How to finish the inside of a 12 x 20 cabin on a budget

Finishing the inside of the cabin with my budget was a little trying at times.

Step 1: Running the electric line

First thing i had to do was to dig a trench 50 feet.  Then i Ran 12/2 uf   underground wire through 3/4 inch conduit from the panel box in the garage to the junction box in the cabin.

Comments

[kabira]

Nice work! I am actually surprised that such a big cabin cost only $2600. I will be doing a similar project by converting a 8X12 vinyl siding garden shed into a woodworking shop. The cost of the shed itself is $3200, installed. I plan to put some solid flooring, insulation, lighting, and the wall panels.

[coolbeansbaby68]

Thats pretty much what i did . The big saver was the rough sawed lumber . Just look for sales long before you are ready to buy. I know thats hard to do but in the end it helped me out a lot . For the same building to buy now for me and thats without the finished inside would be about $5600.00

[AngelinaGrigg]

So if you don't mind me asking... How much did the interior cost to finish? Lock stock and barrel the whole cabin to build and finish?

[coolbeansbaby68]

I dont mind at all Angelina, The total build inside and out was around 2600.00 . To have someone build that it would be around 7,000 or more ....

[cmies]

For others looking at this project, I would ask that you please consult with your local electrical codes before attempting your own wiring. In my municipality, there are things in this project that would have to be corrected, things that you would not consider. For instance, I have a similar detached space and the electrical feed had to be burried deeper than 36 inches and encased in conduit. Just be careful.

[coolbeansbaby68]

It is encased in conduit.

[biffula]

Regardless, somewhere down the road, someone could take ditch witch and would rip right through that. You want to bury electrical DEEEEEEP.

[cmies]

Yes, I saw that in the comments later, sorry for that.

My comment wasn't specific for your project, I was just trying to make sure people understand the gravity of doing your own wiring, and the things that they might not think of. My city actually has a program for you to become certified to do you own wiring at your primary residence (you still have to pull all the same permits and have all the same inspections). I did the program and it was a great experience. Only took a few weeks of study, and then a Saturday for the test.

Great project by the way!

[coolbeansbaby68]

Actually i should have used 3 wire instead .I can change that easy.

[ToolboxGuy]

Agreed. I would highly recommend conduit, just to protect the cabling from the wandering shovel. UG is "underground" but it doesn't necessarily mean that it's safe without a conduit.

A walkway over the conduit is a helpful reminder of where it's buried as well. Given the distance you're pulling the wiring, you may have needed 10/2. It depends on distance and expected load. The "Electrician's Handbook" at your local home store can provide specifics. A heater and a fridge on the the same circuit could be too much draw for your wiring. I would also suggest you use a GFCI breaker, if you haven't already.

As cmies has pointed out, a quick discussion with the city building commission or a local electrician would be highly recommended. Even a chat with the local utility company's offices would be a good start. If you are so lucky as to have a city which lets you self-certify, do take the course.

I've done lots of electrical work on my homes, and I would have enjoyed having a course like this to learn about pigtailing and very useful tips like, "Dry fit all of your underground conduit from end to end, THEN string the bits onto the wire you plan to use, like beads on a necklace, THEN glue the PVC together...."

[coolbeansbaby68]

have you seen my modern outhouse yet?

[coolbeansbaby68]

Thank you very much. I still might change the wire to 10/2 i used 12/2 with a ground .Its not a hard job to change it .Juts more money when i already had the 12/2 wire ..maybe ill do it in the spring

[dalesql]

This step shows one not so good electrical wiring practice. You are using the outlet itself as part of the current carrying path for all the subsequent outlets in the chain. This puts four places(two white, two blacks) where a loose screw can cause sparks and overheating possibly leading to fire. You do have to do this with the GFCI that is protecting the entire chain of outlets, but not on the subsequent outlets.

By using a couple of wire nuts to tie the incoming and outgoing conductors directly together, along with a six inch piece of jumper wire to feed the outlet, you now only have the two possible points of failure feeding the rest of the chain. (one for all the blacks, and one for the whites) The wire nuts are a much more reliable means of joining wires. While a loose screw is much easier to miss in the rush of doing the project.

Depending on your local electrical code, this may also be not allowable. I do suggest going back and redoing these outlets.

I am impressed by the whole project. Do like. I just hope that by doing this, you will reduce the chance of losing the project to an electrically caused fire years down the road.

[static]

I have to believe if the metal between the two screws wasn't sufficient to handle the rated current for the circuit, and if there are other problems with the practice, the NEC wouldn't allow the use of duplex receptacles constructed in this manner. I know jurisdictions may in code and practices, but they don't make them safer than why the NEC allows. Code in some jurisdictions don't allow the use of modern non metallic sheathed cable.

[dalesql]

You miss the point. It's about reducing the number of possible failure points. Every screw terminal is a possible failure point that will shut down every downstream outlet. The wire nut connection is far more reliable.

[mdeblasi1]

As the owner of a licensed, insured, bonded, and code compliant electrical contracting company,
this sorta horrifies me.

[static]

Respectfully in my opinion in my opinion comment's are critical about something as important electrical installation safety, and not point out the issues, have to be irresponsible. Even calling into question if the person making the criticism has the credentials they state. Why not make that can be constructive to those reading it have been alerted to an issue will not make the mistake after fact checking the validity of the criticism?

[mdeblasi1]

I'm not sure I understand your comment.
Is this what you are looking for?
United Systems
Ohio License #10552

[coolbeansbaby68]

why is that?

[mdeblasi1]

Because I was once a teacher and had a student and her sister die and their father loose both eyes and a hand trying to save them ---
In an electrical fire.

There is a good reason for code inspections.

[static]

Nice fish, but I'd run 240 V service to it if it where where I live. AC is great for summer, and the same circuit could be used for baseboard heaters during the Winter. I don't buy all the gibberish in Edenpure commercial, so I wont but an overpriced Edenpure heater but that's me. 240 service would allow we to balance the load better to have an all electric kitchen are. But to be honest I'd go woth propane fo space heating or a cooktop.

[PaleoDan]

Awesome job! and thanks for posting the interior pictures. I think I will use this when I get some land to build on. I might make one slight change and add a small wood stove.

Again, great job.

[coolbeansbaby68]

Thank you dan

[zanne101]

Have you seen the little marine stoves?

http://www.marinestove.com/sproducthistory.htm

I've been eyeing these for a future project.

[coolbeansbaby68]

I havent seen these before

[PaleoDan]

I had not seen those before - they are very cool but a bit pricey. I wonder if you can still find used ones for sale cheaper.

Thanks for the link.

[67spyder]

They sell this one for ice fishing shacks etc.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8192403/Miscellaneous-Surplus/Steel-Camp-Stove
They go on sale about twice a year

[coolbeansbaby68]

I seen these before but i didnt want the work with wood .

[coolbeansbaby68]

That would be a good idea too! I just went with a simple heater and it works good

[diy_bloke]

looks great

[Ortzinator]

You can buy drywall that is mold resistant. And drywall is more bug and fire resistant. I fear you have created a giant tinderbox.

[coolbeansbaby68]

What isnt a tinderbox?

[Ortzinator]

A cinder block building? An earthbag building? Those would be even more mold and fire proof.

[diy_bloke]

But indeed, there is drywall for moist spaces, like bathrooms. That definitely is an option

[diy_bloke]

Though in fact you are right, even concrete houses will burn, mostly due what is in it :-)

[twighahn]

needs a bathroom and cooking area

[coolbeansbaby68]

You need to take a look at my modern outhouse and deck kitchen instructables ..

[bitcsi]

Couldn't help but notice some electrical Code violations. We use the NEC with a few Wisconsonisms added. As an inspector I can't help but notice. That said I like the woodwork and you took some great photos. I could use a place like this outback. Take care and read up on correct wiring practices when you get a chance.

[TheBlackSharpie]

I want one now!

[coolbeansbaby68]

Thank you i just added a video