Step 4: Schematic

Chevy Pictorial Schematic

<p>Nice project. Have you ever measured the current drawn by the arc? Or measured the arc current over time? I would be rather interested in that infomation. Thanks :)<br><br>AN observation. Page 22 of your ebook High Current side wiring. <br><br>Disconnect the wire from the contactor to the C on the bridge rectifier at point C. Then connect it to the center of the two reservoir capacitors.</p><p>Remove the wire from the center of the capacitors to C.</p><p>This modification takes the circuit to a classic voltage doubler.</p>
<p>google the ESAB HANDY PLASMA 125 manual it has more of the ignition arc circuit diagram on it than others that I have seen. I love the brilliant simplicity of your solutions. From a safety point of view a bleeder resistor on the two capacitors to bleed the High Voltage capacitors. Say 5K 15 watt</p>
<p>excuse my ignorance, that serves the water heater element</p>
<p>Sorry you have a great instructable but I still have a few questions. For example why do you have a large heating resistor, what purpose does it serve? Also whats the voltage for starting the arc, and what voltage are you using to sustain it? Also why do you have capacitors what is it they help with? I'm sorry if these are basic questions I just don't understand all the theory for how to design a cutter.</p>
<p>Using a portable plasma cutting machine, it is easy to install, and very cheap.</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkVvZyybWXQ</p>
<p>Why do you put arc tip to the torch on outside and not to + work clamp?</p>
<p>I have one side to tip and other is connected to clamp inside</p>
<p>any thoughts on modifying a stock DC inverter welder like a cheap Harbor freight to function as a plasma cutter?</p><p>Nice instructable</p>
<p>If the voltages are the same as regular welder it wont work, need higher voltages.</p><p>If they are at least 300 coming out it will.</p>
<p>No reason go for it.</p><p>The idea is to use what you can afford and find,</p>
<p>any reason not to use a simple furnace oil burner module for the arc start? I think it would be more reliable and cheaper </p>
This is so helpful, Sir, thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge. My buddy and I are in the collecting parts phase, and this is already very helpful. Thanks again! <br><br>PS: I'm sure I'll be back with questions at some point, hope you don't mind!
<p>Hello,</p><p>please, have you some plans of Plasanator (5)? I need something with little more cutting power. </p>
<p>im working on but soon.</p>
<p>Is it possible to use two 6kW heating elements with 230V?</p>
<p>should work fine.</p>
<p>Still working on them want them to be perfect for this will be my last version.</p>
<p>this is awesome, im a little hung on the ins n outs as of right now but i will research as you did , i reckon i will need a different circuit as we use a higher voltage in england. good work for pioneering for us all and sharing that :D </p>
<p>what voltage do you use? if its 220or 240 it will work great.</p>
<p>YOU ROCK! (Or cut )with style! This is great, gotta a extra one of you? Anyway thanks for this inspiration, I'm not smart enough to create this, but I love that other hard working people are!</p>
<p>Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't something like this work? T1-3 are microwave oven transformers. If we wind these for 200v each, the rectification should push the voltage to almost 300v to charge the caps. C2 dumps through T4 to ignite plasma and C1 can then discharge through the plasma. I would imagine with 3000uf, it should maintain continuos discharge with 15 amps even if only 60hz. I used 3 ac mains so that no breakers blow. The air flow and fan could be easily incorporated into the schematic I just didn't find any symbols for them.</p><p>What do you guys think?</p>
<p>Sorry I mean to say the total voltage output is 200v from the transformers not 200v each. I'm really tired right now :O</p>
<p>this pic should've been fist page not third or forth in line.</p>
After all of this man's hard work, that's what you get out of this? Please, for your own sake, don't try building this lmao
great job,, where can i salvage the high voltage bridge rectifier. i can't seem to find anything that uses one that can handle this much voltage,,other than just buying a new one, thx
<p>eBay has them for about 16 bucks.</p>
<p>Great project. I am in the works of constructing my own working from your design. I have two questions. Is the isolation transformer necessary? Also, what are you using for your compressed air source? Just an air compressor? Thanks in advance! </p>
I don't use one since all is shut down by gun trigger never had a problem or safety issue.<br>I just use a regular air compressor bigger the better if you have a lot of cutting to do air last longer and I use a 50 gallon hot water tank made in to an air tank secondary.
<p>Great thanks. Sorry I have one more question I forgot to ask. When you turn the unit on, does it blow the breaker while the capacitors are charging up? Seems like they would pull a looot of current to charge being so big and all. If so how do you work around that problem?</p>
<p>I have never had that problem.</p><p>Make sure you have a 30 amp breaker for 120 and at least a 50 amp for 220 use.</p><p>Also make sure the 120 power that comes out of your relays is not connected to the other side of ac connection.</p><p>Follow the yellow that goes to the two joined relays and comes out blue to high voltage set up and to air solenoid .</p>
<p>Is is possible to make a 1A plasma cutter? I need to cut very thin pieces of 304, but because of the geometry and composition of the parts I am currently stuck chemically etching the material away.</p>
I wouldn't think so and plasma cutting would leave spray all over pcb board.<br>I recommend using A laser or Drexel tool.
<p>i cant understand why you connect the caps at this strange way. after the bridge you have a plus and a minus full rectified source. so the caps should take this dc voltage. <br>why do you connect the caps back to the AC line?</p>
It forms a voltage doubler circuit.
<p>Can this cut aluminum and stainless sheets?</p>
Yes it can and does very well.
<p>What is the water heater element for ? Don't see it anywhere in these pictures.</p>
<p>Hey all just solder a wire to the hv coil instead of zip tying it and cover solder with silicone of any kind.</p>
If i am putting 240v to the contactor does that mean I'm putting 240v to the air solenoid? I am also reading 650v on the dc side of the rectifier. I am replacing both of these parts (fried the 110v solenoid).<br>Thank you.
<p>No then you have it hooked up wrong.</p><p>The air solenoid goes before the contactor on the input side through a relay.</p>
Sorry, I also forgot to ask...it might be hard to find a ford / chevy ignition coil out here, so is there anything specific I should look for when I pick one out, or any minimum specs needed? Also, is there any purpose to mounting the stud on the ignition coil, other than as a place to attach the connections? And what does the water heater element specifically do?
<p>its a dump load. instead of a large amount of copper or aluminum. he went with that tho it needs a bigger heat sink tho.</p>
here are some picures of one I done a few months ago.
Yes the studd is just for mounting purposes but instead go ahead and solder a lead to coil and fill around it with silicone for protection. <br>I do that now for all my cutters. <br>The element is your load resister and is what draws and dictates the amount of current used. <br>Two in parallel will draw more current for cutting thicker material. <br>My new unit I used some square tubing from treadmill and a blower also from a microwave to cool coils down to last longer.
<p>If you were building one that was 40A, what would you use to control the output amperage while cutting? I was thinking about a solid state voltage regulator like this one: </p><p><a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=353" rel="nofollow">http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=produc...</a></p><p>Thoughts?</p><p>Thanks,</p><p>Keith</p>
<p>I don't build them that big so I can't say, sorry.</p>
<p>(Please correct me if im wrong)</p><p>i was wondering if your build is using a frequency from your instructions i dont see anything that would generate a frequency other than starting arc. the reason im asking is i have a wire feed welder that im going to add the plasma cutting feature to it and use both welder and cutter. the welder is set up to use ac only witch i can convert to dc by using your instruction and the add a separate hook up for the plasma cutter but in order to for the welder to work it needs to have some sort of freq..</p><p>From my under standing a plasma cutter operates at 10khz or more how is yours working with converting it to dc it should be a pulsing dc at 60 HZ + or - and you add the CAPS in there witch would add a smoothing affect to the frequencies and bring it down to almost nothing.</p><p>Thank you</p>
<p>no just 60 hz</p>
Plasanator, <br>Thanks for all the time and effort put into this. Great job! <br>Any thoughts on using a 208V/208V transformer from a UPS system and 2 heating elements? I figure this will give me 24A at 208V at the torch and may be able to cut 1/2&quot; steel. <br>Thanks, <br>Keith

About This Instructable


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Bio: Hi I'm Joe and welcome. I love to make Homemade Tools & More. I will have many things to put on the instructables for you ... More »
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