If you would like to see the finished inside instructable please click here ...http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-finish-the-inside-of-a-12-x-20-cabin-on-a-b/
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At first I was concerned about the roof system, however. (I'm used to building in the mountains where we could get a 3 foot snow load so I'm a little paranoid.) My concern in that over time a heavy snow load would press down on the roof, and the forces would tend to bow the center rafter board at its center, which would pull the center 4x4 posts away from each other at their tops. While the two 2x10 stringers would hold the corner posts together (one at each end of the building) the center post 4x4 tops are mostly held in by the strength of the 4x4 itself (being held straight by the concrete base). The double stringers on the long sides would provide some resistance for the center 4x4 tops from being pressed outward but their real strength is set to provide sagging resistance for the rafter boards. Of course if this began to happen you could always add another internal stringer between the center 4x4 posts (either made of wood or metal) but this would be a shame to break up the nice open internal roof space.
Maybe your snow loads are light enough to never see a problem! I just would hate to see heavy snows and wood bending over time to ruin your good work.
Best Wishes
I one of my first jobs in life was building houses and this is not a "cabin"; just a "shed".
It is not fit for habitation if that is what this poster is going to use it for.
Granted it looks nice and that is about as far as it goes.
Snow load is poor due to the roof constructed; I would put money down it collapses when there is heavy snow or starts to cave in after a number of snows.
The posts buried in to the dirt with no concrete footing as well as they are now termite magnets. Also six basic legs supporting an x number thousand or so pounds of roof that can and will fall on you when it collapses.
Very poor horizontal and vertical bracing in the walls; good storm and the wind will push it over..
I would have sheeted the outer wall with either plywood or the current sheeting used on houses; far cheaper than what was used.
As one poster pointed and I do as well as I now buy shipping containers instead.
Way Way stronger and way way more secure. I just construct a gabled roof and bolt it to the top and cut my door and windows. I also sheet the outside with the current housing wood sheeting and it really looks nice; steel underneath it..
You do not have to put them in at wall height, and if you just did them in the area in question (say, oh, about an 8’ to 10’ section dead center) and sheeted the bottom of it you could have a nice spot to mount a light, or use as storage for fishing poles etc.... or you could put two sets in said area, one set about 1’ under the ridge, and the second set 1’ to 2’ above wall height …….. Either way, this would hold the outward pressure on the walls, from any weight exerted on the roof system.
My comments were meant to be constructive only and were not meant to be picking his instructable apart. My apologies to coolbeansbaby68 if this is how my comment was perceived.
Best Wishes
One suggestion would be to mention hurricane straps on the roof joists at least in a couple places.
You have negligible eves/soffit and your picture shows a well sheltered area surround by trees but other builders may not be aware that a stiff wind will catch the porch overhang and tear the whole roof off. This could happen at about 75+mph. Most places in the US have strong winds at least once a year. In the old days trappers would use large tin cans or roof tin and metal snips. Now we have it easy with straps from the hardware store.
Nice job, and thanks for sharing!
Tarp and strapping shed very cheap
Building in New Zealand is governed by the Building Code and by NZS 3604:2011 (Timber-framed building standard.)
This instructable infringes the NZ standard in so many ways that it would not pass initial scrutiny by a Local Authority if a Building Consent application was to be lodged.
A few points -
1) The joists are too close to the ground, are attached to the boundary "bearer" with nails in shear and have no approved metal hangers.
2) Foundations can be either a concrete slab with footings and steel reinforcing to suit the site or piles (set in concrete) which support bearers which in turn support the joists. A "pole" building such as this does not comply.
3) Wall framing must be by way of studs (size and spacing to NZS 3604) - a building of this sizs would need guaged 100mm x 50mm studs. Walings fixed to posts to support cladding is not acceptable for a habitable building. The entire floor, walls,roof and cladding on this instructable are supported by coach screws in shear.
4) The rafters are not connected be either ceiling joists or collar ties to prevent the walls being forced apart under live roof loads.
5) There are no moisture barriers in floor, walls or roof.
6) There appears to be no head flashings to the joinery.
7) Bracing, under the code, is inadequate for wind and earthquake.
I do not suggest that the building causes danger to its occupants - just that the NZ viewer was thinking of building it in their yard and by doing so would cause much trouble for themselves.
The idea is to protect subsequent building owners by having property records show that the building was constructed to the Building Code by proper use of the Standard..
Thank you for the help in keeping the grey matter churning.
Thanks for the plans & keep up the good work.
i live in New Zealand a wee country beside Australia and i have always wanted to build a cabin in our back yard
this would be ideal though is the wood treated and how warm is it inside the cabin as it gets quite cold here and damp