Music LED Light Box

Music LED Light Box

My original LED light cube got allot of reactions. Some of them where about making the LED's react to music. This did sound very interesting and I found some instructables on here.
Unfortunately I found it very hard to understand those instructables. In my opinion they weren't explained well enough and even some circuits weren't correct.

That's why I though I build one and make an instructable of it. I tried to make this instructable so easy, that everyone with or without any experience can make one!

If you make one, don't forget to share your end result photos and movies with us.

Below you'll see the end result of my Music LED Light Box.

The movie is shot with my Canon Digital Camera, in the dark. My camera can't handle the fast switching between light and dark very well. In reality the effect is even nicer then on the video.



Before people go asking who's music or what songs these are in this video, these beats are made by my brother.  :)
You can visit his YouTube channel for more information and songs.

 
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Step 1Materials & Tools

Materials & Tools
To make this Music LED Light Box you can use many different things and build it different ways.
In this instructable I'll explain how I made it, a very simple way.

Materials
- 12v Adapter (a battery can be used as well)
- 3.5 jack headphone cable.
- tip31 transistor (this is the key to the whole project) - $0.50
- 5mm LED's (the color or amount is totally up to you, 1 LED per 3v. I used 12v, so 4 LEDs) - $0.28
- A4 acrylic sheet - 3mm thick (also known as 'plexiglass') - $2.00
- Fine sandpaper (I used 400) - $1.00
- Electrical Wire

If you see a price above, that means I bought it. The rest I just ripped of some old junk. The 12v Adapter was from an old wireless headphone and the 3.5 jack plug is from another old headphone.

Tools
- Jigsaw (also a Jeweler Saw can be used. But that's really hard to get straight lines)
- Glue Gun (hot glue, other glue to glue acrylic is possible)
- Drilling tool
- Solder tool (optional)
- Pen

Ones you've got this stuff you're ready to begin!


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972 comments
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Feb 7, 2012. 10:47 AMkostika741 says:
After finishing your amazing project, where should i put the audio jack plug??
Thanks
Feb 7, 2012. 4:56 AMmitchell graham says:
Hey!
I want to make this for my systems class :)
I was just wondering what lets the cube sense the beats in the music to flash? Cause theirs no programming involved.....?
Also i was looking at making one 2 times bigger so 12 leds and like 30cm long, how would i go about this??/
Feb 6, 2012. 11:44 AMwj.higgs says:
This project was awesome. I enjoyed every moment.
I was wondering if there is any way to boost the signal. I have my computer volume at 75% before it begins to light up in a desired manner. At 75%, the music is too loud to listen to. Any ideas?
Feb 5, 2012. 8:08 PMJakeThief says:
Hey I made this using your exact steps, but I used ultraviolet lights (black lights) and it works perfect! Not as bright as I had hoped but it's still great. To anyone thinking of taking this project on, it is cheap to make and very fun.
Jan 31, 2012. 12:53 PMbboyman says:
i was wondering if there was a way to regulate and keep Consistency in the power source. i am trying to put this in my car but the problem is that yesterday i use a multimeter to test the voltage and it was 12.24 but today it is 12.61 i don't know if this will blow the circuit (or LEDs) or not if there is this much fluctuation in the power voltage

and one more question will this work if it is plugged into the sub woofer output of my amp in my car?
Feb 4, 2012. 8:56 AMcyrusbow says:
Look up the 7805 voltage regulator, look up circuits for it and you should be able to use it and resistors to get a steady 5 volts.
Feb 2, 2012. 7:51 AMsumit.kas1706 says:
Can It Be made without using TIP31c???
I mean Using Capacitor (as Band Pass )
Jan 17, 2012. 5:37 PMJabariSmith says:
With the help of some other users in the comment conversation below, I managed to put together a wiring diagram for this project that includes an audio splitter and will protect the LEDs and speakers from any possible damage. (I'm not saying that the tutorial's wiring diagram won't work, but it isn't an ideal setup.)

I encourage you to use the wiring diagram attached to this comment. If you have any questions, please address them to this comment, because the comment conversation below has old versions of the diagram that are incorrect.

You can download the diagram in high resolution here.
Wiring Diagram.png
Jan 30, 2012. 7:22 PMzcm87 says:
one more question, what resistors would you suggest for red leds that the forward voltage is around 2.0 volts? I know you posted the link to the calculator you used but I wasn't entirely sure on how to relate it to the above diagram so I figured I would ask lol
Jan 23, 2012. 5:06 PMzcm87 says:
why are the resistors connected to the cathode side of the leds?
Jan 23, 2012. 5:10 PMJabariSmith says:
I used the LED series resistance calculator here and it told me to connect the resistors to the negative legs of the LEDs, but I just did some research and it seems either leg will work. I'm not completely sure about this though, so just to be safe, use the negative leg.
Jan 24, 2012. 5:47 AMzcm87 says:
O ok just wondering
Jan 20, 2012. 6:57 AMJF4RR4R says:
Hey I was just wondering if you have gotten a chance to try this. Does everything work well and do the lights come on brightly enough? I would like to try building this.
Jan 20, 2012. 2:19 PMJabariSmith says:
I haven't gotten a chance to try this, I've been too busy recently. I have one more order to make from DigiKey, then I'll have all the parts I need and I'll build it.
Jan 20, 2012. 3:33 PMJF4RR4R says:
Well I hope it works cause I already ordered all the parts. Hahaha
Jan 20, 2012. 4:21 PMJabariSmith says:
Get back to me on how it works for you.
Jan 21, 2012. 5:44 AMJF4RR4R says:
Nevermind my last comment. I'm going to pick up a ceramic one today.
Jan 20, 2012. 7:54 PMJF4RR4R says:
I will. I copied everything on your circuitt exactly. The one thing that I'm not sure about is the capacitor. I got an aluminum electrolytic capacitor from RadioShack. There is an arrow on it for power flow I'm assuming. Which way do I hook it up?
Jan 21, 2012. 6:32 AMJabariSmith says:
I'd say have the power flow from the audio input source to the 1k resistor, because that's the way the signal should be going; into the circuit not out of it. I just ordered a ceramic capacitor, I don't think they have polarities.

By the way, you can save a lot of money (and also learn an overwhelming amount about electronics) by ordering parts from DigiKey.com. Corporations order high quantities of parts from there so prices are low, and shipping is cheap.
Jan 21, 2012. 2:42 PMJF4RR4R says:
Thanks a lot and thank your for your suggestion of digikey. I actually discovered that site by reading through some of your previous comments. I just didn't order the capacitor through there because I wasn't actually sure what I was looking for and wanted to see them in person.
Jan 21, 2012. 3:02 PMJabariSmith says:
I know what you mean, DigiKey can be daunting. There are just too many options!

I'm glad you're trying this out, good luck to you.
Jan 22, 2012. 5:12 PMJF4RR4R says:
I tried it out today and it worked; however, the lights were very dim. I think it has to do with the capacitor and the number of LEDs. I ended up just copying the circuit from the original instructions.
Jan 22, 2012. 5:18 PMJabariSmith says:
:( I can't imagine what went wrong. Did you use a 12v power supply? I think that's the only change that could really mess things up.
Jan 22, 2012. 6:16 PMJF4RR4R says:
Im not a total noob but I am no expert so it's possible I made a mistake as well so like I said I would still give a try for yourself.
Jan 22, 2012. 6:15 PMJF4RR4R says:
I did use a 12v 1amp power supply. I would still try it for yourself and see if you can't make it work. Like I Said I think the resistor and the capacitor made the input too weak.
Jan 23, 2012. 5:47 AMJabariSmith says:
Yeah, I'll still try it. I have wired it up with the resistor and two LEDs with straight power from the power supply, and they light up very brightly; but obviously the transistor and audio input are missing from that scenario.
Jan 23, 2012. 5:51 PMJF4RR4R says:
I did some research and If it doesn't work I think you should try a transistor with more gain. I think the tip29 has more but I'm not really sure. I think that more gain would solve the brightness problem (if you experience it as well) because it should allow more electricity to flow tithe LEDs at a lower volume from the input source.
Jan 23, 2012. 6:00 PMJabariSmith says:
That's a good idea, I'll look into that if the circuit doesn't work for me.
Jan 23, 2012. 12:51 PMJF4RR4R says:
Ok let me know how It works for you. Good luck!
Jan 28, 2012. 8:19 AMedition says:
hi how do I increase the light reaction and sensivity
Jan 28, 2012. 1:38 AMbridgersjosh says:
HI, could you tell me if this is possible, how can you make this so you can have a switch were you can select music mode soild color or not on at all and be able to select wich one you wanted, is this possible? thanks!
Jan 24, 2012. 5:52 AMPaddy3103 says:
Hi,
nice tut, but can I power it with my PC too? I mean a 4-pin Molex.
Can I use more than 4 LEDs without using another source?
Sorry for my bad English
Greets
Jan 25, 2012. 11:54 AMJabariSmith says:
Using power from inside your PC would work, you would just have to look up a wiring diagram of the molex connector and find the voltage it outputs. A simpler and safer choice would be using power from one of your PC's USB ports.
Jan 27, 2012. 6:33 AMPaddy3103 says:
The voltage is 10.4V
USB also is a good idea!
Can I use 9 or 12 red LEDs?
LED: 2.25V, 20mA
I want to put them behind my LCD and split the 3.5 jack plug (left, right subwoofer) so that the side is blinking where the sound comes from.
Is that possible? Do I need three electric circuits?
Nov 23, 2011. 7:41 AMGrumpy Mike says:
So you said in the introduction:-
"Unfortunately I found it very hard to understand those instructables. In my opinion they weren't explained well enough and even some circuits weren't correct.
That's why I though I build one and make an instructable of it"

Is that why you produced a circuit designed to destroy components and not be repeatable? This is a bad circuit:-
1) No current limiting resistors on the LEDs this will destroy them over time.
2) No current limiting resistor in the base of the transistor, and no protection against the reverse voltage on the base, this will destroy it under certain conditions.
3) It requires at least 0.7V peak output audio before anything happens.
4) Depending on the forward voltage drop of the LEDs used there probably will not be enough voltage from 12V to turn them fully on, use one less LED.
5) This will cause the audio level to clip at 0.7V causing severe distortion to the music. Mind you you probably don't notice that with that sort of music.
Apart from that it's grate. (sci)
Dec 24, 2011. 12:53 PMJabariSmith says:
You definitely live up to your name. Try to be kinder!

I have a few elaborations to make and some questions to ask.
1) Resistance needed for LED arrays can be calculated HERE. You simply have to purchase however many resistors the calculator tells you to. This is necessary because the power supply won't match up exactly with the voltage needed by the LEDs. Resistors offer a way to get  the voltage to exactly what the LEDs need, and in this way you can prolong the life of your LEDs.
2) Why does the base of the transistor need a resistor? Also, in another comment, somebody mentioned using a voltage follower amplifier to protect the reverse voltage on the base. Would that be a good solution?
3) This is good to note, but not very important - the box obviously works pretty well, judging by the video he posted.
4) Again, his video proves otherwise; the LEDs look great.
5) The audio signal is not output to speakers through the box - you won't notice distortion because the box has no effect on what you hear.

Thanks for raising all of these points.
Dec 29, 2011. 8:12 AMGrumpy Mike says:
1) - Yes it would have been good to see that in the article. - "Resistors offer a way to get the voltage to exactly what the LEDs need," - while not strictly true it is a good enough way of looking at it.

2) - To limit the current to a value that is safe for the transistor and the thing supplying it. Yes with a voltage follower you don't need a base resistor because of the negative feed back given by the emitter load limits emitter base voltage and hence base current. However it will not protect against negative base voltage. You are dependent of the transistor to withstand that and some transistors might be destroyed by it. In the case of this transistor anything greater than 5V will damage it.

3) It means that on some system you will not get enough voltage to drive it. However as you say his exact setup produced enough, will other peoples?

4) This is true only if you use LEDs with a forward voltage of less than 3V. Many coloured LEDs have a much bigger voltage than this.

5) From my reading of the circuit the box was placed across the speakers sending the same signal to both the box and the speakers. However if this is an independent amplifier output then no it won't distort, but how do you listen to the sound.
Dec 29, 2011. 8:36 AMJabariSmith says:
I've attached an image of a wiring diagram I mocked up for this project. Do you think this would work?

2) If this is true, that means this Instructable, if followed exactly, will give you a circuit that destroys its transistor after some amount of time. I would assume that the user who wrote this Instructable has tested his circuit and would have fixed the tutorial if it didn't work. Also, if you use a resistor big enough to limit the 12v input to the 5v the transistor can handle, you would lose a lot of power and the LEDs wouldn't be as bright. I'm interested in the voltage follower amplifier concept though; how could I add one into the circuit in my wiring diagram?
3) You're right. I was just assuming that if a person following this tutorial was knowledgeable enough to change the setup, they would know how to modify the number of LEDs used.
4) That's true, but again I assumed that the builder would be knowledgeable enough to compensate for the changed voltages.
5) In the wiring diagram I attached, I have an audio splitting cable: it goes from one male 3.5mm plug to two female 3.5mm jacks. One jack will feed the speakers and the other will feed the LED box.

Thanks for the reply! 
Music LED Box Wiring Diagram.png
Dec 30, 2011. 9:52 AMGrumpy Mike says:
There are two things wrong with that circuit.
1) The collector and emitter of the transistor are swapped over. You should have the emitter to the -ve of the battery and the collector to the resistors.
2) you should have a resistor 1K but not critical between the channel input and the base of the transistor.

If you use a splitter then there will be some distortion because the signal is just split not isolated. That means if you short one signal from the splitter the other gets cut down as well. The 1K resistor reduces the amount of clipping the audio signal gets but it doesn't get rid of it altogether.

The problem with a voltage follower arrangement is that you need to have a much higher audio output before any of the LEDs start to light up. In this case it would have to be 3.5V, where as with the amplifier arrangement we have here this starts to turn on the LEDs at 0.7V.
Dec 30, 2011. 6:37 PMJabariSmith says:
It seems that I labelled them wrong. Good catch!
I added the resistor in.

I think that is unavoidable without overly complicating this circuit.

Thanks for all your help, Mike!

I have attached an updated wiring diagram if anybody is interested.
Snapshot_2.png
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