Mini 2-wheel Robot With IR Sensor Weight 14gr and ATTiny13 Soic





Introduction: Mini 2-wheel Robot With IR Sensor Weight 14gr and ATTiny13 Soic

Hi From France !
My name is Mic
Sorry for my English (:
My purpose a Very Small Bot
A little easier to build for Robot can we have patience and a good magnifyingglasses,
Its name: Roule_Robot
His nikename: RR
Curb Weight: 14gr
Dimensions: 39 x 22 mm

the necessary components:
An ATtiny13 SOIC
2 micro motor 3 volts 6mm length 12mm diameter (there are on ebay)
2 PNP transistors smd 600mA

2 100 nF smd capacitor (1206 or 0806)

1 22µF tantalum smd capacitor

Resistance 2 smd 6.8 K
2 10K smd resistor
1 red LED smd
An IR LED 2mm CQY37N
An IR sensor IS471F
A male strip SIL
A LiPo battery 3.7 Volts 70 mA
wheels made with the box tops tablets
they are stuck with glue or araldite cyanolite, just put in on the end of the shaft and be
careful it does not flow into the engine if not done for
motors and the battery are replacement parts for Mini Helicopter
The PCB is double sided but I avoided this by routing method on the component side with
wire phone
must also clean the PCB with acetone once finished welds.
Note: the programming is done directly in BASCOM ISP
we must remove the jumper SW1 (if not the ship is not recognized randomly)
and recover from the operation of the IR sensor
demo version of BASCOM April
the program is simple and there is room in the flash memory there
is also theATtiny13 and two free ports
and we can add lights for example.

The ZIP file contains all the pcb made ​​with Kicad and 3D components made ​​with Wings3D
images of 3D PCB are kicad screenshot of 3D rendering
Kicad wings3d and are both freewares

Step 1: Tools

a pair of fights 3x magnifier
A tweezers with small beaks
A keyless tweezers
A soldering iron very fine tip BGA-SMD-Soldering-Paste-Flux-Grease
A UV PCB exposure machine
perchloride for PCB burning
An epoxy plate presensitized 16/10
transparent to an inkjet printer or better laser printer
1 decimetre
1 metal saw
welding of: 1 mm max
Kicad software for printing the transparent

Step 2: Now the Realization .....

I assume you have already created a transparent, an insolated an etched PCB and PCB epoxy
I also do not detail the manipulations.
If this is not the case, it is better necks begin by an electronic circuit
easier with components of normal size because the SMC components (surface mount)
are very delicate to handle and so we move to weld the weld.

After burning the PCB place a drop of solder at the point where the components will be
welded and flatten with a fine file (see photo) that allows you to place components more easily.
Then check with a magnifying glass that the tracks do not touch, clean the circuit with a toothbrush or a klinex and acetone.The micro controller is a circuit that feared the heat, BGA SMD Soldering Paste Flux grease is very handy for easy soldering see video about.I also solder a tip for beginner:
place it in tweezers and immersed in a glass of cold water,
I shake the whole, j 'tin pins, I repeat the manipulation with the glass of water and then positioned on the PCB by holding it with the pliers so that emissions of heat sink (see photo) Then, I welded all the other components with the same precautions to avoid the double-sided
I put the straps on stiff wire wire-like phone.

When welding is completed, I recheck with the magnifying glass and spent my tour with acetone to remove the excess solder flux.
The RR chassis is made from a piece of PVC (30 mm rod power in France) or with materials as light as possible, the wheels are made with box plugs tablets micro motors stuck his staggered with a good glue and the battery is taped to the back for a good balance, it is necessary that the weight is borne on the back.

Step 3: The Program and Programmation ....

Now lets the program:
removing jumper SW1 prog to isolate the IR sensor during programming
connect the ISP programmer (follow the sequence of pin)
see below for the type of control
plug the LiPo battery (watch polarity!)
Roule-Robot.hex file is the one you need to load the microcontroller is already compiled there is more than load it into flash memory

Start BASCOM AVR (I use the demo version is sufficient)

Load the program Roule-Robot.bas (if you want to change the program according to your taste)

then configure the chip as follows:
ATtiny select, with the button dat Ship
go to the Options menu and then compile and Ship
and enter the following values:
HW stack to 16
Soft Stack 16
framesize to 16
in the program menu you can select an alternative program as STK200/STK300 if you have this type of program or make one like que'jai make the picture attached, or better, use a USB programmer.
Then go to the menu (green icon) chip program or press F4
normally the ship is known, if not recognized, click the small green icon (next to last in the top right) then go to the menu Lock and Fuse Bits
Fusebit turn off F
Fusebit E off
DCBA Fusebit of 1001: int, RC Osc 4.8 MHz; Startup: 14CK + 64 ms

ATTENTION especially not to change the fuses and others do not select an external oscillator
otherwise it is not possible to communicate with the ship so to program,See the screen shot fuses.

Now click the FlashROM and click on the green icon at the top Auto Ship program
Normally everything should be fine and after checking BASCOM displays OK at the bottom of the window
if this is the case pa s double-check everything including the PCB and start over.
Then disconnect the battery disconnect reset the timer pro SW1 in its place and
Robot roll is ready to ride :)
choose a clean flat and smooth terrain connecting the battery you have 3 seconds to put down RR on the flore
You can also test the IR detector, passing his hand before the red LED should light,

If the red LED stays on continuously, two possible causes:
1 a battery is flat
2 LED IR radiation by the way the back to avoid this, I glued the black tape on it.

UPDATE 07/2015 Kicad zipped (SMD with minor changes) and DIL version files are joint :

see the video:

:Have a great time ! :)

some links:



    • Pocket-Sized Contest

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    • Pro Tips Challenge

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    • Paper Contest 2018

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    Hi Mohamed

    Thank You

    you can looking to this instructable to:

    Wow so impressive , I need to do one some time


    In part list you mentioned just one capacity but in schematics there are three, also their values are different. So, which ones should i use?


    thank you for pointing :)

    I forgot to mention the two 100 nano Farad capacitor

    C1 used for the auto reset with R1
    and C3 decouples the power and it is not obligatory but it adds an additional filter for the noise peaks

    Why do you use Tantalum capacitor? Is there any specific reason?


    not really, it's just a matter of size, they are smaller in equal capacity

    very nice u use bascom ..

    did a search on google with the subject: Bascom Avr tutorials

    or these links:

    you can download it from this link:

    I compiled the program with BASCOM April, I flash the HEX program in the ATtiny13 with is ISP interface and USBasp programmer

    and this link we talk of using BASCOM with Arduino: