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An electric longboard is a great way to get around! It’s also easy to make, lightweight, and it can be charged relatively quickly (with the right charger).

This longboard can get up to 32km/h using the motor before it gets wobbly and dangerous. The acceleration is also great, and the controller can be programmed to eliminate any wheelspins that may occur from a standing start. As for range, it can get a solid 10km range on a full charge; however, it is not-recommended to discharge lithium batteries more than 80% as it wears down their life.

A benefit of this design is that the trucks can be put onto virtually any longboard deck. This means that your longboard can be any size you desire. This is a huge benefit for me since I’m using this longboard to get to school and back, thus I need it to fit in my locker.

This longboard has braking and can also be programmed with different acceleration rates.

It also has regenerative braking, sorry for any confused commentators down below!

Want to follow the rest of our electric longboard builds? Here's my blog where I regularly post updates!

Denial Media

Step 1: Gather Materials Needed

Longboard Materials:

Hardware:

Small Bits:

  • 6x 1/4" by 2.5" bolt
  • 6x 1/4" - 20 nut
  • 4x M4 by 12mm bolt
  • 4x M4 washer
  • 2.5" washer
  • 2.25" washer
  • 6mm strip of aluminum
  • 4mm banana jack connectors

Where did you get your parts from?

SDP/SI: Large pulley (Part#: A 6L25-040SF0910), small pulley (Part#: A 6A25M014DF0906), timing belt (Part#: A 6R25M057090)

eBay: Trucks, wheels, speed controller, connectors

Hobbyking: Motor, batteries, charger, transmitter, receiver

Hardware store: All of the nuts/bolts, washers, aluminum

Homemade: Longboard deck

Notes:

  • The higher the mAh rating on the lithium charger, the faster your battery will charge. Our 800mA charger charged reaaally slow, so I went ahead and bought a 5A charger.
  • The "strip" of aluminum has minimum dimensions. It needs to be a minimum of 121mm by 51mm by 6mm so the mount can be cut from it.
  • The cost for all of these parts is around $300, which is barely nothing compared to commertial electric longboards
<p>So, today I did the first test ride on this skateboard. It rides!!! Board has a few derps with cheap Chinese ESC but apart from that (and wrong rotation direction, lol) everything runs smooth!</p><p>This picture is a quick hack to test if it even works. Not going to leave the battery hang on duct tape!</p><p>I've made a simple android app to control the board via Bluetooth 4.0. Should work with iPhone too, gonna make an app for it too. Bluetooth works through HM-11 board, powered off 3.3v BEC (ESC is opto).</p><p>Battery is NiMH 6500 mAh from Honda Civic Hybrid. Those are ~40$ at ebay on lucky day. Trick is to buy them used. They are usually sold as &quot;bad&quot; batteries &ndash; you cannot use it in Civic, but more than good for projects like this.</p><p>As you can see from the pics &ndash; I didn't make an enclosure yet. I am going to make one out of fibreglass if everything works out.</p><p>By the way, final price went around <strong>130$</strong>. Chinese ESC, used longboard and helpful guy at welding shop!</p><p>Big respect to the author of this instructable. You inspire others &ndash; like me. I guess this is the best feedback and appreciation of your work as a maker.</p><p>Thank you, comsa42!</p>
<p>Wow! Awesome build man! And $130 is far from my $300 estimate... It's suspiciously a bit too low! If the ESC runs in the wrong direction just change two of the wires on the motor. $40 for the battery sounds good, but how did you charge them? Anyways, great build, and I'm always happy to help! :)</p><p>BTW. I'm going to be releasing my bluetooth controller soon, along with an easy charging connector in another instructable, so stay tuned!</p>
<p>Well, I did not include Bondo stuff for making an enclosure at the time of writing, so now it is around ~150$.</p><p>Single stick pair (one battery) can be charged with Imax B6 no problemo, but since my board have 2 stick paris &ndash; I have to charge one pack at a time, and that's annoying.</p><p>I've made a fiberglass enclosure with Bondo and fibreglass mat in 2 layers. Painted it red &ndash; red ones go faster!</p><p>Also, I rewrote the app &ndash; now I can select the underbelly LED color and control the brake properly.</p><p>I also made a kill switch &ndash; a strip of velcro with a washer that is magnetically attached to a &quot;sensor&quot;. You attach this strip to your ankle: when you fall off the board &ndash; controller pushes full brake.</p><p>Since I've incorporated Arduino in this design &ndash; this is an open source thing. Code is ugly, I admit. But if you wanna improve it or build your design around it &ndash; go ahead! https://github.com/toxuin/CivicBoard</p>
<p>How far can you ride with this configuration?</p>
<p>thank you for the base code for the app that will help. I will send you the code once i am done messing with.</p>
What wheels did you use?
<p>Those are some random 77mm wheels I bought used. Called the guy, he said he bought em from Nord boards (?) in USA.</p><p>I had to drill holes in them in order to pass the bolt through. Better get some other wheels, I guess. Be sure they are as large as possible though. 77mm wheels exceed the wheel gear by only ~5 mm.</p><p>I found out that wheels with holes are some sort of an expensive kind (if you would call 40$ expensive for set of longboard wheels anyway). I must say drilling polyurethane is no rocket science and can be done easily by my grandma blindfolded. I mean don't be scared of it, better save some buck if you can.</p>
Did you have to change the washer sizes since you used different wheel sizes? I plan on using 83mm for budget reasons
Yes. I'm using 83mm as well in my next build. Instructable coming soon!
<p>@comsa42</p><p>Hi,</p><p>This looks like a really great instructable and I will hopefully be making it. When do you think (roughly) your improved instructable will be up, along with how much will it cost?</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>I've already made the video for the instructable. It will be up in a day or so from now. As for cost, I'm not quite sure; I'll have to calculate that.</p>
<p>the motor you used is completely out of stock, what would be a good substitute? </p>
<p>order it from hobby king. its on backorder. I ordered it when it was on back order 2 weeks ago. I got it in a week. it shipped 5 days later. got here the next day. shipping was 40$. im in canada</p>
<p>Nice build, Good job!</p><p>Could you link me where you got all the items from?</p><p>Thank you.</p>
<p>Awesome Instructable! Really helped guide me into building my own. Designed the enclosure and made my own connectors (y-plug and extender bridge). Always loved being able to look at the inner workings of anything electronic so I made channels to slide in clear acrylic panels into the enclosures. Everything else comes from following the instructable and use of autocad to make templates for the gear holes. Board weighs about 12-13 pounds and planning to go lower KV for next board along with wider belts and pulleys. Again awesome instructable Thank you for sharing. </p>
<p>Awesome build man! Looks good. How did you connect the two boxes to the board? Screws? I honestly think that that is the hardest part of this build, lol! Anyways, glad to help. I'm going to publish another instructable soon with how to incorporate bluetooth, and quick charging, so that might give you some ideas on how to improve.</p>
<p>What does that push button thing do on the side in one of your pictures? </p>
Hey, what would the dimensions be for a 63mm motor mount?
<p>With this set up, will you still be able to ride by pushing</p>
<p>did you run into problems of a spark occurring when you plugged the esc and the batteries together? i understand that the spark won't ruin any circuity but it'll wear out the connectors, which I don't want to constantly have to replace. or are the bullet connectors already anti-spark somehow?</p>
<p>Hello! This is a great instructable, and I've been following it pretty closely, i just had a few questions regarding the ESC I've chosen since the one you suggested is unfortunately out of stock. I got a cheaper ESC from China, so what features are important to keep in mind when seeing if it's suitable or not? I notice that the one i bought has a cont current of 60 A and a burst current of 380 A, and then it also says that it's input is 2-3 cells of LiPo. Is this highly problematic since the two batteries in series equate to 6 cells? Thanks!</p>
<p>would this esc work: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/120A-ESC-Sensored-Brushless-Speed-Controller-For-1-8-1-10-Car-Truck-Crawler-WA-/262272520600?hash=item3d10a91198:g:WlcAAOSwa-dWsJsO</p>
<p>No, its a 2-3s esc. You at least want a 6s esc :)</p>
<p>could I just epoxy the motor mount to the truck?</p><p>not really sure where I can get access to welding</p>
<p>Hello nice work, but I do not find the support motor, you find do not put in your turoriel. Can you tell me how to find or in wholesales?</p>
Hey is it 6 millimeters or 6 meters<br>
<p>Seriously?</p>
<p>lol</p>
<p>does it matter what ESC you use, because I found some that are a lot cheaper, but I was wondering if it would still work?</p>
<p>No not really, as long it can handle 120A or higher. Also i do NOT recommend a boat or an airplane ESC. Those do NOT have breaks and just slow down, which on the other hand a car/truck ESC does slow you down much faster.</p>
<p>Hi i was looking at this cool brushless with a built in esc what do you thing could it be used </p><p>http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__82887__Black_Widow_4112_320Kv_With_Built_In_ESC_CW_CCW.html</p>
Isnt antispark required?
<p>What can I do to improve the range for the board? Would just adding more batteries be a good idea, my gut reaction is probably not, but still totally unsure of what goes into all of this. Also, what grade hills can this baby tackle? I've seen the boosted take on a 25% grade, with only around 22 miles an hour, am i right in assuming that this 29 mph board out performs that? thanks in advance and love the tutorial! hopefully I will be able to make one of these of my own soon!</p>
<p>About range:<br>You can't just add more batteries since it will make the voltage higher as well. You have to get batteries with higher capacity instead. This build already uses very high capacity batteries (2x 5000 mah (milli ampere hours)). You therefore have two options:<br>1. Get some higher capacity batteries! It may be difficult to find some 3s batteries with higher capacity than 5000 mah. IF you are lucky enough to find some, they are pretty expensive.. Maybe Alien Power Systems (located in Brittain) or Enertion (I think it is located in Australia, but not sure) have some..<br>2. Add a second motor with 2x 5000 mah 3s batteries. That will also give you a LOT more torque. Then you have to spend money on 2 more batteries, 1 new 120A/150A ESC and 1 new motor as well. </p><p>About going up steeper hills: <br>First of all, you might not even be going up 25 % hills - that is VERY steep!</p><p>BUT, if you need to go up steep hills (or wants to go up hills faster / or wants faster acceleration - which is probably plenty fast with only 1 motor) you can add another motor. Remember that you then need to buy more batteries and another ESC as well! Another motor gives more torque which is what you are interested in. <br>You can't just add more volts to the motor. That will not give you more torque. That will only add the top speed.<br><br>I hope that helps!</p>
<p>Actually to increase the range you can just add more batteries but you have to add them in parallel to the battery circuit. If you add more batteries to the battery circuit in series then you will be pushing to much voltage to the esc. </p><p>the motor controller he used can actually handle up to a 6s battery. He used 2 3s batteries in series to create a 6s battery. So you could buy a single 6s battery it would just be heavier and larger. </p>
<p>Actually to increase the range you can just add more batteries but you have to add them in parallel to the battery circuit. If you add more batteries to the battery circuit in series then you will be pushing to much voltage to the esc. </p><p>the motor controller he used can actually handle up to a 6s battery. He used 2 3s batteries in series to create a 6s battery. So you could buy a single 6s battery it would just be heavier and larger. </p>
<p>http://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/alien-4260-outrunner-brushless-motor-300kv-1500w/ would this work?</p>
<p>yes</p>
<p>is there any way possible to use a brushed motor setup? I have an old traxxas rustler that I would like to use the hardware from. It would save me $150 so I thought i'd ask. </p>
<p>Maybe. <br>If the motor provides enough torque and the ESC is strong enough (between 120A and 150A) you will be fine. The motor's kv (RPM) should roughly be between 200kv and 300kv. With a brushed motor you do not have brakes though!!</p>
<p>Hi, thank you for the excellent guide! It's been super helpful. </p><p>You mention the longboard has breaking, could you explain how you did that? I'm not sure how you implemented it and that's a feature I really want to add. Thanks!</p>
<p>If you use a brushless motor you have breaking by default. If you can't brake it probably has something to do with your ESC calibration.</p>
<p>will these things work? almost everything on cosmas list is on back order. someone reply please </p>
<p>Yes, it will work.</p>
<p>Would this motor be ok for the project: </p><p>http://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-Aerodrive-SK3-6354-260kv-Brushless/dp/B00URCLBRW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458331079&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=Turnigy+Aerodrive+SK3+280kV+Outrunner</p>
<p>Yes. Almost any motor from the Turnigy SK3 series is great! As long as the kv (RPM) is between 200 and 300. This is 260 so it will work great.</p>
<p>would two of these work?</p><p><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67035__Quanum_MT_Series_5206_320KV_Brushless_Multirotor_Motor_Built_by_DYS.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67035__...</a></p>
<p>I don't think so. I think they are too small and the kv (not kilo volts but RPM!) is too high (320 kv). It might work though since you have two motors that will give you some more torque. I would not take the chance though.. Try to find a motor around 200-300 kv. <br></p>
<p>If you buy two motors you also have to buy another ESC and battery!</p>
<p>Is there anyway I could increase the range to about 10 miles/16km?</p>

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Bio: I'm a highschooler who is interested in technology, science, and engineering. In my spare time I work on projects that allow me to learn ... More »
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