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Motorcycles are a lot of fun. They can also make for cheap and convenient transportation. I will try to describe a few easy steps to revive (salvage) most old motorcycles. You would not believe how many motorcycles are ridden for 5-10 years and then just parked in a shed or barn to rust. In my experience, I've been able to save about 80% of the old bikes I get, with about $25-$75 in parts and 3-6 hours of work. I've been given several old bikes because someone just wanted them out of the way. I've bought others for less than $250, and ridden them thousands of miles. Hopefully this instructable will give you the information you need to do the same.
NEW NOTE: The response to this instructable has been really good. I hope to do another one related to slightly more advanced/unusual issues related to saving old 2-wheelers. I've had a lot of good suggestions (Tires, exhaust,points, etc.) that I hope to include next go round. Thanks for your enthusiasm and your continued patience!!!
NEW NOTE: The response to this instructable has been really good. I hope to do another one related to slightly more advanced/unusual issues related to saving old 2-wheelers. I've had a lot of good suggestions (Tires, exhaust,points, etc.) that I hope to include next go round. Thanks for your enthusiasm and your continued patience!!!
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Signing UpStep 1Choosing Your Bike : Better Safe than Sorry!
First of all, any free bike is a good bike, even if you just use it for parts. When it comes to actually buying a fixer-upper, you need to check a few things before you lay your money down. The three things (put simply) that a bike needs to run are fuel, fire and compression. These suggestions are for when you purchase a non-running machine.
1. Is it all there? Many broken parts can be repaired easily and cheaply, but missing parts must (usually) be replaced. Pay special attention to gauges, side covers, carbs, sprockets, and brakes. Lots of these parts "walk away" while a bike is lying around unused.
2. Is the engine seized? A seized engine may or may not be a big deal. If you buy one with a seized engine, only pay scrap prices as the engine MAY (or may not) be ruined. I'll show in a later "Ible" how to deal with a seized engine.
3. Can you shift through the gears? Transmission work is no small undertaking (but not impossible) for the newbie!
4. Does it have compression? If you can kick it over (or crank it), check for compression.
5. Consider buying a semi-classic, as these machines are easiest to deal with when searching for replacement parts.
1. Is it all there? Many broken parts can be repaired easily and cheaply, but missing parts must (usually) be replaced. Pay special attention to gauges, side covers, carbs, sprockets, and brakes. Lots of these parts "walk away" while a bike is lying around unused.
2. Is the engine seized? A seized engine may or may not be a big deal. If you buy one with a seized engine, only pay scrap prices as the engine MAY (or may not) be ruined. I'll show in a later "Ible" how to deal with a seized engine.
3. Can you shift through the gears? Transmission work is no small undertaking (but not impossible) for the newbie!
4. Does it have compression? If you can kick it over (or crank it), check for compression.
5. Consider buying a semi-classic, as these machines are easiest to deal with when searching for replacement parts.
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For vacuum pump I usualy use a syringe. Works great and it's cheap :)
When doing this, also check the spark plug cable derived from the coil. Often, connection isn't so free at this point. What I'do: unscrew plug from its house, cut the outer skin of plug cable about 2-3cm. Roll up the bones, make them neat and clean. Put it back on. Check if it fires again (kick start it) and connect it to (-) ground.
Do you know, or do you know if there is anything in here about a seized engine, or have you done the "ible" on a seized motorcycle engine?
Thank you,
Jesse M.
Is it recommended for a person with no expertise whatsoever in bikes to take care for it?
Take care.
Kevan
One tip with those GT models. Replace the swinging arm bushes. They are only made fo a substance called Tufnell and are dead easy to replace, no presses needed. Make sure the rear shocks are good and replace the fork oil. All fairly cheap but potentially life saving little jobs as they improve the handling no end.
Take care and ride safe.
Kevan
Is fuel flowing out of the lines going into the carbs if you detach them and turn the gas on at the tank?
What did you do to clean the carbs? Did you clean all the jets and blow out the idle circuits with compressed air or carb cleaner?
If all else fails, try new plugs.
Doing it by ear/feel is difficult.
-Make sure all cylinders are hitting.
-With airbox off, and engine running, try to determine if each carb is drawing a similar amount of air. You may have to get creative here.
-If it has good power, and all cylinders are firing, then you go through a series of in-and-out tests with good spark plugs.
- If you can get the bike to run well, place four clean plugs in. run for 2 minutes and check. IF ALL THE PLUGS ARE THE SAME COLOUR, AND NOT SOOTY OR OILY, then it's probably as close as you can get without the right equipment. CHeck periodically to make sure one or more is not running rich/lean.
- If one (or more) plug is fouled/sooty/etc, then adjust the MIXTURE (usually not the idle) to the corresponding carb.
PS- Get a good diagram to tell you how to read your plug conditions.
Sounds like an air leak. Might also be a fuel supply issue. Don't forget, tight new rings might even give you probs until they are broken in.