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It all started with an idea I had many years ago.
I had just picked up a cheap-o glass chess set at my local arcade for the low low price of only 15,000 tickets. The novelty of playing with glass pieces quickly wore off, and I wondered how I could make it better. The thought of illuminating the set seemed very appealing, but there were so many different ways that could be done.
I could put alternating colored lights under the board following the checkerboard pattern. The light would shine up through the glass board and make the pieces glow. The problem with this design is that the pieces would change color with each move, and (since the difference between the two sides is not black / white but frosted / clear) this would make game play somewhat confusing.
I could put a small battery and light inside of each piece, so the two sides would each be different colors. This would probably be the simplest way to get glowing pieces; however, this design is not without its problems. The batteries would need to be replaced. Their lifespan could be extended if a small sensitive on/off switch, activated by the chess piece being in an upright position, were added. This would complicate the design though, and still only be a temporary solution, as the batteries would need to be replaced eventually. This design (with the switch) does have one more advantage. It gives the chess pieces two states, on and off. I liked the idea of the chess pieces being illuminated while they were in play (upright and on the board), and dark while they were out (dead and off the board).
The final design I chose (which will be explained in more depth in the next step), was to have each piece contain an LED that would be powered by a conductive board. The board is plugged into an outlet, so there is no need to worry about the power running out. While the pieces are on the board they are "live" and illuminated, and while off the board they are "dead" and dark.
I made a stop motion animation of game six between Kasparov and Deep Blue. The animation does not end with checkmate, because when Kasparov saw that he was going to be beaten by a computer, he threw a hissy fit and stormed off.
It all started with an idea I had many years ago.
I had just picked up a cheap-o glass chess set at my local arcade for the low low price of only 15,000 tickets. The novelty of playing with glass pieces quickly wore off, and I wondered how I could make it better. The thought of illuminating the set seemed very appealing, but there were so many different ways that could be done.
I could put alternating colored lights under the board following the checkerboard pattern. The light would shine up through the glass board and make the pieces glow. The problem with this design is that the pieces would change color with each move, and (since the difference between the two sides is not black / white but frosted / clear) this would make game play somewhat confusing.
I could put a small battery and light inside of each piece, so the two sides would each be different colors. This would probably be the simplest way to get glowing pieces; however, this design is not without its problems. The batteries would need to be replaced. Their lifespan could be extended if a small sensitive on/off switch, activated by the chess piece being in an upright position, were added. This would complicate the design though, and still only be a temporary solution, as the batteries would need to be replaced eventually. This design (with the switch) does have one more advantage. It gives the chess pieces two states, on and off. I liked the idea of the chess pieces being illuminated while they were in play (upright and on the board), and dark while they were out (dead and off the board).
The final design I chose (which will be explained in more depth in the next step), was to have each piece contain an LED that would be powered by a conductive board. The board is plugged into an outlet, so there is no need to worry about the power running out. While the pieces are on the board they are "live" and illuminated, and while off the board they are "dead" and dark.
I made a stop motion animation of game six between Kasparov and Deep Blue. The animation does not end with checkmate, because when Kasparov saw that he was going to be beaten by a computer, he threw a hissy fit and stormed off.
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Signing UpStep 1: How it works
Sixteen blue LEDs and sixteen green LEDs are glued inside the hollow recesses in the base of each chess piece. The positive contacts for the LEDs are wired to copper washers attached to the base of each chess piece. The negative contacts for the LEDs are clipped to be made flush with the rest of the base.
A conductive chessboard is made from a sheet of copper. The sheet is wired to the positive lead from a power transformer. Insulated holes through the center of each square on the board allow magnets to pass through. The magnets connect and hold a negatively wired steel plate underneath to the negative leads from the LEDs.
A conductive chessboard is made from a sheet of copper. The sheet is wired to the positive lead from a power transformer. Insulated holes through the center of each square on the board allow magnets to pass through. The magnets connect and hold a negatively wired steel plate underneath to the negative leads from the LEDs.
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-Power-Transmission-Over-Short-Distances-U/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_power
What kind of protection is there to prevent it passing mains power if the "wall Wart" were to go wrong?
With both contacts flush with the surface of the board wouldn't you be risking a shock if you happened to touch it?
Why cover an already conductive steel plate with copper tape? (It just seems redundant)
Apart from these points, it's a beautifully documented project, than you for sharing it.
1.- Since the 'wall wart' uses a transformer inside to lower the voltage from 127VAC to 3VDC, the output wires are physically separated from the mains because transformers use two separate, electrically insulated coils of wire (they transfer energy via magnetic fields). If one of the coils happened to short out (this rarely happens during normal use), then yes, the power supply might blow up, but it would be extremely unlikely for it to pass the mains voltage to the output.
2.- The LEDs are operating on 3V. 3V is what you would get if you wired two AA batteries in series, and is way too low to give anyone a shock.
On the other hand, this would allow you to use colored plastic with all white leds, or use the 'superflux' type of leds, especially if using the copperclad board I suggested earlier.
Again, hats off to your inovation.
All in all, however, a MOST excellent idea and instructible.
the world chessboxing championship.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43Wcbd0dJpQ
http://site.wcbo.org/content/index_en.html
There are rules, but don't ask me what they are:)
about like this
I was wondering though:
1. Do you have to use copper and steel plates, or would any conductive metal work?
2. If you hooked this up to a battery would it still function? if so,how big of a battery would it have to be?
This chess set is super awesome.
2: it would have to be the right voltage, in this case 3V, wich is 2 AA or AAA's. might need 2 pairs in paralel to get enough juice to run it for the longer matches though or use a 9V battery with a 3.3V regulator (and some caps) like this one
in single colours it's always long = + short = -
so dan is prolly right, (s)he wired the power suply backwards