Usually, there are two main kinds of sculpting tools-the stick-like variety which usually are used for adding material, and loops which are used for taking away. They are not that expensive to buy, but there are some great tools which are not easily found but easily made. It's fun, too.
This article will show you how to make your own loop tools from scratch. Loops can be all shapes and sizes depending on the scale of the job. For blocking out life size figures, you will need something bigger, and for fine lines and wrinkles on prosthetics you'll need something smaller. The principle remains the same.
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Signing UpStep 1Get your materials together
You will need
" Brass or aluminium tubing
" Piano wire
" Bass guitar strings
" 5 minute, 2-part epoxy resin
" Wire wool or a dish-scouring pad
" Pliers
" Small adjustable pipe cutter, or a craft knife or blade (such as a Stanley knife)
Bass strings are available in different thicknesses (I have no musical knowledge at all, so could not tell you what notes to pick. Choose a selection if in doubt). They work well as the wire-bound string scratches little lines into the surface of your clay, skimming the surface without sinking in or creating little scoops.
The result is a three-dimensional cross-hatch effect which gradually smoothes forms without flattening them.
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You can get very fine piano wire, though. It is after all, for pianos and the higher notes have thinner strings. I've never needed anything thinner than an acupuncture needle, as detail that small is then wrinkles (pressed in through plastic sheet such as ceran wrap or plastic bag) rather than 'carved'.
These particular tools are mainly for removing material or smoothing. For tiny lines, try a sewing needle point either as is or held in a pin vice (from a model makers, or postiche (wig makers) suppliers or craft store). You can push thin lines of varying degree into the surface. Use plastic to avoid getting hard 'burr' lines at the very edge of the line as you drag the sharp tip through your clay or plasteline.