What this hut has as a raw model is the hut that our Swedish indigenous people called Sami, have built and used for many centuries.
This type of building is/was also (to some degree) used by the Inuit, Aleut and Yupik peoples.
As i made it from reprocessed wood from torned down houses and other buildings this is a totaly green project.
Tools/materials you need is a hammer, saw, knife, drill, spirit level, nails, tarpaper, wood and alot of patience!
As a non American/English i use the metric system, so i had to use an online converter to be able to present the messurements in inches.
So please dont mock me for my English as i am from Sweden.
Step 1: Step One:
I did that with bigger stones placed at the outer rim as a stop for the smaller stones/gravels (30 millimeters in size).
This ground made of gravel/stones is also important because the need of drainage.
Heavy rains will now float under the gravelbed and not make your feet wet.
The bottom frame that the hut is going to stand on, is made of 8 pieces of 2 by 6 inch pressure treated beams with both ends cut at 22,5 degrees angle.
You nail them together to the shape of the octagon you see in the pic.
The length of all 8 bottom frame pieces is 2.0 meters (78.74 inches), messured from the both outer edges of the 22.5 degree angle cuts (see drawing).
On these 8 beams you will have to mitre a angle at the outside edges to get a nice fit for the sheathing that you will mount in step 5.
I did this by hand with a knife, but you can offcourse use a handheld planer to do the job.
The length of all 8 beams is 4.70 meters (185.04 inches), messured from the inner edge of the first 27 degree angle cut, to the outer edge of the second 27 degree angle cut (see drawing).
In the next step you will make the top frame that you will connect the 8 elevationbeams to.
You make the topframe by nailing 8 pieces of 2 by 4 inch beams together.
The length of all 8 pieces is 36.3 cm (14.29 inches) messured from the outer edges of the 22,5 degree angles (see drawing).
This is also the time to make one more of this topframe and cover it with some board, because this will later be mounted at the top, making the smoking lid.
The reason that it is only 7 pieces (and not 8) is that you have to leave one opening for the door.
The length of this 7 pieces is 4,63 meters (182.28 inches), messured from the inner edge of the first 24,5 degree angle cut, to the outer edge of the second 24,5 degree angle cut (see drawing).
This is the fun part, but tidious, if you like me using small and thin pieces of wood.
Here you can use whatever dimensions u have.
As you can see i decided to put the door invards the hut to shield it from hard weather.
I choosed to cover the hut with tarpaper because its easy and cheap, or you can paint the hut directly with tar if you want, but it is a messy project to do that....
You can see that i have nailed some ribbons over the tarpaper that this summer will be used to mount some (i have not decided what type yet) outer panel on.
That ugly monster you see in the last pic is an experiment to see if the arrangement could store some heat for the night (you make the fire around it), it works, but i will later on test an idea that makes use of self circulating water from an accumulator tank and radiators under the lavas (where you sit and sleep) .
Another very important thing to do is to install air intakes at the bottom sides of the the doorframe to feed the fire and to get air to the inhabitants of the hut, and to drill 3-4 pieces of 1/2 to 1 inch holes at the top smoking lid to act as vents.
You dont see this on the pics because it was added after the last foto op.
You can if you want, lead in air via a pipe digged down into the gravels if you dont want to have vissible air intakes.
You are now the proud owner of a unique Sami hut that you can use as a guesthouse or maybe a cool looking sauna.....
PS. If you dont want to turn yourself into a smoke-dried fish, you MUST USE WELL DRIED and WELL SPLITTED wood.