Ultimately, the design was meant for drifting. Since the winter was really bad around here (we haven't received a lot of precipitations), I was not able to film the rig on snow. However, I do have some pretty nice videos of this setup on different cars.
Step 1: Parts Needed
- Suctions cups
- Aluminum rod, 1/2 x 1/2 8 feet long
- Plywood 24" by 5"
- 1/4 20 2-1/2" long
- 1/4 nuts
- 1/4 washer
- 2,5 Lbs dumbell weight
- #6 wooden screws 1-1/4"
- Servo motor
- 6V lead-acid battery
- 4,8V battery
- Power switch
- Remote control transmitter and receiver
- GoPro camera
- Duck tape
Step 2: Suction Cup
They use the Fast Cap suctions cups found on Amazon for 10,39$ each! This is a very low price for the pretty good quality!
Each suction cup can hold 200lbs!! I was able to do pull ups with them!
Step 3: Servo Motor
The potentiometer inside was removed and replaced with another one that is attached to the output shaft. Therefore, it can move exactly like a standard servo.
Kyle from Servocity recommended me to choose the HS-805MG (MG stand for Metal Gears). Check out the pictures, they are pretty impressives!
Step 4: 3D Cad
Step 5: Equilibrium
The shaft of the power servo system can have up to 200lbs on either side of if. So, the equilibrium is just there to help out.
If you have a heavy counter weight, it takes longer for the motor to start spinning.
Step 6: Schematic
The most important part is the "Y" harness. The servo consumes a lot of current and the gyroscope can't provide enough of it (only the signal is sent to the servo). The servo is taking the power from the lead acid battery. Otherwise if would have taken the power from the little 0.6A (red) battery!
Step 7: Schematic
Step 8: The Wooden Base
Step 9: Install the Servo Motor
Step 10: Install the Gyroscope
Step 11: Install the Electrical Wires
Step 12: Install the FM Receiver
Step 13: Install the Batteries
What you are about to see is a very rugged way to mount the boom to the servo (it can be mounted differently).
I machined two spacers which goes inside the holes of the main gear. There is a lip on the spacer so it can't fall off.
Please have a look at the 2 last pictures. That was the original way to mount the gear to the aluminium boom.
The bolts are very short, vibration got them loose. That is why I created the spacers. The very first idea was to drill and bolt directly in the gear.
Step 15: Crane Support
The same principle can be observed on cranes in order to make the entire structure more stiff.
Step 16: Attaching the GoPro
Step 17: Attaching the Counter Weight
Step 18: Improvements
Here is the very first prototype as well as the latest version which is the most robust yet to be installed on the car.
Step 19: Improvement
Like this from servocity
Having a 1inch tubing will make the entire rig very stiff. We would need to install the potentiometer at the bottom of the shaft so we can get feedack.