There are MANY ways to remove stuck and stubborn nuts/bolts, here are some of the ways that I've found work best.

These methods contain both simple options, and some that use luxurious tools such as an impact gun or welder. Use caution, as some of the methods described can cause damage to your parts and might injure you if you do not take proper safety precaution (read: don’t be stupid).

Let’s begin!

Step 1: Use Some Muscle

Try a 6-point wrench or socket on your seized nut/bolt. Start by rocking the bolt by tightening then loosing, this may be all you need to break through the rust. Try and avoid 12-point wrenches and sockets as they likely to slip and strip the bolt head.

Another great tool I have found that is made by Irwin Tools is there Original Locking Wrench. Found here


This tool has been a life saver for me! It has removed the worst brake bleeder screws I have seen! It works on rounded fasteners too. This beast can be tightened so much, that it will WARP the nut! These have been in my box now and will not be leaving any time soon! They have a parrot beak shaped jaw allowing 3 sides of contact without marring up the corners of a hex fastener! Neat, Isn't it??

Step 2: Clean It Up

If using some muscle on the bolt does not allow it to budge don’t be discouraged, as there's a few more ways to get that bolt free.

Take a wire brush and clean the bolt of loose rust and dirt. We will then use some PB Blaster or similar PENETRATING OIL (I can vouch for its effectiveness). Apply oil to the bolt and threads, covering it completely, then give it some time to work; I prefer to spray it every hour for 2 hours. It may work quicker or longer then that stated time, that is my preference. I’m impatient.

Now let’s try out the 6-point socket/wrench again, you may find that it now loosens easier but it may still bind. Again, rock it in and out to break that binding force.

Still stuck?

Step 3: Leverage

Our next step is to use leverage to remove that stubborn bolt. Beware, rusted bolts and cheaper tools could possibly break and really screw you over. The best way to get some leverage is by using what is called a Breaker Bar, a long handled socket wrench without a ratchet mechanism. The longer lever will allow you to exert more force by being able to lean into it AND have excellent leverage, this will multiply your strength on the bolt. A lot of times, this will work for you.

Another way to get leverage is to use your wrench or socket wrench and add a pipe over the handle as an extension. However, the wrong tool for the job could hurt you. I suggest you do it right and buy a breaker bar.

Beware, at this point if your bolt is beginning to feel "soft" it may be twisting and about to break.

Step 4: Heat 'er Up

At this point, the bolt may still not budge. I bet your getting frustrated, Right? Don’t fear, there’s still plenty more things to try!

Our next step is to use a torch to heat the bolt up. The idea is to have one side of our bolt expand from the heat and break the rust. This can be easily done with a small propane torch. Be careful, this method WILL ruin the heat treatment on stronger bolts.

Heat it up as hot as you can get it without melting the bolt. Remove the heat and let cool or pour warm water on the bolt to speed up cooling. Once it is cool, try out the breaker bar again. With any luck, The heat has broken the rust seal on the bolt allowing it to turn.

This is not a good idea around flammables or rubber gaskets/bushings.

Step 5: Be Smooth

Since we have the propane torch out, we can also add candle wax to the stuck bolt threads. Apply a paraffin candle to the cool side of the nut, this will allow the paraffin (a lubricating wax) to be drawn toward the heat through the threads allowing you to unscrew the nut hopefully.

Step 6: Home Chemistry

If that has failed, our last attempt to do this without harming the nut and bolt is to treat it with another penetrating agent one last time. However, this time we will mix up our own.

Try a 50/50 Mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid with Acetone; it works exceptionally well. Treat several time over an hour and try to loosen again with the breaker bar.

Any luck? Time to do this the hard way!

Step 7: Drill a New Hole

If you have been unable to free the bolt by now, we'll have to take drastic measures.

If we are working with a bolt, We will have to drill out our bolt and retap the threads for a new bolt. This involves picking a drill bit the size of the hole, boring straight in and removing the threads of the bolt. Then, you will need to screw in a tapping tool to recreate our threads. If you need the exact size hole, bore the bolt out oversized and buy a heli coil. This threads into a tapped hole with an inner diameter for the correct bolt you would like.

Fortunately, a nut is much easier to remove.

Step 8: Split a Nut

If you have good access to the bolt another option could be to use a nut splitter. These inexpensive gadgets are found at most at most auto parts stores - I paid $10 for mine.

A nut splitter is slipped over the seized nut, then a screw on the side of the splitter is tightened which forced a wedge into the side of the nut. Keep cranking the nut splitter screw until the nut makes an audible pop and you get through the nut. Back off the nut splitter screw and clean the bolt of the split nut. Try adding more penetrating oil to the newly exposed bolt threads, then use one of the other methods described above to remove the bolt. With the nut removed, the bolt should be much easier to remove.

Unfortunately, this method destroys the nut and every once in a while the bolt too depending on its condition.

Step 9: Be Abrasive

Our last step if the nut splitter doesn’t work (or appeal to your stubborn bolt scenario) is use an angle grinder to cut the head off the bolt. Simply grind the nut and bolt until the nut no longer exists and pull the bolt right out.

This works great just be very careful as angle grinders can be a dangerous tool, they spin exceptionally fast (8000+ RPM) and have no anti kick mechanism. If your are not careful, the grinding disc may shatter and fly apart in all directions. The grinding also produces a lot of heat and sparks. BE CAREFUL!

Step 10: Bolt Extractor

Oops! You just broke off the head of the bolt you were trying to extract, leaving you with a stuck bolt and no way to remove it. Luckily there's one last way before drilling and retapping.

Go to an auto parts store and look for a Bolt Extractor, it’s a nifty tool that screws in the same direction as the bolt unscrews and allows you to drill into stuck bolt and keep turning it tighter and tighter until the bolt comes free and out. My bolt extractor kit came with a reverse-threaded drill bit, allowing you to drill into the bolt and then back the bolt out using the bolt extractor. It's a GREAT TOOL and will save a lot of headaches

Step 11: Feel the Vibes!

This a relatively new method I have learned from a friend of mine! I wanted to add this to the list. A great way to remove a stubborn bolt is to "shock" it loose. When I say shock it loose, I mean hammer it! To be more precise, an Air Hammer. Using an air hammer on low pressure will make a nice vibrating but strong tool enough to loosen rust sometimes. Believe me, It works. If you tune the air pressure correctly, It will have a distinct hum. On the other end of this spectrum, if the first doesnt work, is to use a blunt or pointed tip on the head of a bolt with full PSI to the tool. This rapidly hammers it breaking the rust up mechanically. Even greater when penetrating oil has been applied. I have found this works very, very well. To my recent discovery, There is actually a brake bleeder tool made by Phoenix Systems called a Bleeder Buster. It works on the basis of a hammer action while putting rotational force on the stubborn bolt! I got a set from them, and I can confirm that it works very well!

Step 12: Dont Go Nuts!

Another option for removing a rusty and stripped bolt? You can always repair the hex portion of the faster! How? Its simple! A great way to do this is to add a new nut to the old bolt head! A great way to do this, is to use a wire brush to clean the head of the bolt. Pretty clean is acceptable. From here, An appropriate sized nut can be MIG/Wire Feed welded on top of the bolt to provide a new gripping surface for the wrench onto the bolt! Nifty eh? Well, Guess what! This heating to cherry read while welding is also a great heat shock to the corrosion holding the fastener on! This makes it easier to remove!

Step 13: Brace for Impact!

One last tool I use often in my own work, Which is a life saver if you have it, Is an impact gun! Be it battery, corded, or an air impact tool! Heck, Even manual impacts work! These tools focus on a power and fast rotational hammering action to shock and loosen the bolt in one motion! They are much less likely to round off a bolt then using a breaker bar! However, They tend to occasionally snap rusty bolts off unfortunately. Use with care, Especially if you have a powerful one! There is not much to them, Simply put them on a rusty nut and depress the trigger and let the tool hammer away!

Step 14: Thanks for Reading

These are all methods I’ve used personally and have found work for me, I hope this has helped make the frustration and difficulty of stuck nuts and bolts a thing of the past for you.

I look forward to seeing comments here on other ways you have found that works too! I'd love to add some more ways if you have any of your own.

Step 15:

The Oops! happens when the bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt and you now have a piece of hardened steel bolt extractor to drill through.
<p>It is 4 years later, but my first time at this site. For the broken ease-out, it is tedious, but if the bolt is large enough, drill a circle of small holes around the ease-out. Then use a chisel to break out the core inside that circle. Years ago I bought an Allis-Chalmers tractor very cheap because the owner had broken ease-outs in two of the bolts mounting the front wheels to the engine. It took the better part of a day, but it worked (after I bought a dozen tiny drill bits).</p>
<p>that is extremely unfortunate :c</p>
<p>Oil of wintergreen makes a good rust buster. Apply it it with a syringe<br> and let it sit a couple of hours. You may need to apply it a couple <br>times, maybe every half hour and try it in two hours. Also lightly <br>tapping the wrench with a hammer. Jut tap tap tap. Avoid the <br>temptation to hit hard.</p>
What do you mean &quot; oil of wintergreen?
<p>Thanks. I am a woman with no training in these matters. I tried a wrench and knew it was going to strip the bolt..I came here and found the right tool and project accomplished with no problem</p>
<p>A lot of great information! Thanks!</p>
<p>Just a note to let you know I have added this to the collection: Difficult Dis-assembly: Taking Things Apart for Repair</p><p>&gt;&gt; <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Difficult-Dis-assembly-Taking-Things-Apart-for-Rep/"> https://www.instructables.com/id/Difficult-Dis-ass...</a></p><p>There are a lot of things that are hard to take apart and lot of methods.</p>
<p>Happened to me today. I bought a wider seat for my mountain bike and the bolts were impossible to budge. I read through the comments and only had WD-40 on hand so I gave it a try. I sprayed both sides where each bolt/nut was and waiting a minute (maybe) and when I tried again, it budged and I was able to remove it!!! It was over 90 degrees today and humid so the 5 minutes that I spent trying to do this before reading this post was very frustrating and exhausting. Thank you all for your expert advice!</p>
<p>A novel Approach.....Like the Engraver, Use a Spent Blade, attach it to a Multi-occillating Tool, then Squirt, Apply to Bolt Head Perpendicularly, then Run it ! Some Force is Required to Keep Contact with Bolt, but does WORK ! TOO ! 24,000 Cycles per second can't be all that Bad ! Get Inventive add Heat.....wear Gloves ! VJVMD</p>
<p>Then Try to Wrench it..........I Love that tool, is like 15 Bucks at Hfreight !</p>
<p>How about a plasma cutter or cutting torch?</p>
<p>Another thing you might try is pouring Coca Cola on the threads allowing it to run into the area where the nut is. It might easily dissolve the rust.</p>
<p>Oil of wintergreen makes a good rust buster. Apply it it with a syringe and let it sit a couple of hours. You may need to apply it a couple times, maybe every half hour and try it in two hours. Also lightly tapping the wrench with a hammer. Jut tap tap tap. Avoid the temptation to hit hard.</p>
<p>Only other one I could think of that's commonly recommended is beating it with a sledge hammer [i.e. with a socket on it] to loosen up the threads :)</p>
<p>Oops that's supposed to be hitting the end of your wrench (or breaker bar) with a hammer. Also founds on the interwebs: a pipe wrench is the ultimate stuck-bolt remover. if you can get one on there, the more force you put on the lever, the tighter the grip gets. with a pipe wrench, the fastener will fail long before the wrenches grip does.</p><p><br>you will completely mangle the faces of the fastener, though.</p>
<p>Oops again, looks like you *can* gently tap on the socket (that's on the bolt) with a hammer, may help.</p>
<p>Another option: dry ice (apparently quite effective, viz: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1330131-rusted-stuck-part-shootout-dry-ice-vs-crc-freeze-off-vs-acetone-atf-poultice-vs-pb-blaster.html )</p>
<p>CRC Freeze off is apparently similar to dry ice but a bit less effective (probably want to prop the dry ice while you hold it and use gloves LOL)</p>
<p>phillips heads give a problem by gouging when trying to apply torque. Can reform the slot, by good hammer blow on the head, then insert phillips tip and hammer blow on the back of the tip; reinserts/reshapes the slot. Also the vibration enlarges the thread and loosens .....</p>
<p>15 steps. Before opening this, I could only think of 4.. You really know your nuts man. </p>
<p>Thank you for all the great comments and suggestions everybody! I see a lot of great ideas in the comments and find them very informational! I'm glad to see so many different, new, and effective methods that have worked for you all!</p>
<p>Another really good tool for removing rusted bolt/nuts is an air chisel. Just chisel the head or nut off. Works a lot quicker than many of the methods mentioned.</p>
<p>Sometimes ice works where heat does not. Add some salt to lower the melting temp. </p>
<p>I should say lower the freezing temp of the water, either way get the parts cold.</p>
<p>Great tips. Thanks. When I heat nuts and bolts, I go extreme and touch the bolt with an ice cube. This quickly contracts the bolt to loosen it from the nut.</p><p>Also, Lee Valley sells a great product called Evapo-Rust the dissolves all rust but it's not corrosive. Just drop the bolt into it and wait until the rust is gone.</p>
<p>Fantastic accumulation of information, I'll keep it in the back of my head for the next stuck bolt. Thank you, trf!</p>
another great one that we use at work a lot is Tabasco sauce
<p>very helpful,would adding soup to it help?</p>
<p>soak it with brake fluid remember brake fluid will take paint off</p>
<p>What happened to using a hand impact driver? Probably the handiest tool in getting stubborn nuts and bolts loose!</p><p><a href="http://www.beta-tools.com/catalog/articles/view/1295/__lang_en/__catlang_en/__catalog_beta/__filters_" rel="nofollow">http://www.beta-tools.com/catalog/articles/view/12...</a></p><p>Also, nut splitters tend to be awful, unless they are the hydraulic type.</p><p><a href="http://www.beta-tools.com/catalog/articles/view/1710/__lang_en/__catlang_en/__catalog_beta/__filters_" rel="nofollow">http://www.beta-tools.com/catalog/articles/view/17...</a></p><p>Otherwise, this is a fairly good instructable.</p><p>p.s. I don't work for Beta tools, I just have their impact driver and like the quality of it... it has saved me a lot of problems and this is how I repay them :) don't know how good their nut splitter is though... never tried it. Yes, they are pricey tools, but worth it.</p>
<p>Excellent instructable! Nicely done!</p>
<p>You can grind a nut until it is very thin, but not damaging the thread. And then hit it with a chisel. It will make a dent in the nut, therefor expanding it and allowing it to be undone.</p>
<p>Great article, I need to buy a nut splitter.</p><p>Two words: Kano Kroil.</p><p>It always beats PB Blaster for me!</p>
<p>Thank you for an excellent 'ible.</p><p>Personally, I've found out that having an uncle with BOTH oxy acetylene and air impact wrenches, which can be used in tandem obviously, has great effect. Talk to your aunts about this. </p><p>BTW I've sometimes found this neat trick to be handy, too, to increase leverage and usefulness of your own force: The &quot;two-wrench trick&quot;. Google it.</p><p>If it seems like your wrenches are about to break (or if they actually break), well then you know muscle power isn't going to cut it. Kind of a lakmus test, really.</p>
<p>I wouldn't recommend using a socket wrench with a lot of force. Especially not a 1/4 or 3/8 drive. The ratchet mechanism really isn't designed to be doing muscle work. Always 'crack it' as they say with a good quality ring spanner then if it comes loose put your socket over it to do the repetitive work. If the ring spanner makes your hand hurt or simply won't budge the bolt or nut then carry on with suggestions made here. Overall this is a very good post. I never heard of a nut splitter before. Looks legit!</p>
<p>I searched for busting a nut, not quite what I was looking for but great write up all the same!</p>
Nice list and very helpful. <br> <br>I can only think of one thing that's missing and that is the impact driver. Manual ones aren't expensive and can free up many stuck nuts, bolts and screws. They are particularly useful in places where there is only limited access. I would probably use one after cautiously trying a breaker bar or cheater handle but before the heat treatment. <br> <br>Compared to a breaker bar they are less likely to mangle heads or break bolts but if the bolt is rusted along it's length then you may also need a breaker bar once the impact driver has started things going and overcome the initial &quot;rust seal&quot; <br> <br>Powered ones are also available which could be used to spin the nut right off.
Heat cycling is pretty effective for breaking frozen hardware free. Heat the hardware up then rapidly cool it with some more penetrating oil. If the hardware is that rusted odds are I'm going to have to change it anyways. But sometimes I still clean it up, and it is OK. Rust itself is harder and more brittle than parent metal so I try to keep that characteristic in mind as I work on rusted items. My basic method is to shatter the rust. Because I know that once the rust is shattered to dust things should start going more smoothly for me.
Ive seen those before. Ive never been able to find one unfortunately! Would you happen to know where to find one? They are a nice tool to have! Thank you for the idea!
Any good auto parts store.
In the UK, they are easily available from Halfords among other places, in the US I am not so sure. <br> <br>I would imagine that somewhere like Sears would stock one, but hopefully a friendly US instructables user will take up the challenge and recommend a local auto store with a helpful owner near you? <br> <br>There's always Amazon as well if you have time to wait for delivery, just search for manual impact driver.
A great way to remove a screw broke below the surface is to keep a nut on top of the broken screw, weld with a thin guage welding rod inserted through the hole of the nut. Now you can turn it out with a wrench. I have used this method frequently with success, especially in cases of stubborn screws made of allow steel. With some practice we learn how to weld the nut to the screw avoiding parent block
You missed my favorite method. I prefer impacts to free up frozen hardware. Either using a pneumatic impact driver, or just hitting a wrench with a hammer repeatedly. Just torque usually leads to shearing hardware off but tapping it can free stuck parts from each other. The most important thing is to have patience. Stuff didn't get stuck overnight so you can hardly expect it to move again right away either. I've actually worked some really stubborn hardware for months before freeing it up. Stuff usually sees things my way eventually though.
I prefer the complete destruction method. That happens when you get so angry that you completely destroy your piece in a fit of rage.
I recently heard that (providing you have one) you can hold an electric engraver tool against the bolt for a few seconds and it will work the surfaces against eachother and it will come right off. <br> <br>I haven't had a chance to confirm this, but it could be one more option in your bag of tricks.
I have an engraver I'll have to give it a try someday. Although I doubt it will work. The engraver hardly shakes the whole world when it runs. I've a fairly decent one too I think. It is a Burgess Vibrocrafter.
Those are nice! I have the VibroMarker. The tip is the hardest material known to man. (well, this man anyway)
That is a very interesting idea! I have never heard of that myself to be honest! I Would love to hear how that works out if you or anyone else gets a chance to try this!
Thanks for the bag of tricks you added to my bag of tricks. <br>

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