Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Gather Stuff
- Cooler (found mike kicking around my shed)
- Couple of larger AC fans, I got mine from a K&N Air Filter display that my local Auto Parts Stores was throwing out when they were going out of business
- Coil setup from a Fridge that is being discarded. Keep an eye out in the neighborhood on garbage day.
- Old Air Purifier fan, or any 6ish inch fan that you can find
- Toilet Drain Flange, Hardware Store (Orange, Blue or Green)
- Shower Drain, again found at a Hardware Store (Orange had this one)
- Fountain Pump, Harbor Freight.
- 7" Duct Elbow, Hardware Store
Misc tools
Screwdriver
Hammer
Drill
Angle Grinder
Jig Saw
Etc











































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




Your only real concern with an overpowered pump is if it's generating a lot of heat and pumping warm water up into your heat exchanger and/or melting the ice too fast. The idea is to keep your fins as cold as possible so the more cold water you move through it the better.
Don't run de-ionized water for any length of time. De-ionized water has a habit of trying to pull ions from whatever it's running through, speeding up your corrosion issues.
Instead of salt, add some alcohol to your mix (grain or rubbing) it has the same temperature lowering effect but won't corrode. The pump has a warning about being used with fuels, but if you keep the mix reasonable it shouldn't be a problem.
I'd be interested in hearing what this set up does to the humidity in your shed, since you're blowing warm room air over the ice before blowing it over your fins.
I'm building one of these in a 12 volt mode for my pickup, to sit on the back seat.
Cool the truck cab while driving and not use the fuel hungry Auto AC. With only two computer fans and a small submersible pump to run, this will use a lot less power then the Auto AC electric clutch, and less fuel to make the few extra watts of power to run the cooler. Add in a simple valve and hose to drain excess melt water outside the cab means not having to haul it out to drain it and straining the back.
Will detail the build and make an instructable when its complete. Will also test it against auto unit for cooling. I intend to put the coil outside the ice container to cool cab air and not introduce extra humidity to the cab, dripping enough sweat now! By channeling cab air only through the cooling coils, I can have dry cool air and no extra cab humidity do deal with.
Its the ones who try things that find answers, and no amount of armchair design beats a hands on trial and error for building real knowledge. thankfully here at instructables, we can learn from each other.
Though to be honest, I don't think you need the pump/radiator at all. Blowing air over bare ice is going to be more efficient. That's how old-style air conditioners worked before phase-change systems took over.
Nice jon though. And nice score on the free fans. Dumpster Diving Rules!
during the day it's Garage Sailing, and at night, it's Garbage Sailing
Sailing.. :) Kinda make me want to break out the Caviar and Champagne!
I would love to see some performance data on it that would list the sq. ft. of your shed and cooling gain.
Thanks for making this instructable.
Shawn
I have a video I will be posting soon.
The smallest AC units are about 5000 BTU/hour.
The cooler may hold about 20-30 lbs of ice.
So, the heat it will absorb will be about 144 * 30 = 4300.
So you may get about an hour of usable cooling from this.
Hauling ice to the shed may require more cooling.
I would rather troll CraigsList for a free AC unit.
realy inspiring "ible"
Agreed, that could be a problem if the rated CFM's of both fans aren't more or less equal (or the input fans' rated CFM's are greater than the output), but if they're compatible in this respect then the output fan should be a real benefit to the sensible cooling effect of the device. It has the effect of serving as a 'booster.'