I built my Laundry Water Recycler (LWR) over a year ago for a cost of about $60, and since then my household has saved four or five thousands gallons of water. You might be concerned that washing with the rinse water could discolor your clothes, but we have not encountered that problem.
This device is intended to work with older top-loading washing machines, where it saves about 20 gallons per load on average. Newer front loaders already use much less water, and, according to this article, they don't have a distinct rinse cycle anyway. Clearly, front-loading washing machines use less water than even a top-loader with the LWR, and the use less energy too. However, in comparing the two, you also need to factor in the energy it takes to manufacture a new washing machine. If you keep your top-loader for a while, then that manufacturing energy is not consumed yet. Anyway, enough green theory, onto the LWR!
The image below shows the LWR. At the bottom of the image is the top of our washing machine. Just above the left side of the machine is the washer outlet hose, which splits into two branches, each with its own ball valve. In this photo, the left ball valve is open, so the water leaving the washing machine will be pumped into the drain pipe at the top of the photo. The valve on the right leads to the storage tank, a 32 gallon plastic trash can, which is suspended from the ceiling on a hanging platform. An outlet at the bottom of the tank has a hose connected to it and this is used to introduce water into the washing machine at the beginning of a washing cycle.
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1. The previous owner of my house created a basement and arranged the washing machine as it is, with the 7 foot vertical distance for pumping. While I agree that this is not ideal, the washing machine has always worked just fine under these conditions. Perhaps the pump is forced to work harder and uses more energy, but it does work and was in place before I added the gray water system. More importantly, as I state in the instructable, most houses don't have their washers in this configuration and would therefore not face this issue. In fact, I think most houses with the washer above garden level could create this system with no auxiliary pump.
2. Thanks for the clarification on how the Sudsaver machine worked.
3. We don't use fabric softener in my household (I don't think you would want to feed that to plants), but I will add a warning in the instructable to not use it in this system (same goes for chlorine bleach, powdered detergents etc.). There are other web pages that get into what laundry products you can and can't water plants with. All that said, I think the rinse water is a lot cleaner. The wash water has all of the dirt from the previous load suspended in it (good for plants, however). Bottom line - we are satisfied with the way our laundry comes out.
4. As a clearly state in the instructable, we have been using this system for a long time. That complaint has never come up.
5. The can can easily be cleaned - just take it down when it's empty. There is an accumulation of lint inside the can and I really should add a lint filter, but I haven't done so yet. I also state in the instructable that I should put in an overflow system and I recommend that anyone who makes this project do so as well. I just haven't gotten around to it. In over a year of operation I think we've had two or three overflows, and none very recently.
6. Read my introduction. Not everyone is ready to (or should) immediately buy a front loader, but eventually we should all get them.
7. Agreed - see my other instructable (http://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Your-Garden-with-Gray-Laundry-Water). We now only use the tank during the rainy season, when watering the garden is unnecessary.
Could you have and overflow the same height as the hose tip as in my rudimentary and crappy drawing. Then just pull hose down to start. No valve needed
Sears Kenmore had that option called Suds in the PreSoak Cycle.