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This will cover rewinding of an alternator stator for use in a wind turbine generator.
Traditionally, the use of car alternators is discouraged in favor of homemade slow running axial flux generators. However I bought a small Hitachi alternator for 1/3 of the price of one rare earth N35 Neodymium magnet, typically one uses 24 of these magnets in a wind turbine, so it would take about 45yrs to recoup the costs of the magnets alone.
In other words, not gonna happen.
Im using a Hitachi alternator from an early 1970's 1200 Datsun that had an external regulator mounted on the fender in the engine bay.
I figured this being my first foray into alternator rewinding, it would be much easier learning on a simple little 35Amp alternator like this. The downside is the rather low output and I probably wont go to all the trouble of mounting it on a pole too.
Be that as it may, it serves as an example of how alternator rewinding is done, whether it is just repairing for auto use, or modding for windmill use.
Traditionally, the use of car alternators is discouraged in favor of homemade slow running axial flux generators. However I bought a small Hitachi alternator for 1/3 of the price of one rare earth N35 Neodymium magnet, typically one uses 24 of these magnets in a wind turbine, so it would take about 45yrs to recoup the costs of the magnets alone.
In other words, not gonna happen.
Im using a Hitachi alternator from an early 1970's 1200 Datsun that had an external regulator mounted on the fender in the engine bay.
I figured this being my first foray into alternator rewinding, it would be much easier learning on a simple little 35Amp alternator like this. The downside is the rather low output and I probably wont go to all the trouble of mounting it on a pole too.
Be that as it may, it serves as an example of how alternator rewinding is done, whether it is just repairing for auto use, or modding for windmill use.
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Signing UpStep 1Pull It Apart
This is relatively simple, 3 long bolts and the case is apart.
Then remove the field connection brushes from the rear of the case, it has the letters F and N on the connector, being field and neutral.
Once everything is apart, check the bearings for wear, they should turn freely without noise of grinding. They shouldn't spin which would indicate that they are dry.
Then remove the field connection brushes from the rear of the case, it has the letters F and N on the connector, being field and neutral.
Once everything is apart, check the bearings for wear, they should turn freely without noise of grinding. They shouldn't spin which would indicate that they are dry.
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Did you find a solution I'm having just the same issue:
- removed the bearings (using a gear puller),
- removed the slip ring (unsoldering the coil wire links),
- cannot remove the two "fingers" parts: even with the use of the gear puller (begins to smash the axe).
Any solution may help, Thanks in advance,
First I removed the bearing then the slip rings then the rotor finger part, the coil came off easy enough so I will be saving its wire.
Also this was in the early 1950's that this man did this without any fancy jigs or maybe one he made, because he did take the motor back inside to his work bench to rewind it.
Its likely he learned this trade from someone else. this was small town Mayberry back then, 2000 people.
I then spent 12 years myself in electronic trouble shooting, later in life, then 33 year building New Homes
Here is another motor you might want to consider. The attached picture shows a power-steering motor from an 06 GM Malibu. This is basically a three phase servo motor.
The picture also shows the amplifier next to the motor. The other little board is the hall sensor encoder board off the back of the motor.
What makes this motor good for windmill applications is that it already has good magnets for the rotor. So, no slip rings or loss power to magnetize the rotor.
I use to work for Motorola who made the amplifier for Delphi. I know that motor can handle 100 amps of current for short durations. It might be small, but it is really powerful. Just look at the size of the power connectors in the attached photo.
Just goofing around, I smoked my voltmeter's fuse by hand cranking the motor while trying to measure current output.
Anyway, just a thought that maybe there is a better motor to start your experiments with.
Good Luck,
Jim