No Weld Bicycle Trailer Hitch





Introduction: No Weld Bicycle Trailer Hitch

This is a complementary instructable to the No Weld Bike Trailer. This instructable will show you a quick air hose coupling based trailer hitch, that connects to that trailer.

Step 1: Supplies

The supply list for this hitch is well under 5 bucks, here is what i used:
1 Male Airhose coupling
1 1/4" bolt
1 1/4" nut
1 U bolt (1 and 1/4")

Drill bits necessary to complete the job.

Step 2: Drill the Ubolt Plate

Most Ubolts will come with a metal plate, Drill into this with a standard drill bit about 1/4"

Step 3: Put the Bolt and Nut On

Put the nut on the bolt and the put the bolt through the metal plate like the picture below.

Step 4: Thread the Airhose Coupling On

Thread the airhose coupling onto the bolt, Use 2 wrenches to tighten everything down sufficiently.

Step 5: Put It on the Ubolt

Put the bolt onto the ubolt like so:

Step 6: Attach to the Seatpost

Lastly attach the hardware to your seat post and ride! If you don't want to scratch your bike seat post, wrap it in an inner tube. Use a crescent wrench to tighten it down. 



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ingenious!! can it work for a trailer that pulls from the axle?

That's a really ingenious coupling method, I like it! HOWEVER, a similar seatpost hitch that we've been using on a cart at local glider field wants to tip the bike over whenever we're stopped, because the hitch attach point is too high. Have you encountered that?

Are you certain it is not the center of gravity of the trailer that is trying to tilt the bike? Also, is the front of the trailer a bit heavier than the rear of the trailer? It needs to be.
For bikes with a steel seat stem simply buying a plumbing T and slipping it over the seat post might be a good start for a hitch. That should allow easy left right movement for a trailer and the other end of the tube could take care of the up and down movement. With a perfect sized T you could use the air hose connector easily. Or drill a hole through the middle nipple on the T such that a cotter pin can secure the tongue to the fitting.

Common to 'tall' hitches-also have the same situ with my BOB Yak trailer (single wheel) set-up is drop-out mount because it's lower on bike,tho wheel interference becomes an issue on tight turns...

Inspired and built. Though I swapped the main bar from steel conduit to aluminum pipe to lighten the load, and added some cotter pins in a few places to make everything quick release.

My U-Bolt didnt end up being too similar to yours and a slight mod or two to the actual coupling on my rig but all in all very good ible and this coupler works great I've hauled way more than I should have on this badboy for way longer than I should have.

I'm thinking though that whenever my sugru comes in the mail I will be padding the ring a bit so that my gunmetal black seat pole doesn't get too wrecked. I'll post some pics this spring when I can take them without freezing my fingers off if you're interested.

This might prove to be a stronger design along your same principles. Also there is less chance of the trailer separating. I just threw this together with Google Sketchup and parts from the 3D Warehouse.

bike hitch.png

This is awesome but the hose bit needs to stick straight out to actually attach to the trailer.

This would probably negate the whole "No Weld" theme you got here. I was also thinking the coupling on the tongue should be vertical.

bike hitch toung.png

thinking more about this...

I think uneven ground or hills might break or stress this one too much...

Goose Neck Trailor hitch just like on PU Trucks with a 5th wheel.
I like this design mo bettah.