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Step 3: "Body Filler / Sanding"

Material list:
Body Filler (with its hardener)
Spot Putty
Squeegee
Wood piece (surface for mixing)
40 grit Sandpaper
150 grit Sandpaper
600 grit Sandpaper
Rubber Sanding Block
Wet rag
Gloves
Respirator
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix very well a small portion of the body filler and hardener until you have a one color mix.

Here's my technique.

First body filler layer: Using the squeegee, apply body filler all over the part to give some body trying to let a smooth finish, let it dry some minutes (time depends on the amount of catalyst) until it is perfectly solid. Using 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block, sand it just to remove the sharp points and edges. Clean up the dust with the wet rag.

Second body filler layer: Apply body filler giving the necessary rounded shape of the part, and let it dry. Sand it with the 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block. After the surface is smooth, use the 150 grit Sandpaper and sand it again and you'll notice a smoothest surface. Clean up with the wet rag.

Third body filler layer: Watch for voids and imperfections, apply body filler to it. Sand it using the 150 grit Sandpaper. Clean up with the wet rag. Now you should have an almost perfect shape of the part.

Using the squeegee apply one very thin layer of Spot Putty to all the surface, as thin the layer is, the fastest it will dry. After some minutes with the Spot Putty dried, sand it using the 600 grit Sandpaper, Clean up with the wet rag again.

Use the dremel tool for line details, or any other kind of detail you need or want.

TIP: if you notice a deep void after applying and sanding the Spot Putty, fill it up with body filler, sand it, and apply again Spot putty and sand it. Is easier repair big or deep imperfections with body filler rather than Spot potty because of the drying time.
I downloaded the pepakura... the right shin left shin r the same! same thing w/ the right/left handplate...any suggestions?
same w/ shoulders, thighs and biceps
HEY! Sorry for the delay...<br>Here's a thing! some pieces are the same in the 3D model (left and right),<br>but if you take a look closely they are not the same, try to print them and you will notice the difference, I really have not idea why the 3D model doesn't change when flip is apply to parts.<br>Other pieces, like the hand plate, are just the same for both sides.<br>
<p>link for the helmet pattern please</p>
<p>I'm around 5'4 how should i scale it?</p>
<p>This was a great guide. I actually printed the design on paper then adhered it to cardboard and cut it out with an xacto knife. The cardboard would have been too flimsy so I coated it with liquid Epoxy which stiffened it up nicely. Might not be as durable as fiberglass but it was a easier alternative. Still working on the bottom, but so far so good.</p>
<p>All finished! Thanks for the tutorial!</p>
Your suit looks amazing. I am trying to do something similar to yours but need a few tips/pointers to get me started. All help is greatly appreciated!
<p>Thanks. It was a huge success last year.</p><p>As I recall, the pepakura printouts and cutting was the most time consuming. I would combine as many sections as I could and print on normal paper (make sure alignment numbers are visible). From there, I would use adhesive spray to attach to the cardboard. I then use a blade to cut out each piece of cardboard. Using hot glue, I was able to piece the cutouts together for each section.</p><p>The cardboard alone will not hold up, especially with moisture from rain, humidity and sweat. The Epoxy is critical to ensure pieces stay together. Make sure you are in workspace with tarps as the Epoxy will dry hard as rock and ruin anything valuable. If you are committed to the full suit, you should by the gallon kit: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-CRYSTAL-Gallon-COATING-TABLETOPS/dp/B00RDHIPOG/" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-CRYSTAL-Gallon-COATIN...</a></p><p>Epoxy, paint, hot glue and a few ribbon lights should be your overall expense. All done, it cost me $150 as the cardboard came from old boxes.</p><p>TIP: By accident, I made the suit a little big and was freaking out halfway through. However, the epoxy actually caused the cardboard pieces to shrink by 5-10%. In the end the suit was a little big but it caused enough overlap which developed a level of exaggeration which better hide undergarments. </p><p>Dali-lomo.blogspot.com is a cool blog that has tips and tricks for building iron-man pieces from cardboard. I actually used his tutorial for the hands as they came out better then the pepakura version in this tutorial.</p>
<p>Is it easy to adjust the sizes of the pieces? I am pretty at 6'3 and am worried that the suit won't fit me.</p>
<p>You can resize. I am 6'2 so it took some scaling (<em>scaled to 26 if I recall correctly)</em>.</p><p>Finding the right scale took some practice. I ended up making 3 helmets before I found the right scale. While you can tweak slightly to ensure proper fit, you want to keep the scale the same for each piece to ensure ratio of the armor. </p>
<p>Thanks for the info. I was doing the same as you, making one helmet regular size and then guessing how much bigger I would need to make the next.</p><p>When you say &quot;scaled it to 26&quot; do you mean &quot;I scaled it up by 26%&quot; ?</p><p>I'm wondering if I will have to go to 30%.<br><br>Also, did any of your pieces grow too large for the page they were on? I'm worried that some of the longer pieces may need to go across two pages. </p>
<p>Sorry it has been some time since I did it. It is certainly not 25% bigger, if anything it would be closer to 10%. Each % difference makes a drastic change.</p><p>As for printing... yes. many of the pre-cut pieces were too large. There is actually a cut tool that allows you to break down larger pieces to various pages. Do make sure to match up the tabs/numbers.</p><p>*advice*</p><p>Save time printing and cutting by using the Papakura tools to combine smaller pieces before printing. It helps make cutting cardboard easier later on. :)</p>
<p>Has anyone converted the files to PDF and would be able to forward them to me?</p>
<p>Would the mask be strong enough for airsoft?</p>
How much does it cost to make roughly all together
<p>im having real trouble with the ears, the dont seem to match, is anyone else having this problem?</p>
<p>how did you nmeasure the boots for the shoe because i am having trouble measuring the boots and placing the measurments in pepakura plz tell me plz</p>
<p>i might motorise it for compact storage</p>
<p>this suit is amazing especially the programing used, right now im making my own but out of metal.</p>
I made this costume a while back (2012-2013) using recycled materials.<br>I used empty beer cans ( after cutting top and bottom of the can making aluminum sheets of the rest ) and using toner transfer method for the pepakura printed pieces. Then after cutting them I used a hot glue gun to glue pieces together. After that I applied newspaper pieces soaked into PVA glue ( Disney's art attack method). <br>Next I used sandpaper to smooth the pieces and finally I applied primer and spray paint.<br>It was a very cheap build( 70 euros - 80$ total), very light (6 or 7 kg) and pretty durable.
Hyy sir plz help me to make a Iron man mark 6
<p>Still working on assembly.</p>
<p>Finally finished. This tutorial helped me a lot. Thanks.</p>
<p>how do you dowmload ironman 2 suit mark 4&amp; 6</p>
<p>Hey, I really like your armor and I wanted to make it myself. However, is the design compatible with thin foam (like craft foam?) </p>
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<p>hi very good job with this , i cant download anything and i wonder if you can send it to my mail: panosarchangel@gmail.com</p><p>very big thanks and keep do what you doing you are the best</p>
Is this all foam eva
<p>Hi. Congratulations for the work. You could send the files to the model for me. wgiacomin.consultor@gmail.com<br> Thank you.</p>
<p>also what gram card stock did u guys use? Anyone help? </p>
<p>hi was wondering if u can bend your fingers in the iron man glove? Thanks please reply asap</p>
<p>Could you please reply with the link for the suit because the imageshack links don't work.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>i have worked it out now </p>
<p>i cant download the files</p>
<p>Hey im trying to make a Mark 4 suit and i have i month and a week and a half left to finish it. but there are some things I don't know.</p><p>1. how do you connect the pieces to the other pieces? like the chest with the back or the three parts of the bicep to each other?</p><p>2. how did you size yours? (just to know though, I was planning on making them and sizing them on me, I already made half-ish of the pieces)</p><p>Ill come back and ask more questions when I remember what I cant do. </p><p>PLEASE RESPOND!!</p>
<p>In addition to first question, how do you connect abs parts?</p>
if you mean connecting the pieces of the 6 pack area, then I think you line up the front bit as you obviously would and the part that doesn't obviously connect behind those pieces you just have to align the part that you can see. so the nub that connects the 6 pack pieces to each other, just figure out where that goes and stick the remaining bits of that piece down. <br><br>if you mean the 6 pack area to the part that wraps around your back, then you just have to guess or eyeball it. try putting it on to find where it would connect when you wear it.<br><br>hope that helps
<p>where can I download the Ironman Mk II helmet pdo file for pepakura, please could any one help cheers... </p>
<p>I made the helmet, but it is so small for my big head :) so I'll begin with a bigger one. Also, I used thick cardboard, which makes it imposible to make the small details and curvatures, so I'll use a thiner one.</p>
<p>I can't find the link. the link at the beginning of this file apparently no longer exists. Any idea where I can find the paper files to make this pattern?</p><p>Thanks,</p>
<p>So when I try to print out the helmet, part of the eye won't print with the rest. When I view the helmet in pepakura the pieces that won't print aren't in the white tiles like the rest of the pieces, they're in the grey area. Thanks</p>
You don't need those pieces, that's why they are in the gray area
<p>Thanks it looked like we needed them but it seems like it just covers up the eye</p>
<p>Hey I'm thinking about trying this, but there is currently no file in the &quot;Shoulder R&quot; folder. If you could please update this I'd greatly appreciate it! I would hate to size every piece and not end up having the right shoulder.</p>
<p>hey, wich papersize did u use? 297x210mm?</p>
<p>Hello , I live in Brazil . Too like your project. Congratulations ! What is your time .... This design was made to its correct dimensions ? <br>I have 1.87 in height .... <br> <br>I'm waiting!</p>

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