Electric Umbrella





Introduction: Electric Umbrella

About: http://users.aei.ca/twilight/console/

Turn an ordinary umbrella into something whimsical and magical. The Electric Umbrella will glow with many pinpoints of light. Carry the sun and the stars with you at night! Perfect for night-time strolls through the countryside or just being silly. And it's dimmer adjustable so you can set how bright you want to be - anywhere from dim ambient light for strolling in the dark to carrying your own portable supernova beacon of light!

Step 1: What You Need

The things that you need may be found through some combination of local stores, electronics parts shops, online and scrounging parts from old electronic junk you may have lying around.

Parts & Equipment:

-One umbrella, preferably light colored (I picked yellow), with a straight handle and with a hollow shaft so that you may pass wires through it. It is very important that the umbrella be simple - none of that spring loaded-automatic stuff! You want the shaft to be hollow.

-64 SMD (surface mount) LEDs in your color of choice. The actual size does not matter except that smaller will look more invisible (preferable) but will be more difficult to work with. I used size 805 (2mm wide) 3.5V white LEDs. White, blue, UV & some greens require 3.5 Volts and won't require additional resistors on each LED, but 1.8V LEDs (red, yellow, green) do (more trouble!)

-A spool of thin single strand, lacquered copper wire. Thin enough to be almost invisible against the umbrella, but thick enough to withstand the occasional stresses/snags. This is what the SMD LEDs will be soldered onto.

-3AA battery holder, preferably compact and arranged in an L shape, as the batteries will have to lie over the umbrella's shaft. 3AAA batteries would work well too, and are more compact, but won't last as long.

-Normal plastic coated multi-strand copper wire, preferably the kind that will not break easily after repeated flexing.

-One 750 Ohm variable resistor with built-in on/off switch for dimming and turning the umbrella on & off.

-Needle and thread (of the same color as the umbrella)

-Solder and Soldering iron/gun

-Wire cutters, wire strippers, scissors, x-acto knife

-Drill and drill bits

-Large board and small nails, to be used for laying out the wires and soldering the SMD LEDs onto the wires.

-Masking tape and double sided tape/carpet tape

-Clear epoxy or Glue, super-glue

Step 2: Solder the LEDs Onto the Wires

Be prepared for some long and tedious steps. Carefully soldering 64 individual LEDs, each not much larger than a grain of sand onto thin and uncooperative wires takes patience.

Before starting, measure out your umbrella and plan where each of the LEDs will go. This umbrella will have 16 spokes radiating out from the center, each spoke having 4 LEDs. I chose to have 4 different sets of LED spacing (8 of each set) to make a pseudo random looking pattern. I set the LED spacing set so they're generally closer together towards the outside of the umbrella in an effort to make the LED distribution reasonably even throughout the surface of the umbrella.

Get a large board (wider than the radius of your umbrella) and hammer a bunch of nails along the sides so that you can string up/stretch out your single-strand copper wires (2 wires to each nail). Place masking tape and/or mark off the points at which you will be soldering the LEDs. Leave some extra lengths of wire at each end in case you need some extra length once it comes time to actually install them onto your umbrella.

Place some masking tape under the wires to prevent burning the board (in case you ever want to use it for some other purpose) and more masking tape to hold the wires down in place as you solder. My wire was lacquer coated, so I had to first burn it off at the points where the LEDs will be added with my soldering gun and hot solder. (You may try scraping it off instead, or using a wire stripper to strip it off.) Once the wires are 'tinned' with solder, try to wedge an LED between the two. Be careful to place all LEDs in the same polarity!!

Time to solder your first LED. I tried to apply some masking tape onto the wires so that they pinch the LED in place - makes it easier to solder the LEDs in if they're not always moving around. With a very quick, light touch, touch both sides of the LED with the hot soldering tip and the solder coating the wires and tip will flow into the LED contacts. If you're not sure you got it, hook up 3V (two AA batteries) to the wires hanging off the board and see if the LED lights up! Once you get the hang of it, move on and do the rest of the LEDs. I soldered mine in two sets - half of the wire/LEDs on the board at one time (16 'spokes') and the other half after finishing the first.

After all the LEDs were soldered in, I applied power to the board/wires to see all the LEDs light up in their glory :) This is also a good time to determine how many volts you want your umbrella to run on, and what value variable resistor you want to use for dimming. I decided on 3 AA batteries (4.5 Volts (or 3.6 volts if using rechargeable batteries)) and a 750 Ohm variable resistor.

Step 3: Assemble the Central Hub for the Wires

All the LED spokes connect to a center hub near the tip/center of the umbrella. The tricky part is assembling this outside of the umbrella first and then carefully fitting it into the umbrella between the spokes and the cloth. I assembled it separately because it's hard to each the inside of an open umbrella. I also didn't want to risk burning holes into the cloth when soldering.

Make two rings of wire. I used masking tape to hold it's shape while putting it together. The masking tape also served to mark the spacing where each LED string will be attached. The exact size of the rings doesn't matter except that you want it to be fairly close to the center of the umbrella. Do not actually solder the wires into full circle just yet as you will need these to be detached when you fit it into the umbrella later on - just hold the circle together with more masking tape for now and leave lengths of wire long enough at one end to reach the batteries once it's inside the umbrella.

I used the same single strand copper wire as I used for the LED strings/spokes. *THIS WAS A MISTAKE!* Every time you open and close the umbrella, the wires in this hub will flex and this kind of wire will eventually break from the stresses.. bad bad bad. Later on I soldered additional loops of stranded wire onto the hub. These wires are much better at holding up to stresses of repeated flexing. (see photos 7 & 8.)
[edit: The next umbrella I made used *only* loops of wire for the hub - see photos 9 & 10.]

Cut the lengths of wire off the big board (4 LEDs per length). Measure the ends/length/LED placement and start soldering the strings of wire onto the hub. Make sure you get the wire/power polarity right! You can add power to the wires to see if you're getting it right. After all 16 strings are attached, you will have an interesting glowy mess... might be used to make an interesting headpiece or hat, but we're trying to stay focused on making an electric umbrella :P

Step 4: Get the Wires and Hub Into the Umbrella

Loosely place the hub and the mess of wires near the center of the umbrella, then carefully start sliding the hub under the umbrella's spines so it runs around the center shaft and rests between the cloth and the spines. Carefully slide the strings of LEDs under the spines until you have two strings in each 1/8th section of the umbrella.

Once everything is roughly in place it's time to attach the open ends of the hub together. Cut, strip and twist the wire ends together. Once tied together, place some newspaper between the hub wires and the umbrella's cloth so that you won't burn the cloth. Solder the wires together. Once that is done, add tape to that new section on the hub so it's shape and spacing matches the rest of the hub. Now you should have two wires coming off the hub. These wires will go to the battery clip / power switch / dimmer.

Cut little bits of double sided carpet tape and start placing them under the hub to keep it in place. Set it down, centered around the spokes with two strings of LEDs between each spine. Once in place, sew the hub to the spokes and cloth of the umbrella.

Step 5: Attach the LED Strings to the Cloth

Things are finally starting to take shape. Now attach the LED strings to the cloth. Carefully stretch out the wires outwards towards the edges of the umbrella. I used masking tape to lie them flat on the cloth. Once the strings of wire are positioned, you may use a bit of super glue under each LED to set them on the cloth - make sure the wires are not twisted and that all the LEDs are facing up... or rather, facing the person holding the umbrella.

Once they're all set in place, remove the masking tape and cut off the excess wire at the ends/edges. Try adding power to see what the umbrella will look like. It's not finished yet, but this is the point where it finally looks like it is and you can see the lighting effect for the first time.

The super glue is not good enough to hold the LEDs in place forever. It's just temporary to keep everything in place while you sew all the wires and LEDs into place. I used small stitches - one on each LED and one on the wire halfway between each LED.

Step 6: Add the ON/OFF/dimmer Control

In order to add the on/off & dimmer control in the umbrella's handle, you need to drill some holes and run wires down the umbrella's shaft.

Drill one small hole in the shaft at the top of the umbrella - just large enough to let the fine copper wires through, but don't insert wires yet. Next, drill out the umbrella's handle - carefully drill a hole all the way through the handle and into the metal shaft of the umbrella. Be careful to use a drill bit just slightly smaller than the diameter inside the shaft and drill carefully right down the center of the handle until the bit pushes through. You want the hole to be large enough to let the drill shavings that went up the shaft to fall back out again. Try to get them all out.

Next you need to drill a larger hole in the handle, just deep enough for the dimmer switch to rest inside. I used a 3/4 inch bit for this, and then drilled out one side some more for the irregular shape of the dimmer switch. Again, try to get all the shavings out of the umbrella itself.

Now, it's time to run two single strand copper wires down from the top of the umbrella and out the bottom of the handle. This part is really tricky as the wires could get bunched up inside. Pull them out again if they get stuck and try again. If the wires get too bent up, throw them away and try again with new wires.

Once you get them through, solder one of the wires at the top to your battery clip, and the other to one of the wires leading to the hub/LEDs. The other wire from the hub goes directly to the 2nd wire on the battery clip. At the bottom (the handle end) solder the wires to the switch and dimmer such that you can disconnect power altogether by turning/clicking the variable resistor all the way counterclockwise, and so that the LEDs grow brighter the more you turn it clockwise.

Once you've tested that it all works, glue the variable resistor in place with epoxy or other glue. If possible, find a nice decorative knob to put onto the variable resistor.

Step 7: Finishing Up

Lastly, attach the battery clip to the shaft. I left mine tired, but free to move up and down a bit - this way it can move down when you close the umbrella (further from the tip is better as it closes up pretty tight and you don't want to adding extra stresses onto the delicate wires on the LEDs), and moves up when you open it (the folding mechanism pushes the battery clip closer to the hub)

And finally you can take it out for a spin!

It looks amazing, but is a bit delicate. Don't take it out in the wind - I don't know if it would survive the umbrella reversing itself in the wind! Also be careful opening, closing and transporting the umbrella so as not to put too much mechanical stresses on the fine wires.



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    Where did you get the lights from? Thanks.

    Hi, I know this is a pretty old instructable but how would i know if an umbrella has a hollow handle or not?

    Hi Sockmaster!

    Wow! This is an absolute marvel!

    I was worried I may have made a promise I couldn't keep to my better half, until I saw this excellent effort of yours!

    But I do have a couple of questions, if don't mind answering, that would be grand!

    1) I don't understand how the voltage works out, I though that each LED had to have it's voltage worked out. I.E. a 1.8v LED would need 1.8v, 2 would need 3.6v, 64 would need 115.2v! Obviously, it would be impractical to have 77 batteries, but I don't get how 3 batteries has powered this array!

    2) With regards the variable resistor (or volume control potentiometer, if you listen to matey below!), 750ohm seems to be like rocking horse poo! However 500ohm and 1kohm are readily available, which would be the better option?

    Sorry to be a bore, but I would appreciate your time!


    2 replies

    I would probably avoid 1.8V LEDs (usually the red, orange, yellow, yellowish-green ones) because they have a low internal resistance and would normally require a resistor on each LED (or have them wired in series). It makes things more complicated. If you wired them in sets of 4 in-series, then your battery would have to be ~7.2V (5 or 6 AAs or a 9V battery).

    The 3.6V LEDs (usually green, blue, UV or white) have a higher internal resistance and are more tolerant of simply all being wired together in parallel. A 3.6V or 4.5V battery will happily light up bunch of them wired in parallel.

    a 1KOhm variable resistor would be better. 500 Ohm would work too, but the 'darkest' setting would be brighter.

    what is the Switch you use to turn it on/off and to dimm it

    do green leds work i only found some with 3.5v and are 2mm big

    Wow, pick up girls in the rain will be easier.. Thank you sockmaster, for this brilliant idea.

    Can you explain the the arrangement of the wires in the central hub and how to attach the led spokes to the hub in more detail please? I am confused, sorry. Also, would you recommend twining the led spokes around the spines of the umbrella and can this be done on a foldable umbrella. Thank you! I know this comment is kind of late and I really hope you reply.

    1 reply

    It's two parallel wires, one positive and one negative, with breaks to allow connection to the strings, to which the LEDs are also connected in parallel.

    Yes, you can twine the wires around the ribs instead of glue it to the fabric.

    Folding umbrellas have springs in the shaft, which means you can't use them for wires. Also, you'd be putting too much stress on the wire with all the folding and shorten the life of your project.

    Wow! That is a great project.

    very very creative! Awsome project

    Awesome project!

    You just gave me an idea to use the sticky LED flex strips to make a super-bright umbrella! :))

    "It is very important that the umbrella be simple - none of that spring loaded-automatic stuff! You want the shaft to be hollow. "

    Is that umbrella okay? It's an auto-open one, but I can't find any umbrellas that don't have the auto-open nowadays.

    Where can I buy the Safe Mount LED lights?

    your dimmer / variable voltage resistor is actually a volume control potentiometer.
    just so people have an easier time locating a part. very cool build i want to make one myself

    Also, I saw that some places offered UV LEDs. Can this be done?

    Anyway you can do this with LED strips? Have you or anyone else found a way to do the multi colored one?

    how to close the umbrella? . what if rain< will i get shock because it will get wet