Let's get the legality out of the way, first and foremost.

The process of creating elongated coins is legal in the United States, almost all parts of Japan[citation needed], South Africa and parts of Europe. In the United States, U.S. Code Title 18, Chapter 17, Section 331 prohibits "the mutilation, diminution and falsification of United States coinage." The foregoing statute, however, does not prohibit the mutilation of coins, if the mutilated coins are not used fraudulently, i.e., with the intention of creating counterfeit coinage or profiting from the base metal (the pre-1982 copper U.S. cent which, as of 2010, is worth more than one cent in the United States).[7] Because elongated coins are made mainly as souvenirs, mutilation for this purpose is legal.

Thank you, Wikipedia. Nothing fraudulent going on here. Now, back to the fun.

Whether you want to invest a lot of time and materials, or create a simple project with only a few items, this Instructable will provide the how-to, you provide the creativity and a few supplies.

A basic, lightweight, dainty chime can be assembled and hung the same day. Grab a few handfuls of pennies, some fishing line, a stick, and a drill bit. The rest is up to you. Add beads, sparkling things, copper adornments, these are just a few ideas. Although the pennies do not have to be pressed, they do make a lovely sound. They can otherwise simply be drilled, and suspended.

Come along, and let’s have fun while making a quick treasure for the garden, front porch, deck, or window. Hang one from a limb of a tree in your back yard, front yard, or both. Make them as gifts. Start now, and by the time the holidays arrive, you'll have plenty to give away.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials and Tools

The Horizontal Piece
– Cost: free for the searching

You’ll need a stick, a length of bamboo, or other item to serve as the support for all of your wind chime strings. For this project, I chose a piece of driftwood, found lying on the shores of Lake Fort Gibson, Oklahoma.

Look for a piece that is long enough to hang pennies that, when spaced close together, will touch one another, resulting in a chime. Pennies hung too far apart will depend on a strong breeze to make noise, which may result in a tangled chime you may not have the patience to straighten.

Fishing line, or invisible thread – Cost: Low. Likely in your tackle box, or sewing kit

Provided you aren’t hanging hundreds of pennies on your chime, a simple roll of 10 pound test fishing line should suffice for stringing the pennies. A stronger line is advised for the hanging of the chime, as it will be supporting the entire weight of the chime.

Invisible thread may also be used, though be sure it is strong, and consider doubling it for the weight of the entire chime. A single strand should be fine for the strands of pennies. You could also use nylon-coated craft or beading wire.

Pennies, pennies, pennies! – Cost: 1 cent per penny. This project uses 45 pennies, thus 45 cents.

Whether you hand smash your coins, or use a press, any coins will do, but consider using pennies with higher copper content. Pennies minted in the years 1962 through 1982 are great for projects like these, as their copper content is 95%, with 5% zinc. Curious minds, you may want to visit Penny Collector's page for additional information on metal content in pennies.

Is smashing / pressing / squishing a penny legal? Yes - Penny Smashing Legality

Beads, baubles, and bling! – What is a project without a little sparkle? Perhaps you have junk jewelry, boxes of beads, or other trinkets lying around the house that would work wonderfully in this project. Glass, or even faceted plastic beads will work beautifully, as they will reflect sunlight.

TOOLS & other components of the project:

  • Necessary -

    If using a sledge hammer to press pennies, please wear ANSI-approved safety glasses.
    Look for safety glasses that feature the ANSI title

ANSI - The American National Standards Institute is a private non-profit organization that oversees the development of voluntary consensus standards for products, services, processes, systems, and personnel in the United States. (Thank you, Wikipedia)

Please be extremely careful when using tools. Just one small incident could cost your vision.
Be smart, be safe, and wear the right safety glasses.

  • Suggested - Electric drilling device such as a hand drill, or Dremel Rotary Tool

    Add the handy Work Station, and you'll be drilling with ease.
    This is the extra hand you've always wanted. I'm not kidding.

    Be certain to check the numbers on your rotary tool to be sure they are compatible with the drill press attachment.

    Drill bits for wood and metal. Consider the useful Drill Bit Set for use with a rotary tool.
    Measuring stick / tape, or ruler

Hand-held sledge hammer (about 10 pounds), anvil or other thick piece of steel

  • Helpful – Crimping pliers, crimping beads
  • Optional – paint brush (if urethane or polyurethane is used), copper cleanser

Step 2: Preserve the Wood

Approximate cost for an 8 ounce can of polyurethane: $6.98. Trust me, get the bigger can.
You'll want to make more chimes when you realize how fun and relaxing they are to make.

If your chime will be hanging outdoors, you may want to consider protecting the wood with a few coats of polyurethane. Wipe on, brush on, spray on, anything is better than nothing. I used Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Satin Polyurethane. Three thin coats later, the wood looks great, and should withstand the elements for a bit.
In extreme winds or weather, bring your chime indoors to prevent damage.

Special thanks and mention, to Instructables member ChrisH385 mentioned that using a SPAR urethane is a great choice for chimes that may remain outdoors. Thanks, Chris!

Using a soft cloth, a bristled brush, or a compressor nozzle with pressurized air if you have it, clean the wood, especially if it has been laying on a beach or other natural area. Once it is clean and dry, apply a thin coat of protective gloss or satin, and allow to thoroughly dry. Apply additional coats as desired, according to the instructions of the product you chose.

*Note* I have tried drilling the holes first, and then protecting the wood, but that just resulted in polyurethane plugging up the holes. Yes, I could have kept poking the holes out, but…

Step 3: Drill Holes in the Support Stick

Once the wood is completely dry, you'll need to drill holes along the wood at evenly-spaced intervals, according to the size of the penny (or other coin) of your choice.

*Note* If you are not going to smash, squish, or otherwise flatten your pennies, you’ll need to hang them close enough so they will strike one another during a breeze, which will produce a tinkling, or chime sound. Keep this in mind as you drill the holes.

Consider leaving a bit of space on each end of the chime, so the penny strands hang in the center-most of the wooden support. As the driftwood I chose happens to be 15 ½” long, I spaced the strands about ¾ of an inch apart, drilling a total of 17 holes, with a bit of space on each end to spare. (Basically, I drilled a hole every inch and a half, then drilled another hole between them.) The spacing of the strands takes into consideration the fact that the pennies I chose had been run over by a train, squishing them to various widths, larger than the typical width of 3/4”. Some of my squished pennies are over an inch wide!

Wearing proper safety glasses, drill holes along the support.
This is work made easy with a Dremel Rotary Tool

Step 4: Smashing or Pressing the Pennies

The pennies I chose for this project were actually pressed on a railroad track. Years ago, I would stop on my way to work at a set of railroad tracks in a very rural area, place a few pennies, and stop back by the tracks on the way home to see the result. Sure enough, the pennies were flat as could be, and sometimes were still laying on the track. After all these years in a drawer, I decided to put the pennies to work. As I am not suggesting you should obtain your pennies in the same manner, I'll provide an optional method of pressing them, further below.

But wait! For those of you with curious minds, just what does it take to smash a penny, anyhow?
We appreciate the answer to this question by username 'Chronos' from the Straight Dope Forum.

Using the work-energy theorem, with some back-of-the-envelope estimates:
An intact penny is just about 1 mm thick, and a flattened one is maybe a quarter of that. So we're applying a force over a distance of 7.5e-4 m. Using the figure of 22 tons for a penny-smasher (which is going to be comparable to that from a train car, since not all of the weight is on one wheel), we get about 220000 newtons for the force. That gives us a total energy of 220*7.5e-4 N*m, or 165 J. For comparison, this means that if the handle of the smasher moves about 8 m (that'd be four full rotations, with a handle about a third of a meter long), then the person turning the crank must exert a force of about 21 N (about 4.6 pounds), which isn't too unreasonable.

It gets better. If you're looking to be impressed with penny smashing, look no further than the amazing Instructable by member mblem - Building a Penny Crusher.

If you are lucky enough to live in, or visit Eureka Springs, you could always visit the Eureka Springs & North Arkansas Railway. We've taken the ride, and it is quite nice. The conductor will even allow you to place pennies on the tracks for pressing, after dinner aboard the train ride.

If you don’t have your own train and railroad tracks, you may have to smash the pennies by hand. This can be accomplished in a number of ways, such as a hammer, an anvil, and a bit of elbow grease, or perhaps a hydraulic press.

Though anvils are not as readily available these days, they are quite handy to have for do-it-yourself creative people. If you do not have an anvil, you'll need to strike the pennies on something somewhat comparable to an anvil, use a thick piece of flat steel.

Wearing ANSI-approved safety glasses, place the penny upon an anvil and strike it with a hammer or flat-topped, hand-held sledge hammer. Strike the penny one blow at a time, pausing between blows to ensure the penny stays put in one place, ready for the next strike. You'll need to smack the penny a good number of times, depending on your strength, the tool, and the size you wish the penny to be when you finish striking it.

In the images above, I have shown a penny that has been struck 25, then 50, 75, and 100 times to show you that it can be done. Perhaps not as elongated or shapely as those run over by a train, but nevertheless, functional, and they still ring just as lovely. Please note that the largest penny is not a high-copper content penny, which allowed it to be pressed flatter, as it is a softer metal.

Step 5: Polishing the Pennies (optional)

Pennies are, quite frankly, dirty little things, and as such, show it. If you prefer your pennies to be bright and shiny, you'll need to give them a bit of a bath before assembling the chime. If you've used pennies with a high copper content, a bit of abrasive cleanser should do the trick. Brasso, and other products marketed specifically for cleaning brass and copper will do as well.

Optional cleaning method (a.k.a. use what you have) is to soak the pennies in 1/2 cup of vinegar with one teaspoon of salt. It only takes a few moments to make them super shiny. Rinse, and pat dry.

Step 6: Optional / Alternate Pressed Pennies...

For a precious memento of your travels and adventures, consider using elongated pennies in your chime. An elongated penny is created when coins are inserted into a special mechanical press that will emboss an image and / or text into a coin. The machines can be found all across the United States, and all over the world, in places from amusement parks, to zoos, restaurants, events and attractions.

Typically, for the cost of fifty cents to use the machine, an extra coin is placed into a slot on the machine, and a hand crank is turned, which operates the press and embossing feature. Clink! Your newly embossed penny falls into a drop below, in elongated form. You could also purchase a number of elongated pennies on Ebay.

Step 7: Drilling Holes in the Pennies

If you have a Dremel High-Performance Rotary Tool with a drill press WorkStation attachment, this is the perfect project for it. If not, have no fear, a standard hand drill with a bit intended for metal / wood will work just fine, just remember to put these items on your wish list for Santa.

As with any do-it-yourself project involving tools, do be careful, and wear proper protective gear such as safety glasses.

Using a bit intended for wood and / metal, such as a Dremel 660 Drill Bit Set, Drill a small hole in the top and bottom of each penny, being mindful that you don’t place the drill bit too close to the edges. If you are not going to hang additional décor on the edge pennies, it is only necessary to double drill those which will support a penny beneath it. Use a metal file to remove any sharp burrs on the holes, to prevent the pennies from cutting the hanging string. You could also consider drilling the holes a little larger, then adding eyelets for a unique look, and added durability.

Step 8: Line ‘em Up!

Once you have drilled holes in all of the pennies, it will be of great help to lay them out in the same pattern you will use to attach them. Move them around to get a good idea of the look you desire. Will you place all of the large pennies at the top of the chime, the bottom? You decide.

To give you an idea of the placement and hanging pattern, see the second image provided. I've numbered the pennies according to the way they will hang. For example, note that penny number 9 on the top row will have four pennies hanging from, or below it.

You may want to hang the pennies according to the flow of the wood, altering the height so the pennies flow with the natural curves and waves of the wood.

Step 9: Attach Hanging String to the Support Stick

Remember to use a double strand of fishing line for the support if you do not have a second, stronger line. The hanging string will support the entire weight of the chime, so you’ll want it to be durable and strong.

Insert a length of string into one of the end holes on the top of the support stick. The length will depend on how far down you wish the chime to hang. You can always shorten it later by adding additional crimp beads, cutting off the excess string.

Once threaded through the stick, from the bottom side, thread a bead or other item that will not be able to be pulled back through the hole. Thread at least one, but preferably two crimping beads for security on the support. Using a pair of crimping pliers, press each crimp bead firmly to the fishing line. Snip off the extra string that is now sticking out of the end crimp bead. Don’t worry about the beads showing, they will not detract from the final look, and it gives perfectionists something to squirm about.

If you do not have crimping beads and tools, you can also simply tie knots to secure the bead in place.

Hint: Crimping Pliers (average $5.00, be sure to watch for local sale coupons) and crimp beads (about $2.99 for 70 2mm) are fabulous items to keep in your craft arsenal. Both items can be found at just about any craft store such as Michael's, Fire Mountain Gems, or even Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Store.

Step 10: Stringing the Pennies (A.K.A. the Fun Part)

There are no rules about stringing things on sticks, other than using secure knots. As I was winging my first project, I quickly realized little tricks and tidbits I’ll be glad to pass along. Don’t get frustrated. It is a very simple process, though it can be tedious working with delicately stringed things.

Take a deep breath, and proceed. Once you get going, and make progress, you’ll see how easy this really is.

Determine how far you want your first row of pennies to hang from the support stick. I generally use just a couple inches. Though we don’t want to be wasteful, it is better to allow for extra string. Go ahead and grab about a foot of string to get an idea of what will be needed. Insert the string into the first hole of the stick, from the top, the same hole that holds the support string. Place a bead that is larger than the hole, and a crimp bead, on the string sticking out of the top of the stick, not the string hanging down. Crimp. Repeat on the other side. You will now have two strings hanging from each side. It is easiest to assemble the chime when it is hanging from something at working height.

For those lucky enough to own a Dremel WorkStation, the arm intended for the cord is a perfect place to hang the chime while working on it.

Eyeball the height at which the pennies will hang, to ensure they do so evenly. As the daughter of perfectionist parents, I intentionally try to avoid such behavior. If you can’t resist, consider attaching the chime to a bulletin board, to make certain the pennies hang at a precise level.

Repeat the same procedure for pennies in the odd-numbered holes, keeping the hanging distance uniform, or be creative, altering the hanging distance. Remember, the second row, the even-numbered pennies, should hang slightly lower than the previous row, in order to cause contact, which produces a ring, or chime sound.

If you want a slightly easier way to assemble the chime, you can simply hang the string, and tie pennies along the same line. I prefer to cut the line at each penny, then tie it back to the bottom, and proceed.

It might help to secure a pretty bead with a crimp bead to a length of string, threaded through each odd-numbered hole to help you remember. It might also aid in making this a faster process. Add a penny to the left, the right, and then the left again, working your way toward the center, to keep the chime balanced, adding coins to the hanging strings as you go.

Step 11: Optional - Adding Beads and Baubles...

It is very easy to add sparkle to your wind chimes, with added beads and things.

Holding the end of a strand that has already been secured to the support bar, or previous penny, thread the string through a crimp bead, a small bead, a larger bead, and then another small bead, then thread through a penny. Now pass the end of the string right back through those same beads, coming up through the bottom hole of them. You will be left with a small tail sticking out of the top, which will be the crimp bead. Gently pull on the loose tail until the beads line up with the edge of the penny, but remember to leave just a tiny bit of room so the penny will swing freely, and not snug up tight.

Using a pair of crimping pliers, give the crimp bead a good squeeze. This will secure the beads, the penny, and the loose end. Snip off any excess tail on the string.

Passing the string back through the beads is also suggested for the attachment of the pennies, which allows for a neat and tidy way to add more strings, and more things.

Step 12: Pattern of the Pennies

Assuming you are using 45 pennies as shown in this Instructable, assemble the chime in the following fashion, adding decorative beads if desired.

Row one: Suspend a penny from each of the odd-numbered holes. (1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17)

Row two: Suspend a penny from each of the even-numbered holes (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16) so at least the top 1/3 of the pennies are even with approximately the bottom third of the pennies above it. The spacing will aid in creating the ringing sound. The measurement can vary, as long as the pennies touch at some point, and each row hangs lower than the previous row.

Row three: 3B, 5B, 7B, 9B, 11B, 13B, 15B. These pennies will be dangling from the first row of pennies, from the bottom hole drilled in them, less one on each side compared to the first row. In other words, as this is your third row, you will suspend a penny from the penny that would be referred to as penny #3 along the top of the stick.

Row four: 4B, 6B, 8B, 10B, 12B, 14B. These pennies will be dangling from the second row of pennies, from the bottom hole on them, less one on each side compared to the second row.

Row five: 5C, 7C, 9C, 11C, 13C

Row six: 6C, 8C, 10C, 12C

Row seven: 7D, 9D, 11D

Row eight: 8D, 10D

Row nine: 9E - I like to use the largest penny as the bottom center. On a bell, this is called a clapper.

Step 13: Rows 3 Through 9...slowly, But Surely

Although each additional row hangs slightly below, from the photos, it is sometimes difficult to tell how many rows are complete but if you follow the image from step 7 or 11, you'll know where you left off, and can finish easily without confusion.

Keep adding pennies until you reach the very bottom, which in a 45-penny chime, is the final, or ninth row.

Step 14: Final Step - Finishing Up...

Once the chime is completely assembled, snip all extra string ends, and gently run your fingers through the pennies. A rather delicate, lovely sound for material that was previously tossed into fountains and dropped at drive-through windows.

If you drilled holes in the top and bottom of every penny, you’ll see that the pennies on the outside of the chime have an empty hole. There is a method to my madness. Now you can suspend a little dainty from each penny. I like to add a spiral of copper wire, or a jump ring with a pretty bead. Nothing too heavy, as you won’t want to weigh the pennies down too much.

Be creative, experiment. You may prefer to simply string pennies without the addition of beading, which is fine, and will create a lovely chime all by itself. In case you missed it in the intro, to listen to the sound of my 45-penny chime, Click here!

Nothing says you must make your chime exactly as I have, so the chime is open to your own creativity. Make one bigger. Smaller. Longer. All the same length. Odd lengths. Have fun!

I hope you have enjoyed this process, and now that you have one under your belt, you may find yourself consumed with wanting to make yet another. Please do, and share a picture of your chimes with the Instructable community.

Thank you so much for taking the time to view my Instructable.
If you liked it, I would truly appreciate your vote in the Backyard Contest.

<p>Thanks for the legal reference :)</p>
<p>I love it! I just have one suggestion for the cord. I'v fixed many using beading wire (multi-stranded) with crimp beads and they last a lot longer. Supper job!</p>
Hi Carol, I'm so sorry, I overlooked your message until now. Thank you so much for your suggestion. :-)
No worries, late is better than never! ;-)
<p>Very nice instructable. As one who enjoys the beauty of simplicity and not a lot of distraction, I think mine will be without the beads and embellishments. Now to just find some driftwood...</p>
<p>Hello Guinaevere, thank you so much! I hope you find some driftwood, and you are able to make a wonderful chime. :-)<br></p>
It is illegal to destroy currency. Doesn't that just seem like it's something you shouldn't do?
<p>In the U.S., it's only illegal to modify currency to make it into something that passes for another denomination. In other words, changing a $1 bill to appear to be a $20 bill and passing it off as a $20 bill. Other than that, you can just go nuts squishing coins, making rings out of them, drawing on paper currency, etc.</p>
<p>You mean like dipping old UK pennies in mercury to pass them off as half crowns?</p><p>Have to do some sums here - half a crown was two shiilings and sixpence, so that's 24 + 6 = 30d, which was a lot of money back then. Instant 29d profit.</p><p>I chucked a whole load of old pennies the other day, kept a few, should have waited for this instructy.</p>
<p>Hello Phil, chucked them? As in, tossed them to the wind? :-) </p>
<p>No - binned 'em</p><p>As this stuff goes to landfill - I know, I <br>should have recycled it - someone in centuries to come will have the <br>pleasure of finding some Edwardian and Victorian copper pennies.</p><p>I<br> had quite a few of the &quot;old&quot; coinage and you only need so many to look <br>at, that the worn and pretty much valueless ones had to go.</p><p>Their discovery value will be much more than the copper value so I will sleep easy.</p><p>Come<br> to think of it, the other type of chucking would have been more <br>satisfying. There is a section of UK football fans who like to take out <br>the opposition goalie by chucking coins and apart from crowns and half <br>crowns, the old penny had a bit of weight behind it.</p><p>The Royal <br>Mint used to be quite sniffy about defacing coinage and tearing up <br>notes, but I think you would have to go back a few centuries to find the<br> last hanging. Knicking (cutting) bits out of silver coins used to be <br>popular with the riff-raff.</p>
<p>Thank you, Schuylergrace! :-)</p>
<p>It isn't illegal.</p><p>Here's a cut an paste from the US Treasury's website.</p>Is it illegal to damage or deface coins?<p>Section 331 of Title 18 of the United States code provides criminal penalties for anyone who &ldquo;fraudulently alters, defaces, mutilates impairs, diminishes, falsifies, scales, or lightens any of the coins coined at the Mints of the United States.&rdquo; This statute means that you may be violating the law if you change the appearance of the coin and fraudulently represent it to be other than the altered coin that it is. As a matter of policy, the U.S. Mint does not promote coloring, plating or altering U.S. coinage: however, there are no sanctions against such activity absent fraudulent intent. </p>
I don't know how you don't consider this mutilating. The coins are now destroyed, unusable and the physical medium is now out of check with accounting. It's illegal.
<p>GTO, while I appreciate your concern, the key words in the law regards 'fraudulent intent'. There is no intent to harm anyone, nor gain from altering the pennies. One obviously can no longer use the coins as currency. <br><br>Think of all the amusement parks with penny squishing (elongating) coin machines. If these were illegal, Disneyland, Six Flags, and every place that has a machine would be in court, including the people that owned the pennies. :-) No harm intended = not illegal. </p>
<p>Thank you, Skylane. :-)<br><br></p>
<p>If it was illegal, I do rest easy with one thought, that Disneyland would sitting in the slammer next to me. ;-)</p>
<p>Due to this being outdoors, I would recommend using SPAR urethane which is rated for just that. I have gotten even paper mache' to resist rain with SPAR. Anyone at the store can point it out to you.</p>
<p>Hello, Chris, I truly appreciate your comment. I'm always afraid to leave something outdoors in harsh weather, but SPAR would definitely put my mind at ease. Thank you so much for posting. :-)</p>
<p>What size drill bit did you use. I've tried to drill pennies with a 1mm bit and they broke!</p>
<p>Hello, Carol, </p><p>The pennies broke, or the bit? :-(<br><br>A 1 mm bit is roughly 0.0393701 <br>inch, which is pretty tiny. Although the hole does not need to be very <br>large, it is better to go a bit bigger in order not to ruin your tiny <br>bits. <br><br>You'll have to drill slowly, no matter which bit you use. <br>It also helped that I used a Workstation, which turned my Dremel into a <br>drill press. Though a 1/32&quot; bit is what I think I used, it is overkill, but doesn't hurt anything. I chose it, because it was available in a length that was long enough to drill through the driftwood I used for the hanger. <br><br>:-)</p>
<p>Thank you for the reply! Alas, it was the bit that broke )-; I was trying to make earrings out of them. I'll try a larger bit next time. I also used someone else's drill press(no longer available). I wish I had a place to set up my own...</p>
<p>seems like a great use of my smashed penny collection instead of sitting in the little albums made for them!</p>
<p>Hi, Brusa, I've been thinking the same about my collection. No one asks to see it, but if it was on a chime they had to walk by, it might serve as not only entertainment, but as a conversation piece, as well. :-)</p>
<p>Yea, I'm getting mine out of those albums...I'm thinking dremel in the drill press attachment and start drillin'!</p>
<p>I thought that defacing federal currency was a federal offence. I know we used to put pennies on railway tracks as kids and it was an offence back, way back then. In the early 50s.</p>
<p>Wow, I've thought about this day after day since I have moved to a town with a train&hellip;I go over the racks 2-4 times a day and I think I might try to place some on the rails to see how they look, or, tape some down&hellip;which might lead to total disintegration. Might have to throw a nickel in there too. Thanks for a fun project, very clearly written and illustrated.</p>
<p>Hello Chefspenser, thank you so much for your post. Just be extremely careful, please. I once placed a few keys on the tracks, but they ended up looking like blobs, and sounding terrible. Lucky you to be around the tracks that often. Hope you have fun! :-)</p>
<p>i wonder if you could use different coins for different tones.</p>
<p>Hello Leo, that is a great idea. While I do know that silver coins will give a delightful ring, I'm not sure if you meant a specific note. Although more difficult to achieve, that would be wonderful. I tend to save a lot of coins, but somehow, never managed to save any silver ones. :-)</p>
<p>This is pretty neat. I wonder what might work well in addition to pennies, as I don't see myself being able to press all these! Maybe seashells?</p>
<p>I found lots (meaning more than one lot) of 10, 25, 50,100 or more elongated stamped pennies on Ebay, very reasonable. Some from all parts of the country, some all Disney or all zoos, west coast, etc. I think they will be a nice touch, I'm ordering mine today! About $20 for 100 with shipping. BTW, a pressing mill is over $200!! Good luck!</p>
<p>Great score on the elongated pennies! A lot is a great way to get a lot of new coins, and have plenty of likely duplicates for trading or selling. Congrats!</p>
<p>Oh, yes, seashells would be very pretty, and delicate, too! Lovely!</p>
<p>I like your video - it sounds great in the wind.</p><p>Some 1982s are zinc. Stick to ones before '82 to guarantee copper. The zinc will decay over time and outside it may not take very long.</p><p>Another thing people may want to watch out for, although highly unlikely: Check if you are using wheat cents that its not a rare one. Numismedia.com and the collectors guide is an online source that will allow people to know the rare ones by the values listed.</p><p>Trivia - most people know of the 1943 &quot;steel&quot; cents - but not a lot of people know some of the 44s and 45s were made from recycled shell casings from the war.</p>
<p>Thank you for your interesting comment! I love when people provide trivia, and I did not know that about the 44s and 45s. Recently, I sorted through almost one thousand dollars worth of change, and found a mere nine wheaties, so it looks like at least some folks are keeping them. ;-)<br><br>I completely forgot to mention the PING test, too! On the note of the 1982 pennies, though I'm used to them and can often sort by sight, dropping them onto a countertop covered in Formica will reveal quite the difference in ring. <br><br>Many thanks for your comment and compliment. I appreciate it!</p>
<p>You could do time in the Tower of London for bashing UK coins - it's called defacing the coinage of the Realm,</p><p>UK coins up to 2p value used to be copper based, but the tightwads changed them to copper plated steel some years ago, as detected by magnet.</p><p>Now they're worth less than washers, which is what they came in handy for.</p><p>As a kid, the copper coins used to go the on railway line which was a quick but dodgy way of flattening them, just get out of the way of the train.</p>
<p>What a neat bit of information about London. Thank you, Phil! Love the idea of using them for washers, LOL. </p>
What a well organized, detailed instructable. Very clear and inclusive. I like the way you explained how to determine the size drill bit instead of just calling out a size<br>This is a lot of detail, but it is so nice to have more information than less. Often I wonder about some of the chosen materials and you explain why you chose and even the thinking into ordering the project<br>Good work!<br><br>And<br>I am inspired to go smash some pennies
<p>David, <br><br>Having been told that I talk too much most of my life, it is encouraging to receive a compliment on my habit of overdoing the word count. Ha! <br><br>Thank you so much! I truly hope you will smash some pennies, and perhaps make something with them. :-) </p>
<p>I wonder if anyone has thought about how annoying wind chimes are to neighbors. </p>
Really? Really? If that's the case why did you even spend time looking at this great idea?
Well I didn't read the idea since it's not a new idea. Has been done over and over. Just saw the picture and headline. <br><br>I've actually made some chimes in my life. Some that were quite melodious. My neighbors to the person did not like them after a few days. They used the word annoying. <br><br>
<p>Your neighbors would really hated my wind chimes which were made from the valve end of various sized gas cylinders. They were hung on the side of a steep hill and worked best in a strong wind. You could tell the force of the wind by which bells were sounding.</p><p>You can save a lot of pounding by using a railroad track to flatten your cymbals for the article's chimes.</p>
<p>Wow, those sound really cool! For those of us living in the country, those would be perfect chimes! </p>
<p>I didn't propose this was a new idea, just a fun one to create and share with others in hopes to inspire them to make something themselves. <br></p>
<p>Thank you, Jeff. :-) </p>
<p>If our neighbors can hear a few tingling pennies on the porch, they are too close. </p>
<p>Beautiful </p>
<p>Hello Karen, nice name! (mine, too!) Thank you so much. :-)</p>

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Bio: Let's skip the pretentious titles. At present, I am a paper pusher for a manufacturing plant. In the remainder of my life, I am ... More »
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