Step 7: Square

Using the square mark a pencil line across each divider mark.
When I clicked on this I was thinking to myself &quot;Here's another instructable that is going to require a ten thousand dollar electronic tool I don't have access to.&quot; <br>Then I opened it, and you did it all by hand! <br>Thank you, <br>thank you very very much!
Wow! Thank you very very much!
Very clear and informative! <br>One of the best synthesis I have read on making dovetails. <br>Thank you.
<p>what's the difference between the marking gauge and cutting gauge? I'm looking to get into trying to make dovetails by hand and wasn't sure if I'd need both.</p>
So I know it's been four months since your question but in the case you have not found an answer somewhere else I'll try to my best ability to explain. So a marking gauge is generally a single point, something like a small nail tip or similar to a large quilting needle or leather needle. The purpose is to just mark a line. They work well both cross grain and with the grain. Generally they are used for lying out joinery. A cutting gauge on the other hand has a blade set into the tool. The blade is similar to the one found on nail clippers but they are sharp. A cutting gauge can do a lot of the work of a marking gauge with a few limitations and some bonuses. It does not work as well when using it with the grain. Any wood that is relatively porous the blade will have a tendency to fall into the grain and follow it rather than the line you're trying to scribe. Cutting gauges do have a big advantage though because they can actually cut through things like veneer or thin stock lumber. Sorry for such a long explanation but I hope it helps.
Great! Thanks.
http://woodgears.ca/dovetail/dovetail_vs_boxjoint.html<br>According to this site, dovetail is obsolete, supplanted by the box joint. For drawers, a rabbet w nails is all that's needed. The only reason to make dovetails is for looks.
<p>One reason for using a dovetail joint, aside from the obvious structural advantage and aside from the fact it is mentioned in a Beatles song, is that is just plain beautiful. </p><p>Question: In step 13 how do you assure the two boards are parallel?</p>
<p>Very good job</p>
Of everything I've built: chicken house, 10 bookcases, desk, dressers, tables, chairs, benches, headboard / footboard, etc. Not a single piece of furniture needed a dovetail joint: butt joint, lap joint, half-lap joint, etc. Apparently u know as much about dovetails as I do. At least in willing to ask the question rather than display my rude arrogance to the world. If that's your druthers, I'll help you. See my new 'ible here:<br><br>@Jogo76<br>Your wish is my command. My new Instructable is done. <br>
Forget HOW. Why?
Why? Because joinery is the strength of all woodwork. The real question is &quot;Why would you as why?&quot; Nevermind. I see now why. Why? Asks the guy that post instructions on how to take nails out of pallets. Maybe next you can teach us how to change a light bulb.
<p>too much effort but worth it for the precise edges</p><p>thank you sharing this and ur blog</p>
Thanks amekdala, I will be adding a video to this one soon.
bookmarked. also nice saw
Thanks Mage <br> <br>Stay tuned for my next instructable. Wont be for a Month or two but hopefully you'll enjoy it.
Excellent instructable. I have not done one of these by hand for many years. I was seduced into the router and fence approach. This approach provides so much more satisfaction, and the results are beautiful. Thank you and congratulations
Hi cobourgdave, <br> <br>Thanks for the feedback. Routers and jigs are brilliant and if I had heaps of dovetails to do I would use them without hesitation. However on small jobs I think there is little difference on router vs hand tools. The great thing with hand tools is that you can adjust and change at the drop of the hat.to suit the job in hand.
Is it possible to create both a dovetail and a pin on a single board? <br>
Hi rammstein2 <br> <br>Thanks for the question. Not to my knowledge, I think it would be impossible to engage the joint. Have you seen any?
If one were to make dovetail and pin on a board A, the dovetail <br>can engage board B with pins, and board C with tails. Then, <br>a long-grain glue join of boards B and C would create a strongly <br>locked corner, which could be useful. <br>Heck, with three boards (B, C, and D) you could make a <br>contrasting-wood stripe, both useful and decorative (or for <br>a drawer side, tough slider and top with a cheap poplar <br>body).
Hi Whit3rd <br> <br>Thanks for leaving a comment. Sounds fun, I would love to see it. Get your tools out then send me a photo of the finished joinery.
Nope. I was just wondering that most of the wood is removed from the pin board. Putting both a pin and a tail on a board would have ensured that the amount of waste wood is equal for both boards. <br>
Hi rammstein2 <br> <br>Thanks for the response, if you want equal waste you can adjust the setting out at step 6 for equal pins and tails. Equal pins and tails are mainly used on work where ultimate strength is the primary concern.
Thank you! Great instructable!
nice job.
Those look awesome. I've tried these joints before but they didn't look as nice as yours. I guess I'll just keep practicing
This looks like a type of project that takes not only the knowledge that you are putting forth here, but a certain level of skill. Getting the parts cut so precisely must take some practice. <br>I would like to try this someday when I have the time, however I think I would need to do some practice runs before being able to produce a finished product.
Hi lesizz <br> <br>Thanks for the feedback. You are right, some skill is involved and I recommend practicing on scrap timber before trying it on a project. Hope you find the time to give it a try and create something cool.
Nice work. Do u have time to make a video clip for the whole process?
Thanks again for the kind words! Sadly I am nearly at the end of my tool chest build so no more dovetails for a while. However in the future I would like to make a video. Stay tuned for some more &quot;How To&quot; as I finish my tool chest build.
im right behaind u ?
Great job making this instructable. I've been wrestling with learning this skill, and will definitely give this technique a go at the shop. Top notch job.
outstanding job, it showes traditional craftsmenship survives, well done. <br>
Beautiful, I have always wanted to try and make these.
I'm not going to lie I clicked on this because of the saw. That has got to be the nicest one I've seen, where did you get it? Also great worked I was thinking the same thing as mdeblasi1.
Hi Zergling_pack <br> <br>It's OK, I like my saw too! Contact http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/index.html or visit my blog where I review the saw and provide a link to the above. They have stockists worldwide and will be able to advise you best.
I enjoyed the instructable very much. You have a very beautiful finished product that I can only dream about. Great job.
awesome. Great work and a very well put together and clear Instructable. Thanks very much.
Well, but why do you always dovetail with a small pin and a tail too? Strength is not good, in fact, the side pin has not enough grain of the wood to ensure strength compared to the tail side that much more. The real cabinet, as my father was dovetails much more symmetrical and more solid, see drawing. try using a press, you will see which one breaks first.
Hi brimic, <br> <br>Thanks for the feedback. You are right. If strength is the primary concern pins and tails should be the same size. This equal pin and tail ratio you describe would be normally found on old cisterns or heavy duty work and is less common on furniture. It sounds like your father made a lovely cabinet. If you want equal pins and tails like your father made go to step 6 simply adjust my setting out.
Great job on this instructable! Those joints are beautifully done!
thank you for posting this !<br> <a href="http://www.upcycled101.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.upcycled101.com</a>m
Very good! Can you now show us how to do a double secret mitred dovetail? and get all the surfaces tight.
Hi Beekeeper. <br> <br>Who knows, follow my instructables and you never know what you might see ;-)
Excellent instructable. I can't wait to give it a try. I have always been concerned about working out a dovetail myself, but you make it look...do-able, if not easy. <br> <br>I do have one question. You state &quot;Undercut very slightly to allow the shoulders to pull up nicely&quot;. Could you please explain what this means? I may be dense here, but I can't figure it out. <br> <br>Thanks
Hi Dougwillis <br> <br>Thanks for the feedback! Your are not dense. Take a look at step 16. You can see the chisel paring the waste. This operation happens from both sides. Where the paring overlaps make sure it is very slightly lower than the baseline. Let me know if you need more help.
Got it! Thanks.

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Bio: I have had the good fortune of being able to work with wood for a living as a Carpenter & Joiner. My family have been professional ... More »
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