Introduction: Increase Your Fuel Mileage 50%,(Pressurized Air Dissolved in Fuel)
Check the Physics if you Don't Believe it.
Step 1: The Equipment.
Heres Some of the Basic things i Bought at Harbor freight for the Project,
1 12V 10Amp Air Compressor.
1 25ft small Air hose.
1 100ct zipties
1 Pressure Regulator.
1 Swivel Head Male Air Fitting.
1 12V 10Amp Adapter Etc.....
Step 2: Math.
Step 3: Legal.
Necessary for me,even though you probably will ignore this.
Step 4: Access Your Fuel Tank.
Take out Passenger Seat,
If there isn't any Latches on either side of the cushion,Chances are you can just yank out each side with some muscle like i did.
Step 5: Gas Tank.
Find the Uppermost point to Drill your Hole for your air fitting, add your Choice of O-ring or Adhesive after you screw your fitting to the tank.
*******Keep in mind you need to make space available to put the Swivel head Male end to your fitting.
Step 6: Air Line.
attach your Coupling and swivel head, your Preference if you Use Teflon on your fittings,
Feed the Line down through a Gap towards the bottom of the Vehicle.
Step 7: Feeding Your Line.
Before you start Using your Zipties make sure you feed the Line all the way towards the Engine,
Note,Steer Clear of Components such as Exhaust Pipes,Open Metal, I.E Engine/Transmission,so that you don't Melt the Line, Rather run the Line along the Fuel lines as Shown, they will normally be 3-5 Small Metallic lines from the Tank,
once you Have Enough Slack secure the Line with the zipties.
Step 8: Placing Your Compressor.
This Part Requires some Creativity, if you are Using the same Compressor as me it likes to Overheat, so put it in a Spot with some Ventilation,I.E next to the Radiator(the Thingy towards the Front of the Vehicle, with the Fan), if you can reach down that Far, Once you have put it in what you think is a Decent Spot Bring out the Zipties.
Keep in Mind to have your 12V Adapter and Air line Already Connected to make it a Little Easier.
Step 9: The Regulator.
Connect the Air line in the Direction of the Black arrow Shown on the Regulator, and connect your other Air line from the Fuel Tank to the Regulator, Secure as Necessary,
i Would Suggest using a Little something extra (the Brass looking thing to the Left of the Pressure Dial) it is a airflow Controller, allows less air into and fuel Vapors out of your tank during use, which i find works better.
Step 10: Dreadful Electronics,
Not going to give the Whole Rundown, but Red is Positive and Black is the Negative Pole, run wires through the side of the vehicle where the door opens.
do not connect the Negative Clamp til you have Completed Connecting the Wires, Strip the Ends off the Electrical Wire, tighten to the Positive Terminal, run that end to the front of the car towards the Driver seat, Connect to Push switch and insulate with Ideally electrical tape, other tape works just fine, connect the other line that goes to the 12V adapter (red) clamp, Make sure to put the clamp near some plastic to insulate it from short circuiting, and secure with zipties as necessary,
Flip the Switch during use of the Vehicle, and flip it off when you are done.
Step 11: The Why...
Heres the Link to the Youtube Video that i made doing a Preliminary test.
Step 12: Tips on When to Use.
If any of you have Made this or are in the Process,
The best times to Use it,are trips that are 15mins or more for around town(low Volume), so that way you will have time to fill the Volume of the Tank(half Empty tank=half the volume of the tank you have to fill) and make pressure, otherwise the Mileage Gain will be Negligible, as it is not actually fully working yet, highway is Definitely the Best area to use it.(high/full volume from the compressor)
As Well as if you are Keeping the Project attached to your vehicle after using/Testing, and using the Same Air compressor it is not biased, meaning when it isn't in use fuel will evaporate slowly out of it, Haven't found a Appropriate one way pneumatic valve to use, so i would suggest during non-use to turn your regulator all the way towards the -(minus) end to close the valve.
and Just in case you still feel skeptical after testing your vehicle and the computer reads higher mileage and you think it did something to Mess with the Computer calculations, Use a Solid physical Method to test Gas Mileage by filling your vehicle til the Nozzle stops twice,(close regulator First) recording Mileage, then driving with it in use for 20 or so miles(more miles means more accurate reading) then (close Regulator) if you are skeptical about the aeration of the fuel to effect the pressure on the nozzle putting in less gas go ahead and let it aerate for as long as you think is necessary, fill tank til the nozzle stops twice, then divide your mileage into your 1.3 or whatever Gallons to get your MPG's which should be accurate with your computer. for the Solid answer of yes your computer isn't crazy.
Although if you have it your "range" and fuel meter components will be Inaccurate when using Pressurized air.