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Show ye olde style, while saving the earth by stopping the use of disposable waterbottles. Carry, the flask...

The flask is quite the fashion piece these days, just wait, soon ye'll see ye olde Lady Gaga wearing it... And nothing else... >barf<


Anyway, it's quite cool, and gets a lot of comments wherever you take it. So, jump on the train and make one yourself. This flask holds 3 cups of water (*or, 663 ml, or 23.4 fl oz) or if you prefer it can hold 23.4 fl oz of whiskey...


P.S. A note I forgot to add earlier. At first, the water stored in it for long amounts of time may get a leatherish/beeswax flavor to it. It isn't too bad, and it diminishes with use. When I make one I like to fill with water, let it set for several hours, and empty then repeat. this repeated for a few days will diminish much of the flavor.  (I personally kind of like it, but some people don't).
 
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Step 1: Tools and supplies

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Tools

  • Sharp knife
  • contact cement
  • marking tool (I use a fine tip sharpie)
  • two sewing needles
  • overstiching wheel (for marking sewing points)
  • edge beveler
  • drill or drill press with small bit (I use 3/32" but one size smaller might be better)
  • Optional - leather tooling tools (make it look cool!)
  • pattern
     

Supplies

  • Heavy Veg Tanned leather (I believe mine was 10-11 oz)
  • False sinew
  • beeswax
  • paracord (I use it for a shoulder strap)
  • a wine cork
  • lentils (or small beans, or something like that, you just need something to hold the shape for it)






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Vodika says: Jan 27, 2013. 1:28 PM
This is great, this is the kind of leather work I'm looking for, I will be starting one tonight and I will post what it looks like when I get done, and that was a good input about the Veg Tan instead of the Crome I would have never know
dustinandrews says: Dec 18, 2012. 1:17 PM
Thanks for this well done Instructable. I was able to make a flask on my first try. I used a laser to etch a pattern and cut the holes and edges. Next time I will cut smaller stitching holes. These were 3mm and way to big. I thing 1.5mm is plenty probably.
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jamesriot says: Dec 14, 2012. 1:04 AM
Great results useful instructable!
jamesbritton says: Dec 6, 2012. 9:43 AM
I've decided this will be my next project with my 9 year old son. His will be a water flask, mine will be a "water of life" flask. Gorgeous!
curious youth says: Jan 14, 2012. 3:26 AM
hi great instructable ! ive been going through a few of yours now and you truly are a talented person. i was wondering if i made this a larger size (not exactly sure what size yet) would i also have to enlarge the hole ? or could i leave that at the same size ? also im just wondering how much damage this can take ? like how long would it last getting dropped/thrown to the ground ?
just a side note wouldnt embedding an o-ring into the stopper make it watertight ?
cheers
sircaptaintigerotter says: Dec 13, 2011. 12:12 PM
downright amazing
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) says: Aug 1, 2011. 3:19 PM
As a note to some of the recent comments, the wax isn't to harden it, you're filling the leather pores with wax to waterproof it. The hardening is just a byproduct.
mephit says: Apr 24, 2011. 6:47 PM
Just as a note, you don't actually have to soak the leather in beeswax to harden it. The word for hardened leather is cuirbouilli. This is medieval French for "boiled leather." As far as we can tell today, the traditional method was indeed to dip the piece in boiling water for a particular length of time, but this takes a great deal of practice to do properly without ruining the leather.

With modern ovens and accurate thermostats, it's far easier to bake the wet leather instead of trying to actually boil it. Instead of shaping it first and then soaking in beeswax, soak the tooled and sewn leather in water. Soak it until it stops bubbling and no longer floats. This may take an hour or more. When you take it out of the water it'll be very floppy. Be careful not to damage any tooling you've done! Pack it full of warm, dry sand until you can't fit any more in, then cork the bottle. place it in your oven at a temperature of about 150 - 170 Deg F. Carefully bake until dry. This may take some experimentation. Once cooled, dump the sand out and clean the inside and you have a cuirbouilli bottle. This can then be treated with a coating of beeswax for waterproofing (or brewers pitch, or liquid epoxy, or whatever you choose).

This technique permanently and rather radically alters the leather at a molecular level. It causes the tannins in it to polymerize, making the leather more like a plastic. It will not soften in hot weather or if left in a car. In fact, if you take it too far and harden too much, you can make the leather so hard it becomes brittle and will crack if struck. With some practice you can make anything from slightly harder but still a bit flexible, to so hard it's like a piece of wood.
jdougherty2 in reply to mephitAug 1, 2011. 12:52 AM
I have yet to try any of this, but I just recently read on other websites dedicated to leather that actually boiling it would cause irreparable harm, and suggest water no hotter than 180*F. (and they say it smells REALLY bad if you heat it at too high a temp.)
Like I said, though, I haven't actually tried it yet.
mephit in reply to jdougherty2Aug 1, 2011. 1:16 PM
With modern technology, it's become possible not only to see what changes happen to the leather on a molecular level, but when. Because of this, we know the tannins polymerize at about 160 deg F. Of course, before the days of modern scientific equipment and precise temperature control, it would have been much harder to know exactly when this change happened. Whatever the details of it, our ancestors used the technique they knew worked, even if it might not be ideal by modern standards. But in simple fact you can certainly make hardened leather with boiling water. I've tried it myself before.

To some degree, I think it comes down to your definition of irreparable harm. For some people, I'm sure making the leather no longer flexible at all is harm because they have no experience with truly hardened leather. Wax "hardened" leather is often still somewhat flexible. It's rigidity comes from the wax being hard, not the leather itself hardening. The tannin polymerization seems to require water in some way not fully understood yet as dry leather won't harden when baked. Probably for some others, they haven't practiced it enough and had little blobs of former leather that would shatter like cheap plastic. Or they didn't realize that water-hardening leather will cause it to shrink by as much as a third of it's original dimensions and so wound up with something tiny. Or they didn't use wet enough leather and it started to burn instead of hardening. All those things could be considered irreparable harm but don't necessarily invalidate the technique itself. They just prove it's not an easy art to master!

Another thought that occurs to me is I also don't know what tannage of leather they were using. I've never had a bad smell from leather in boiling water for a short time (though burning leather smells pretty bad), but I've only ever used standard vegetable tanned tooling leather. I can't afford real oak bark pit-tanned leather or anything like that. Perhaps the somewhat different tanning methods could produce unpleasant smells.That's just a guess on my part, though.

The technique is worth a try, if you wish to practice it some. You'll almost certainly ruin all your early attempts, though, so don't get discouraged! I know my first attempt at a gorget was small enough for a child and snapped in half with my bare hands. It took several tries to get a workable neck armour, but I wound up with something quite usable in the end. I wish I had any pictures of it to show you, but I stopped using it many years ago and lost it shortly after.
RamcharanLeather says: Jul 6, 2011. 1:09 AM
Broberg; you can find Veg-tanned leather pretty easily. Try www.tandyleatherfactory.com, www.deadcowleathersupply.com, www.tanglefoottraders.com, www.leathersupply.com, and sites like that.

I have business pricing with Tandy, and just bought about 6 square feet of veg-tanned for $7.99. Most of those sites you can buy by the square foot, sides, splits, etc.

Oldanvilyoungsmith, I would recommend specifying that you used vegetable tanned leather for this project, if someone mistakenly used chrome tanned or latigo it wouldn't work very well. For experienced leatherworkers, it became obvious when you stamped it that you either used veg-tanned or rawhide, but for someone just starting it would be nice to know.

Other than that, this is an AMAZING idea! I'll have to try that sometime soon, just have to get enough beeswax!
bajablue says: Jun 18, 2011. 9:07 AM
I see a lucrative Saddle-making career in your future! Love the impeccable detailing of this flask. EXCELLENT work!!!
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to bajablueJun 18, 2011. 1:29 PM
I don't know, I'm more of a forger. I'm really into knifemaking, I just do some leatherwork for fun, I started doing it because I needed to make knife sheaths, and every once in a while I'll mess around with other stuff like this.

My dream would be to become a mastersmith (one of the most accomplished knifemakers in the world) someday. I figure that haveing started making knives at 16, I might be able to do it by 40.

As a thought though, a saddle might be an interesting project, maybe in a year or two, I might mess around with one, be cool to have a handmade saddle for my dad's tennesee walker.

Thanks for the compliments, always nice to hear that other people like some of my stuff.


(P.S. if you want to see some of the knives and such that I make, take a look at my blog - eagleeyeforge.blogspot.com)
bajablue in reply to oldanvilyoungsmithJun 19, 2011. 9:44 AM
I think you'll excel at whatever you set your mind to. Enjoy the journey!!!
Greg C. says: Apr 29, 2011. 8:26 AM
Hey, good to see you're on here as well as Bladesmith's forum. Great instructable, I'm going have to make one for a pre-1840 reenactment that I do.
Is this your first bottle? (not including the shriveled-up thing in the last photo)
I saw you posted it on DFogg forums, that was awhile ago.

Greg


oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to Greg C.Apr 29, 2011. 10:30 AM
Hey Greg, thought I was the only Dfogger except Ben Potter on here. Nice to see ya. No, this is my 3rd succesfull one (I've ruined two).

Stephen.


P.S. (for all otheres, we're referring to a knife makers forum, check it out if your knifemaking interested. Bladesmithsforum.com)
jamiec53 in reply to oldanvilyoungsmithMay 12, 2011. 1:50 PM
Thanks for the great link! Loads of great stuff on there. Beautiful flask by the way :)
Greg C. in reply to oldanvilyoungsmithApr 29, 2011. 3:45 PM
Yep, I'm on here. Don't submit may instructables, but I sure take advantage of the wealth of info on this site :)
jamiec53 says: May 12, 2011. 1:11 PM
Wow. Just awesome!
just1jane says: Apr 24, 2011. 11:14 AM
Your design and execution are beautiful. Thank you for uploading this.
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to just1janeMay 9, 2011. 6:35 PM
Thank you. And you're welcome.
acelsziv says: May 9, 2011. 1:36 PM
I have no words you are very smart. This flask is beautiful
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to acelszivMay 9, 2011. 6:35 PM
Thank you
piraticalstyle says: Apr 26, 2011. 2:35 PM
This is by far the most helpful and most timely instructable I have come across. I was looking at doing one of these for myself and was trying to figure out all the steps needed before I started. You've made it all simple and understandable. Thanks so much!!!
Question though. I don't have beeswax on hand. How comparable is paraffin? I'm going to order up some beeswax and pitch to mix up a nice coating but I don't want to wait to get started.
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to piraticalstyleApr 26, 2011. 3:19 PM
I don't know about paraffin. I've never used it before. I don't think it would make it not work, but don't quote me.

Stephen
piraticalstyle in reply to oldanvilyoungsmithApr 27, 2011. 8:47 AM
Thanks for your honesty. I think I'll give it a try. My bottel is drying now. Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible for any catastrophic failures on my part. :D
KittyF says: Apr 24, 2011. 1:58 PM
did you put wax into the inside as well?
and second question, why not just let the leather swell with water and seal the seams? wouldn't that keep the water cool as you carried it by evaporation?
jongscx in reply to KittyFApr 25, 2011. 8:22 AM
soaking leather with water is a good way to have it start delaminating and will eventually destroy it. That's why you put wax to seal out the water.
KittyF in reply to jongscxApr 26, 2011. 3:45 PM
Oh, right, I wasn't thinking about that. thanks.
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to KittyFApr 24, 2011. 5:49 PM
Question #1

Yes, I do put wax inside it. Thats part of the dipping. If you on't dip and pour the wax over it, you need to pour it inside it and cover the inside with the wax. If you get too muich in there, it will melt out, part of why you cook it. (carefully)

Question #2

I don't know, if it had a very very tight seam maybe, And as to cooling through evaporation, I have heard of putting a woolen wrap around flasks, and soaking those when filling.
KittyF in reply to oldanvilyoungsmithApr 25, 2011. 5:34 AM
yes, that's a good method. my dad has a military canteen from the fifties or sixties which has one and we used to go all day hiking and digging for rocks and had cool water to drink cause he would wet down the canteen cover every now and then. best water there was on a hot day.
vbanaszak says: Apr 26, 2011. 12:51 PM
I realy enjoyed your instructable! I must say you have learned some great life skills for such a young man. Kudos to you. Keep up the good work!
NaturalCrafter says: Apr 25, 2011. 2:43 PM
I love the finished look of this project. Very nice
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to NaturalCrafterApr 26, 2011. 3:59 AM
Thank you.
SinSpawn says: Apr 25, 2011. 8:16 PM
Question, in the waxing step if you can completely immerse the flask in wax to soak it then is it necessary to bake it after that?
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to SinSpawnApr 26, 2011. 3:59 AM
If you can immerse it deep enough, then you should be able to soak it until the leather is beeswax soaked, not coated. I believe you should watch for small bubbles rising. When they stop rising it should be soaked through. Then you just have to wipe off a thin film, not a thick coating like you see on mine before cooking. Just make sure you dump the wax out of it when removing from the wax bath.
Eirinn says: Apr 26, 2011. 12:55 AM
Well done!
I wish i had use for one of these - i really do, but i invested in a non BPA (so forth and so forth) drinking flask a few years ago. Maybe when it's not usable anymore i'll make one of these.

How easy is it to clean? It must get a bit yucky inside after awhile.

In any case this is a gem for all those live roleplayers out in the woods - they gotta love this. I know i would :)

oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to EirinnApr 26, 2011. 3:54 AM
I haven't had to clean mine. I only use water, and I rinse it with hot water (not to hot, you don'twant to melt the wax) when I finish using it, and let it air dry. I haven't had a problem with any mold or such.
KittyF says: Apr 24, 2011. 2:09 PM
had you thought of a length of leather, rolled and glued or just tied with a string as a stopper? I'd think that'd be VERY authentic, cool looking and possibly water proof (if it weren't waxed as well), since the leather would swell when wet.

Just a thought.
oldanvilyoungsmith (author) in reply to KittyFApr 25, 2011. 11:45 AM
That sounds like a good idea, I'll have to expirement with it some.
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