But then you ask, doesn't this defeat the whole purpose of a servo? Well, no. We just utilize the gearbox, so that we can use this motor as a drive motor for a robot. So now, let's really get started!
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Signing UpStep 1: Ingredients:
- Rotary tool or a utility knife
- Very small screwdriver (phillips)
- Soldering pencil* and solder
- Wire snips
- Needle noes pliers
- 2x 2.2k resistors
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Helping Hands (AKA 3rd hand) BTW check out this awesome instructable on making helping hands. Thanks rstraugh!
&
- 10 minutes







































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Yep - I used a homebrew servo tester set at 1.5ms and tweaked the pot to mid way until the motor was stationary, then added a small drop of epoxy left and right of the slider contact point.
I came up with the idea after failing to fit resistors into a TowerPro 5g servo.
Some types are amenable to rounding out the final drive gear hole, some aren't.
It's got potentiometer and push button switch on the inputs, LED, beeper and 3-pin servo connector on the outputs. One mode allows you to set max and min endpoints for the servo travel and then sweeps between them to let you see servo speed. The other mode gives 20 steps each side of the midpoint to test response of modified servos.
Further to what Electricloser says, this method has the advantage that you can control the speed of the motor by using the standard servo control signal. Mid-point (nominally 150) is stationary. Less than that and the servo will drive in one direction; greater than that it will turn in the other.
The greater the difference between the control signal and the mid-point value, the faster the motor will run because of the acceleration gradient set by the control circuitry.
Different manufacturers / models will give a differing number of speed steps and from my experience, digital servos give a greater number than analogue ones. (The best I've had was about 15 each way.)
I'm not familiar with the Arduino servo library but as long as you can set the pulse-width from it, you can control the speed of servos modified in this way.
The raw code of the servo library (the included Servo.h), does about the same, mapping the 0 to 179 to the ###-Hz pulse out to the servo. (If you've ever tinkered with the Parallax Basic Stamp, their code directly pulses the driving pin from the MCU out to the servo at the exact #-Hz)..
I've converted Futaba S3004's to continuous rotation, because the cheaper Futba servos Parallax uses for their BOE-Bot, had managed to wear out the motor (the Electric motor inside) bearings. Nothing makes you cringe worse, than hearing a servo motor sqealing. ARGH!
Yes, when soldering to the tiny circuit board, you want to be very careful and not to overheat the board or even worse burn the ICs.
I was intending to put up a video, but my soldering gun wasn't really cooperating at the time. Since I'm doing this to one more of my servos, I'll go ahead and record my soldering. I'll put it in step 3.
I also want to give you the links to my favorite instructables on soldering.
Noahw and his amazing instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
&
if you're still having trouble, check out this instructable by curiousinventor
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Solder-Videos%3a-Why-is-soldering-difficult-s/
Hope this helps!
~electricloser