Soda Can Solar Space heater
This is a basic "how to" on creating your own soda can space heater. Several videos can be found on the net, but none of them really provide a step by step guide. I put this entire unit together with about 10 total hours of actual labor. If you have a source of cans, lumber, and a old double paned window (preferably), you can assembly one of these yourself.
Required Materials
• 1 window, 46.5 " L x 23 " W (recycled/freecycle, double paned)
o The selection of the window will dictate the number of cans required for the array.
• For this size window, the number of soda/beer cans required is 72.
• 4 x (1 x 6) boards (not pine or poplar).
• Board Insulation
• Great stuff foam insulation
• 2 x 2.5 inch vents (bottom intake vents)
• 1 x 3 inch vent (top)
• 3 x 4" squares of screen material
• Metal Duct Tape (for can assembly and final sealing)
• 1/4" plyboard (for the back of the box) in this case the measurement is 2'x4'
• Black spray enamel (about 2 cans is sufficient for a 72 can array and painting the box. )
• 3 v computer fan.
• 3 v solar cell (s).
• screws
• brad nails
Required Tools
• Screw Gun
• Tin Snips
• Brad Nail Gun
• 2 and 5/8 inch hole bore drill bit.
• Hand saw or Circular saw
• Jig Saw
• Clamps
• Square
• Tape measure
• Pencil
This is a basic "how to" on creating your own soda can space heater. Several videos can be found on the net, but none of them really provide a step by step guide. I put this entire unit together with about 10 total hours of actual labor. If you have a source of cans, lumber, and a old double paned window (preferably), you can assembly one of these yourself.
Required Materials
• 1 window, 46.5 " L x 23 " W (recycled/freecycle, double paned)
o The selection of the window will dictate the number of cans required for the array.
• For this size window, the number of soda/beer cans required is 72.
• 4 x (1 x 6) boards (not pine or poplar).
• Board Insulation
• Great stuff foam insulation
• 2 x 2.5 inch vents (bottom intake vents)
• 1 x 3 inch vent (top)
• 3 x 4" squares of screen material
• Metal Duct Tape (for can assembly and final sealing)
• 1/4" plyboard (for the back of the box) in this case the measurement is 2'x4'
• Black spray enamel (about 2 cans is sufficient for a 72 can array and painting the box. )
• 3 v computer fan.
• 3 v solar cell (s).
• screws
• brad nails
Required Tools
• Screw Gun
• Tin Snips
• Brad Nail Gun
• 2 and 5/8 inch hole bore drill bit.
• Hand saw or Circular saw
• Jig Saw
• Clamps
• Square
• Tape measure
• Pencil
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Signing UpStep 1: Cans and Manifold
Step 1
Consume beverages. Yes, you have to drink all the beers/sodas to make this heater, though alternatively, you could collect them. Whatever the method, it is important that the cans are in fairly good condition, free from dents, cracks, or tears.
After you’ve collected the requisite amount of cans, you should sand the surfaces of the cans, both to remove the paint with sandpaper and to roughen the surface so as to make the paint adhere more easily to the can.
The cans are needed to assemble the metal heating tubes. The cans will be assembled end to end, so punch a hole into the bottom. Use the punched hole to make a series of cuts with the tin snips to create a baffle between each can. Also, cut or break the pop tops off the cans to make stacking better.
Step 2
Once the cans are sanded, the array must be planned. Place cans side by side along the bottom board, leaving a small space between each can. Draw the outline of the cans on the bottom board to make the first manifold. Provide enough space from each edge to make sure the board will not break when drilling the can-sized holes. Use the 2 5/8 inch hole drill bit. Use metal tape to shore up the borders between the can holes as the drill will likely create thin walls between each can hole.
While you are drilling, you can drill the holes for the vents. The top of the box will house the single 3" vent. The 2 smaller vents go in the bottom of the box. You can set a square of screen material over the holes before you press the vents in, which will help to keep insects out of the heater when it is finished.
Consume beverages. Yes, you have to drink all the beers/sodas to make this heater, though alternatively, you could collect them. Whatever the method, it is important that the cans are in fairly good condition, free from dents, cracks, or tears.
After you’ve collected the requisite amount of cans, you should sand the surfaces of the cans, both to remove the paint with sandpaper and to roughen the surface so as to make the paint adhere more easily to the can.
The cans are needed to assemble the metal heating tubes. The cans will be assembled end to end, so punch a hole into the bottom. Use the punched hole to make a series of cuts with the tin snips to create a baffle between each can. Also, cut or break the pop tops off the cans to make stacking better.
Step 2
Once the cans are sanded, the array must be planned. Place cans side by side along the bottom board, leaving a small space between each can. Draw the outline of the cans on the bottom board to make the first manifold. Provide enough space from each edge to make sure the board will not break when drilling the can-sized holes. Use the 2 5/8 inch hole drill bit. Use metal tape to shore up the borders between the can holes as the drill will likely create thin walls between each can hole.
While you are drilling, you can drill the holes for the vents. The top of the box will house the single 3" vent. The 2 smaller vents go in the bottom of the box. You can set a square of screen material over the holes before you press the vents in, which will help to keep insects out of the heater when it is finished.
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(It's possible you need to follow his link to find the reasoning for the holes)
If you increase the residence time of the air in the unit (by restricting the air flow), you give the air more time to heat up. If the air runs too quickly through the unit, you won't get as much heat from the unit as you might.
But if you restrict the airflow too much, you run the risk of the unit overheating. The unit can get very hot in direct sunlight. Depending on your situation, you could modulate this with a stronger fan (or even an intake fan) to really control your residence time.
I'd be interested to see if you could build a smaller version that could heat the air up more or a larger unit that could heat the air up a little less and see if that could be used to deliver the right temperature of air.
Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2063071&allCount=68&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FStandard+case+fans&fbn=Type%2FStandard+case+fans&filterName=Type&filterValue=Standard+case+fans
NewEgg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129028
Just run on down to your local computer supply store and tool around. I'm sure you'll find one. Good luck!
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In a U shape, connecting the Us with another upside down U
Attach them together with heatsinks attached to the insides of the tubes.
When I build my next one I may have to steal your idea ^_^
I had No idea it produced this much heat.
Have you experimented with a higher volume of cool air to determine what temp the unit will drop to.
You can control the speed of a nice squrril cage fan with a light dimmer to experiment with air flow (CFM) to heat output ratio. This might turn out to be a saleable product.
I like the idea of the dimmer switch fan, but currently, the solar panel powered fan actually does the same job by increasing or decreasing the fan speed with the intensity of the incident light.