Really light up your next dinner party with a table that glows in the dark!

Photoluminescent (glow) powder mixed with clear casting resin fills the naturally formed voids in Pecky Cypress hardwood, creating a unique and stunning table. The glow powder charges up in sunlight and emits a cool blue glow when in partial or complete darkness.

Placing this table near a window will allow it to collect rays from the setting sun and then set off a pleasant glow from the transition from twilight to evening. Making your own is fun as you can customize it in any way you want. Instead of using hardwood you can use the technique of adding glow powder to resin to cast in all kinds of fun ways.

Let's make!

Step 1: Materials

The type of wood I used for this table is known as 'pecky cypress', which is regular cypress that has been naturally damaged with a fungal growth inside causing sections to rot - wiki on taxadium distichum (cypress).

These damaged pockets can be easily removed and create cavities in the wood which are perfect for filling with resin and glow powder. The pockets of damaged (rotten) cypress are soft and can easily be removed with compressed air and some light digging with a hand tool.

Aside from Pecky Cypress, we'll need:

<p>Buy it: <a href="http://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/mikeasaurus" target="_blank">www.etsy.com/ca/shop/mikeasaurus</a></p>
<p>My problem with my work, an din the bidness I ran for a few decades, is that I never, ever, ask what I, or my work's, worth. I know the scale/metric for calculating but I can never get myself to do it.</p><p>The table's amazing and I thought, if I were to sell one....$900. (Which I know is slave wages).</p><p>How do you do with it at that price point???</p><p>I especially dug your leg mounting system...</p><p>cheers</p>
<p>Very nice table, it looks great. That being said, I mean no offense in anyway from these questions, I'm just curious, but...</p><p>Any time in the past that I've applied epoxy resign to wood I'd go over it with a small torch/heat gun/hair dryer to get out as much of the trapped air as possible as to avoid the epoxy looking hazy/milky white. Was there a reason this wasn't done? I didn't know if it was an aspect of this type of epoxy additive (to glow in the dark) that would be ruined by doing this step? Was it this omitted step for the reason why the spots that were epoxied having a milky appearance when not glowing or is it the additive that allows it to glow? Beautiful table regardless I'm just checking because I just wanted to get an idea of what the appearance will be when not glowing. Thanks a lot and again, very nice table.</p>
<p>Step 10 explains the pour process here. Since there were so many small voids I did several small pours to ensure the coverage needed and stay within the pot life of the mixed resin. The milky appearance is a function of how the glow powder looks in daylight, a bone white color. Even with small air bubbles, the resin is clear but looks hazy from the glow powder. You could easily use a torch to remove any air bubbles, or give it a hot breath from your mouth at close range will also work.</p><p>I used a propane torch to remove bubbles in epoxy, you can see that in <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Lumberjack-table/" target="_blank" style="background-color: initial;">Step 10 and 11 of my Lumberjack Table.</a></p><p>I'd love to see your creation based on this when you're done. Good luck!</p>
<p>thanks for the reply and I'll definitely post some pics if i make it with this type of inlay...where I could use anothers opinion is with this- I don't want to take away from the very rustic looking wood I'm using but love the way the turquoise looks when glowing, I'm just nervous that the glow pigments when not glowing would look bad (like a bad epoxy job full of air bubbles). Any thoughts? Thanks a lot for your input!</p>
<p>The natural color of the glow powder is bone white, an alternative would be to accent the feature and use a glow powder that stays a color in natural light like this: <a href="http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3" style="background-color: initial;">http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3</a>. Either way, you will see something in the voids, just depends on what look you are going for. </p><p>I always recommend trying a sample mix and pour on scrap before committing. If you have more of the same type of wood it's best to try on that. This way you can dial in the amount of glow powder, the technique, and analyse the results. </p>
<p>Hi! I&rsquo;m an editor for Remodelaholic.com and am writing to request permission to use one of your table photos in an upcoming post. We would like to feature this in a round up and would include a backlink and clear credit to you.</p><p>Please let me know if this would work for you. Thanks for your consideration!</p><p>Kimberly</p>
<p>Any practical experience on how long glow powder lasts? And the referenced resin doesn't mention UV resistance. Are you really keeping this outdoors or just for photo op?</p>
<p>Glow powder should last a very long time, years.</p><p>Look for a resin that is UV stable and non-yellowing. The stuff I link to in Step 1 is both. </p><p>If you're planning on having a table outside it needs to be sealed with exterior polyurethane and an exterior grade resin.</p>
I was under the impression that UV stable resin and outdoor polyurethane both block UV light and therefore reduce our eliminate the effectiveness of glow in the dark paint. Could you shed some light (pun intended) on the apparent error in this rumor?
<p>I haven't noticed any reduction in efficacy with the UV coatings I've used. Since I can't test every variation, I suggest testing your glow powder/resin/poly combination on a small piece before committing to your final project. </p>
<p>ok. Thanks!</p>
<p>Doing something for my deck. Curious, how much powder should I mix with the resin? It's going to fill voids between pallet boards.</p>
<p>HI Mike i am just starting a couple of projects which are inspired by your work but during my tests on test pieces i found that if the reisin is not charged it just looks like glass. So my problem is that im aiming to get a color thats also visible during day time or normal light conditions. Any advice ?</p>
<p>What type of glow powder are you using? </p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Glow-Dark-Pigment-Powder/dp/B00H9103XW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Glow-Dark-Pigment-Powde...</a><br>I made my tests with this 1 .</p><p>Do you think that this is the problem ?<br></p>
<p>Not all glow powder has color under normal light. Here's one that glows blue, and looks blue under normal lighting: <a href="http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3" target="_blank">http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3</a></p>
<p>Thank you Mike i'm ordering this one and ill post the result in the end .</p>
I wondee if you you put the glow in the dark substance in AND stain the wood. I'm partial to a deep cherry oak stain or even a black stain which actually looks really nice. I'd be interested to know if there is a way to combine that with this
Meant if you could put both the glow-in-the-dark pattern and stain it
<p>I don't see why that wouldn't work. Please share your results!</p>
<p>Excellent idea , I will do it. How much glow powder I need for a table of 100 x 80 cm?</p>
<p>So, if you were to use a board with rot along the edges but wanted to maintain a straight boxed edge/rectangular what would you use as a barrier so you could pour the resin? Is there a material you could use to hold the epoxy in while it dries so that you could get the glow along the organic edge without getting epoxy everywhere?</p>
<p>Acrylic or melamine would be good choices, as they have a smooth surface that the resin has a hard time sticking to. If you look, I used clear acrylic strips to box my table in when I was pouring. </p>
<p>Epoxy, not resin. But I guess technically both could be used.</p>
<p>I absolutely love what you've done. I want one too, I'll be forwarding your instructable to my husband.</p>
<p>really like the idea and the finished results in some of the pictures shown are awesome. I haven't read through all the comments, but if it hasn't been mentioned before, a stencil and a bit of work with a router just opens up another world of possibilities. In my head, I have the mortal combat logo for some reason, I don't even like the game! Or am I missing something here?</p>
<p>Look in the comments, there's a router designed logo of a monkey :)</p>
<p>heyy how are u = </p>
<p>Wow, that looks amazing! Is that your table?</p><p>Is that all resin in the middle, and if so how many pours did it take?</p>
<p>hi mike </p><p>You taught us this job . Thank you</p><p>ı did 6 cm glow resin table</p><p>I Finished it's 6 days </p><p>All Items are not finish I'll send you a picture.</p>
<p>love it! looks like a google earth shot of water and beach/land... </p>
<p>That looks incredible! Thanks for sharing, you did a great job. </p>
<p>Hi Mike,</p><p>I really enjoyed reading your instructable and want to try something similar myself. There is just one problem, and immediately it's a big one. On this side of the big pond I can find all of the materials, except the right wood. It looks like this specific type of cypress doesn't grow in western Europe. </p><p>Do you have any advice on which type of wood I can use which has more or less the same characteristics? It seems like everybody who sells lumbar over here has wood which looks perfect and that's nice for building houses and everything but I just want those perfect imperfections :)</p><p>I really hope you can help me with this, thanks in advance!</p><p>Steven </p>
<p>Hey Steven!</p><p>I think Pecky Cypress only grows in the southern USA, so sourcing some can be difficult. Though the rotted voids are desirable for this application, there's no reason why you couldn't use splintered wood (reclaimed or barn wood), or even create your own voids artificially with a router or chisel. The results may look a little different to what I show, but people are more blown away with the glow than the wood.</p><p>I'd love to see your version when you make it, please keep us updated. Good luck!</p>
<p>I suggest you plan ahead and leave wood out in a field for a while. The wood rots differently according to what is affecting it. www.finehomebuilding.com explains it in the Aug/sep 2015 issue clearly.You want brown rot- sometimes called dry rot- (a misnomer as dry wood doesn't rot). This fungus consumes the lighter cellulose leaving the geometric appearing lignin to continue shrinking and checking. I think it would lend itself to a treatment like described, but wonder if it should be sealed first. I am purely an observer and wannabee craftsperson.</p>
<p>Mike have you ever used Ambrosia Maple? It looks just like your Pecky Cypress and and is the same as far as how it gets its fungi characteristics. </p>
<p>Thanks for the info, I'll have to look into that the next time I'm at the lumber yard!</p>
<p>What if you try and find one of those sleeper or railway beams<br>that is old it should have some in perfections i had one lying around and would<br>have been perfect if I did not throw it away. </p>
Reynolds advanced materials in Denver Colorado has all the resins and glow powders you will ever need. Google them.
<p>Impressive Mike, nice job.</p>
Where did you get the wood from?
<p>beautiful! very unique idea</p>
Where do you buy this type of wood?
<p>We have this wood at Architectural Salvage.. Cut in 1878</p>
Hi i made a prototype with a green glowpowder and i used a 100:50 :50 ratio raisin and powder the problem i had was that the powder went to the bottom of the raisin. Any tips on how to fix that<br>
<p>If you pour in one shot you'll notice the glow powder settles at the bottom of the voids and will have a neat pattern where it rests in the grains of the wood. Alternatively, if you pour a clear base layer and wait for it to cure and then pour a glow powder resin layer the glow powder will be closer to the surface and have a more uniform glow.</p><p>After you mill your table you'll likely have some scraps you can test each method out on and see what you like best.</p>
<p>personally I hate stuff that glows in the dark (I like my dark to be REALLY dark), but this is absolutely gorgeous. </p>
<p>Where can I find pecky cypress? Most stores don't sell it. A friend told me to just carve out of regular wood, but I am not sure it will give the table the same effect.</p>

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Bio: I'm Mike and I make crazy things at Instructables HQ in San Francisco. Follow me and try a few of my projects for yourself!
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