Make a collapsable table for concerts in the park! by Marsh
Featured
table.jpg
We saw this table, currently offered by Crate & Barrel, at concert in the park. We couldn't resist cloning it.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Bill of materials

1 ea. 48" x 7/8" wooden dowel
3 ea. 2" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
1 ea. 1" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
4 ea. 1/4-20 x 1" Carriage bolts
4 ea. 1/4-20 brass threaded insert nuts
4' x 1" nylon web belt
1/4" staples
1-40 of 54Next »
bschless says: Feb 21, 2013. 6:23 AM
Lovely! Thank you!
shazni says: Apr 4, 2012. 1:20 PM
can this be made bigger...like a 8' by 3' table with say 6 legs? only i'm wondering about the surpport slats...how long can they be made?
Marsh (author) says: Apr 5, 2012. 5:09 AM
My friend mad one 3' x 6' out of aluminum slats. It tuned out pretty nice. Sorry, no pix.
shazni says: Apr 6, 2012. 4:55 AM
Thanks...so would it be able to carry weight if i use 2x2 say 4 feet for legs? and say 1/2" thick wood for slats?...would love to make a easy table as this so i can set it up and lay my food when i have a party.
JimQPublic says: Aug 3, 2011. 4:51 PM
Great description! Once I figure out how to support longer legs I may make a few for camping. Our car is too small for most folding tables.
Woody71 says: Jun 20, 2011. 9:40 AM
Love this 'ible!

I'd like to make the legs a bit longer to use as a taller side table. Any suggestions on how to stabilize the legs to minimize wobble?

Thanks!! :-)
san39153 says: Apr 19, 2011. 5:24 AM
This is great! I had the idea to build one of these after I went on a week long canoe trip down the Mississippi river with a professional guide. Then I found these great instructions! Way more economical than what I was originally considering (http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2717).


I did find one very helpful improvement to the original instructions. I believe the object in this picture is called a locking blind T-nut. It is much easier to install than threaded inserts and will definitely go on straight. They can be found at Lowes in the Hardwear > Furniture Parts section. Less than $1 each. Pre-drill a hole in each leg, put a few drops of gorilla glue around the pre-drilled hole, then hammer one of these nuts on top your hole (gently, so your leg doesn't split).


The only thing to double check is that the size of your dowel leg is big enough to hold the T-nut, because the locking teeth on the nut need some extra room to bite down.


Good luck and happy tinkering!
200983021512211.gif
cullenroy says: Apr 13, 2011. 5:53 PM
this agreat table for many uses. A short piece of webbing looped and stapled to the bottom of an end slat makes for a fine handle.
robertblacksmith says: Oct 10, 2010. 4:03 PM
cool idea. a friend gave me the roll up top to a camp table he broke the legs on. i'm half way done!! lol
magpie21 says: May 21, 2010. 2:03 PM
 I've been wanting to get one of those collapsable camping tables to use when I'm out with my telescope. Instead of buying one, I'll just modify the dimensions a little on this one.
static says: Jun 13, 2009. 11:20 PM
Nice project. Scrounge up some fancy turned or tapered legs, and you maybe permitted to make camp in the upscale, uppity section of the park. :)
oakspoor says: May 20, 2010. 8:00 PM
Stair balusters can be picked up at Lowe's or HD for a reasonable price;

http://www.lowes.com/pd_118-746-CH5016_0_?productId=3050091&Ntt=baluster&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntk=i_products$rpp=30$No=90$Ntt=baluster$identifier=

These can be trimmed to length and stained to make a very snooty leg.
YesterdaysFish says: Oct 16, 2009. 6:33 AM
I loved this Instructable and decided to build a table of my own.  I made a couple of changes to the original design.  Instead of using metal hardware, I turned the legs into "bolts" using a wood threader and made nuts to keep them in place.  Each leg has two nuts, one below the table's surface and bottom bar and another above it. The table is pretty stable and can be leveled at each corner, making it pretty adjustable.

Instead of using plain nylon strapping, I used some inexpensive car tie-downs.  The strap's buckle hangs about 1/2" off the edge of the table.  The rest of the strap is left long at the opposite edge.  Doing it this way, lets me roll up the table's surface, legs and bottom bars into a secure, self contained package.

For good measure, I also added some rubber tips to prevent the dowels from picking up moisture or dirt.

Thanks for the inspiration, Marsh.  My wife and I love this thing!
assembled.jpgthreads.jpg
yoyology says: May 20, 2010. 8:07 AM
That is gorgeous!  Love the threaded wood.
PAWZ says: May 20, 2010. 2:40 AM
Only yesterday I saw this aluminium one advertised to be on sale soon in Lidl, £29.99, and thought it was a great idea, and today I see yours!
www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_10993.htm
It wont be there long so I'll add the pics too.

As I read this I cant help notice that next to me is a dismantled shelving unit, that has been lying in wait for me to make use of, and is already made up of lattice planks, perfect for this job, which means I'm already half done :-D Hooray!
Great instructable :-)
UK_45900_01_b.jpgUK_45900_02_v_20100512132239.jpg
jlwaf123 says: Aug 30, 2009. 4:30 PM
Looking for hardwood lattice? I just bought 1/4" poplar at Home Depot and then treated with exterior grade poly spray.
Ricardo Furioso says: Aug 3, 2009. 12:51 PM
Can you please say where you found the hardwood lattice? Everything else seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for a nice Instructable.
Marsh (author) says: Aug 3, 2009. 7:13 PM
And cheaper.
Marsh (author) says: Aug 3, 2009. 6:03 PM
I got it at Lowe's and it was kinda' pricey. Later, we ran a workshop where we ripped down Kiln Dried Doug Fir for the lattice. Those were actually quite a bit stronger.
kidproquo says: Aug 2, 2009. 8:37 PM
You should really use mineral oil. Olive oil will rot and stink. The mineral oil is also edible so you don't have to worry about eating off of the table.
rveinot says: Jul 28, 2009. 10:54 AM
If you use a metal cross dowel instead of the brass insert, they are a whole lot easier to put in. Just be sure to epoxy the cross dowel in place to stay put, or maybe wrap the leg with a piece of the nylon strap to hold it in the cross hole. Cross dowels are slightly strong, too.
browncar says: Jul 22, 2009. 2:42 AM
Love the project .These brass fittings are great. Where did you find them ? Are they easily available?
Marsh (author) says: Jul 22, 2009. 4:40 AM
They were at Lowes. I've since found aluminum units at Home Depot that are less expensive and screw in with an allen wrench for easier alignment.
bettbee says: Jul 18, 2009. 4:00 PM
Wow. This is a DAMN fine instructable! Your table looks every bit as nice as the one on Crate and Barrel's website and I plan to make several for plein art work. Thanks!
twinbrook says: Jul 9, 2009. 3:51 PM
you could actually use slats off of pallets for your lattice pieces.
jlwaf123 says: Jun 20, 2009. 10:19 AM
Great project! Thanks very much. To make mine more like the Crate & Barrel original I used hanger bolts in the legs (easier to install than threaded inserts) and connector bolts on the top (using expoxy). The other advantage is there's no loose hardware (carriage bolts) to keep track of. I also put rubber feet on the bottom of the legs.
spaetzlemeister says: Jun 13, 2009. 1:23 PM
Great Idea, I need a couple of these for camping in a couple weeks!! THANKS
nolte919 says: Jun 12, 2009. 10:08 AM
Crossdowels could possibly be used to attach the legs. I've never used them but I've heard they're really strong and might be easier than your threaded inserts.

I might have to make a table like this for camping.
agg says: Jun 11, 2009. 9:38 PM
Put the proper size nut onto one carriage bolt, and run it up to about 1/2" up from the bottom end. Screw the bolt into a threaded insert until the nut bottoms out on the top of the insert. Using the appropriate wrench on the nut, this is your tool for installing the insert. I do this all of the time except that I use hex head bolts so that I can use a box end wrench.
srilyk says: Jun 11, 2009. 1:16 PM
An easy way to add strength to this (and you could do it with your existing one) is add two slats at 90 degrees to the two long support slats, so the edge is supporting the weight. If you wanted them removable you could probably hinge them and just have a few pins to keep it sturdy. I'm really looking forward to getting into a house so I can start building all these fun things!
Marsh (author) says: Jun 11, 2009. 4:45 PM
Don't let the lack of a house keep you from small projects like this. All the wood could have been cut in the lumber isle at home depot with their miter box and saw. Also, I'm diggin' the hinged leg idea some folks have proposed which would eliminate the need for a vice.
bmorse14 says: Jun 11, 2009. 4:27 PM
An easier way to thread these in is to nut and a bolt with the same thread size as the inside of the insert. Thread the nut onto the bolt first, then thread the bolt into the insert so it does not stick out the bottom. Tighten the nut up to the insert, now you can turn the bolt and it will drive the insert. If the nut slips, use two nuts jammed together up against the insert.
schmoopie says: Jun 11, 2009. 1:44 PM
Definately a must do!
jwpq49 says: Jun 11, 2009. 1:18 PM
What great instructions. I think I'll have to build one this weekend. I think it'll be perfect for all those times I'm at the beach, park, camping, etc and wish i had a table... Thanks!
bluetonesblue says: Jun 11, 2009. 12:22 PM
I have seen these tables before & thought they were a great idea. Seeing how easy they are to construct, I think I've found my 1st "Constructable-Instructable". Thanx!!
Scubabubba says: Jun 10, 2009. 8:14 AM
The easiest way I've figured out to install those inserts is to use the appropriate size hex-head bolt, like so: 1) put a nut on the bolt and run the nut up close to the head. 2) run the bolt/nut combo into the insert until the bolt is just shy of protruding from the back side of the insert 3) snug up the nut on the face of the insert. Hand-tight is all you need. This locks everything down. 4) use the protruding hex head to run the insert into the wood. 5) put a wrench on the nut and another on the bolt and back the nut off the insert 6) remove the bolt/nut combo from the insert. If the nut spins when you try to install the insert, you might try a star lock washer between the nut & the insert.
RichardBronosky says: Jun 11, 2009. 11:11 AM
Beat me to it. You are exactly correct. They shouldn't even put the slit in those things. They don't put self destruct buttons on other hardware, why do it to these? ;-)
Marsh (author) says: Jun 10, 2009. 4:43 PM
Thanks for the tip. I like the deep socket idea.
Scubabubba says: Jun 10, 2009. 8:25 AM
If you've got a deep socket, you can use that to grab both the bolt head & nut at the same time and you won't have to fool with tightening it or using the star washer. Don't try it with just a bolt, if it jams it'll pull the insert out when you try to back it out.
Scubabubba says: Jun 10, 2009. 8:21 AM
I forgot to say what a great project that is! I've got a bunch of recycled futon slats that I'm going to try it with.
1-40 of 54Next »
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!