Introduction: IKEA Lack Infinity Table
Instructables are actually full of infinity tables and mirrors of all kinds and shapes, but I think IKEA Lack table is the most convenient as it's widely spread, cheap and a pretty popular coffee table.
Step 1: Materials
To make this table you will need:
— IKEA Lack table – I bought it for about 7$
— Mirror 450x450x4 mm – I ordered it from a local glass company and it was about 8$
— Glass 450x450xx5 mm – ordered from the same guys for 6$
— Mirror film – I've chosen one with only 20% light reflecting, but it worked just fine. This films are used to cover cars windows. Bought 2 sq. m for 5$
— Some wood: I had these 2 meter 60x20 mm wooden blocks from which I cut out everything I needed. I think it won't cost much.
— RGB LED strip with a remote, controller and power supply – ordered them as a bundle from aliexpress: link. To be honest, this PS is huge. There are smaller ones that fit inside the table.
— Aluminium strip 12x2 mm 1 meter long – this is optional, I used it to secure power supply and it was in a local store. Probably, you'll come with something handy for your case. Anyway, it costed me 2$.
— Black spray mate paint – this one does a little hiding trick. Also you better have a black marker close to hand too. Spray paint costed 4$.
— Screws and nuts M4 x4.
As for the tools, it would be perfect to have hand circular saw, but a regular saw or, like me, Dremel with saw bits. This is important, because you want almost zero tearout on the surface of the table. You'll also need carpenter glue, hot glue, plastic card (such a simple thing, but still you may need to look for one), drill and sandpaper.
Step 2: Opening the Table
First thing we do is cut open our brand new Lack. I decided that 5 cm margin would look the best and that's why: there are supporting chipboard bricks, that you screw legs into, that are approx. 5x5 cm. If you make the glass 3-4 cm wider, you'll need to remove them almost completely and, moreover, leg's screw would most likely meet the mirror. Just keep that in mind.
Here I used Dremel with cut-off wheels and it was really inconvenient! It burns the fiberboard and glue inside producing a lot of smoke and smell. Later, I bought saw bits and understood that it would be just the right thing. Leave about 1-1,5 mm for further smoothing!
After all I pried the board off and there was honeycumb paper support – quite smart solution, in my opinion. It is better here to pry accurately to separate the whole board. And be careful while using tools for leverage – fiberboard is really soft!
Honeycomb is pretty easily removed: just grab and squeeze:)
Step 3: Preapare the Table
Remove those little pieces from chip wood block with a carpenter knife or again with a Dremel.
Next thing to do is smoothing the edges. I used a square aluminium tube that left from my previous project to align with the edge and make it straight.
Step 4: Mirror Supporting Frame
Here goes some calculations:
Measure depth to the surface, our grass+mirror thickness will be 7 mm, LED strip width is 10 mm + margin (it's thickness of a wooden stick that the strip is attached to, by varying this margin a distance between reflections changes allowing different visual depths).
So it is: depth – 7 mm – (LED stip + desired margin) = your supporting wooden frame height. For me it was about 29mm. I've made them 45 cm long, just to hold mirror from one end to another.
Wooden sticks for LED should fit between chipboard bricks so that it's not too tight and they doesn't fall off. The width I've chosen is 10 mm – enough gluing area on the edges and it doesn't take much space inside as only 3-4 of these 10 mm will support the glass. Make one a bit shorter of fit LED strip in the gap.
Tip 1: if you cut too much, you can glue a pile of paper pieces to recover desired length.
Tip 2: it turned out that the distance between bricks is not the same, so your sticks will perfectly fit only into one particular side. Number every stick and it's side.
I've attached saw to my table and really helped making straight cuts!
PS As you can see, originally, I planned to use 4 wooden frames but the mirror had a little gap somewhere so I decided that two holding pieces would be enough and it came out pretty sturdy.
Step 5: Power Supply Mount and Painting
Before mounting (and painting), arrange all electronics and decide where to make a hole for a power cord. (Don't glue them yet, I just didn't find photos with early arrangement). For mounting I made these clamps out of aluminium strip with a vase and a hammer and drilled corresponding holes for screws and a cord. If your PS fits inside than all of these operations are not necessary.
Next step is to paint the sticks for LED and (if you want) the bottom of the table and the clamps. This trick hides bright lines of wood that support the glass. When painted black, they become absolutely invisible.
Don't forget to apply masking tape if you paint the table.
Step 6: Installing Electronics and Supporting Frame
Install electronics as you arranged them. It's a good idea to glue all long wires to the bottom.
Before gluing holding frame make sure the mirror sits firmly and doesn't wobble.
Step 7: Making Mirror Glass
This step is the most important, because this is the face of your project!
First of all clean your glass with soap and rinse it so no tiny particles left (as few as possible). Next you need to prepare some slightly soapy water and apply it on the glass. Here you'll probably need another pair of hands: pry the protective film from one corner, while applying that corner of mirror film to the glass. After you layed the whole thing, position it right and get rid of the bubbles and odd water with a plastic card. Do not use metal tools as they'll badly scratch the film! Cut the film from every side, but leave about 1 cm margin that you'll accurately cut off after drying. Let the hole thing dry for 2 days.
PS. My first mirror film was really low quality (it's on photos), but I didn't managed to to take shots of the good new one. Sorry, guys(
Step 8: Assemble the Whole Thing
It's time to put everything together, but only after removing all the rubbish and checking remote control! Then place the mirror, apply carpenter glue and insert LED supporting sticks: they almost fully go under the table's surface, only 3-4 mm is needed to hold the glass. While inserting, don't forget about the numbers! Attach LED strip after glue have dried and sticks sit firmly. On the corners the strip may start going off – accurately apply some hot glue and make sure that all corners are fine before placing the glass. To hide the place where strip is inserted, paint this part of it black. Before placing glass (mirror film side down) you may use black marker to hide fiberboard edges. That's all, enjoy! :)
By the way, table now weights twice as it was.
If you have any questions or improvement ideas – feel free to write:)