For this project I am only going to use 18 of the solar cells for the array I am building. The array will be able to charge a 12 volt 10 watt hour battery in a day. The total cost of building this array is about 5 dollars, a comparable array or solar cell can run you 60 dollars.
Since all the parts are salvaged, I will test every thing every step of the way, I don't want to completely assemble the array only to find out one of the components I used is faulty.
For testing you will need a multimeter.
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Signing UpStep 1The Lights.
I took them apart and kept the tops with the solar cells and electronics.
At this point you don’t need tools all the parts clip or press together.
The white spot next to the solar cell or in the solar cell is a photovoltaic cell the photovoltaic is used to set the light into charging or lighting mode.
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Try not to mix different makes of cells in string series to be sure you don’t create an over current in a cell in the string or the string may fail if a cell burns out.
With solar cells, you should always have a diode to prevent a back current from batteries and the other strings of solar cells in the array hooked up in parallel.
Back currents can drain your battery at night or burn out a cell string even when you are not using the array.
There is a voltage drop across a diode, try to pick a diode with the smallest voltage drop.
Small cells like the ones I used create a small current so if you use diodes rated for 1 amp you should be safe.
Make sure the diode is rated for a voltage greater than the string voltage generated by the string, the 1N5819 Schottky Diode is a good diode it is rated for 40 volts and has a voltage drop of less than 1 volt.
High-speed diodes have the small voltage drops and Germanium diodes have voltage drops as low as .45 volts.
Last seal up the array so morning mist and rain wont short out the array, you wont believe how many commercially available solar cells cannot be let get wet.
Hope this is helpful
Joe
Well done sir.
It will probably be about 150 ~ 200 mA....
Metal oxidezes. And oxidation isn't caused by UV light, it's caused by water and oxigen.
Joe
My array produces 200W @ 11A.
I charge 2 Deep Cycle Marine batteries and run them through an inverter to
power a 625W device.
If I wire them differently I can get 220V out of them.
I get a much larger wattage.
I x V = W
1.18a x 22v = 25.96 watts
25.96w x 10 = 259.6 watts
If you connect them in series you should get 220 volts at 1.18 amps and 259.6 watts.
You can connect them together two different ways.
I have commercially available solar cells.
Try not to mix different makes of cells in string series to be sure you don’t create an over current in a cell in the string or the string may fail if a cell burns out.
With solar cells, you should always have a diode to prevent a back current from batteries and the other strings of solar cells in the array hooked up in parallel.
Back currents can drain your battery at night or burn out a cell string even when you are not using the array.
There is a voltage drop across a diode, try to pick a diode with the smallest voltage drop.
Small cells like the ones I used create a small current so if you use diodes rated for 1 amp you should be safe.
Make sure the diode is rated for a voltage greater than the string voltage generated by the string, the 1N5819 Schottky Diode is a good diode it is rated for 40 volts and has a voltage drop of less than 1 volt.
High-speed diodes have the small voltage drops and Germanium diodes have voltage drops as low as .45 volts.
Last seal up the array so morning mist and rain wont short out the array, you wont believe how many commercially available solar cells cannot be let get wet.
Hope this is helpful
Joe