there are still bi products that are released that aren't heat. These bi products serve no purpose and therefore decrease efficiency. This brings us to another problem, expelling the exhaust gases. Because the bi products of combustion must be released in order to continue the process, we also wind up releasing heat in that process.

In comparison, an electric burner such as the one I use in this design creates heat simply by converting electrical energy into heat through friction. This leaves fewer sources for efficiency losses and makes for a much simpler design that is also easier to optimize. Also, since there is no chemical reaction, and therefore no bi products released other than heat, the system can be completely sealed, keeping in as much of the heat generated as possible.

Not only is electricity more efficient, but it is also easier to work with an electric furnace. Where as a charcoal furnace requires that you get the fire started, and keep the fire going, an electric furnace only requires you to plug it in.

Finally, there's the price. A bag of charcoal goes for about $6, and a tank of propane goes for about $15 for a refill. This furnace consumes about 2 kW/h of electricity, which will cost you anywhere between 16 and 40 cents per hour depending on where you live (http://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.cfm?t=epmt_5_6_a), and usually doesn't need to run for more than two hours at a time.

Step 2: Materials/Tools

Disclaimer: This project requires working with high voltage, high temperatures, and molten metals. If you have little/no experience with electricity please have someone who is knowledgeable assist you. When operating, use proper safety equipment, including welder's gloves, safety glasses, and wear appropriate attire.

With that out of the way, here's what you'll need for this project:

  • Stove top burner
  • Two 120v power cables or One 240v power cable
  • Chicken wire or similar steel wire
  • Steel bucket (http://www.lowes.com/pd_89804-63872-1212GS_0__?productId=3728457&Ntt=bucket&pl=1¬§tURL=%3FNtt%3Dbucket&facetInfo=)
  • Plaster of Paris
  • Sand
  • High temp spray paint (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-engine-enamel-gloss-black-12-oz.-aerosol-de1613/7140541-P?searchTerm=engine+paint&zoneAssigned=1&prefZC=34602)
  • Duct tape

Tools:

  • Bucket for mixing refractory
  • Drill w/drill bits
  • Masonry bits
  • Multimeter

Step 3: Electrical System

After weeks of trial and error, I was able to come up with an electrical system that not only works, but is very simple and cheap to build. The system consists of a 28 ohm stove top burner connected to two 120v power cables. To calculate the expected output, we'll look at these two formulas: V=I*R and P=R*I^2, V=voltage, I=amperage, R=resistance, and P=Power. From our power equation we see that the greater our amperage, the greater the power output. According to Ohm's law, we can increase our amperage by reducing the resistance of our heating element. If we assume a constant voltage of 240, we can rearrange these formulas to give power output as a function of resistance: P=R*(V/R)^2.

If you decide to use two 120v plugs, you'll need to find two circuits in your house or garage that are 180 degrees out of phase (if you go to your breaker box, each breaker is for a different circuit). If done correctly, a hot wire from each power cable can be used to power the element. Note that if the outlets are not 180 degrees out of phase you won't see 240v. Once you've found two elements that are 180 degrees out of phase, you'll want to take a black lead from one power cable and the white from the other and check the voltage. The voltage will either be 0 (the sine waves are cancelling each other out) or 240 (the sine waves are adding together). Obviously we want the configuration that gives us 240v. Also take note, once the system is wired, make sure to plug each cord into the correct circuit. If you plug them into opposite circuits the voltage will be 0 and nothing will happen.

While you're doing this you'll want to make sure that the circuits you're plugging into have circuit breakers that are rated for at least 15 amps. This setup will pull 8.6 amps on average, but in the case that there's a change in the system or something else is plugged into the circuit you don't want the breaker to cut power in the middle of your melt.

While I didn't do this on my furnace, I would highly recommend connecting the ground wires (green wires) from each cord to the metal bucket, even if you're using the 240v cable. What this will do is, in the event that a wire comes into contact with the bucket, it will redirect the current to ground. During the earlier trials with this furnace I had a wire break due to the heat and short out against the bucket, and it was not a fun experience. Learn from my mistakes.

Step 4: Refractory

This section will a little bit more sparse as I have yet to find a refractory that I can say I feel confident in, but I will provide information on my trials. For those who don't know, refractory refers to the insulation that lines the furnace. Your refractory should be a material that will withstand high temperatures (preferably up to 2000 F) and won't crack under cyclic heating and cooling. My first furnace was lined with Quicrete concrete. It's by far the cheapest option and it worked well for my charcoal furnace. However, I tried using it for my first electric furnace in conjunction with a large flower pot and it cracked itself to pieces within about three uses. I believe this was due to the use of a flower pot which couldn't expand or contract readily enough as well as improper mixing of the concrete as I accidentally made the mixture far too watery. I believe a concrete refractory with a metal container, such as first furnace, would work just fine, but I can not say for certain. My current refractory is a 50/50 mix of Plaster of Paris and store bought play sand. I've seen this used several times, and again believe it is a fine refractory, but again was let down by my own faults. I failed to make a center form for casting the body of the furnace, resulting in the odd appearance. So again, learn from my mistakes, and save yourself a lot of swearing and just make a center form. I've found in the past a piece of poster board works well if lined with aluminum foil (to keep the moisture from collapsing the form) and would also recommend reinforcing the inside with paper plates or something similar. You'll also want something to shape the holes for the power wires. The more time you spend making a good form the less you'll have to spend drilling and chipping away at your refractory once it dries.

Before you cast the refractory, don't forget to drill two holes in the bucket for the power wires to go through as well as make any ground connections if you decide to do so.

The lid is fairly straight forward and the easiest part to cast. To start, you'll want to reinforce the structure with some sort of makeshift rebar. I used chicken as I had it on hand, however I've seen screws, nails, and many other materials used. This step is important, without it the refractory in the lid will crack and fall out. You can see in the pictures that the refractory in my lid has cracked, but it has been this way for a while and has yet to fail. Without the rebar it lasted only about three uses. I used the same Plaster of Paris and sand mixture in the lid as I did in the body.

One last piece of advice, when you cast the refractory, BE PATIENT! Give the refractory a good week to cure before use. Heating the furnace to high temperatures before your refractory has set will destroy the refractory, and replacing refractory can get expensive very quick.

Step 5: Putting It All Together

Once you've poured your refractory and allowed it to cure, you're ready to start putting your furnace together. Start by checking to see that your burner fits snug inside the furnace and make modifications as needed. Once that's done you'll want to start preparing the electrical system. Take you're chicken wire, or similar steel wire, and cut two pieces long enough to wrap around the burner's contacts, come out of the furnace at least about 6", and connect to the power wires. With your burner out of the furnace, use pliers to wrap the wire around the leads coming off the burner. Put the burner back in the furnace, feeding the wires through the holes. For extra insulation and to keep the wires from moving, pack sand or dirt into the holes from the top and side. With the wires sticking outside the furnace bend the ends away from each other, wrap the power wires around their respective steel wires, and loop the steel wire around the power wire as you did for the burner connection. For extra security a bead of solder can be placed on the connections.

High temp spray paint will be used to help insulate the wires and the bucket to prevent short circuits. Apply to the area around the holes and any exposed wire that is not making contact with the power wires or the burner. For added protection I used duct tape around the holes as shown in the picture above. A painted square on the outside surface is useful for temperature measurements if using an infrared thermometer. The paint I used is good for 500 F, if the outside of your furnace is reaching higher temps than that your refractory should be redone and possibly made thicker.

Step 6: Ready for Testing

With your furnace fully assembled there are just a few things left to do before turning it on. First, use your multimeter to check for continuity between the power wires and the bucket. If continuity is made check for direct contact between the wires and the holes and insulate as needed. Continue to recheck until no continuity is established. Next, make sure your furnace is in a well ventilated location, away from any flammable substances, preferably outside. Welding gloves are recommended when plugging and unplugging the furnace, in case of accidental arcing.

With everything ready go ahead and plug in your furnace! Once on, check to make sure that the burning is warming up. NEVER touch the burning while power is on. Not only can you be severely burned, but in rare instances the insulation inside the burner may be damaged or missing and allow current to pass through the outer housing. Placing a hand over the opening is all that is necessary to tell if it is functioning.

For the first run keep the furnace on for about 20 minutes and then turn it off. Allow it to cool completely and then let it go for another 40 minutes, followed by another cooling. This is done to allow any remaining moisture to escape the refractory without causing excessive pressure inside the refractory. Keep an eye out for excessive moisture or large cracks. Once the refractory is dried out and cleared of any signs of damage your furnace is ready to go!

Step 7: Results

These are just some of the things you can cast with your new furnace (I may post casting techniques at a later date). The possibilities are truly endless. Good luck and I hope you enjoyed my latest instructable!

<p>@<a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/TunerFreak/">TunerFreak<br></a></p><p>Have you been able to determine the maximum temperature your burner &amp; refractory can sustain? I'm looking to work with brass and melting cut up old outdoor brass faucets is a good source... Could it melt brass?</p>
@imerrymary I've read that same bad information. Fact is BOTH perlite AND vermiculite are used in gardening for exactly the same reason. Perlite dust is more common in refractory, but I have yet to find a good reason why that is, other than the perlite manufacturing association website pushing it as an alternative use for the stuff. Both perlite and vermiculite dusts are (like all similar dusts) extremely bad for your lungs and carcinogenic. Much more so than cement or plaster. That said, I use perlite dust regularly in refractory and hypertufa.
<p>Would I be able to re purpose an old 650w electric vegetable steamer, or would I need more power?</p>
<p>You'll need more power. Mine was 2000W, I've seen professionally built ones operate on only 1400W, but I doubt anything below 1000W will be able to provide enough energy.</p>
<p>I guess I'll have to spend &pound;9 on a 3KW kettle then, dam I haven't spent anything yet on this project, I had all the stuff already.</p>
<p>use perilite or vermiculite with sand and firecly and cenent foe refractory it cheap and works better</p>
<p>I've been looking for instructions like this for my silver jewelry scraps and maybe coins, so THANKS!! Along the way I learned from a jeweler to use perlite and NOT vermiculite. They're similar but this is from <a href="http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/refractories.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/refractories.html</a> on perlite:</p><p>&quot;The reason it's so good for refractory formulas is because it doesn't conduct heat very well (heat doesn't pass through readily). A similar product is called &quot;vermiculite&quot; it's added to potting soil because it retains moisture. This quality makes it undesirable for refractory.&quot;</p>
what's the highest temperature you've reached with this? I'd like to try and melt copper with this easy set up
I have approx. 20 feet of nichrome heating wire and I was hoping to make some sort of tempering furnace similar to this. I need the furnace to go from about 400&deg; F to about 1400&deg; F. Do you think that's possible?
<p>Depends on the gauge and type of nichrome. Go to</p><p><a href="http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/search.html?&category=Resistance_Wire&n=ACB.q&c=0002006" rel="nofollow">http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/search.html?&amp;c...</a></p><p>and try to find the wire you have. They actually have charts that will tell you how hot the wire will get depending on your amperage as well as the max operating temp for your wire.</p>
<p>If you managed to get 240V from black of one circuit, and white of another, then there is an issue with your home's wiring. You should be getting 120V from black to either white as it is neutral, and 240V from black to opposite black. The black wires are the hot conductors, which, if out of phase, should yeild the 240V necessary. <br>I like you ingenuity with regards to creating a 240 circuit, however, I believe it deserves it's own instructable so as to have enough detail. It should be strongly encouraged that viewers not recreate this either, it can get very dangerous, very quickly. Instead, advise them to use an existing 240V outlet. If they are going to be using this device rarely, then they could simply unplug an appliance to get to the outlet, or for regular users, have an additional circuit installed by a licensed electrician.</p>
<p>thats not entirely true. the White conductor doesn't have to be neutral. It is completely within code to run voltage down a white wire, as long as it is labeled as a voltage carrying conductor. Also, there is no need for a neutral in a 240v circuit, only 2 Legs of out of phase 120v, and a ground</p>
<p>I made one and the element fused to the cement, shorted and turned into a puddle of glass in the bottom with a loud buzz! I think keeping the element out of contact was a good idea. I might have to revisit this when I don't live in an apartment.</p>
<p>This is pretty neat. A nichrome heating element is going to heat to about 1250 degrees normally under 120v. That's just above aluminum's melt temp. If anything, I'd try wrapping that bucket in rock wool insulation or something that would improve it's thermal retention. </p><p>By putting 240v through it, It's probably getting hotter than 1250 degrees. Nichrome's melt temp is 2550 degrees, but I doubt you're getting anywhere near that. From the picture, you're getting some yellow light from the heat. You might be hitting near 1800 or 1900 degrees. It's hard to tell from pictures though.</p><p>A really cool test would be to put some glass in a crucible and see if it melts (use a crucible you aren't looking to use again) and then put some copper/brass in a crucible and see if it melts, throw some borax in to act as a flux.</p><p>Glass is 1800-2000 degrees</p><p>Brass is 1650-1980 degrees</p><p>If either of those melted, I'd make one of these.</p>
<p>Nice project, I never thought of making <br>an electric furnace. When I was taught to solder, we where told a <br>splice should ne both electrically and mechanically secure before <br>applying the solder, I think one should consider using brass screws and <br> nuts here. High temp spray paint only means the paint can withstand <br>high heat, not that it's a good electrical or heat good insulator. I'm <br>having a hard time to come up with a good alternative. Other than <br>tearing trough used electric kitchen range , space heater of or <br>appliances that use electrical power to produce heat to use what can be <br>found inside them combined with proper heat shielding </p><p>techniques. <br> Perhaps one should bite the bullet and plan to use a clothes dryer outlet from the start. while YMMV, finding two 120 V circuits that are feed <br>from the opposite line connections that are conveniently located is left <br> up to good luck. Man is that element white hot I'd be curious as to <br>how long it will last.</p>
<p>http://youtu.be/aU28nWJOQhk</p>
<p>Hey TunerFreak, great project you got there. <br>I'm trying to do something like that but I'm having trouble with the heater element, among other inquiries.<br>Is it 120V or 240V rated? Just to know if its better to find one rated 240V or just apply that to a 120V one.<br>Another thing, how long does it take to melt aluminum?, how hot does it get? And how much have you melted in one try? That is because I have already a crucible, a pretty large one (1 litre), and I want to know if it will work with it.<br>I already have the bucket properly covered with refractory concrete and was thinking of using nichrome wire for the heater but your idea seemed better.<br>Thanks in advance.<br></p>
<p>I'm not sure what the element is rated for, I found it at a thrift store and there was nothing on the element giving any indication. The only thing I'd look for specifically is one with a lower resistance value, as a lower resistance will give you more power. To melt about a pound will take 2-4 hours depending on how well the refractory is made. For something that large I'd recommend looking into wiring two elements or possibly more in parallel. Just keep in mind that doubling the number of elements will also double the amp draw. In my case you'd be pulling about 17 amps, so'll you'll need to make sure your wiring is capable of carrying that kind of current (google wire sizing and amperage). This setup may be able to melt that much metal, but it'd probably take all day. </p>
As a side note, it's &quot;by-product&quot;, not &quot;bi product&quot;, and saying that your furnace consumes 2 kW/h is like saying that the flow rate from a faucet is 2 gallons per minute per minute. I have a hard time believing that your furnace consumes quadratically more energy the longer you leave it on.
<p>Watts in this sense are Volts x Amps. So, 2kW/h is 1000V*2A/1h (or any permutation of V*A that you like that leads up to 2kW). </p><p>On the other hand, watts used as far as work done, you are absolutely correct.</p>
But an Amp already has the 'per unit time' built in: an Amp is a measure of electric current, or charge per time, equal to one Coulomb <strong>per Second</strong>.<br> A Volt is a measure of energy per charge, equal to one Joule per Coulomb.<br> One Watt = one Volt Amp, then, is a Joule per Coulomb times a Coulomb per Second, or just a Joule per Second.<br> <br> There is only one kind of watt;&nbsp;those two things (current*electric potential and energy/time) are the same.
<p>Well, I just re-read the definitions of everything and I was mistaken. I was operating under the assumption that watt hours meant V*A/h. This article from wikipedia explains it much better than I can:</p><p>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilowatt_hour#Confusion_of_kilowatt-hours_.28energy.29_and_kilowatts_.28power.29</p>
<p>Good project. I do have a couple of questions about wiring and safety. Using two cords, I understand the hot (black in the US) wires would be connected to the cooking element leads. I understand the ground (green in US) would be connected to the bucket. What do you do with the Neutral (white in US) leads? Your pictures and your schematic shows them unconnected, but I wanted to verify that. I also have a safety question. I think if you wired all this up with a standard 240V plug and plugged it into a 240V outlet, everything would be safe. BUT, using two cords, it seems that I need to plug one cord into an outlet, then carry the other cord's plug to another outlet that is wired to the other bus bar in the circuit breaker box. My concern is about that trip to the other outlet while carrying the plug. Does the hot prong on that plug have 110V on it? If I managed to brush that prong against something grounded, would I draw a somewhat unnerving arc? If I got myself between that prong and something grounded, might I get a somewhat unexpected shock? I have built a natural gas powered furnace, and it works fine, but I like the convenience of the electric unit you have built. Nice job.</p>
<p>For all 240 volt applications, the neutral doesn't get used. With AC 120v power, when the hot wire is positive(+120v), the neutral acts as negative (0v). With 240v AC power, the white (no longer neutral) wire gets wired out of phase so that when the black &quot;hot&quot; wire is positive (+120v hot), the white &quot;neutral&quot; wire is negative (-120v hot), for a total of 240v. This is a bit confusing since the white wire normally isn't hot EXCEPT when using 240v. </p><p>So, if going with the 2 plug approach, the unplugged prong is 120V HOT when the other is plugged in. The power would be going through the element, but I don't think that would provide enough resistance to keep touching the prong from killing you.</p><p>Anyone doing this should, at the bare minimum, run the wires through a switch in a housing. But this still wouldn't give any warning if the switch is flipped the right way or not. If getting the element from a junkyard, someone could easily grab the temperature control/switch as well.</p><p>Also, I think this wouldn't work in a GFCI outlet since it wont see any power through neutral.</p>
<p>I have 2 issues</p><p>-wires insulated with spray paint, its 240v, you need a better solution</p><p>-the electrical connections being wrapped up, in the furnace probably not that big of a deal, but outside the furnace they make crimp on insulated wire connectors, this would not only allow you to disconnect the wiring from the furnace is a safe repeatable way but reduce the possibility of arcing or accidental 240v shock</p><p>Other than that it seems like a really cool build, I like the idea of an electric furnace and I may have to build one, Thanks for the ideas!</p>
<p>Hi man, I'm a sparkie in the UK and I would just like to say that the basic idea you have here in pretty good however I am concerned about the safety aspect of this project. I'm not going to comment about the merits of US against UK electrics and I know you have said this is dangerous but potentially this is very dodgey. There is no temperature control, thermostat or adequate earthing of the system. You could have used a simmerstat (taken out of an old cooker) installed into the side of the bucket, that would solve all those problems if installed correctly and make it a lot safer, Have a chat with a local sparkie or an appliance repairer and they should be able to point you in the right direction. I'm not tring to shoot you down only make sure you cast lots of good figures. Regards</p>
<p>Hi, I'm just wondering what kind of simmerstat (from an old cooker) would be useful in a project like this one where around 2000F is needed to melt metals. Is there a simmerstat from a cooker that is rated 2000 F ?<br>thnx</p>
How about lining it with graphite or carbon fibre? Or making a graphite based plaster layer? Think the temperature limits are massive on graphite &amp; it's pretty much unaffected by heating/cooling. Just a thought :-)
<p>Need a crucible [old cast iron pot} to finish the project.</p>
<p>Great idea overall, dangerous design limitations.<br>I'm very glad to see comments from Electrical guys about how to make this safer.<br>Good work, and keep it up!</p>
<p>I believe that those two bright metal bands at the terminals of the heat ring are for ground connection. This protects the outside surface of the ring should the insulation fail, a good possibility if you are driving it hotter than it is designed for.</p>
<p>As a professional electrical worker, I must condemn the advice given in step 3 as dangerous.<br> <br><br> <br>If one wants to run on 240v, then use a 240v outlet. <br> <br><br> <br>I'm not real fond of step 5 either. Using uninsulated leads in a place <br>where liquid metal might spill is unwise. Paint and duct tape do NOT <br>count as insulation. <br> <br><br> <br>Better to braze the leads onto the element and wrap them with a <br>refractory cloth of some kind. They can be soldered to the conductors <br>outside of the furnace. One may coat the exposed metal outside the <br>furnace with a proper insulating compound.</p><p>Never sacrifice safety for convenience.</p><p>Other than that, good job.</p>
<p>gr8 job, My furnace on the same bucket alas I strung my own NiChrome wire for the heating element.</p><p> For the center of the furnace I got hold of a kaowool cylinder that was 6 inches ID and strung the NiChrome along the insides using Stainless steel bike spokes for holders. Kaowool is good to 2700 deg F</p><p>I didn't use refractory cement I used pool filter sand, diatomaceous 12 million yr old earth and Sand blasting grit of iron oxide and aluminum oxide between the bucket and the kaowool cylinder, no cracks going on here 'cause it isn't solid.</p><p>Alas mine runs off of 575VAC transformer rated at 2500VA from another project.</p><p>merci beaucoupe for sharing</p>
<p>Great instructable, thanks for posting! Was wondering if adding something like coarse sawdust, shredded paper or mulch to the plaster would increase it's insulative properties and maybe help prevent expansion cracks. The organic matter would burn off in the first firing or so and leave small air pockets and a bit of ash behind; both better insulators than the plaster and sand itself. </p><p>Clay and mud ovens use this technique.</p>
<p>I would advise against using any combustible agent as an insulator in something which will get this hot. A far better insulator could be achieved by creating two layers of plaster with an air gap between.</p>
<p>You need to use both black wires to get 220V what you have is only 110V the way you have it wired in the picture. (check with Volt Meter)</p>
<p>Either that is a 120V hotplate element or he has somehow gotten 220V from his circuit. A burner will never glow that bright orange color with only half of the voltage supply.</p>
<p>Stop me if I'm wrong Geo56:</p><p>The &quot;green&quot; is ground, The white is the &quot;neutral&quot; and the black is the &quot;hot&quot; line.</p><p>In one plug, the hot line is 180 degrees off from the other. So hooking the two &quot;hot&quot; lines up through the heater coil gives you the 240v difference. Is this right?</p>
<p>In your Breaker box you have two 120v bus bars and one Nuturel bus bar and one Ground Bus Bar. In this application you are using One 120v leg from each 120v bus Bar and need to tie in the two Nutural lines to prevent overheating of one nuturel return. The nurturel and ground wires can be bonded togather at the furnace. And connecting the two Blk wires to the element providing the wall outlet are wired correctly and are on deferent bus bars.</p>
<p>Sorry, but you are incorrect. One 120V leg is naturally 240V away from the other 120V leg. Stove burners only use 120V and NEUTRAL for lower power settings. Newer stoves with continuous controls don't even do that - they are wired straight to 220V. Oven elements have 120V from each leg of the mains transformer or does your oven element have a NEUTRAL tap in the middle of it?</p>
<p>Try adding lots of vermiculite (perlite) to your refractory cement. It increases the thermal insulation property as well as reducing the cracking.</p><p>For safety you might consider a convenient 2 pole switch to shut off all electric power whenever you are about to touch the furnace. It won't hurt the melt to lose power for a few seconds while you peek under the lid, and it will keep you safe even if the electrical insulation fails.</p>
<p>The un-insulated steel wires packing 240 volts make me shiver! Modern stove elements such as you show are made to plug into a heat-resistant receptacle in a stove. Such a receptacle is cheap from an appliance parts store, and more than likely free, along with the element, from a stove put out for recycle. Pull out some of the high-temp wires from the stove while you're at it, and you have safe, efficient connections that won't short if they get bumped.</p><p>I'm not sure why you use a black wire from one cable, and a white from the other. If your plugs are properly wired, that should only give you 120V, since the white should be neutral. Rather than mess with finding two opposed outlets, and the inevitable long cords needed, get some 10/3 cable with ground, an appropriate plug, and run from an electric dryer or range outlet. Then you will know for sure the first time that you have a safe 240V supply.</p>
<p>RandyPerson is absolutely right -- you have to use both BLACK wires from the two out-of-phase mains supplies to get 240V.</p>
<p>I agree they aren't the safest option, I always check the system over before turning it on and always don welder's gloves before touching it. If I get my hands on a stove I'll try that, I found my burners at a thrift store. As far as the issue with the power cables, I personally only have one 240v outlet in my garage for my air compressor and I had the 120v cords on hand. This design has room for improvement, but there appears to be a lack of info on electric furnaces and I hoped this info would help someone out.</p>
<p>You're on to a good start, but please be careful. As an electrician myself, I can see the validity of Randy's statements. be sure to cover your stuff. Also, it can be found at your Big Box home improvement store, as well as the appliance repair place.</p><p>I would assume that you scrapped a 120v hot plate for your burner. Keep a good eye on your cords, ALL THE WAY TO THE END. Watch out for that cord to feel hot to the touch. Also look out for things that look cooked or melted. Watch out for that hot plastic smell, too.</p><p>As a homage to your project, I may make it myself, with a few tweaks of my own.</p>
<p>All right all you people way smarter than I,if I used a larger coil,would it get a higher max temp,or just heat faster?The same with say,a 2 coil setup?I'm liking this idea as it may take longer than gas or charcoal,but I am wanting a higher temp to maybe melt brass,bronze,copper,even cast iron?I know the ceramic kilns can go to cone 10 or better,can one like this do it?Thank You!</p>
To clear up some of the confusion over the two 120v wires, here's a site that does a slightly better job explaining it than I do (http://www.nojolt.com/Understanding_240_volt_circuits.shtml). I originally got the idea from Grant Thompson &quot;The King of Random&quot;, in his second video on how to build his arc welder. Second, I will try to upload a new cover photo by this weekend with the power wires insulated.
<p>Simple build (which is good), but I'd look to make better connections electrically than you did there - many elements have spade connectors, which would likely be more secure.</p><p>How long does it take to melt your aluminium ? (for, say, half a coke can's worth)</p>
<p>Can you do me a favor? Please insulate the lead wires. It's just running shivers down my spine. Otherwise; I love the idea and good luck! Don't burn down the back yard.</p>
<p>Awesome furnace, dude! I love how you don't have to mess around with dirty charcoal or expensive propane! I will definitely be making one of these as soon as I get my hands on a stove!</p>

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Bio: I'm a mechanical engineer seeking to further my understanding of automotive design. My first love is cars, but I enjoy designing and building a ... More »
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