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Really light up your next dinner party with a table that glows in the dark!

Photoluminescent (glow) powder mixed with clear casting resin fills the naturally formed voids in Pecky Cypress hardwood, creating a unique and stunning table. The glow powder charges up in sunlight and emits a cool blue glow when in partial or complete darkness.

Placing this table near a window will allow it to collect rays from the setting sun and then set off a pleasant glow from the transition from twilight to evening. Making your own is fun as you can customize it in any way you want. Instead of using hardwood you can use the technique of adding glow powder to resin to cast in all kinds of fun ways.

Let's make!


Step 1: Materials

The type of wood I used for this table is known as 'pecky cypress', which is regular cypress that has been naturally damaged with a fungal growth inside causing sections to rot - wiki on taxadium distichum (cypress).

These damaged pockets can be easily removed and create cavities in the wood which are perfect for filling with resin and glow powder. The pockets of damaged (rotten) cypress are soft and can easily be removed with compressed air and some light digging with a hand tool.

Aside from Pecky Cypress, we'll need:

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<p>Buy it: <a href="http://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/mikeasaurus" target="_blank">www.etsy.com/ca/shop/mikeasaurus</a></p>
<p>My problem with my work, an din the bidness I ran for a few decades, is that I never, ever, ask what I, or my work's, worth. I know the scale/metric for calculating but I can never get myself to do it.</p><p>The table's amazing and I thought, if I were to sell one....$900. (Which I know is slave wages).</p><p>How do you do with it at that price point???</p><p>I especially dug your leg mounting system...</p><p>cheers</p>
<p>I admire your work with this table, looks great and the glow effect is realy awesome.</p><p>A while ago I acquired a walnut slab with beautiful natural cracks adn decided to fill it with epoxy resin. I got a little to excited doing that and the resin boiled, but in my opinion it looks pretty good. Of course it was sanded, water polished, and at the end covered with clear lacquer. Hope you like it.</p><p>Regards from Poland<br>Gabriel</p>
<p>Wow! Thanks for sharing, it looks great.</p><p>Epoxy resin can boil if it's poured too thick. Bes tto do 2-3 pours for larger voids to get a clear casting. however, I think it looks really nice the way it is here. Great work!</p>
<p>I'm happy that you like it. And yes I've learned to pour smaller amout of epoxy. Now, working on another table with about 44mmtthick slab I poured it 8 or 9 times so it should be perfectly clear when finnished. As soon as it's done there will be a nice gallery picturing the progress of creation.</p><p>Thanks again!</p><p>Regards</p><p>G</p>
<p>Hi Mike. Thank you so much for your instructions. I have been wanting to make a glow in the dark table since I came across your instructions some time ago. A friends wedding finally gave me the excuse I needed. As a complete amateur with limited woodworking experience I found the instructions easy to follow. A friend helped me by sourcing a large plank of sweet chestnut (no pecky cypress in the UK?!), saw it &amp; join 2 pieces for the table to be the gift so I could make a river for teh resin down the middle. I made 2 - one a prototype to make all my mistakes on first. I had only 2 problems was there was a bit of a delay in getting the resin, as was difficult to get large volume in the UK, so had to order from the US and my damming of the resin wasn't effective on the prototype due to unseen cracks going all the way through the wood which meant I resined the plank to the floor, but all sorted. I finished them with 2-3 coats of teak oil rather than varnish which will hopefully mellow over time. Didn't get a photo of the finished gift table glowing in the dark due to my poor photography skills, but some here of the tables, glowing table tops &amp; finished prototype table in semi daylight.</p>
<p>Both tables look amazing! Thanks for sharing your work.</p><p>Pecky Cypress is difficult to source, but any wood with voids will work (and can look just as good, as you have shown). Buying resin online is the best way I've found to reliably get the quantity you need, there's loads of types but <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y46G10/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004Y46G10&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelsau-20&linkId=TI2XDYBDSCXA5J3Y" target="_blank">this is what I used</a>.</p><p>Love the pictures, thanks again for sharing them. Enjoy the Pro Membership!</p>
I love the idea and had one question. thinking of making a patio table and was wondering what type of finish, outdoor varnish has a UV blocker in it so was wondering your suggestions.
<p>Mike, I love the concept. I would love to do this just for the color and not the glow effect. What powder could I use? I am thinking countertops in a kitchen.</p>
<p>A <a href="http://amzn.to/2bzzcl7" target="_blank">powder pigment</a> would be fine. Always cast a small test before committing to the final project. I'd love to see your results! A colorful countertop sounds so nice.</p>
<p>Will this type of epoxy work, and do I need to buy a full gallon of this. This is for 16 oz.</p><p><a href="https://www.michaels.com/easy-cast-clear-casting-epoxy/10408248.html" rel="nofollow">https://www.michaels.com/easy-cast-clear-casting-epoxy/10408248.html</a></p>
Im in the process of doing something similar, do you think it would still glow as well with a thin cout of clear resin poured across the top?
<p>A thin layer will glow a little, but the depth of the voids is what gives the glow resin the look you see here.</p>
<p>Hey Mike, do you mind providing the source of where you buy the Pecky Cypress in a size that's manageable for cutting into the right dimensions? I'm having a tough time finding a local source.</p>
<p>This type of wood is a regional thing, but can be found at some lumber yards. Luckily, any type of wood that has voids in it will work, so the type of wood isn't as important as the process.</p>
<p>I plan to build an electric guitar at some point and when I get into inlays this looks like it will come in handy!!! Might even make a similar table at some point :D</p>
<p>Very nice table, it looks great. That being said, I mean no offense in anyway from these questions, I'm just curious, but...</p><p>Any time in the past that I've applied epoxy resign to wood I'd go over it with a small torch/heat gun/hair dryer to get out as much of the trapped air as possible as to avoid the epoxy looking hazy/milky white. Was there a reason this wasn't done? I didn't know if it was an aspect of this type of epoxy additive (to glow in the dark) that would be ruined by doing this step? Was it this omitted step for the reason why the spots that were epoxied having a milky appearance when not glowing or is it the additive that allows it to glow? Beautiful table regardless I'm just checking because I just wanted to get an idea of what the appearance will be when not glowing. Thanks a lot and again, very nice table.</p>
<p>Step 10 explains the pour process here. Since there were so many small voids I did several small pours to ensure the coverage needed and stay within the pot life of the mixed resin. The milky appearance is a function of how the glow powder looks in daylight, a bone white color. Even with small air bubbles, the resin is clear but looks hazy from the glow powder. You could easily use a torch to remove any air bubbles, or give it a hot breath from your mouth at close range will also work.</p><p>I used a propane torch to remove bubbles in epoxy, you can see that in <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Lumberjack-table/" target="_blank" style="background-color: initial;">Step 10 and 11 of my Lumberjack Table.</a></p><p>I'd love to see your creation based on this when you're done. Good luck!</p>
<p>thanks for the reply and I'll definitely post some pics if i make it with this type of inlay...where I could use anothers opinion is with this- I don't want to take away from the very rustic looking wood I'm using but love the way the turquoise looks when glowing, I'm just nervous that the glow pigments when not glowing would look bad (like a bad epoxy job full of air bubbles). Any thoughts? Thanks a lot for your input!</p>
<p>The natural color of the glow powder is bone white, an alternative would be to accent the feature and use a glow powder that stays a color in natural light like this: <a href="http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3" style="background-color: initial;">http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3</a>. Either way, you will see something in the voids, just depends on what look you are going for. </p><p>I always recommend trying a sample mix and pour on scrap before committing. If you have more of the same type of wood it's best to try on that. This way you can dial in the amount of glow powder, the technique, and analyse the results. </p>
<p>Hi! I&rsquo;m an editor for Remodelaholic.com and am writing to request permission to use one of your table photos in an upcoming post. We would like to feature this in a round up and would include a backlink and clear credit to you.</p><p>Please let me know if this would work for you. Thanks for your consideration!</p><p>Kimberly</p>
<p>Any practical experience on how long glow powder lasts? And the referenced resin doesn't mention UV resistance. Are you really keeping this outdoors or just for photo op?</p>
<p>Glow powder should last a very long time, years.</p><p>Look for a resin that is UV stable and non-yellowing. The stuff I link to in Step 1 is both. </p><p>If you're planning on having a table outside it needs to be sealed with exterior polyurethane and an exterior grade resin.</p>
I was under the impression that UV stable resin and outdoor polyurethane both block UV light and therefore reduce our eliminate the effectiveness of glow in the dark paint. Could you shed some light (pun intended) on the apparent error in this rumor?
<p>I haven't noticed any reduction in efficacy with the UV coatings I've used. Since I can't test every variation, I suggest testing your glow powder/resin/poly combination on a small piece before committing to your final project. </p>
<p>ok. Thanks!</p>
<p>Doing something for my deck. Curious, how much powder should I mix with the resin? It's going to fill voids between pallet boards.</p>
<p>HI Mike i am just starting a couple of projects which are inspired by your work but during my tests on test pieces i found that if the reisin is not charged it just looks like glass. So my problem is that im aiming to get a color thats also visible during day time or normal light conditions. Any advice ?</p>
<p>What type of glow powder are you using? </p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Glow-Dark-Pigment-Powder/dp/B00H9103XW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Glow-Dark-Pigment-Powde...</a><br>I made my tests with this 1 .</p><p>Do you think that this is the problem ?<br></p>
<p>Not all glow powder has color under normal light. Here's one that glows blue, and looks blue under normal lighting: <a href="http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3" target="_blank">http://amzn.to/1PMgBV3</a></p>
<p>Thank you Mike i'm ordering this one and ill post the result in the end .</p>
I wondee if you you put the glow in the dark substance in AND stain the wood. I'm partial to a deep cherry oak stain or even a black stain which actually looks really nice. I'd be interested to know if there is a way to combine that with this
Meant if you could put both the glow-in-the-dark pattern and stain it
<p>I don't see why that wouldn't work. Please share your results!</p>
<p>Excellent idea , I will do it. How much glow powder I need for a table of 100 x 80 cm?</p>
<p>So, if you were to use a board with rot along the edges but wanted to maintain a straight boxed edge/rectangular what would you use as a barrier so you could pour the resin? Is there a material you could use to hold the epoxy in while it dries so that you could get the glow along the organic edge without getting epoxy everywhere?</p>
<p>Acrylic or melamine would be good choices, as they have a smooth surface that the resin has a hard time sticking to. If you look, I used clear acrylic strips to box my table in when I was pouring. </p>
<p>Epoxy, not resin. But I guess technically both could be used.</p>
<p>I absolutely love what you've done. I want one too, I'll be forwarding your instructable to my husband.</p>
<p>really like the idea and the finished results in some of the pictures shown are awesome. I haven't read through all the comments, but if it hasn't been mentioned before, a stencil and a bit of work with a router just opens up another world of possibilities. In my head, I have the mortal combat logo for some reason, I don't even like the game! Or am I missing something here?</p>
<p>Look in the comments, there's a router designed logo of a monkey :)</p>
<p>heyy how are u = </p>
<p>Wow, that looks amazing! Is that your table?</p><p>Is that all resin in the middle, and if so how many pours did it take?</p>
<p>hi mike </p><p>You taught us this job . Thank you</p><p>ı did 6 cm glow resin table</p><p>I Finished it's 6 days </p><p>All Items are not finish I'll send you a picture.</p>
<p>love it! looks like a google earth shot of water and beach/land... </p>
<p>That looks incredible! Thanks for sharing, you did a great job. </p>
<p>Hi Mike,</p><p>I really enjoyed reading your instructable and want to try something similar myself. There is just one problem, and immediately it's a big one. On this side of the big pond I can find all of the materials, except the right wood. It looks like this specific type of cypress doesn't grow in western Europe. </p><p>Do you have any advice on which type of wood I can use which has more or less the same characteristics? It seems like everybody who sells lumbar over here has wood which looks perfect and that's nice for building houses and everything but I just want those perfect imperfections :)</p><p>I really hope you can help me with this, thanks in advance!</p><p>Steven </p>
<p>Hey Steven!</p><p>I think Pecky Cypress only grows in the southern USA, so sourcing some can be difficult. Though the rotted voids are desirable for this application, there's no reason why you couldn't use splintered wood (reclaimed or barn wood), or even create your own voids artificially with a router or chisel. The results may look a little different to what I show, but people are more blown away with the glow than the wood.</p><p>I'd love to see your version when you make it, please keep us updated. Good luck!</p>

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