Instructables
Picture of Homemade go kart
Me and a friend got tired of being bored and we don't have money to go out so we decided to build a go kart from scratch using materials we found around the shop. We custom built every single part on this go kart, from the steering to the brakes. This project took 3 days and at a total cost of $0.
 
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Step 1: Materials

What you will need:
Square/Round tubing for frame and support
Seat
Steering wheel
Flat stock
Round rod
Assorted bolts

Step 2: The frame

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We built the frame out of 1" square tubing that has been sitting next to the house for years. We started by researching racing kart frames and came up with a design. 

Step 3: The spindles

To build the spindles you take a piece of 1" flat stock that is 7" long and bend it so you have 2"-3"-2" U shape. Make two of these. Once they are bent, drill a hole the size of the bolt you are using in the top and bottom. Now cut a piece of round tube that is a little bit smaller than the inside height of the spindle. This piece needs to be a snug fit to the bolt your using so the tube will turn freely around the bolt but not so tight that its difficult to rotate. Now for the part that actually rotates, I used 1/2" square tube to make this part. Weld a bolt that is long enough and wide enough to go on the wheels you are using onto the piece of tube that the bolt goes through. At a 90 degree angle to this piece weld another piece of tube that the steering components will attach to.

Step 4: Steering shaft

The steering shaft is a piece of 1/2" hollow round tube. The length is determined by where you want the steering wheel. we made our shaft about 18" long which is perfect for use cause were both skinny. You will need two industrial washers to hold the shaft in place so the wheels will actually turn instead of the shaft. 
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giffo0510 hours ago

thinking of making it could u please give me the measurments for it.

i am a sing a song about big fat butts wiggle wiggle

bilko995 months ago

could you plz put the measurments up

joshr1238 months ago
if anyone wanted a 3d model kinda like this heres a link. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=d9895bc7987350404b7a1ae91a584f32
kate251511 months ago
wat r the measurement
kblaugrana1 year ago
dimension frame plz
Reece691 year ago
Could you possibly send me the dimensions to your kart?
wbannister1 year ago
Can u give me all the measurements please??
awesome job but needs more defence
thanx, please follow me did you say you need pedals oe a gas tank or even how to link and connect this stuff??
is it electric
sco_oter (author)  rhys256908112341 year ago
no its gas
Hi when you say, add a clutch what happens right now with out a clutch?
What measures are in centimeters

Nice go kart
toxictwin1 year ago
Awesome job,
yayo232 years ago
well as i know you said you used parts around the shop but what did you get your parts off to make your frame
sco_oter (author)  yayo232 years ago
The frame was cut from square tubing from behind the shop
jamob2 years ago
how well does it work>
mahdisamiei2 years ago
it`s very good
yholiyat2 years ago
Very awesome project, me and my friend are doing this over the summer and we hope i works out. But can you post any videos or links to videos of you riding it, just for a little engorgement and taste of it.

Very awesome and thank you!
Very cool, man. Impressive build. Would you be willing to send me your plans? I also have a bunch of steel laying around and just picked up a welder... I'm itching to let 'er rip. thanks! Have a good one!
Hippymike962 years ago
Is there welding?
Great work indeed; and it looks almost as good as company made I give u thumbs up.
ak35802 years ago
where did you get your base model ????????????

sco_oter (author)  ak35802 years ago
We googled racing kart frames and searched till we found one we liked.
How is it free then?
sco_oter (author)  garytoast2 years ago
Its free because i didn't buy anything for this project.
So you made the frame
sco_oter (author)  garytoast2 years ago
I made everything on the go kart except the engine, wheels, and steering wheel and those i salvaged from two mini likes, an edger, and my car.
jcksparr0w2 years ago
Thanks for this. i now know what i need to do to my frame to make the steering work!!! Thanks again!
I just wanted to say that you have a seat and asorted bolts in the materials list but no wheels! This is a new turn of events in the mobility world. Grab the balloons! we're going up!

just kidding though. cool project
Phil B2 years ago
Do you think there is a weight limit for the rider? If so, what do you think it would be? It appears from the flux dust that you did not use a MIG welder, but either a flux core wire feed welder or a stick welder. Which did you use?

This is a nice project that should provide much enjoyment for a long time. Thank you for sharing it.
sco_oter (author)  Phil B2 years ago
I believe the weight limit is around 200lbs. I used a cheap walmart stick welder. It would support more weight if I had a better welder. Thanks for your reply.
Phil B sco_oter2 years ago
I noticed the drawing of the pattern you used as a starting point and saw that there was an extra angled 1" x !" brace on each side that would add strength where the front half of the frame is welded to the back half, but you did not use those in your build. I was wondering if the frame would have a little less strength to support weight because those angled braces are not included.

In my limited experience it is not easy to get a good weld on square tubing when using a stick welder. It is very easy to burn a hole, especially when making what amounts to a "T" joint.

Thanks for your response.
sco_oter (author)  Phil B2 years ago
I changed that angled piece to be parallel with the front/back of the kart so the seat had something to weld to. I had my friend do all the welding and he's a certified welder and we didn't burn any holes in the metal. I have tried welding square tubing with a stick welder before and I burned holes in it everywhere but this tubing was 3x thicker than the tubing I was welding on so it was less prone to burn through.
Phil B sco_oter2 years ago
I had a project made of 1" square tubing. The tubing had fairly thin "normal" walls. Many of my joints were "T" joints. The end of the one piece would melt away with relatively little heat, but the linear side of the other piece required much more heat to weld. I used 1/16" electrodes at around 60-65 amps. I tried to keep most of the arc on the linear side of the one piece and tried to weave over onto the end of the other piece just enough to make a good weld, but not enough to make it blow a hole. Part of the trick was starting the arc. When I had the welder current high enough to start an arc, it was too high to weld without blowing holes. When I had the welder current dialed back where I did not blow holes so easily, it was very hard to start an arc. (I was using a Miller Thunderbolt with an infinitely adjustable crank wheel, not a welder like a Lincoln "tombstone" where settings click in with no fine adjustment between settings.) This is an old trick I read when I first got a welder and helped me keep the welding current lower while still starting an arc easily.
Phil, I am now using a method I invented: because the electronic mask allows me to use both hands, I add a black iron wire like an additional electrode, like in Oxy-Aceltylene welding. That trick allows me to weld relatively thin sheet or tubes, without holes. Two weeks ago I picked a little carousel from the street, carried it to my home and fixed it some rotten iron parts and reinforced the weldings. Now it is at one of my granddaughters's home, she is very happy.
I do not believe you have an oxy-acetylene torch, so you must mean that you hold the wire in the puddle made by your electrode. Clever.
Yes, it is so as you say. I put the black wire over the sheet to weld or the hole to fill, and then start the arc on it. When the wire melt, I push it until the welding or filling is accomplished, then cut the wire with the arc. Pulling a little when it is clear red, is enough sometimes. I have used different thickness, 1 thru 6 mm, successfully, depending on the thickness of the piece. To fill holes, always is better perform little tacks, allowing the iron to harden for a split second before restarting the arc. Otherwise, the hole enlarges.
rimar.

kumusta usted?

i made a small electric arc welding machine from 2 scrap microwave ovens transformer for my tnin sheets works.. i still make holes, what is your electronic welding mask?

gracias, via con dios!
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