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An electric longboard is a great way to get around! It’s also easy to make, lightweight, and it can be charged relatively quickly (with the right charger).

This longboard can get up to 32km/h using the motor before it gets wobbly and dangerous. The acceleration is also great, and the controller can be programmed to eliminate any wheelspins that may occur from a standing start. As for range, it can get a solid 10km range on a full charge; however, it is not-recommended to discharge lithium batteries more than 80% as it wears down their life.

A benefit of this design is that the trucks can be put onto virtually any longboard deck. This means that your longboard can be any size you desire. This is a huge benefit for me since I’m using this longboard to get to school and back, thus I need it to fit in my locker.

This longboard has braking and can also be programmed with different acceleration rates.

It also has regenerative braking, sorry for any confused commentators down below!

Want to follow the rest of our electric longboard builds? Here's my blog where I regularly post updates!

Denial Media

Step 1: Gather Materials Needed

Longboard Materials:

Hardware:

Small Bits:

  • 6x 1/4" by 2.5" bolt
  • 6x 1/4" - 20 nut
  • 4x M4 by 12mm bolt
  • 4x M4 washer
  • 2.5" washer
  • 2.25" washer
  • 6mm strip of aluminum
  • 4mm banana jack connectors

Where did you get your parts from?

SDP/SI: Large pulley (Part#: A 6L25-040SF0910), small pulley (Part#: A 6A25M014DF0906), timing belt (Part#: A 6R25M057090)

eBay: Trucks, wheels, speed controller, connectors

Hobbyking: Motor, batteries, charger, transmitter, receiver

Hardware store: All of the nuts/bolts, washers, aluminum

Homemade: Longboard deck

Notes:

  • The higher the mAh rating on the lithium charger, the faster your battery will charge. Our 800mA charger charged reaaally slow, so I went ahead and bought a 5A charger.
  • The "strip" of aluminum has minimum dimensions. It needs to be a minimum of 121mm by 51mm by 6mm so the mount can be cut from it.
  • The cost for all of these parts is around $300, which is barely nothing compared to commertial electric longboards
<p>So, today I did the first test ride on this skateboard. It rides!!! Board has a few derps with cheap Chinese ESC but apart from that (and wrong rotation direction, lol) everything runs smooth!</p><p>This picture is a quick hack to test if it even works. Not going to leave the battery hang on duct tape!</p><p>I've made a simple android app to control the board via Bluetooth 4.0. Should work with iPhone too, gonna make an app for it too. Bluetooth works through HM-11 board, powered off 3.3v BEC (ESC is opto).</p><p>Battery is NiMH 6500 mAh from Honda Civic Hybrid. Those are ~40$ at ebay on lucky day. Trick is to buy them used. They are usually sold as &quot;bad&quot; batteries &ndash; you cannot use it in Civic, but more than good for projects like this.</p><p>As you can see from the pics &ndash; I didn't make an enclosure yet. I am going to make one out of fibreglass if everything works out.</p><p>By the way, final price went around <strong>130$</strong>. Chinese ESC, used longboard and helpful guy at welding shop!</p><p>Big respect to the author of this instructable. You inspire others &ndash; like me. I guess this is the best feedback and appreciation of your work as a maker.</p><p>Thank you, comsa42!</p>
<p>Wow! Awesome build man! And $130 is far from my $300 estimate... It's suspiciously a bit too low! If the ESC runs in the wrong direction just change two of the wires on the motor. $40 for the battery sounds good, but how did you charge them? Anyways, great build, and I'm always happy to help! :)</p><p>BTW. I'm going to be releasing my bluetooth controller soon, along with an easy charging connector in another instructable, so stay tuned!</p>
<p>Well, I did not include Bondo stuff for making an enclosure at the time of writing, so now it is around ~150$.</p><p>Single stick pair (one battery) can be charged with Imax B6 no problemo, but since my board have 2 stick paris &ndash; I have to charge one pack at a time, and that's annoying.</p><p>I've made a fiberglass enclosure with Bondo and fibreglass mat in 2 layers. Painted it red &ndash; red ones go faster!</p><p>Also, I rewrote the app &ndash; now I can select the underbelly LED color and control the brake properly.</p><p>I also made a kill switch &ndash; a strip of velcro with a washer that is magnetically attached to a &quot;sensor&quot;. You attach this strip to your ankle: when you fall off the board &ndash; controller pushes full brake.</p><p>Since I've incorporated Arduino in this design &ndash; this is an open source thing. Code is ugly, I admit. But if you wanna improve it or build your design around it &ndash; go ahead! https://github.com/toxuin/CivicBoard</p>
<p>How far can you ride with this configuration?</p>
<p>thank you for the base code for the app that will help. I will send you the code once i am done messing with.</p>
What wheels did you use?
<p>Those are some random 77mm wheels I bought used. Called the guy, he said he bought em from Nord boards (?) in USA.</p><p>I had to drill holes in them in order to pass the bolt through. Better get some other wheels, I guess. Be sure they are as large as possible though. 77mm wheels exceed the wheel gear by only ~5 mm.</p><p>I found out that wheels with holes are some sort of an expensive kind (if you would call 40$ expensive for set of longboard wheels anyway). I must say drilling polyurethane is no rocket science and can be done easily by my grandma blindfolded. I mean don't be scared of it, better save some buck if you can.</p>
Did you have to change the washer sizes since you used different wheel sizes? I plan on using 83mm for budget reasons
Yes. I'm using 83mm as well in my next build. Instructable coming soon!
<p>@comsa42</p><p>Hi,</p><p>This looks like a really great instructable and I will hopefully be making it. When do you think (roughly) your improved instructable will be up, along with how much will it cost?</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>I've already made the video for the instructable. It will be up in a day or so from now. As for cost, I'm not quite sure; I'll have to calculate that.</p>
<p>the motor you used is completely out of stock, what would be a good substitute? </p>
<p>order it from hobby king. its on backorder. I ordered it when it was on back order 2 weeks ago. I got it in a week. it shipped 5 days later. got here the next day. shipping was 40$. im in canada</p>
<p>Nice build, Good job!</p><p>Could you link me where you got all the items from?</p><p>Thank you.</p>
<p>Awesome Instructable! Really helped guide me into building my own. Designed the enclosure and made my own connectors (y-plug and extender bridge). Always loved being able to look at the inner workings of anything electronic so I made channels to slide in clear acrylic panels into the enclosures. Everything else comes from following the instructable and use of autocad to make templates for the gear holes. Board weighs about 12-13 pounds and planning to go lower KV for next board along with wider belts and pulleys. Again awesome instructable Thank you for sharing. </p>
<p>Awesome build man! Looks good. How did you connect the two boxes to the board? Screws? I honestly think that that is the hardest part of this build, lol! Anyways, glad to help. I'm going to publish another instructable soon with how to incorporate bluetooth, and quick charging, so that might give you some ideas on how to improve.</p>
<p>What does that push button thing do on the side in one of your pictures? </p>
<p>Nice! Thank you so much for sharing :) This is very helpful and appreciated!</p><p>I am planning to build my own and would really like to hear what you think of my concerns. It would be great if you had the time to help me out :)</p><p>So, I am wondering:</p><p>-did you have any problems with the NiMh? (overheating...breaking?)</p><p>-which range did you obtain?</p><p>-at which speed?</p><p>-could you go uphill easily ?</p><p>-how was the breaking / going steeply downhill?</p><p>Every answer would be helpful toxuin, thanks for your time! :)</p>
<p>could I just epoxy the motor mount to the truck?</p><p>not really sure where I can get access to welding</p>
<p>Hey, did you end up gluing it?<br><br><br>I think epoxy alone won&acute;t do. My guess is it would be too weak to hold the engine. </p>
<p>are the motor mount measurements in mm?</p>
Another question. What are the measurements on the board for this instructable? I like the length on it and im thinking it will work for me since i plant my feet reaaly wide.<br>
So far im liking the ideas on this board. But i really like drop down longboards. This setup seems built more for a simple flat board. So im curious if there is a way i can modify this build for a drop down board.
<p>im also wondering if anyone successfully got the brake programmed to work properly to make an effective break for going down hills</p>
<p>hi, i used this instructable to help with the motor mount for my board, ill post pictures when its done. I am wondering if anyone knows how to program the esc or the motor so that the motor doesnt beep when its turned on.</p>
<p>Did my own . I used a cable holder like in the picture to hold my motor plate ;)<br>I'm running 2x6S in parallel. 16km range and 50km/h top speed. Though I never tried</p>
<p>hey man, could you take a closer and more detailed photo of how you attached the motor plate to the truck. I wanna do a no weld mount and its been driving me bananas. I appreciate it. Thanks.</p>
there you go.<br>Not the most elegant solution but it works well!
<p>Dude thank you. I replied to another post by mistake. I really appreciate it.</p>
Hey man, thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately in those photos i cant see the way its being mounted to the truck. Could you snap something from the bottom so i can have a look ?
What would happen if the gear on the wheel was slightly off center and where did you take it to get the motor mount welded?
<p>where can you get pulleys from that will deliver to england</p>
<p>and pulleys</p>
<p>im in England and was wondering where i could get a motor and esc in england for quite cheap is i don't have a lot of money </p>
<p>I got this little problem.</p><p>Sensored brushless motor doesn't have wiring plug colours, they all black.</p><p>How can I identify the wires red yellow and blue for ESC to connect ?</p>
You have probably already solved this but on brushless motors the wires doesnt matter. Just connect the wires any way you want. If the motor spins the wrong way, switch any 2 of the wires between esc and motor.
<p>does it matter what ESC you use, because I found some that are a lot cheaper, but I was wondering if it would still work?</p>
Also it has to match the motor. Brushless ESC for brushless motors and brushed for brushed.
<p>No not really, as long it can handle 120A or higher. Also i do NOT recommend a boat or an airplane ESC. Those do NOT have breaks and just slow down, which on the other hand a car/truck ESC does slow you down much faster.</p>
<p>Can someone please tell me why a 200-300kv motor is so important?? It is ridiculously difficult to find! Since it's so hard to find, I'm assuming higher KV rating motors, around the 1000kv range, probably work for this application since they are so much more common?</p>
Higher kv motors have higher top speed but lower torque. High kv are good for light rc cars or small prop aircraft but low kv are good for heavy stuff like bigger props, or moving a human. 2x1000kv with enough volts MIGHT work if you are light and only run on flat ground.
<p>Is this a suitable esc?</p><p>http://www.amazon.com/HobbyWing-30105151001-Quicrun-WP-8BL150-Waterproof-Controls/dp/B00LHMO56A</p>
Hey, what would the dimensions be for a 63mm motor mount?
<p>With this set up, will you still be able to ride by pushing</p>
<p>did you run into problems of a spark occurring when you plugged the esc and the batteries together? i understand that the spark won't ruin any circuity but it'll wear out the connectors, which I don't want to constantly have to replace. or are the bullet connectors already anti-spark somehow?</p>
<p>Hello! This is a great instructable, and I've been following it pretty closely, i just had a few questions regarding the ESC I've chosen since the one you suggested is unfortunately out of stock. I got a cheaper ESC from China, so what features are important to keep in mind when seeing if it's suitable or not? I notice that the one i bought has a cont current of 60 A and a burst current of 380 A, and then it also says that it's input is 2-3 cells of LiPo. Is this highly problematic since the two batteries in series equate to 6 cells? Thanks!</p>
<p>would this esc work: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/120A-ESC-Sensored-Brushless-Speed-Controller-For-1-8-1-10-Car-Truck-Crawler-WA-/262272520600?hash=item3d10a91198:g:WlcAAOSwa-dWsJsO</p>
<p>No, its a 2-3s esc. You at least want a 6s esc :)</p>
<p>Hello nice work, but I do not find the support motor, you find do not put in your turoriel. Can you tell me how to find or in wholesales?</p>
Hey is it 6 millimeters or 6 meters<br>

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Bio: I'm a highschooler who is interested in technology, science, and engineering. In my spare time I work on projects that allow me to learn ... More »
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