How to Build a 12x20 Cabin on a Budget

 by coolbeansbaby68
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 I wanted to have a cabin on my property for quite some time now but with the economy, The prices of having one built has more than doubled... So i had to build it myself . Six years ago i bought a 12x16 shed from a well known company by where i live. It cost 2,000.00 for them to build it and drop it off.  Now that same building  would cost 4200,00 dollars.After i was finished with this building with the door and 3 windows the total amount i spent was 2200.00 dollars


If you would like to see the finished inside instructable please click here ...http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-finish-the-inside-of-a-12-x-20-cabin-on-a-b/
 
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Step 1: Floor Illustration

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 Here is the 12x20 floor plan showing where the 4x4s and the floor joists would be located.
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csherry says: May 13, 2013. 8:25 PM
i like it! as far as the snow load problem just adjust the pitch of the roof as you ( the builder) see fit. A good source of ideas would be to look at sheds , garages, etc. in your neighborhood..... and as for the horizontal braces use the width of the board, not the thickness. but overall like i said "i like it!"
maewert says: Sep 2, 2012. 10:36 AM
I enjoyed this instructable. Nicely done and well thought out.

At first I was concerned about the roof system, however. (I'm used to building in the mountains where we could get a 3 foot snow load so I'm a little paranoid.) My concern in that over time a heavy snow load would press down on the roof, and the forces would tend to bow the center rafter board at its center, which would pull the center 4x4 posts away from each other at their tops. While the two 2x10 stringers would hold the corner posts together (one at each end of the building) the center post 4x4 tops are mostly held in by the strength of the 4x4 itself (being held straight by the concrete base). The double stringers on the long sides would provide some resistance for the center 4x4 tops from being pressed outward but their real strength is set to provide sagging resistance for the rafter boards. Of course if this began to happen you could always add another internal stringer between the center 4x4 posts (either made of wood or metal) but this would be a shame to break up the nice open internal roof space.

Maybe your snow loads are light enough to never see a problem! I just would hate to see heavy snows and wood bending over time to ruin your good work.

Best Wishes
menahunie in reply to maewertSep 2, 2012. 12:36 PM
I would have to agree with your assessment.
I one of my first jobs in life was building houses and this is not a "cabin"; just a "shed".
It is not fit for habitation if that is what this poster is going to use it for.
Granted it looks nice and that is about as far as it goes.
Snow load is poor due to the roof constructed; I would put money down it collapses when there is heavy snow or starts to cave in after a number of snows.
The posts buried in to the dirt with no concrete footing as well as they are now termite magnets. Also six basic legs supporting an x number thousand or so pounds of roof that can and will fall on you when it collapses.
Very poor horizontal and vertical bracing in the walls; good storm and the wind will push it over..
I would have sheeted the outer wall with either plywood or the current sheeting used on houses; far cheaper than what was used.
As one poster pointed and I do as well as I now buy shipping containers instead.
Way Way stronger and way way more secure. I just construct a gabled roof and bolt it to the top and cut my door and windows. I also sheet the outside with the current housing wood sheeting and it really looks nice; steel underneath it..
Joesmania in reply to menahunieJan 5, 2013. 6:45 AM
An easy fix for the snow load concerns is to simply put in some collar ties, either 2x4 or 2x6 which ever makes you feel better..... 2x4 would be just fine.

You do not have to put them in at wall height, and if you just did them in the area in question (say, oh, about an 8’ to 10’ section dead center) and sheeted the bottom of it you could have a nice spot to mount a light, or use as storage for fishing poles etc.... or you could put two sets in said area, one set about 1’ under the ridge, and the second set 1’ to 2’ above wall height …….. Either way, this would hold the outward pressure on the walls, from any weight exerted on the roof system.
Joesmania in reply to menahunieDec 28, 2012. 3:03 PM
(removed by author or community request)
maewert in reply to JoesmaniaDec 28, 2012. 7:33 PM
coolbeansbaby68 really does beautiful work, however, I thought that I would be remiss if I did not point out what I thought to be a design flaw (especially one which could result in injury) and I provided a solution as well which could be added later if problems surface.

My comments were meant to be constructive only and were not meant to be picking his instructable apart.  My apologies to coolbeansbaby68 if this is how my comment was perceived.

Best Wishes
kage_no_mozaiku in reply to menahunieSep 2, 2012. 10:34 PM
yes, a better set up would be a 2 ply 2x10 glue lam beam and a 3/8 inch thick plyboard core with 2x6 truss planks secured to the beam by hurricane clips. i would have also added 2x4 studs set at 16 in centres, maybe even adding a couple more purlins. then again, mother and i always over engineered our projects lol.
jwzumwalt says: Sep 2, 2012. 11:58 AM
I have built (and taught carpentry) many such small sheds but there are several techniques that are new and I will try the next time I have one to build.

One suggestion would be to mention hurricane straps on the roof joists at least in a couple places.

You have negligible eves/soffit and your picture shows a well sheltered area surround by trees but other builders may not be aware that a stiff wind will catch the porch overhang and tear the whole roof off. This could happen at about 75+mph. Most places in the US have strong winds at least once a year. In the old days trappers would use large tin cans or roof tin and metal snips. Now we have it easy with straps from the hardware store.

Nice job, and thanks for sharing!
Joesmania in reply to jwzumwaltDec 28, 2012. 3:18 PM
Did you read step 13? Hurricane studs? Just the old-school way of doing hurricane clips... uses scrap lumber so it saves waste, and also saves money on the purchase of the clips form the store. . . .
kndnnyj in reply to jwzumwaltSep 5, 2012. 1:34 PM
Step 9 includes hurricane studs which will do the same thing as the straps, but even more secure than straps. I have used that method before and it really connects the roofing to the frame. It has been in winds that blew barns down and the shed still stands.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to kndnnyjSep 27, 2012. 8:30 AM
Absolutely correct. It also stiffens everything up once your finished
jwzumwalt in reply to kndnnyjSep 5, 2012. 6:01 PM
While I do not disagree that the design is wonderful and sturdy, I have lived in 4 western states and they all require "metal" restraints. As with many "custom" design techniques that deserve merit, the local building dept won't normally approve waivers unless there is an engineering sign off. It's such a small thing to ovoid a confrontation with the inspector (if you plan to have it approved). Of course it varies with the area you live in. In the Seattle area the State really takes time to inspect properties and they usually take pictures every couple of years. In the Boise, ID area they have a much more relaxed attitude. Of course the merits of what is reasonable intrusion by the govt quickly gets started with this type of discussion.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to jwzumwaltSep 3, 2012. 5:30 AM
I put pictures of the hurricane straps in this instructable.
camping crazy says: Oct 23, 2012. 4:42 PM
look at my very cheapo version of this I just posted its not as nice but it will do
Tarp and strapping shed very cheap
Dr. P says: Oct 13, 2012. 5:46 PM
Nice job! You do good work. I like the simplicity of materials and plan. We're toying with a similar idea, but in south Georgia (USA), we'll have to put it up off the ground a bit. Can. Not. Wait. Thanks for the straightforward instructions. Now, any changes you'd make? Lessons learned?
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to Dr. POct 14, 2012. 6:33 AM
Well 1st thing is you always want it bigger hahahaha. The 2nd thing would be maybe 2 story or at least a steeper pitch roof.Other than that its pretty much what i was looking for ...Thanks for the compliment...
megnwayn says: Sep 5, 2012. 12:45 AM
Don't try building this in New Zealand! It does not comply with the Building Code and you also risk a substantial fine if it is constructed without a Building Consent.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to megnwaynSep 27, 2012. 8:31 AM
What are your building codes ? Why doesnt this work
megnwayn in reply to coolbeansbaby68Sep 28, 2012. 12:48 PM
Greetings,

Building in New Zealand is governed by the Building Code and by NZS 3604:2011 (Timber-framed building standard.)

This instructable infringes the NZ standard in so many ways that it would not pass initial scrutiny by a Local Authority if a Building Consent application was to be lodged.

A few points -

1) The joists are too close to the ground, are attached to the boundary "bearer" with nails in shear and have no approved metal hangers.
2) Foundations can be either a concrete slab with footings and steel reinforcing to suit the site or piles (set in concrete) which support bearers which in turn support the joists. A "pole" building such as this does not comply.
3) Wall framing must be by way of studs (size and spacing to NZS 3604) - a building of this sizs would need guaged 100mm x 50mm studs. Walings fixed to posts to support cladding is not acceptable for a habitable building. The entire floor, walls,roof and cladding on this instructable are supported by coach screws in shear.
4) The rafters are not connected be either ceiling joists or collar ties to prevent the walls being forced apart under live roof loads.
5) There are no moisture barriers in floor, walls or roof.
6) There appears to be no head flashings to the joinery.
7) Bracing, under the code, is inadequate for wind and earthquake.

I do not suggest that the building causes danger to its occupants - just that the NZ viewer was thinking of building it in their yard and by doing so would cause much trouble for themselves.



coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to megnwaynOct 1, 2012. 6:23 AM
Sounds like a head ache for you guys
megnwayn in reply to coolbeansbaby68Oct 1, 2012. 12:41 PM
No - not really. It just means that tried and tested building methods are used -, which perform well in our local conditions. In addition a structure which requires a Building Consent can only be built by a Licensed Building Practitioner (tradesman carpenter).
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to megnwaynOct 2, 2012. 1:51 AM
Yikes you mean you cant build it yourself?
megnwayn in reply to coolbeansbaby68Oct 2, 2012. 12:13 PM
That's correct - you can't build yourself. You can assist a Licensed Building Practitioner who oversees your work and who must sign off all the works before a Code of Compliance Certificate is issued at job completion by the Local Authority which issued the Building Consent

The idea is to protect subsequent building owners by having property records show that the building was constructed to the Building Code by proper use of the Standard..
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to megnwaynOct 3, 2012. 10:29 AM
Jeeez That kinda bad for the consumer trying to same money
denewf says: Sep 26, 2012. 4:56 AM
Would heavy plastic on the ground and pressure treated wood. at least on the floor structure, help the moisture and ant/termite problems some respondents have concerns about? Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Thank you for the help in keeping the grey matter churning.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to denewfSep 26, 2012. 5:24 AM
The floor joist are pressure treated and the floor is insulated with 4 inch HI R board between the joist.
Electronics Man says: Sep 22, 2012. 6:32 AM
This would make an awsome workshop!
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to Electronics ManSep 22, 2012. 1:41 PM
yes it would actually . Im finishing the inside right now . I will post a instruuctable about it when its finished.
Chadifornia says: Sep 20, 2012. 3:09 PM
That is SUPER COOL brother. Its like a cabin/mancave. I think that will be my next big project if I can get the "boss" on board. Ha
Thanks for the plans & keep up the good work.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to ChadiforniaSep 20, 2012. 6:13 PM
thank you
whltng says: Sep 5, 2012. 10:52 PM
For those really needing to meet codes and build this on moist grounding, eleminate the wood flooring and put a concrete stem wall, then a 3- 4-inch deep concrete slab with a sand base and a plumbing connection with a vent thru the roof as well as an A/C unit at least in the wall. I would also use gluelams at the roof along with wall bracing and tie downs from floor to roof. This would be much more than a "shack.” It would provide the structural integrity needed to make this a true "cabin.” Of course, it would cost more. But you could meet any code out there today. I mean why not those add that as an option?
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to whltngSep 7, 2012. 2:12 PM
This building in nys meets all the building codes here .
whltng in reply to coolbeansbaby68Sep 7, 2012. 7:35 PM
I live in Oklahoma. And I was refering to other States. You have a great Idea, I was making a suggestion of taking it a little further. Nice design, however you take it... whltng
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to whltngSep 8, 2012. 4:29 AM
Thank you
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to whltngSep 8, 2012. 4:29 AM
Thank you
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to whltngSep 8, 2012. 4:29 AM
Thank you
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to whltngSep 8, 2012. 4:29 AM
Thank you
kndnnyj says: Sep 5, 2012. 12:49 PM
I have the perfect place to build one of these cabins. The Texas Hill country. I'll make some minor changes to make it more durable. It is going to a concrete slab with in door plumbing.
coolbeansbaby68 (author) in reply to kndnnyjSep 5, 2012. 4:36 PM
nice Take lots of pictures!
bogrider904 says: Sep 3, 2012. 11:09 PM
Quite impressed!!
i live in New Zealand a wee country beside Australia and i have always wanted to build a cabin in our back yard
this would be ideal though is the wood treated and how warm is it inside the cabin as it gets quite cold here and damp
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