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Making a custom Platinum Diamond engagement ring

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by chrisparry
 

introMaking a custom Platinum Diamond engagement ring

So, I am a professional jeweller.

http://www.chris-parry.co.uk

I also sell some items on http://www.chrisparry.etsy.com

If you are realy bored, you can visit my flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/chris-parry/

A client wanted a traditional design for his engagement ring.

This instructable shows you how his ring was created using the lost wax casting system.

To begin with I cut a section of jewellers wax, ( a special wax that has great properties for cutting, sawing and carving) into the basic ring shape. I created a hole the same size required for the finished ring.
Making a custom Platinum Diamond engagement ring
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step 1Seating the diamond.

The 5mm princess cut diamond is set into its postition in the ring.

I decided how high the diamond was to sit, then using small engraving tools, I cut a square hole for the diamond to sit in.

You can also make out lots of faint white lines on the wax ring blank. These will determine which partsof the wax are to be cut away to form the shape of the ring.
Seating the diamond.
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169 comments
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Mar 21, 2010. 8:09 PMR1Ch0 says:
how much for a block of jewelers wax?
May 30, 2010. 9:59 PMlampworkz says:
look up carving wax. the more hard the wax is, the more brittle it will be. for really detailed work, you want the hardest wax.
May 30, 2010. 9:52 PMlampworkz says:
thats a great instructable. i used to work in a ring manufacturing plant. i was the "detail department." we made high school, collage championship and some superbowl rings. i was quality control at the end of the line before the wax rings went to tree-up (where they put all the rings on sprues, it looks like a tree and they invest and cast about 20-30 rings at once). sometimes i'd have to add wax to the shanks of the rings and re-carve letters or whatever got messed up. really cool job, as i love to work with the tiniest (sp?) most detailed things. got laid off...gold prices today :/
May 25, 2010. 9:00 PMbiker53 says:
Hi. Really interesting regarding the wax model. 
My jeweler has made a wax model for the platinum ring that will be made. It is wide, at approx. 14.5mm at the top which tapers gradually to 8mm at the bottom (shank.) The finished ring will weigh approx. 26dwt.
He rounded the inside edge of the wax.  Will this enable the ring to spin around on my finger compared to if he left the inside edge squared?
I have other rings with squared (not rounded) inside edges which do not spin on my finger, which is how I like it, and was wondering if a rounded edge would have the opposite effect.
Thank you for any guidance.
Mar 23, 2010. 12:20 AMTape-structable says:
Beautiful.
Mar 20, 2010. 3:22 PMsteveo625c6 says:
They actually showed this process on I think "How Stuff Works" (On Discovery Channel).  It was really incredible to watch.  Wish I had the tools/skills/materials to do this myself.
Mar 20, 2010. 8:26 PMsora005 says:
 it was how its made, and yes that would be a fun hobby
Feb 5, 2010. 10:53 PMratdude117 says:
Wait, I have a question. So, this big block of rubber has your carefully carved piece of wax inside it, and you start slicing it in half with a knife? This sounds scary. Aside from experience and care, is there a technique or something to keep you from scratching or cutting the outside of your piece?
Mar 14, 2010. 7:05 AMCaseBoy says:
 see the big block of rubber is a mold, so you don't really need the carved wax. 
Feb 18, 2010. 5:42 PMberky93 says:
I don't know about preserving the original, but considering it is a mold, as long as you cut precisely you could simply re-mold a new one out of wax, this time with the mold already sliced in two for easy access to the ring.
Mar 21, 2010. 9:15 AMRossiroller says:
 there are ways to make to mold with the slice already in it, by pouring half, then pouring the other half..... but in this case, because of the air holes, i dont see how you could cut the mold in half without having to cut the ring in half...... i guess thats why im not a jeweler!
May 30, 2010. 4:19 PMDavidRobertson says:
 simple - lay the ring on its side
Mar 2, 2010. 4:53 PMmonkban says:
Coming to this a bit late... but... You noted at the top of this that you "created a hole the same size required for the finished ring." This is actually an important step to understand, especially for the novice. Did you use something like a Matt Ring Tube Sizer? Thanks!
Feb 15, 2010. 11:07 PMrccollections says:
 Would like to know, how long it takes to make a custom three stone platinum ring?

Can some one answer this question?

Thanks
Nov 28, 2009. 11:55 AMfatimagrrl says:
 i have a question.. if you wanted to make several rings in different sizes...would you would have to make each wax mold per size then to duplicate them create a rubber mold for each of them? or there an easier way?
Sep 23, 2009. 10:12 AMjillybishop says:
what tools do you use to carve the wax? I find it very difficult to get sharp detail, although, as I've only just started casting, that's probably not surprising.
Aug 9, 2009. 6:19 PMDiamondBack says:
My oldest daughter made her first ring, in HS, using the lost wax process. Turned out quite nice. It was neat, seeing her process is the same as the professionals
Aug 2, 2009. 12:37 AMlozank says:
Many thanks for the very good instructable, may I inquire, however, what variety of silicone could actually be used to withstand the high temperatures of the molten platinum, and, where might one find some wax that can actually be so well worked? I had noticed you called it jewelers wax, ( all of my previous attempts at wax carving have been made neigh on impossible by the difficulties of dealing with paraffin) Many thanks.
Jan 24, 2009. 1:16 PMsamando says:
Do you just throw away your old mould? If not , where does it go?
May 14, 2009. 5:31 AMaqwiz says:
it's called "breaking the mold. . . e'er heard of it?
May 15, 2009. 3:47 PMsamando says:
nope, I haven't, sorry
May 16, 2009. 9:48 AMaqwiz says:
wow, then you have missed out quite a bit culturally, . . . if someone says "they broke the mold on this (whatever)" it means that it is unique, and can't be made again (aside from mimicking the original) in other words, craftsmen regularly break their molds (and dispose of the pieces however they see fit, be it recycling them into new molds, if applicable, or throwing it away) so that the item that they made is completely unique and 1 of a kind
May 16, 2009. 3:17 PMsamando says:
right, thanks to both of you for explaining the phrase so well.
May 16, 2009. 9:54 AMaqwiz says:
can also apply to people and non-moldable objects, as an analogy for uniqueness
Apr 28, 2009. 12:16 PMairgun says:
try brassknuckels or a sieries of rings to make tht desing just helping sincerlyyour friend -Bammmy boy
Mar 5, 2009. 9:43 PMguitarman63mm says:
Say that I wanted to practice making jewelry, in the hopes of someday being competent enough to make my girlfriend's engagement ring: what would I need to start out with?
Feb 26, 2009. 9:55 PMcursed_kross says:
I took a class back in high school and we made rings like these. My first one didn't turn out so well, but it still would have been cool to have seen this before hand. Back then I didn't even think of making a silicon mold to produce more. Now that I have more crafting experience under my belt I may have to try and make another ring or two lol
Feb 26, 2009. 12:06 PMluch says:
Very cool! I would love to some pictures of the tools that you use! Would you be able to post some?
Feb 17, 2009. 4:31 PMRs master says:
i likedloved this but i would like if you would do more on the lost wax casting and show you casting a ring i would like to see how from a pro how to do it

you made a spelling error in step 9 "...again. tat however is for... "
i faved it
Jan 3, 2009. 3:11 PMKellCorn says:
Thank you for this instructables. I just moved to the UK and would like to know a good place for jewellery/setting classes do you have any ideas? Thank you
Dec 9, 2008. 12:32 AMtheRIAA says:
how much did you charge?
Oct 15, 2008. 11:47 AMcrazyd943 says:
Hey, just wondering where would you recommend buying small amounts of this 2 part? Also, you say you use a sharp blade in separating the mold, what sort of technique do you use? Sorry for noob questions, I'm 14 and looking to start some pewter casting, things like simple rings and coins to start with, also, could I make the silicone mold with a metal coin or ring rather than have to carve with wax? Many thanks, Louis.
Sep 17, 2008. 3:57 PMVlorbschnat says:
What platinum casting house did you use?
Mar 26, 2008. 2:07 AMKookie007 says:
Wow this looks really professional!
Mar 26, 2008. 7:13 AMtriggernum5 says:
Perhaps because he is a professional..:) Only critcism I have on this is why opt to write up a Pt casting that you can't show the ENTIRE process for, when he does actually cast easier to work with metals himself.. I'm curious how the wax gets lost.. Is it instantaneously vapourized? I always assumed they used some kind of powder-mould more like the wax template..
Aug 16, 2008. 12:23 PMliny says:
wasnt wax melting point 54 deg celsius? Or is it a special type of wax.
Mar 31, 2008. 5:46 PMtriggernum5 says:
So it must be vaporized? If it just melts, then the wax would occupy the more than the same volume in liquid state.. I'm unclear how the casting works, ie: what nore heat resistant substance does the wax mold displace to accept the platinum? Or is it silica-like, and can drain liquid wax?
Jul 2, 2008. 5:23 PMsmurfsahoy says:
If you're casting a huge item by lost wax (like a statue), you might have multiple connections to the outside air (vents in addition to the sprue), and you might even melt the wax out/fire the mould (if you use clay) upside down so it drains out, since evaporation would take much longer, then flip it over and cast the metal.
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