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Hi!

This is a project similar to the one already published, but upgraded. It consists of 64 LEDs and 90 columns, so the resolution is 5760 pixels.

I also used the shift registers, but 8 of them, one for every 8 LEDs. To transfer power to the shaft I used slip ring from the alternator.

The frequency is quite small, about 20 rps, which is about 1200 rpm.

Step 1: Materials

I hope I wont forget something, but everything should be here:

-64 LEDs

-Arduino Uno

-8 shift registers (74HC595)

-64 220 Ohm resistors

-Slip ring and brushes (from alternator)

-PVC pipe (18cm)

-Shaft (10mm)

-220V DC motor

-PWM

-Flat wires (for LEDs)

-Baearing

-2 switches

-5V power

-Aluminum sheet 2 mm

Step 2: Housing and the Ring

Housing is made from 2x2 cm square metal pipe.
The ring is end piece of PVC pipe, and it have 64 3mm holes for LEDs and two 10mm for shaft.
After painting and drilling i put it all together. On top is metal bearing, and on lower side is conected on the motor.

Step 3: Power, Shift Register and PWM

5V DC power, shift registers and PWM PCBs I made myself in Eagle. Here you have schemes of the circuit.

Step 4: Slip Ring

Slip ring is used for powering the shaft, it's easiest way to do it. Just be careful! It needs to be centered or you'll have breaks in power transfer. Because of this, your Globe won't work, so you'll need to put capacitor as big as you can buy.

Step 5: Putting All Together

Arduino Uno and PCB with shift registers are placed on fiberglass on the shaft. 5V DV power and PWM are in housing. You have only 3 wires from arduino to the shift registers PCB. LEDs and Arduino have the same source od power supply.

Step 6: Program

I just upgraded program that I find on Internet. You can make any picture or write something in few seconds. Pictures have 5 760 pixels(90x64).

Step 7: Final Result

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me on lluka.karnis@hotmail.com
And here is my video on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr-NJNhTUfI

<p>Hi! I am trying to figure out how I can pulse an LED at 80 times per second (4.8khz). Could you point me in the right direction?</p>
<p>Really like how this turned out. do you think the base could be made smaller?</p>
can you post your Excel program?
<p>how large could you made something like this?</p>
<p>I'm pretty sure you can go as big as you want</p>
<p>Thats right</p>
<p>looks like i gotta find someone to teach me how to do this! definitely want a couple but damn i have never made anything in my life! good job motivating me!</p>
<p>this is really cool - a larger one with just a bit more resolution would be great for fictional worlds </p>
<p>How complicated would you say the math is to make everything show up on time?</p>
<p>I think it's not very complicated ;)</p>
<p>Very neat project, and nicely implemented. I honestly think you could sell something like this (assuming someone else hasn't already patented it :-).</p>
<p>Thanks! I would like that, but dont know how :S</p>
<p>This must be one of the prettiest POV displays I've seen. May I ask from which device you've gotten the slip ring and brushes?</p>
<p>Thank you vrey much! It's from alternator :D</p>
<p>Nice project. I like POV stuff. </p><p>I had a thought. If you mounted all your electronics inside the rotating ring and put a magnet or two near the axis (on the stationary part) and a coil to pick up the field as it went past you could make a self contained self powered (minus the main motor) display.. Spin it up and it would start generating the power needed to drive the leds.. another way would be to use a pedal bike type dynamo as your top axis / bearing of the disk .. </p>
<p>Thank you for advice, I actually work on another one, but with 24 LEDs, and I want to minimise it, so I'll probably do it :D</p>
<p>There are very neat little sensors for magnetic fields such as the SS41F specifically made for applications like this. It's definitly worth a thought!</p>
<p>Thanks for advice! </p>
Great I hope you will post the results
<p>congrats again!.i have one question. Do You think It could be possible to represent the Evolution of the continents starting from Pangea to the actual ones?</p><p>Similar to that animation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaUk94AdXPA</p>
You can add memory chips to arduino, maybe that could be quick enough if the animation is small enough to be stored frame by frame in that buffer. <br>Anyway nice project, good ideas !
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>The best memory sollution in terms of capacity vs price is to add a microSD card. Although it uses SPI to be driven (which is already used for the shift registers in this applications) you could use the UART of the atmega328P in 'SPI master mode'. You can easily find details for driving an SD card via google.</p>
<div><pre>Thank you and thanks to the excellent idea! I'm thinking about making animation, but dont know how much memory I have, or how much images can be saved on the Arduino</pre></div>
<p>Awesome Project</p>
<p>Thank you very much!</p>
<p>This is very cool. Neatly done.</p><p>Is there any possibility to read a binary or grayscale image and display it like this hologram? What will be the requirements?</p>
<p>Thanks! Well I dont know, I think it's possible, but I didnt think about it</p>
<p>just looking at all those wires.. why not use dotstars or equivalent?! (APA102C chip..)</p>
<p>The chip within the LED case has it's own internal oscillator for pwm. The frequency is inaccurate and will jitter. Therfore you'd always see some kind of flicker with any POV display.</p>
<p>Luka!!!!!!!!!!!!! wonderful job. thanks for sharing</p>
<p>Thank you very much!</p>
<p>Cool - what about displaying a talking head?</p>
<p>I'ts a little more complicated , but not impossible ;)</p>
Good job! But, where is the arduino code?<br><br>
<p>On step 6</p>
<p>was there any problems with the rotation like wobble or vibration? A balanced sphere or wheel rotates easily but that &quot;loop&quot; besides the air resistance is a different thing.</p><p>uncle frogy</p>
<p>No, everything is very steady</p>
<p>Nice!</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>i love these projects why is it that for noobs like us you don't sell these in kit format or built i am sure like my self whould love one oof these in the house again brill keep the good work</p>
<p>That's what I ask too, but I thought about it, it has a lot of complications related series production. We will see what will happen in the future..</p>
<p>amazing job but also great song in the v&iacute;deo.whats the name of the song?</p>
<p>Thank you! Sweet Lovin' </p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qj5zT4t7S6c</p>
<p>thanks!!!!</p>
Reed switch does a good job for a sync pulse.
Dont you think it is too slow?
<p>Nope, as long as the rotation speed remain somewhere near constant then it doesn't matter is there is a slight delay. In fact by altering the delay you can make the image move around the globe.. triggering earlier to make it rotate clockwise and later for anti clock (or visa versa) .. the important thing about the sync is that it is consistent which I believe the reed will be.. Of course optical pickups etc etc can all be used but a lot of folk use commutators and the reed isn't going to be worse that that and in my opinion is quite a bit better.. a pick up on the equator obviosuly gives you more resolution.. </p>
<p>Don't you need a sensor to sense when it gets back to home position? I didn't see that in the schematic.</p>
No, I have potentiometer to control PWM for motor, so you can control picture with that

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