Instructables
Fix your Xbox 360's RRoD by yourself, without towels or soldering irons! If you no longer have a warranty on your Xbox 360, and it has gotten the dreaded Red Ring, there is hope. As most of you know, the RRoD is a sign displayed by the 360's "Ring of Light" when there is a general hardware failure. While this can be caused by any part(or lack thereof) on the 360, the general cause is from excessive heat, which stresses the solder joints on the CPU and GPU. Over time, these joints can become seperated, which causes the Red Ring to visit your console, usually when you have a new game to play and you've taken the day off...

What this fix involves is nothing but mere screws and washers. Seriously, no overheating your console, adding new fans(although you can add them if you like), or towels. Ever since I installed it I haven't had the console freeze up once.
 
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Step 1: Before we begin...

Before you even think to unplug your 360, let's work in a bit of intelligent forethought.

For starters, why would you need to repair the console yourself? If you have a working warranty, I highly suggest you send the console to Microsoft for repairs,as a repair will void your warranty. While Microsoft dropped the ball on product quality in efforts to get the 360 out before the other consoles, they picked up the proverbial dirt-covered ball by extending all warranties to 3 years.

If you plan on actually reviving the 360, don't use the towel trick. What it does is overheat the inside of the console by blocking fan intakes, temporarily doing something to make the 360 run for a brief period of hours to days. While it may be the quick and easy approach, it also overheats every other component in the 360, which is never good. It can cause chips to fail, capacitors to dry out, release the magic smoke, and possibly spark a fire. So unless you hate your Xbox something fierce, don't do this.

And of course, if you're on your 4th Red Ringed Xbox 360, and are considering buying a PS3...

FIX IT, REGARDLESS OF WARRANTY!

I would hate to see someone give up the pinnacle of gaming due to a simple flaw, over a Blu-Ray player with gaming functionality.

So, if your warranty is void, or you're about to join the dark side of gaming, read on!
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No problem with the new console ;)

TazzyUK7 months ago

Would the parts requirements be any different for a UK Xbox 360, as in what to ask/look for. Maybe a different term used over here than in the states. Anyone bought all the necessary parts from a UK supplier (Maybe B&Q, Maplins for example)?

jmawson7 months ago
Done the fixing of Xbox but now fans not working what has happened can it still b fixed and how
crossfire3518 months ago

Hats off Mr. Turner. Great instructable! I did this to the letter except instead of steel washers between the board and case I used Delrin (plastic) spacers that I made. They are .185 inches tall. Also used 2 nylon washers on every screw between the board and heatsinks. I have not played it yet but did leave it powered on for 10.5 hours straight with no issue. Will comment back if anything changes when playing. This console was given to me by a fed up friend that payed somebody $40 to repair it. That "repair" guy removed the x-braces but only bolted through the board, not the case. I personally don't advise this method because you are just weakening the whole thing by taking out the x-braces, in my opinion, making it worse.

Pretty awesome that this instructable is still getting the love after 5+ years. Probably that's because it works! It took some tinkering, but in the end the RROD was cured on our Xbox 360.



One thing to watch out for is that some models have different heatsinks. Mine didn't look at all like the ones in the pictures. Thus, 20mm machine screws turned out to be way too long for the CPU heatsink. I made do with 16mm screws, but even those ran into the lowest set of fins. 12mm would have been best, but between Home Depot and Lowe's, I could only come up with 4 of those, just enough for the GPU.



I think I scrounged about 4 different types of washers (nylon and metal) plus a set of neoprene grommets to get everything at the proper heights. Beware, standard #10 metal washers are too wide, they can only be used at the outer corners. Nylon washers seem best; they are nice and compact.



When it came to the testing phase, we had no joy at first. Some of the comments here indicated that it might be good to play with the tension on the screws, and to overheat the GPU and CPU purposely, to get the new Arctic Silver thermal paste under the heatsinks all nice and oozy. So I disconnected the cooling fans, screwed down the heatsinks a bit tighter (especially the one over the CPU, since it hadn't felt as warm as the GPU's), and ran the Xbox 5-10 minutes, until a slightly smoky smell could be detected in the air. And lo: the blinking lights on the front had changed! I was seeing the two lights for overheating instead of the RROD. So I unplugged everything, let it cool down for 20 min. or so, hooked up the fans again, and kapow! It booted!



It was nearly midnight when the magic happened, so I wouldn't let my sons play with it right away. But I did get some real big hugs before they went to bed :-) No problems in the days since.
puduhead1 year ago
I signed up to say thank you for this tutorial. It worked! :)

Also thanks to the guy that gave those conversions on the 3/16 bolts to what Home Depot has them as: 10-32.

My only variation was in putting 1 neoprene washer on top of the 3 metal ones for each bolt on the bottom. Made 4 on the bottom the right size as they have a little play but snugged down evenly.

Lastly, I found that the #10 washers' (as sold at Home Depot ) outter diameter was too large as they wouldn't stack evenly on the two bolts that are right next to each other. I used #8 washers instead. The inner diameter was just big enough to put the bolts through but small enough on the outter than they did not overlap on those close bolts.

Thanks again.
Joell5601 year ago
Thanks! Was able to play for 8 hours straight with out locking up!
A huge thanks to Jake for these instructions! Mine didn't work at first either. Kept getting 3 RROD when I turned it back on. But I put the rest of the screws back in and found I had over tightened the new screws for the heatsinks. I did the other screws as tight as I could without damaging them and loosened off the new heatsinks screws. Tried it again and it worked! So in my case it was about getting the perfect tension on all the screws for it to work. It took a few tries, the first time i released the new heat sink screws a little way after putting other screws back it still didnt work. i took a bit more off and it then it sprung to life!!
Ok so we did this tutorial to the letter and the red lights went away. But now, when we start it up none of the green lights flash on in the usual way they are supposed to during startup. No red lights, no green lights. We have not tested it on a tv yet so we dont know if any of the graphics are going through, but we just think this is unusual because normally the green lights always show up. Any suggestions? BTW we started out with the E 74 error code and one red ring in the lower right corner.
One ring and an E74 code isn't the RROD, it's only the first ring. What it means is that your cables aren't connected properly, and that's all it means.
A simple guide to red rings is:
  1 quadrant = cable connection error
  2 quadrants = overheating of system
  3 quadrants = internal system error aka RROD

All you need to do is properly connect your cables, however, doing this tutorial wasn't necessary and if you didn't do it right you may have shot your system :(, if you did do it correctly, then your fairly safe in the future from the true RROD.
and four quadrants for not having the AV cables in the back lol
4 red lights is more commonly a cable problem, more specifically an av cable problem.
E74: AV cable error... There is a problem with the AV cable, try using a different AV cable. If the cable is known to be working then there is a 90% chance it's a scaler chip problem (the "ANA" or "HANA" chip connected directly to the AV cable) in rare cases it is the GPU. http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/Xbox-360-error-codes.htm
actually... the power plug being loose or only being plugged in half way will display a 3 light... just thought I'd clarify that...
E74 code meant your graphics card is shot. or maybe thats E 73 idk but if you were playing cod 5 or cod 6 or any other newer games and you saw random purple lines its the graphhics card.
its E74
read above comment. but your partly right...
try plugging in the av cable then trun it on
1 red ring isnt the ring of death
did you google it? i think i found a site with fixes for it but idk what the link is anymore.

and you should try hooking it up to a tv, because if you dont then ALL of the red rings will blibk and mean you need to hook it up to a tv...try those ideas then come back. idk
joegravelle4 years ago
still have rrod even after doing the entire instructable. I've spent about an hour adjusting the heat sink pressure and nothing works.
rrod is general failure, not always only one cause. it could be something else, thought that was said on the first page, coulda been a different 'ible though
Just tried this excellent guide (coupled with Llama's guide) and my $25 rrod 360 is working like a champ. The original x-clamps were nowhere near holding the heatsinks on. Probably 1/16" play between the heatsinks and the chips... the result was ZERO cooling for the CPU/GPU. The manufacturer apparently made up for slop in the design by using a ton of thermal paste, but even that couldn't provide the needed heat transfer to the heatsink in the end.

I'm happy that I can give this better-than-original xbox 360 to my nephew!
awesome deal, i got an rrod for $20
my xbox did get caught on fire (by an idiot who lit a candle and went to sleep) so i replaced the parts i neede to (disc drive) and swapped the pcb from mine to the new one to avoid a flash being needed, turned it on and guess what happened after about two mins of running? says it was overheating, then it red ringed three lights:( hopefully your 'ible will help so i dont need a new one(fire voids the warranty i think lol, don't have to worry about messing it up really, got a working one for $40 but would be nice to fix my old one.(in case of another incident)
Very nice!
ifixitgud1 year ago
ok this does work ive done it 50 times, buuuuttttt ive found it best to not use a flathead screwdriver to get the xclamps off, its best to get a 90 degree small pick from n e hardware store, insert the hook in the clamp u want to release press down on the middle of the clamp and pull the hook away and up from the post, also if u dont have a 1/4 socket u can use needle nose pliers to loosen the posts, ALSO another thing is that u should get 5x10 mm screws, dont drill thru the metal case and screw it to the board not thru the case its actually not the clamps that fail, its that people play xbox all day and the thermal paste drys up and the 360 is equipped with auto shutoff once the chip reaches a certain temp, NYLON WASHERS ALL THE WAY the reason is beasuse over time the nylon will flex and adjust with hot/cold/hot/cold situations and metal will not, fix it yerself save loot! hit me up!!!!
salazam1 year ago
About to try this, quick question though. Why do you need longer screws for the CPU heatsink? Both the GPU and CPU heatsink mounting holes are at the same level. Also why 44 washers? Even if you use 4 for each screw, that's 32... Thanks in advance for your reply.
failsure1 year ago
Works perfectly for me. I took great care to keep my 360 well ventilated, but it did finally start to RRoD intermittently last week after 5+ years of use. For less than $20 (which included buying quality torx drivers) it is back in action. This is a fix that shouldn't be needed, but at least it works! Thanks.
r we crten dis wrks
CeeJaySix1 year ago
Just signed up so I could say thanks for this Instructable - fantastic, easy to follow, and most importantly works! I guess it probably says the same thing as all the 'Pay $30 and get a fix for your RRoD' websites, for free. I've never done anything on the internals of a computer (prefer engines!) but this was a doddle. Just take your time and take care. As I had no idea what to expect it took me a couple of hours, reckon now I know how all the clips work on the casing, what all the bits are and what I'm doing inside it would take no more than 30-45 mins.

A couple of points:
1. the smaller Torx screws are T8, not T7 - having nipped out to buy a T7 bit I had to go back for a T8!
2. for those in the UK reading this - Maplins do a silver thermal paste and remover kit for £10 by Akasa; the cleaner worked a treat used with cotton buds on the motherboard connections and with kitchen roll on the heat sinks. They also have Torx bits.
3. There's no need for two different lengths of screws - 15mm length is plenty, I think you'd be fine with 12mm screws. The M5 washers in B&Q are a good fit on the ground points on the board - 3 under the motherboard and two on top worked for me, no nylon washers required.
4. It might not work first time but it does work! I thought I must have a different problem causing the RRoD after this didn't work first time, but before spending more money thought I'd have a fiddle with different numbers of washers and tensions. By loosening off the screws slightly and as suggested in the main text pressing on different corners of each heat sink whilst powering up, I found which side needed to be a little tighter and which a little looser, tightened up screws accordingly and got it working just fine. So if it doesn't work at first, experiment a little.

Once again, thanks, great post.
CarterMagna2 years ago
In fact, after thinking about goombaslayer's comment about using nuts to hold the screws in place rather than electrical tape, what about a combination of pan head screw, plain washer, spring washer and half nut?

That way, the screw and washer combination would be held in place securely and when the heatsinks are screwed into place, they have an adjustable tension that is far cheaper and effective than the original X-Clamps were.

Maybe something like this: 

X-clamp replacements.jpg
I'm talking nonsense.

If one were to fix the screws in place using my method they would then be, um, fixed. The half nut/spring washer combo may well provide the perfect standoff height but then you wouldn't be able to screw into the heat sinks as the screws have been rendered immovable.

However, this doesn't stop us from drilling though the heat sink, using the same clearance drill that was used to enlarge the holes in the motherboard case, use longer screws and another M5 nut and spring washer at the other end.

The X-Clamps are then gone, the "stand-off" height is perfect and the tension between heatsink and CPU/GPU can be controlled with easier access.

I don't know if this would pose problems when reintroducing the motherboard to the case, I haven't tried it yet, but if it doesn't then I certainly think it might have some merit.
i cut out the entire rectangle with x molds out of the case compleetly as to add airflow underboard & i am connecting a wireto gnd the 8 heads to the case preventativly, in assumption, if the xbox in in a constant virdical while running, presumably there would be no mobowarp right?
HTSauce2 years ago
ok, im useing 4 hex screws (matching thread to heatsink), with 4 rubber washerstopside & 2 metal one flush & one locking, & removed all previous applications of thermal paste, with a little bit of 70% rubbing alchoal, spairingly, & a stick cut to a fine point chizle tip, soft wood, its shinin like a mirrior finish with a near blueing to it, (oxidisation i suppose), any way i modded a fan in at a 45 degree angle & an outtake fan also at a 45degree angle from the top of the heatsink, running mush louder & quieter than the stock fans, & molded a grouve in the shoude to accomidate the outtake fan, i have thermal paste but have reached my buget as far as supplysfor the gpu, i was able to find 2 matching pairs of the same thread , but diffrent bit, , but all diffrent legnths, i cut luvers nessare for accomidation,

my question is, inder the gpu heatsink, is it nessary to appaly washers to this application, or (with said application of thermal paste) only appalying even cross tension with bottom mounted screws? or are "spacers" needed?

second, i cut the bottom of the enclouser case entitleing the airea of the x molds, intending on grounding out each screw head to the case, but figured that would aid in air flow temp, would i have bottential probibility of mobo fluxuation or warping? beeing 2-3 inches from support to support? im also doing a back side case mod where ill be cutting out a stencil of r2d2, painting my case black, eching where needs be wight, & cutting out the blue aireas & installing a wight film papper with a few blue leds, on the opposing side ive cut a window over the cd tray, cut the disk drive 2/3, revaling most of the spinning disk, , the intake out take fans are in a v formation at 45 degree angles from the top of the heat sink, having then diagonally through the case, im adding a window over the cpu heatsink top with plexi & a blue led pointing upward, , i also made hidden blocks that deflect direct light from hitting cd lazer airrea, i plan on j tag after i fix rrod & makeing a base stand out of an old external usb hdd, & painting it to match, i wanted my own dark side r2d2 edition xbox because i cant afford a new one that looks cheezy to boot, i got this broken one free, :)

thanks for the help & sorry for the lecture
csage12 years ago
Hello I found your site on Google and I see that it has some useful tips on fixing Xbox 360. Ahm, I would just like to add more of the information about fixing Xbox 360.

#1 tip to avoid Xbox red ring of death is to prevent the causes of Xbox overheating.
#2 never try to re-solder Xbox your own unless you are knowledgeable at it or you have a repair guide with you.

I encountered the red ring of death on my Xbox 360 before and I resolved it through the useful resources on your site and in this site: http://www.e74online.com/ just want to share it to also contribute helpful information to other Xbox lovers like me.
ebizjh2 years ago
Great post on how to fix the red ring.
If you are interested in further instructions
on how to go about fixing your xbox check this out:
http://www.wheretofixaxbox360.com
jmilligan22 years ago
I went through this process and got it running for about 5 months and the issue started to come back. I heard that it will come back at some point from some folks who have done the fix. I redid the build again and got it running, but only lasted a few days. Hesitant to spend the time again with another rebuild...anyone have similar experience? Any fixed or tips? Worked perfect for a while, but keeps coming back. It's well ventilated. Has been used for COD and some movies. Have another year on Live so trying to keep it going. Might be time to finally switch to a PS3. Thanks for any help or advice.
solorbob2 years ago
Thanks for the instructable. My buddy is giving me his old 360 with the red ring of death problem. I plan on giving this a go over the weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
i have it put back together, and testing it out. So far, so good. Thanks for this instructable. With about $20 in parts, I have another xbox in the house.
jquest6 years ago
i don't know if it was only me but the #10 washers were too big that they would over lap each other when i tried the washers on the inside screws. when i say inside screws i mean the the 4 screws that are closest to each other. what i had to do was get #8 washers and drill through them slightly to get them to fit the 5mm screws. the #8 washers is just slightly smaller than 5mm maybe about 0.5 mm.
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