Introduction: Leather Flask

Picture of Leather Flask

Show ye olde style, while saving the earth by stopping the use of disposable waterbottles. Carry, the flask...

The flask is quite the fashion piece these days, just wait, soon ye'll see ye olde Lady Gaga wearing it... And nothing else... >barf<

Anyway, it's quite cool, and gets a lot of comments wherever you take it. So, jump on the train and make one yourself. This flask holds 3 cups of water (*or, 663 ml, or 23.4 fl oz) or if you prefer it can hold 23.4 fl oz of whiskey...

P.S. A note I forgot to add earlier. At first, the water stored in it for long amounts of time may get a leatherish/beeswax flavor to it. It isn't too bad, and it diminishes with use. When I make one I like to fill with water, let it set for several hours, and empty then repeat. this repeated for a few days will diminish much of the flavor.  (I personally kind of like it, but some people don't).

Step 1: Tools and Supplies

Picture of Tools and Supplies


  • Sharp knife
  • contact cement
  • marking tool (I use a fine tip sharpie)
  • two sewing needles
  • overstiching wheel (for marking sewing points)
  • edge beveler
  • drill or drill press with small bit (I use 3/32" but one size smaller might be better)
  • Optional - leather tooling tools (make it look cool!)
  • pattern


  • Heavy Veg Tanned leather (I believe mine was 10-11 oz)
  • False sinew
  • beeswax
  • paracord (I use it for a shoulder strap)
  • a wine cork
  • lentils (or small beans, or something like that, you just need something to hold the shape for it)

Step 2: Trace and Cut

Picture of Trace and Cut

Take your pattern (my dad helped me lay mine out in auutocad, and I printed it then glued it to a piece of cardboard which I cut to shape). Trace it onto the rough side of the leather, and cut it out. Then take the ONE cutout, lay it smooth side up on the rough side of leather, and trace it. This way even if you cut it wrong, the second side will fit.

Image notes still aren't working, so I'll add  important things down here.
Pic 2 - you can see a scratched out line, that was from a tracing I decided not to use
pic 3 - thats a pic of a hole in the leather that made me decide not to use the first tracing
Pic 10 - thats the design I use. You can copy it and size it how you want.

Step 3: Tooling

Picture of Tooling

This is instructable isn't about leather tooling (different one) so I'm not showing how I do it on this one. Decide what you want, and tool it, but do it deeply, the leather will be stretched later, and it could wash out light tooling.

I decided to go for a celtic knot on the front, and I stamped my logo on the back (sorry, I forgot to get a pic of the logo after stamping it)

Pic 1 - partially tooled celtic knot
pic 2 - the finished knot
pic 3 - larger pic of the finished knot

Step 4: Mark the Cork Area

Picture of Mark the Cork Area

this is important, you want the cork to fit nicely, so you need to do it right. Mark where you want to sew up to around the cork with this method. Take a strip of leather, wrap it around the cork, mark where it meets itself, and mark the middle of that distance. This way you have half the circumference of the cork. this is the distance you want it on your flask. Go ahead and also mark out the area you'll leave flat as well.

Step 5: Glue

Picture of Glue

take your contact cement, and glue a 1/4" around the outside, as well as the areas at the top you want to remain flat. Let them sit (apart) till the glue is nbearly dry to the touch. CAREFULLY stick them together, this stuff is tenacious, so be careful until it's in the right place. go ahead and take your mallet and tap the areas that got glued, you want them to stick together nicely.

After the glue is dry go ahead and use the overstiching wheel and mark the line around the flask to be sewn. Make sure to get the outside of the areas you want flat also. (sorry, forgot to get pics of this, but you'll see some of the marks the wheel makes in the next step).

Step 6: Drill

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Using the marks made by the overstiching wheel, drill a hole through each one. As you can see I clamp a board under the flask, that way the drill bit doesn't go into my drill press table. After the drilling is done, go ahead and chuck up a 80 grit flapwheel drum, use this to smooth out the edges and make them all even. Now, walk back to the house, realize you need to drill the big holes for the strap, and walk back to the barn. Go ahead and drill the large holes now.

Step 7: Sew

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I'm using the saddle stich here. Basically I take a long length of the sinew, put a needle on both sides, insert it into the first hole, pull it till it's centered, then feed both needles through the next hole (both goin different directions). Then do that on the next hole. keep going till you his the end. Go here for better instructions (start at step 8) the stuff before that we've already done). Make sure when you do this to pull it TIGHT, you want this to last forever. Also, I like to slightly dampen the leather when sewing, that way the sinew gets pulled into the leather and doesn't show as much, just makes it look nicer.

When you’re done sewing go ahead and run an edge beveller along the edge on both sides (front and back). You can do it before sewing, but I just did it after.

Step 8: "poof" It

Picture of "poof" It

This is where you make it poofy. Now, I didn't get as many pics of this as I'd like, but oh well.

Soak the flask in warm water, you want it good and pliable. go ahead and make sure the cork fits (if it doesn't you can sand the cork down some to make it fit, mine fit perfectly now, but I had to sand it down some). Now, blow into it a little to poof it out some, and start filling it with the lentils or whatever you decided to use. Take a wooden spoon or dowel, and start pushing out the sides, and ramming down the lentils. You want to fit in as many as possible. When you can't ram in any more, and it's as poofy as you can get it, fill it up to the top, and push the cork in. Let it dry with the cork in it (so it forms around the cork perfectly) overnight.

Pic 10 - the spoons I use. One is a thin store bought wooden spoon, it's good for pushing out the sides with it. The second is a thicker spoon I tried to carve years ago, it's not a good spoon, but it rams the lentils really well.

Pic 11 - closeup of the thick spoon for ramming.

Step 9: Empty

Picture of Empty

After a night of drying make sure that the flask is an even light tan. It needs to be completly dry before you move on. When it's dry go ahead and take out the cork, and pour the lenitls out. Next take some small bolts, nuts, or the like. put them in and and cover the top and shake like the dickens. pour them and the unstuck lentils. Do this several times. Now you take a long piece of stiff wire (i use clotheshanger) bend at little curl at the end, and run it all around the inside of the flask. Take a flashlight and look inside it and try to spot any more stuck lentils. Repeat the steps until all stuck lentils are gone.

Last pic - lentils that came out after the first shaking.

Step 10: Wax

Picture of Wax

this is the most important, and the most difficult step. Your goal is to get molten beeswax to soak into the leather. If you have a large amount of clean beeswax (I'm talking around 5 pounds) and a large pot to melt in, then you can just dip the flask in and soak it for a little. Unfortunately I don't have that much wax or a big enogh container. So, what I do is melt a bunch of wax, dip the flask in it, turn it over, and dip the other side. The wax will just cover it in a thick coat, not soak in. So we need to convince it to soak in. preheat your oven to 170 (NO MORE! You'll cook your leather and turn it shrivily if you do). Take a board of wood, drill a hole and insert a peg around 3-4" long. Sit board on a cookie sheet, and cover with foil (if this is your moms cookie sheet and you don't want to die). Go back to the flask that has a thick coating of wax, scrape off most of it and just toss it into the thing of wax. Now sit it on the board (over the peg) and put it in the oven. After 30 minutes or so (check it every 5 minutes, I have ruined 2 out of 5 this way, you have to be very careful) the wax should be melting off and soaking in. Once all the wax is gone, you should have a nice sheen left on it. Take it out, shake it to make sure there isn't any more wax inside that needs to come out. and wipe the outside with a paper towel, really rub it good, it'll take away the sheen, but you want it to.

Whew, that was long, read over it and make sure you have it all down. Once the waxing is done, perform a water test. fill it with water and see if it leaks. Mine leaked quite well form the seam on the bottom, so I have to seal the seam. Go to step 11 for this. If it doesn't leak, skip step 11.

image note: the last photo is what happens if the leather gets too hot. Don't let it get too hot.

Step 11: Sealing the Seam

Picture of Sealing the Seam

If it failed the leak test then you need to seal the seam better, to do this we melt a 1/4 cup or so of beeswax. Pour the beeswax into the flask, and turn it along the axis, that way the wax runs along the seam turn till it starts to pour out, then turn it the other way till it pours out. Dump out any remaining molten wax. It should have sealed it well by now. Fill with water and sit in a quite spot for several hours. If it leaks at all then repeat this step and test again.

Step 12: Strap

Picture of Strap

go ahead and put on the strap. I've seen it done several ways and with different materials. But I like black paracord, it looks nice, and you can do different things with it. To match the celtic knot I went ahead and took three long strands of paracord and did a basic braid. Then I threaded it through the first hole on the backside. then through the next hole. That way the knot is on the back. decide how long you want it, and then do the same on the other side at the length you want it.

The next and last step is to make a cool looking stopper. Continue on.

Step 13: The Stopper, Pt1

Picture of The Stopper, Pt1

Now, I like to add something to my corks to make them look nice. Take a piece of cedar, use a draw knife to cut it down to a little bigger than the cork, and cut off a piece as long as you want. Take the wood and the cork, drill a hole partly into each, fill them with epoxy and inserting the pin first, clamp them together. Sometimes for added strength I'll take a smaller drill bit and drill little divots around the pin.Those will fill with epoxy and make little epoxy pins. Also, for oily woods, I like to wipe the wood down with acetone before epoxying.

Step 14: Shaping the Stopper

Picture of Shaping the Stopper

Well, theres not much to say here. Just follow the photos. Once it gets to the finishing stage, I hand sand the wood to 600 grit, and then I "whisker" it. Whiskering is a method I learned from Alan Longmire, basically, when you have finesanded the wood you dampen it in water and let it dry, this raises the grain, now you rub it with a fine steel wool. This removes the "whiskers" and gives it a fine finish. Next I rub in boiled linseed oil, let it cure and repeat twice, then I finish it by rubbing in thinned down polyurethane. I also like to add a small pull string through the hole I drilled earlier.

Step 15: Use and Care

Okay, I have only ever used mine for water, but if you were to use something else it should be fine as long as you wash it with warm water when you're done. It is NOT dishwasher safe, do not use it for hot drinks, the beeswax could start to soften and leak. If you leave it in a hot car in the 120 degree weather, it might soften, I'm not sure as it hasn't happened to me. If it does soften at all, be very careful not to mess it  up, and fill it with some cool water to harden it again. That's about it, wash immedietly when using something other than water, as mold on the inside would be extremly difficult to remove. One last note, I have never gotten the stopper seal to be perfectly waterproof, when they were in use, they were either carried or hung, so it didn't matter. So, when you make or buy one, the stopper might leak slightly, that is expected. If it doesn't, then good job.


jopstad (author)2017-11-08

Hello, I made these two bottles. One is treated with beeswax the other one is ready to be waxed. No glue, no drill only hand tools and beeswax. The right one is 0.5L and the left is 0.6L. Made from the same model just refined the technique second time around.
Did not submerge in a huge lode of wax. I had around 0.25kg. Which was put it in a jar and melted in an water bath. It was then applyed with a paintbrush. Poured some inn and swirl around. Did this 2 times. Now it is completely sealed. Just keep watch!

Dabbling (author)2017-10-10

Decided I wanted to make something for myself out of leather - saw your instructable and there you go! Very enjoyable project, my second time using beeswax. I find I don't use enough beeswax/big enough bowl to submerge my items so I warm them in the oven before applying wax with a cleann paintbrush and using a hairdryer to finish! Had to pour wax inside though, couldn't paintbrush that! For the stopper I whittled a stick I found outside and applied beeswax to it - wasn't really sure what I was doing and the wax rubbed against the wax on the bottle which wasn't great. Applied some vaseline to the stopper though and now it's watertight (save for a seam that needs re-waxing)! Thanks very much :D

LoSkana made it! (author)2017-03-21

Hi! Many congratulations for the AWSOME 'ible! Just one question, I've made it and after the waxing I got this strange whitish color, can you help giving it a nice finish like yours?

Well, it's hard to say without seeing it, but I'd say to first start with balling up a rag, and dipping the end in boiling hot water, and rubbing the waxed leather vigorously with it. Hopefully this will melt the wax on the surface and help shine it up.

Let me know if this works, or helps at all.

Didn't work so much... In the end I buffed it with olive oil and I was able to get a nice finish!

ArizonaA1 (author)2017-02-27

thank you for your tutorial. I will make it. because in my city is central of leather. magetan Indonesia... wa +6283845754454

hikaru mounir (author)2016-06-11


Bill Belongia. (author)2016-04-04

Thanks for the great tutorial. I've done leather work for awhile, mostly simple things, but when I saw your bottle, I had to give it a try. Here is the results from my first try.

Thanks again.

Rhysmedforth (author)2016-01-05

would it not have been easier to turn the stopper on a lathe first

If I had a lathe... It probably would.

mwatt1 (author)2015-06-25

I think it is truly beautiful and as its maker unique. thank you for sharing. as the last poster I too own a leather crafting company. too that I make all kinds of leather goods it is to the customer's decision and specifications, all are happy. aging thank you for the wonderfully detailed instructable.

thegoldenjackal (author)2015-05-27

thanks for showing the how to use beeswax. i have just found out with my tinkering. that you can use a heat gun to melt and soak the bees wax in. it takes matter of secounds.

eclipsestorm (author)2015-01-08

do you have a pattern that can be printed out ? or rough dimensions?

eclipsestorm (author)2015-01-08

very nice job. will definitely be making one.

Me_of_course (author)2014-11-03

about how long does this take?

mrpmurphy (author)2014-10-09

This is beautiful, I'm looking forward to making my own attempt at it! Well done!

American Ruin (author)2014-09-24

Super awesome... I'm gonna make one for myself this Christmas.

picturesofsilver (author)2013-07-24

excellent instructable! thanks. I'm doing some leather journals & your design on the front caught my eye. This will help me with what I'm working on-

Vodika (author)2013-01-27

This is great, this is the kind of leather work I'm looking for, I will be starting one tonight and I will post what it looks like when I get done, and that was a good input about the Veg Tan instead of the Crome I would have never know

dustinandrews (author)2012-12-18

Thanks for this well done Instructable. I was able to make a flask on my first try. I used a laser to etch a pattern and cut the holes and edges. Next time I will cut smaller stitching holes. These were 3mm and way to big. I thing 1.5mm is plenty probably.

jamesriot (author)2012-12-14

Great results useful instructable!

jamesbritton (author)2012-12-06

I've decided this will be my next project with my 9 year old son. His will be a water flask, mine will be a "water of life" flask. Gorgeous!

curious youth (author)2012-01-14

hi great instructable ! ive been going through a few of yours now and you truly are a talented person. i was wondering if i made this a larger size (not exactly sure what size yet) would i also have to enlarge the hole ? or could i leave that at the same size ? also im just wondering how much damage this can take ? like how long would it last getting dropped/thrown to the ground ?
just a side note wouldnt embedding an o-ring into the stopper make it watertight ?

sircaptaintigerotter (author)2011-12-13

downright amazing

oldanvilyoungsmith (author)2011-08-01

As a note to some of the recent comments, the wax isn't to harden it, you're filling the leather pores with wax to waterproof it. The hardening is just a byproduct.

mephit (author)2011-04-24

Just as a note, you don't actually have to soak the leather in beeswax to harden it. The word for hardened leather is cuirbouilli. This is medieval French for "boiled leather." As far as we can tell today, the traditional method was indeed to dip the piece in boiling water for a particular length of time, but this takes a great deal of practice to do properly without ruining the leather.

With modern ovens and accurate thermostats, it's far easier to bake the wet leather instead of trying to actually boil it. Instead of shaping it first and then soaking in beeswax, soak the tooled and sewn leather in water. Soak it until it stops bubbling and no longer floats. This may take an hour or more. When you take it out of the water it'll be very floppy. Be careful not to damage any tooling you've done! Pack it full of warm, dry sand until you can't fit any more in, then cork the bottle. place it in your oven at a temperature of about 150 - 170 Deg F. Carefully bake until dry. This may take some experimentation. Once cooled, dump the sand out and clean the inside and you have a cuirbouilli bottle. This can then be treated with a coating of beeswax for waterproofing (or brewers pitch, or liquid epoxy, or whatever you choose).

This technique permanently and rather radically alters the leather at a molecular level. It causes the tannins in it to polymerize, making the leather more like a plastic. It will not soften in hot weather or if left in a car. In fact, if you take it too far and harden too much, you can make the leather so hard it becomes brittle and will crack if struck. With some practice you can make anything from slightly harder but still a bit flexible, to so hard it's like a piece of wood.

jdougherty2 (author)mephit2011-08-01

I have yet to try any of this, but I just recently read on other websites dedicated to leather that actually boiling it would cause irreparable harm, and suggest water no hotter than 180*F. (and they say it smells REALLY bad if you heat it at too high a temp.)
Like I said, though, I haven't actually tried it yet.

mephit (author)jdougherty22011-08-01

With modern technology, it's become possible not only to see what changes happen to the leather on a molecular level, but when. Because of this, we know the tannins polymerize at about 160 deg F. Of course, before the days of modern scientific equipment and precise temperature control, it would have been much harder to know exactly when this change happened. Whatever the details of it, our ancestors used the technique they knew worked, even if it might not be ideal by modern standards. But in simple fact you can certainly make hardened leather with boiling water. I've tried it myself before.

To some degree, I think it comes down to your definition of irreparable harm. For some people, I'm sure making the leather no longer flexible at all is harm because they have no experience with truly hardened leather. Wax "hardened" leather is often still somewhat flexible. It's rigidity comes from the wax being hard, not the leather itself hardening. The tannin polymerization seems to require water in some way not fully understood yet as dry leather won't harden when baked. Probably for some others, they haven't practiced it enough and had little blobs of former leather that would shatter like cheap plastic. Or they didn't realize that water-hardening leather will cause it to shrink by as much as a third of it's original dimensions and so wound up with something tiny. Or they didn't use wet enough leather and it started to burn instead of hardening. All those things could be considered irreparable harm but don't necessarily invalidate the technique itself. They just prove it's not an easy art to master!

Another thought that occurs to me is I also don't know what tannage of leather they were using. I've never had a bad smell from leather in boiling water for a short time (though burning leather smells pretty bad), but I've only ever used standard vegetable tanned tooling leather. I can't afford real oak bark pit-tanned leather or anything like that. Perhaps the somewhat different tanning methods could produce unpleasant smells.That's just a guess on my part, though.

The technique is worth a try, if you wish to practice it some. You'll almost certainly ruin all your early attempts, though, so don't get discouraged! I know my first attempt at a gorget was small enough for a child and snapped in half with my bare hands. It took several tries to get a workable neck armour, but I wound up with something quite usable in the end. I wish I had any pictures of it to show you, but I stopped using it many years ago and lost it shortly after.

RamcharanLeather (author)2011-07-06

Broberg; you can find Veg-tanned leather pretty easily. Try,,,, and sites like that.

I have business pricing with Tandy, and just bought about 6 square feet of veg-tanned for $7.99. Most of those sites you can buy by the square foot, sides, splits, etc.

Oldanvilyoungsmith, I would recommend specifying that you used vegetable tanned leather for this project, if someone mistakenly used chrome tanned or latigo it wouldn't work very well. For experienced leatherworkers, it became obvious when you stamped it that you either used veg-tanned or rawhide, but for someone just starting it would be nice to know.

Other than that, this is an AMAZING idea! I'll have to try that sometime soon, just have to get enough beeswax!

bajablue (author)2011-06-18

I see a lucrative Saddle-making career in your future! Love the impeccable detailing of this flask. EXCELLENT work!!!

I don't know, I'm more of a forger. I'm really into knifemaking, I just do some leatherwork for fun, I started doing it because I needed to make knife sheaths, and every once in a while I'll mess around with other stuff like this.

My dream would be to become a mastersmith (one of the most accomplished knifemakers in the world) someday. I figure that haveing started making knives at 16, I might be able to do it by 40.

As a thought though, a saddle might be an interesting project, maybe in a year or two, I might mess around with one, be cool to have a handmade saddle for my dad's tennesee walker.

Thanks for the compliments, always nice to hear that other people like some of my stuff.

(P.S. if you want to see some of the knives and such that I make, take a look at my blog -

I think you'll excel at whatever you set your mind to. Enjoy the journey!!!

Greg C. (author)2011-04-29

Hey, good to see you're on here as well as Bladesmith's forum. Great instructable, I'm going have to make one for a pre-1840 reenactment that I do.
Is this your first bottle? (not including the shriveled-up thing in the last photo)
I saw you posted it on DFogg forums, that was awhile ago.


Hey Greg, thought I was the only Dfogger except Ben Potter on here. Nice to see ya. No, this is my 3rd succesfull one (I've ruined two).


P.S. (for all otheres, we're referring to a knife makers forum, check it out if your knifemaking interested.

Thanks for the great link! Loads of great stuff on there. Beautiful flask by the way :)

Yep, I'm on here. Don't submit may instructables, but I sure take advantage of the wealth of info on this site :)

jamiec53 (author)2011-05-12

Wow. Just awesome!

just1jane (author)2011-04-24

Your design and execution are beautiful. Thank you for uploading this.

Thank you. And you're welcome.

acelsziv (author)2011-05-09

I have no words you are very smart. This flask is beautiful

Thank you

Sabata (author)2011-04-24

I recommend punching the holes through the leather rather than drilling them. That way, once it's all stitched up, the leather will sort of "heal" itself around the thread because you've only pushed the fibers aside instead of removing/cutting/tearing the fibers. The easiest way I've found to punch the holes is with your drill press. Nip the head off a finish nail, grind the point if necessary, chuck it up and punch away.

Great work, BTW!

Fred82664 (author)Sabata2011-04-24

Use a Awl not a hole punch ! The hole punch removes the plug of leather, It will not heal as you clam . Making the holes with a Awl is much different the tip of the Awl separates the flush like a snow plow pushing snow,,After stitching the leather craftsmen then will pound the the stitch line with a raw hide mallet to make the leather seal up around the thread or lacing . The pounding is pushing the flush fibres back to the it was moved from when the Awl pushed the the hole open. there is no heeling going on at all remember leather is just dead skin .

I do believe he knows it isn't literaly healing, he was just using a term. And he wasn't saying to use a punch either. But to use a sharp nail in my drill press to push through the leather (he said punch, but it does the same thing as an awl). By putting it in the drill press you can get more leverage.


well forgive me in using professional terms and lessons on a armature board. If the leather is cased properly you would not need such a power amplifying in leverage of a drill press in the first place ! I have worked with vary heavy leather in the rage of 18 ,19 OZ with ease when it is cased properly and your tools are in good condition it to is like working with wet clay. By the way A punch and an Awl are two different tools.

mephit (author)Fred826642011-04-24

Because of the confusion around the term, I've used the following definitions for years to be more specific when discussing making holes in leather. I suggest using the word pierce to describe using an awl as opposed to punching which is done with a punch or drill. As has been stated above, making the holes by drilling or using a leather punch will cut through fibres of the leather, weakening the hole. Using an awl (or the nail chucked into the drillpress as suggested above) pushes the fibres apart rather than tearing or cutting them, making for a much stronger hole and one which will much more readily seal when properly finished.

And indeed, working vegetable tanned leather wet will make piercing the holes much easier. I regularly use a simple, round hand awl (commonly called a prick awl) and put stitching holes in everything from 4 to 18 ounce leather with little trouble. I actually find it much easier than trying to drive a punch through the really thick leathers.

For simple repetition and ease, the drillpress idea should work well, though. I would definitely grind the point round and give it a sharper taper before hand, though. The faceted point of a standard nail would cut fibres like a knife as it is driven through the leather. Just put a piece of softwood like pine or a sacrificial cutting mat or board under the leather to keep from prematurely dulling the point of the ersatz awl and regularly check the point for sharpness. (These last two hold true whether you're working by hand or using a press)

Sabata (author)mephit2011-04-24

Sorry for the confusion. I did indeed mean to pierce the leather like one would do with an awl, not punch holes with a hole punch. :-p I was in a hurry earlier and just hammered out that comment before heading out the door.

While the added leverage of a drill press might not be necessary, it helps folks with less experience make their holes nice and straight like this | | | | | | | |. My first sheath's holes were made with a finishing nail and a hammer. The holes going through the leather looked like this... | | / | / \ \ \ / | / . I think you get the picture. Also, if someone already has a drill press in their garage, they can try out leather crafting without buying an awl they might not use again.

mephit (author)Sabata2011-04-29

My apologies if I implied you specifically were causing the confusion. It wasn't my intention. I just wanted to pass on my personal definitions of the terms in case they're helpful to others. Sorry!

Sabata (author)mephit2011-05-02

mephit, I appreciate that but there is no apology necessary from you! :) I could see right from the start that (as usual) Fred82664 was trolling and causing all the trouble.

Fred82664 (author)Sabata2011-04-25

Wow if that was your first set of holes you have no idea of craftsmanship! There are cheap was to mark your stitch line as for hole placement 1 a kitchen fork would make a set duvets in well cased leather much straighter alignment 2 any wall mart and many other places sell a tool called a stitching wheel under $5.00, all you do is role it along the stitch and the teeth will make a duvet where you put the hole. If wish to continue working in leather I highly suggest you get in to some books by Al Stomen. you can get them at Tandy or any leather supply shop. then do as it instructs. this will make your time and work much more of a vale to you and much better craftsmanship.

About This Instructable




Bio: Hi, I'm stephen, I'm a certified welder, working on my machinists cert, and working part time at a hardware store. Mixing in all ... More »
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