Ever wanted to run around a death chamber in an orange jumpsuit but never had the means to think with portals? Well now you can give it a go; perhaps. This is just one of the examples I hope to use to get into the Props and Special Effects industry *wink wink*. Rate it if you like it please.
Step 1: Starting Steps
Assuming the gun would be approximately 500mm in length, I scaled the first image up in Microsoft Word and then just drew lines to find measurements to get an accurate model. Then using the other screen shots, fill in the details.
Step 2: Tools & Materials
Lots of hand tools
Hot Glue Gun (lots of hot glue!)
Exercise mat foam
Folder plastic (like an A3 art folder)
5Litre paint can
Clay or plasticine
Newspaper & PVA glue
Wood filler (this stuff is vital!)
Step 3: The Main Barrel
Everything is then built onto this barrel, starting at the front. Cut out a suitable sized piece of foam and hot glue it around the barrel to build up the shape. I used an old exercise mat about 8mm thick which was easy to cut with a scalpel but also meant it damaged easily and deforms if in contact with the glue gun nozzle, so be careful! Shaping the front piece of foam is done carefully with a scalpel, it'll get tidied up later.
Step 4: Building Up
A ring is shaped out of foam from a kneeling garden mat which was thicker and stiffer than the exercise mat. Hot glue the two together and then hot glue the ring onto the barrel.
Step 5: Getting Tricky
Slide it onto the barrel and hot glue it to the foam ring and the barrel. Lots of hot glue to hold everything together.
Step 6: Under Belly
Step 7: Adding Detail
A rectangle of plastic long enough to cover the top curve and half as wide is cut out. 9 slits are cut so the plastic can fold alternately between stright and L-shaped to form the windows. Scoring the back of the plastic helps it crease nicely. Another strip of foam was glued to the barrel underneath the plastic to give the depth. All the folds are hot glued down so they stay put.
Step 8: Skinning the Underbelly
The big cylinder at the back end of the gun is about 165mm in diameter and 200mm long, which is about the size of a 5 litre house paint can (which I found in a skip). After you've cleaned it out, cut a 75mm hole for the barrel to slide into. Again, it's not centre but is relative to the oval shape being in the centre of the can. I cut it out by drilling lots of holes in a circle and punched it out.
Step 9: More Detail
A big disc of the kneeling mat foam was cut and tapered to the diameter of the paint can and stuck onto the bottom. Make sure to cut a hole in the same place on the foam as the can for the barrel to slide through. The top of the can (the back of the gun) was cut off to bring it to length.
This is where wood filler is invaluable. I used Ronseal Wood Filler which spreads on like a putty and sets hard. Go over the whole model and fill in any divots or gaps or uneven transitions with wood filler. This is crucial around the parts cut with the scalpel to smooth it out and lose the jagged cuts. Take time with this as it is where things will all smooth out and look neat. Sand it down with fine paper so it's nice and smooth for painting.
Step 10: Undercoating
Step 11: Making the Shells
The large shell at the rear is made from chicken wire cut to shape and bent like before to make the basic shell.
I used pieces of paper to find the shape I need and made sure they fit around the paint can and the front section. I've added the patterns I used to make the shells. Sketched out mostly by eye. The front shell is on A4 and the back shell is on A3.
Step 12: Papier-mache the Lot
Step 13: Smooth and Paint
Then paint both shells with the same brilliant white gloss paint used for the main body for a nice shiny white shell. You could save yourself alot of trouble if you have sheets of acrylic and a heat gun to mould the plastic into shape.
Step 14: All the Extras
Picture 1 is the hole for big shell made from several strips of paper wrapped tightly round and glued. The paper coil is then staggered to get that chamfered look. More wood filler is spread to smooth it out and then a hole is cut in the big shell and the paper cylinder hot glued in.
Picture 2 show the arms that point over the front of the device. The arms are cut from wood and lap-jointed in place. The front of the arms sandwich the main arm and come to a point after some whittling (see Picture 3).
Picture 4 shows the cables made from some tube with coathanger wire inside to allow shaping and stiffness. The little black wire things are just that, made from coathanger wire. Each one is four identical lengths of wire with two bent into C shapes and then stuck to the other two lengths (see Picture 5).
Picture 6 is the little turbine like disc you can sometimes see inside the gun barrel when it's lit up. Just a piece of cardboard with foam inserts stuck on and the centre cut out. Then all painted two-tone grey.
Step 15: Finishing Touches
Holes are then cut in the front shell and top of the windowed section for the arm thing, tubing and black wire thing to poke through and all glued into place. The top arm on the windowed section is off centre in placement and is further over to the right.
Poke the other end of the tubes into the plasticine sweet capsules on the big shell and glue in. Then glue the shells to the main barrel. The hole cut out of the barrel is paned with a sheet of clear plastic inserted inside and stuck down and you're done!
Improvements to be made? Thanks for reading!