I've been meaning to write this Instructable for almost a year after completing my Master Sword back in May 2009, but things have always seemed to get in the way until now.
I've always been a great fan of all of the Zelda games and I knew it was only time before I attempted to make a replica from one of the games.
So in this tutorial I will be showing you the steps I took to produce my Master Sword. I've gone for the sword from Twilight Princess as it's the most detailed Master Sword to date and it looks the best.
Update 27th May 2011
I've begun work on the Hylian Shield. You can follow my progress on my website http://www.jonsprojects.co.uk
I will be creating an Instructable when it's complete.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Files and rasps
Drill with various bits
Dremel (rotary tool) with various bits
Clamps (and lots of them)
Pine strip wood
Step 2: Design
After lots and lots of research I came up with the design I wanted to go for. Using lots of reference pics I drew a scale picture.
Using the attached picture in this step you can see the dimensions I used for each part.
After a few comments I've found the original photo of the plans, tidied them up a bit and uploaded them to some of my web space. Links below.
Step 3: Drawing and Cutting the Blade
So the first thing I did was two cut my long piece of strip pine in two and then laminate the two pieces together using wood glue and lots of clamps.
After it dried I proceeded to draw on the sword design with a pencil and ruler.
The piece of strip pine I used was nowhere near wide enough to account for the guard, but you'll see in later steps how I assembled it.
After I was happy with the drawing I cut out outline with a millimeter or two margin. It's always best to leave a margin and sand down to the line then go under the line and fill it in.
Step 4: Starting the Hilt - the Doughnut
I made the doughnut out of a piece of pine wood by:
-Drilling a whole in the middle
-Drawing and cutting a circle around the outside of the whole
-Using a coping saw to cut a taper on the top and bottom
-Sanding down the taper so it was uniform all the way around
-Adding wood filler to cover imperfections in cutting or sanding.
Step 5: Handle - Laminate Handle and Cut Wings
After that I drew out the top part of the hilt onto a piece of strip pine, cut it out and then used it to trace another copy.
Step 6: Guard - Carve and Glue Wings
Once I knew I had all the pieces I needed to fill it in I then cut the wing pieces into different parts (left and right wings and the middle diamond), and drew on the rest of the detail.
I also did some shaping to these pieces as it would be a lot harder to do it to them when they're attached.
Once I did the shaping of the inner parts I glued the wings on, and added the filling pieces on the inside.
I also shaped the handle using a rasp and file to round the corners, and gave and edge to the blade.
Step 7: Guard - Carve Wings
I then attached the diamonds, the doughnut and blade walls which are just above the wings. These walls are small pieces of basswood cut with a coping saw and glued on using wood glue.
Step 8: Guard - the Finer Details
I then had to come up with a way to do some of the swirly golden detailing on the hilt and the best idea I could come up with to achieve it was to glue string. Once dry then cover with wood filler and sand smooth. This actually works very well as long as you don't sand down to the string itself.
After the golden swirls were done on both sides I moved onto the Triforce symbol on the blade. This was simply cut from the same basswood I used for the blade walls. Then sanded on the front to round the edges. Once glued to the blade I then used more wood filler to fill any gaps, then sand down.
Step 9: The Pommel
Once I was happy with the shape I glued it to the end of the handle.
Step 10: More Golden Detailing and Blade Sharpening
I then went on to measure the blade bevel and used a combination of rasp and file to bevel the edge.
Something to note about the picture thought, I ended up going for a deeper bevel in the end. The depth pictured was far too short.
Step 11: Sanding, Priming and Painting
I then did three coats of primer with light sanding between the coats.
Once happy with the primer I then sprayed the metallic coats on the blade, followed by painting the enamel gold and purple on the hilt and detailing.
Step 12: Finally the Handle Grip
I found that the grip tape took the paint well, so I proceeded to use it and then painted on top of it.
After all the paint was thoroughly dry a few coats of lacquer was applied to help protect it.
And that's it!
Anyone got any questions just ask them and I'll do my best to answer them.