Maytag Quiet Series 300 Dishwasher Wheel Repair Hack

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Introduction: Maytag Quiet Series 300 Dishwasher Wheel Repair Hack

The wheels on the rack adjuster assembly of the Maytag Quiet Series 300 Dishwasher seem to be poorly designed. In under three years of use, we have broken four of them -- even one within the first two months of operation.

Another wheel just broke, and I'm now out of spares supplied by Maytag during the warranty period. So, here's my hack to reattach the wheel and keep it washing dishes.

Step 1: Broken Wheel Bushing

Here's the wheel, broken wheel bushing, and a working one showing how it normally attaches. The crack you see here is the same way the others previously broke.

Step 2: Identify Replacement Part; Decide Not to Immediately Order

Repair Clinic, which is almost the entire point of this step, helps identify replacement parts for various appliances. In my case, it's a Rack adjuster assembly, right (or left). Unfortunately, Maytag doesn't supply just the wheel bushing (or wheel assembly), the only way to get a wheel is off of the adjuster assembly, of which I already have an extra -- minus wheels.

Step 3: Drill Out Wheel Bushing

Drill out the bushing so that a #8, #10, or similarly sized bolt fits through. If you don't have a countersink, use an oversized drill so a flathead bolt will sit flush. You will likely further crack and destroy the bushing. That's ok, because it will only be acting as a spacer.

Step 4: Install the New Bushing

In this new configuration, the bolt installs from the opposite side as the original screw. Tighten it with an appropriately sized nut. Note that the wheel no longer spins, it just slides.

Step 5: Cutoff the Extra Length of Bolt

I used a Dremel for this operation. Try not to drop the cutoff piece into the drain of the dishwasher like I did.

I ran the dishwashwer and didn't hear any crunching noises, so I assume it's fine.

This bolt isn't stainless, so eventually it will probably start to rust. I hope to have a new proper wheel by then.

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    21 Comments

    Does anyone have the original part number? My father in law wants me to replace the broken hub with a new one and doesn't want me to use any of the great ideas that have been posted here.

    It is more beneficial to have the wheels spin, just replace the hubs, use the same wheels, go to http://www.maytagwheelhubs.com to get a kit of four stainless steel screws, washers and hubs for around 40 bucks or you can buy a new top rack for 140 bucks but will one day have the same problem.

    This is a fake url and the jerk is trying to hack your computer.

    user

    I have to chime in on the stainless steel kit. IMHO, it is the only way to go. I after hack-replacing 3 of my 4 rollers a described above, the dish tray didn't roll freely. Install the stainless hubs from http://www.maytagwheelhubs.com/ and everything rolls smoothly. It's worth the $40 to never have to deal with this again.

    Yes I did some hacking too with drawer pulls before finding a simple long lasting fix. Why waste your time, just do it right and then you will have more time for fishing. lol

    I have found what I consider to be a better solution for the Maytag dishwasher wheel repair. It allows the wheels to spin. I purchased 10ea 32x3/4" machine screws and 10 ea #10 zinc washers. This is enough to replace all 5 wheel hubs. I placed a washer in the cut out on the wheel(outer edge), put a screw through that with the head outward. I then placed a nut on the end of the screw and tightened until it was nearly flush with the shaft of the wheel. I placed the wheel on the rack and put another washer/ nut on the screw. When tightened, the 2 nuts compress on each other, allowing some wheel movement. The alignment from out to in is: screw- washer- wheel- nut- rack- washer- nut All for under $3. Good luck!

    That's a great site! Thanks!

    These parts work for me. I cut some tubing to act as a bushing

    20150422_192424.jpg

    I got mine fixed in with 2 pieces from Ace Hardware -
    1. is a Zinc Screw Post - 1/2 Inch post - Fits 1/4/ inch hole - includes a 10-24 X 5/16 inch male screw. Its basically a threaded tube with a screw head welded on one end and a regular screw fits into the other end.

    2. I combined this with a nylon flange spacer - its a half inch long and had has a flange on one end that just fit into the wheel recess. Inside diameter is 1/4 inch and the out side fits the wheel hole just a hair loose.

    Just slide the spacer into the recess of the wheel and the post into it. The screw that comes with it just fits through the hole in the rail on the basket - make it tight.
    Also, in case you didn't notice, the plastic pieces in the rail ends that hold the basket into rail can be removed by pushing the head of the plug toward the basket and it will come right out of the rail and the basket slides right out.
    Hope this help. I'll answer questions at rick@backcountryhikingclub.org - good luck.