How to Desolder Electronic Components From Circuit Boards - 7 Tips & Tricks | Free Parts for Projects!




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Introduction: How to Desolder Electronic Components From Circuit Boards - 7 Tips & Tricks | Free Parts for Projects!

About: 15 year old, sick with a deadly disease called DIY-itis!

Whether if you're a beginner at soldering, or are not but still have never come across the special time-saving tools you never knew you needed, I have created the perfect kit for you!: The Ultimate DIYer's Kit for Soldering & Basic Electronics Projects!⁽ᴼᵗʰᵉʳ ˢᵖᵉᶜᶦᵃᶫᵗʸ ᵗᵒᵒᶫˢ ʷᶦᶫᶫ ᵇᵉ ᶫᶦᶰᵏᵉᵈ ᶦᶰ ᵗʰᵉᶦʳ ʳᵉᶠᵉʳʳᵉᵈ ˢᵗᵉᵖˢ⁾

I had the urge to start this Instructable with so many puns, but I had a feeling that not everyone reading this at hΩ would know watt I'm talking about.

There are many reasons for why you'd want to desolder components from old PCBs (circuit boards). Need those old, high-quality components? Can't afford new components? Don't have time to wait for components to arrive in the mail? Want to annoy your (re)sister because she hates the smell of solder?



I know many people relay on these Instructables because they have a tight budget, so I will now switch modes, before people start getting AMPed up, feeling as if they have been misLED.

Desoldering electronic components can be quite challenging sometimes. Not everything can be removed as easily as just placing the soldering iron on the leads of the part, and pulling, unfortunately. In this Instructable I will show you how to desolder even faster - and better! This Instructable is a collection of my top 7 tips which I have come up with after failing to desolder more components that I'd like to admit, and breaking them, ruining them, etc. Hundreds of PCBs too late :)

WARNING: Some older PCBs may contain lead in the solder, Always make sure you are aware of all of the dangers incorporated with any type of electronics work, and always wash your hands after handling any type of electronic component. Guess why the Romans that used lead as an "artificial" sweetener for their wine stopped consuming it?

Let's get started!


(Watch the quick Youtube video to see the tips & tricks in action!)

Tired of skipping through boring DIY videos? In case you don't already know, I now make short, tightly edited Youtube videos about homemade tools, tool hacks, woodworking, electronics, metalworking projects and much more - Subscribe to so you don't miss out! :)

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Step 1: ...What Type of Soldering Iron Do I Need? THIS ONE!!!

This, in my opinion, is the best, cheapest #notsponsored soldering iron. Why?

Let's compare it with my (older) Antex soldering iron, which I had used for the past couple of years, and costs the same:

  • You can adjust the temperature and it has a digital screen! Total game changer! Turn up the temperature for bigger components (+ it's also 60W), turn down the temperature for more sensitive components, and perhaps best of all, turning down the temperature so the flux doesn't burn as fast so the fumes aren't as bad.
  • It heats up so fast. Less than 30 seconds and you can use it! Makes me wonder why it would take the Antex several minutes to warm up.
  • It has an on/off switch on the iron itself, so I don't get lazy and leave the iron on when not in use, decreasing the life of the tip.
  • The cable is way more pretty flexible, the Antex has a really thick cord and it was pretty difficult for me to hold it and maneuver it around tight corners, at sharp angles.

...And it costs 20-$25.

I must admit when coming across this soldering iron I said to myself that $20, while it might not sound like a lot to you, is way over my budget, but now I can only regret not buying it earlier!

If you would like to get one of these soldering irons, you could do so, as always using this affiliate link that helps support my future projects: 60W 110/220V Digital Adjustable Temperature Soldering Iron

And speaking of cheap irons for beginners, I would advise against listening to all of the "professionals" that have flooded online forums, explaining why the "stick in the wall" pencil soldering irons without temperature control are absolutely horrible and useless. I've used many. Yes, when they try using them to solder components onto a $250 multilayer custom-made PCB they spent 4 months designing, of course they prefer a soldering station. But for the average beginner, they are fine. No need to waste your money.

*Get a cheap soldering iron tip set like the one linked above, see which ones you like using, and buy more of those. Personally, I like the D-tips (as explained best in JColvin91's Instructable: Uses of Different Desoldering Tips) since I do mostly "rough" soldering jobs. The B-tips are great for soldering components to PCBs, but transfer heat poorly and wear out faster from my experience.

Step 2: Build (or Buy) a PROPER Circuit Board Holder!

Last tool before we get started!

There are many options for circuit board holders that you can buy online, however, I have chosen to make my own over 2 years ago and have been using it ever since. I bought a cheap aluminum vise on eBay, cut it in half, and glued it onto a microwave transformer so I can use it to clamp circuit boards (or anything else) horizontally.

If you'd like detailed instructions and links to what I used to make it, click here to view the Instructable: WAVE - The Ultimate Helping Hands Vise!

After publishing the Instructable, I also added flexible arms (using a cheap broken Gorillapod tripod) with alligator clips in the back, and solder spool dispenser, and a container that holds brass wire that I use for cleaning my soldering iron tip, that attaches with a magnet. I also removed the coils from the transformer (which was used just as a weight) because I think it looks better without them.

If you are looking to buy a proper circuit board holder I've included several great options in The Ultimate Kit for Soldering & Basic Electronics. I can only be jealous if you get a Panavise!

Step 3: Solder - and Why You Actually Want to Add More!

Solder is cheap! The cheap solder that I buy is cheap, that is. And why does that matter?

Many times, there isn't enough solder on a circuit board for the soldering iron tip to make contact with. The solder just won't melt, making it really difficult to remove a component. Add a bit of solder, and you'll see for yourself how much of a difference it makes! I also like adding extra solder to some solder joints, because the more solder you add, the longer the glob of liquid solder will stay molten, and the more time you'll have for prying out the component. This can be a life saver when trying to desolder components with many /leads, relays especially.

Do it fast enough, and you won't damage the component due to excessive heat. Of course I'm saying this very confidently after never testing any of the components I've ever salvaged using this method! ;)

Step 4: "Wiggle" Components (electrolytic Capacitors, Relays, Etc.)

This trick works the best for through-hole components that are mounted flush with the PCB, especially electrolytic capacitors.

After adding a glob of solder as explained in the previous step, I melt the solder on one lead of the capacitor, and pull it out, as much as I can (which is normally about half way). Then, I melt the other lead, pulling it also as much as I can. I then repeat, and many times as it is necessary until I have freed the component.

See the video liked in the intro step for a better explanation, I can't show it properly in the pictures because someone needs to take pictures!

Step 5: A Blow-Torch!

I came up with the idea of using a blowtorch while brainstorming ideas for this Instructable, and when I first tried it just to see if it would actually work, I was shocked to see how fast I can desolder with it!

Seriously. I can use it to desolder huge capacitors that might take me a minute or two (for one capacitor) in a few seconds. I also had one circuit board that had dozens of the exact same relay, and instead of having it be repetitive and boring, it was repetitive but very fast. I had all of them desoldered in only a few minutes. After conducting a few unprofessional experiments and running out of PCB's, I came to the conclusion that the closer you are to the solder joint that has to be melted, the faster it melts without burning PCB, and the smaller the flame needs to be.

The gas canister/tank was purchased separately at a hardware store, but if you want to buy your own blow torch, I would advise against buying the really cheap ones because you are dealing with combustible gas. I couldn't find the exact one I got, however, I did find a similar torch from the same company, KOVEA, and a torch that looks exactly the same but costs a third of what we paid. The only difference is the logo so it probably is the same inside. I would love to also get a smaller Dremel pencil shaped soldering iron torch (to use without the soldering iron tip), or this Dremel mini standing torch, because right now I have the crazy powerful torch shown above, and a regular BBQ lighter, I need something in the middle.

Also similar to this, if you don't own a blow torch, try heating up the surrounding parts of the PCB with a hair dryer, the hotter the PCB is the less heat it will draw away from from the solder joint.

Important warning: Instructables member fstedie points out an important warning I somehow forgot to mention. PCBs, if burnt, produce fumes you don't want to be inhaling. I have found that getting the torch (lowest power) as close as possible to the solder joint (even if you're desoldering a component with many leads) works best to eliminate burning of the PCB. If you can't afford a proper solder fume extractor, I would suggest that you work outside, in a ventilated area. I've connected a powerful fan to a flexible IKEA lamp which I use to exhaust the fumes and it works really well, similar to what I made in my first featured Instructable. Don't read it. The electronics kit linked has you covered with what you need without making me feel... Let me know if you want to see a picture.

Step 6: Off With Their Legs! I Mean Rotary Tool Time!

I know you might think this one is kind of funny ...or ridiculous... But if you have components with really thick leads such as the connector shown above, a big transistor/IC, or one of those diodes with massively thick leads, desoldering can damage them, if it's even possible at all. Don't want to ruin the *precious* cutting edges of your wire cutters?

This is where a rotary tool comes to mind!

I used my 18,000 RPM Flex-shaft rotary tool (click for the 110V tool) with cutoff wheels, all linked in my kit, Dremels & Rotary Tools: All of The Accessories You Need, which I recommend checking out if you've never used a rotary tool, and need to know what to get. Let me know if you want me to make more kits of the stuff I use, I've already made a few and I hope you'll find them useful.

Just make sure to not cut into the PCB, and cut off only the leads (metal wires) of electronic components, without cutting into the solder joint accidentally because of the chance of creating and inhaling lead dust. Other than that, you shouldn't have any issues other than the occasional shattering of a cutoff wheel, but they are really cheap.

Step 7: Break the PCB

Yes, I know. Prolonged exposure to silica dust is far from healthy. But if you do it only once in a while, chances are y...

*Loses consciousness due to excessive amounts of silica in lungs*

Your last resort? Break it!

Large heatsinks are pretty much impossible to desolder, the solder never gets hot enough to melt because the heatsink absorbs all of the heat immediately. If you want those free heatsinks... You'll have to break the PCB! Just make sure to do it in a ventilated area.

Some more thoughts:

  • I'd like to hear your thoughts on heat guns, soldering guns, desoldering pots, wicks/braids, solder suckers, and any other tool that helps you desolder components. Comment: Which would you recommend, and why? What is YOUR secret tip for desoldering challenging components?
  • Keep your hands dusty! Yup! After grabbing hundreds of small components off of a PCB, you're bound to accidentally grabbing the tip of the soldering iron accidentally. I'm not the only one I know that has done that. The super thin layer of dust acts as insulation an makes the soldering iron slide right off, and you don't get burnt!
  • This Instructable contains affiliate links, meaning that I earn a small percentage of what you paid, without any additional costs to you. If you want to know more about a specific tool/part that I used, need ideas for alternatives, or don't see something you think should be here, please let me know in the comments.
  • And in case you're wondering those PCB's are from the electronic devices I took apart in the last 6 months. I think I got around 1kg of components, not bad!
  • Lastly, if you are a beginner at soldering, I would actually recommend learning to desolder. It's way easier as you don't have to hold any parts steadily, don't have to worry about overheating the PCB or part, and you also get free components. It's great for practicing.


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I read ALL comments, and reply to as many as I can, so make sure to leave your questions, suggestions, tips, tricks, and any other ideas in the comments below! - Thanks!



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    2 Tips

    This 'ible is a great example on how to use humour if you are writing one of your own.

    I also use a heat gun purchased through Walmart. It has two settings for temperatures, and it is ideal for removing multiple pin chips, especially SMT. But it is dangerous for plastic bodied part such as sockets and connectors which can soften up, and when you pull these components after heating, the pins stay on the PCB.

    1 Questions

    Is there a guide available to list the various components that can be expected to be recovered from specific devices?

    A guide? Good question - not that I know of. I'm pretty sure I've taken apart every (common) device that has been made, so I might be able to provide a list of what i remember. The only thing I want to take apart and never have is a projector.

    I also made a series of Instructables on "What's Inside" electronic devices a while back, so I've made a few. I'm also planning on making a few videos on "What can you salvage from a ... ?"

    In general, I think if you're wondering if it's worth taking apart something, just google "what's inside a __(device)__" and look if there are any safety warnings, such as Beryllium in microwave magnetrons.

    Feel free to send me a private message with any questions about anything more specific :)


    Kudos Yonatan ! ! !

    That is a HORRIBLE Cheat by a supplier :-/

    chinese uCapacitors thiefry.jpg
    2 replies

    But it is an added layer of protection in case it explodes!

    I never thought of that..

    Really? An instructable about desoldering without reference to desoldering wick? Or soldersuckers? Or the fact that using a blow torch would immediately let out a whole range of cancer-causing fumes. Even if you're using a solder fume fan which you don't mention either. Sigh.

    2 replies

    what cancer causing fumes?

    As I have commented below this Instructable (and video) focuses more on how to get parts for free, fast and less on how to desolder without damaging the circuit board.

    After a quite a few components that I desoldered with the torch, it barely produced more smoke than what a soldering iron would have produced, and with it I don't think I ruined even one component. I've updated step 5 about using a fume extractor.

    OK. I've been at this a long time and have never tried using a torch to remove components, even from an already fried board! A lot of interesting tips here, so...good job! I actually appreciate the inclusion of the product links. There are new tools popping up all the time, and I like to compare. Wishing you much success, and thanks for another fun post.

    1 reply

    Also use a solder sucker. It's extremely useful and allows you to recover solder and melt it down in a solder pot. Protip: with some DIP ICs, you can desolder pins 2 at a time if you have a large solder sucker. Protip: Collect enough solder in your solder pot and you get bragging rights! Tell your friends you have more free solder in your solder pot then they do!

    1 reply

    I used to collect the solder, but I don't do anything with it. I haven't found a use for it, maybe a weight for a project.

    Desolder all throughhole ICs. It is one of my best sources of ICs. I would have never discovered the MC34063a if I hadn't desoldered it from a car phone charger that I found in a parking lot. I wear gloves. Not for protection against lead, but the iron itself. One time it slipped and did a barrel roll on my hand and I would have gotten seriously burned if not for my gloves. Gloves can protect your hand for an extremely short amount of time, but its better than having no protection at all.

    1 reply

    I have desoldered all of the LM7805 series that I was able to find, since I think they can be useful. But I've stopped desoldering the ones I don't know, which is 99% of the ones I see, since I don't know what they do, researching them takes a long time, I don't really have a way of organizing them, don't have a use for them ...And can usually get 10 of them for about a dollar on eBay.

    I used to get burnt a lot while soldering, now it's the usual "OW! What's that hot thing that landed on my foot?!" The tip I explained in the last step with keeping your hands dusty has saved me once (maybe twice) when I accidentally picked up the soldering iron from the HOT part. I Didn't get burnt at all, unlike a relative of mine that did that a few years ago, and hasn't picked a soldering iron since...

    Leather gloves are so thick so it's pretty hard to use them, but I bought some type of thinner, rubber coated glove that still hasn't arrived. I might use those.

    I've had to do a lot of de soldering as well with only a cheap iron. I would heat up the joint and while the it was still hot, I'd blow it off. Makes a mess but work well on the components with lots of solder. No success with the wicks. Have to try it with flux. My solder sucker works ok but can get cumbersome though. I like the heat gun idea. Have to give that a try sometime. Thanks for the tips.

    1 reply

    My solder sucker would get clogged quite often, and opening it up and cleaning it every time got kind of annoying.

    A few things that I might add here:

    1. Heat Gun. Your blow torch idea is good, but I find that a heat gun will also do the trick, and with a lot less smoke! Just invert the board so the components' weight encourages them to drop out of the board, mount the board in a holder, and apply the heat gun on the back. You can use a long-nosed plier to encourage parts that still won't drop out. Heat guns are cheap - in the US you can get one for around $10 at Harbor Freight.

    2. Solder Wick. It takes some practice, but you can do a good job with solder wick. Sometimes you have to add a little more solder to the joint to get it to work, and you definitely have to frequently move to another, clean, section of wick as you work. It's also good for cleaning up a PCB after removing a bad component that you intend to replace.

    3. Solder Sucker. These spring loaded suckers are great if you can't afford the cost or the space of a desoldering station. Just heat the joint, place the solder sucker over the melted solder and pull the trigger. Sometimes it helps to put the sucker tip around component lead on the back of the board, and then heat the lead of the component on the top side - when the solder flows, pull the trigger. It will suck the solder out of the hole.

    1 reply

    I don't have a heat gun, but I've wanted a heat gun, and then when I started using the torch I realized I don't need one. But I didn't think of the fact that I can actually control the temperature with a heat gun - and eliminate the smoke?

    It's easier for me to pull out the components, since many leads are bent slightly, and I want to keep the heat on the board for as short as possible. Thanks for the tips!

    I think the reason you often need to add solder in order to make the existing solder melt is not because of poor heat conduction so much as because what's already there is usually lead-free with a higher melting point. Your leaded solder alloys with the lead-free, helping it to melt.

    You should also mention solder wick (you need to use it with a flux pen to work well) and a solder sucker. I recently got a heated solder sucker which works brilliantly but some reviewers on Amazon found it failed fairly quickly, without saying what the problem was.

    3 replies

    I know lead-free solder has a higher melting point, and AFAIK I don't use leaded solder... You never know what you get when you buy stuff from eBay, but it looks like lead-free solder.

    I haven't had much success with a wick, the torch is way faster for desoldering components from old PCB's, and if I need to desolder a components from a PCB I don't want to not ruin, I prefer using a solder sucker.

    Is it something like this: I've never seen these before. Might have to get one and try it out.

    Yes, mine is very similar to that, differing only in one or two cosmetic details.

    For a scrap board, yes, a blow torch is probably much the easiest and quickest way but you might just have to be a little careful not to overheat things. With solder wick I find it's essential to use a flux pen such as this otherwise it doesn't work at all and you often have to add a little solder to get the existing solder to melt.

    I suspect the solder you got on eBay is actually leaded, but don't worry about it - I've been using it for around 60 years and the only harm it's done me is to cause me to become adicted to electronics!

    Look away for two seconds with that blowtorch and you'll have a nice amount of smoke to exhaust!

    But when using leaded solder, after it cools down, doesn't it become Because as soon as I switched to using solder I bought on eBay vs ~ 30 year-old solder that I had used previously, the "mirror" finish had stopped, and it was harder to melt the solder - it needs a higher temperature. I also started to get horrible nausea from the flux fumes, and I read online that's because lead free solder uses a more aggressive flux - attacking my lungs.