Step 1: Cut Belt / Wood Preparation
- Use a paper cutter, they make nice cuts and go through leather well.
- Alternatively, a utility knife works well if used slowly.
- Cut the wood so that it has about 1 cm margin (up to you really), I used a spare piece of softwood (not balsa!)
- If you need to cut the piece in half, use an index card to find the center, it's faster than measuring.
- Blunt all of the edges. An easy way is to rest a piece of sandpaper against one's leg or a couch cushion and to move the wood across it. I used my leg and 80 grit sandpaper.
Step 2: Make the Strop
- Use any suitable glue. I used my wife's E6000 glue because it was specified to work with wood and leather. To apply the glue evenly, I only put it on one of the pieces of leather and then stuck the other piece to it. I squished the two pieces together and separated them.
- Once the glue is applied, apply pressure to the strop with an even surface. I flipped the strop and pressed down on a flat paper cutting board.
- E6000 is an evaporative adhesive meaning that it cures by drying. The volatile organic compounds (VOCs) leave it, causing it to adhere. To speed up the process slightly, I used a fan. Although this particular glue takes 48 hours to completely dry, I only dried it for 30 minutes before proceeding to the next step.
- Read some instructables.
- Listen to some music LOUDLY at odd hours of the night, especially songs by Edvard Grieg.
- Cover the top of the strop with some blue painter's tape to keep the surface clean.
- Apply paste was EVERYWHERE. Why paste wax? It's inexpensive, it's used to preserve leather, and it can be dried like the E6000. I waited 30 minutes before proceeding to the next step.
- Pictured below is the the same type of wood with and without paste wax for comparison.
- Note: if you don't want to keep throwing away paper towels or napkins, consider re-using remnants of a reusable bag or old socks for the paste wax. A small rag can be kept inside the container with the paste wax.
- You ONLY need to apply whitening toothpaste to the leather strop for this instructable to be complete. I decided to make two strops because I happened to have some automotive buffing compound. If you have this, feel free to use it.
- Why toothpaste? Toothpaste makes an excellent strop compound because it is slightly abrasive. Whitening toothpaste is even better because it is slightly more abrasive. To start, apply a very thin layer. You may want to add another layer after the first has dried.
- Conventional stropping compound is bound in wax, so to approximate it, I applied paste wax to the top of the strop, on top of the toothpaste.
- Use your finger / a glove to apply the paste wax. This will prevent the paste wax from becoming contaminated. Also, don't use the same finger if you're using different types of compound.
Step 3: Sharpening Process
- The sharpening stone was obtained at a local Harbor Freight store about $10 and is triple sided. Gray is coarse, green is medium, white is fine.
- I'm not sure whether the stone is oil/water. To make life simple, I used a squeeze bottle to apply water. The water went right through the stone, unlike my previous silicon carbide stone so I had to water it with every swipe of the blade.
- As with any polishing task, I started with the most coarse stone and a 7 degree angle between the stone and blade. I worked my way down to the toothpaste strop. With each change, I wiped the blade to prevent cross contamination. and increased the blade angle slightly. I think this method produces a sharp blade that is tough to dull, but does not slice through things as well as a blade made by keeping the angle constant. More comments are welcome as to proper technique since this is my first attempt at "proper" knife sharpening.
Step 4: Shave Yourself!
- Before picture, my left hand with hair.
- Apply soap. Why? This is how I would do it with a double-edge safety razor.
- Try removing hair.
- Show a picture of the area and hair removed.
Step 5: Cut Paper
Step 6: Practical Testing
- Ultimately, a knife is used to cut food (in this case). The best way to check whether it works it see how easy it is to cut through food in thin slices. If it is able to create thin, even slices, it means that the blade is sharp and that it is also even. If it goes off to one side, then the blade is uneven. If too much pressure needs to be applied, or if back and forth movement is required, then the blade is still dull. I did not experience these problems with my sharpened knife.
- Being an engineer, a qualitative test is great, but I can't measure it. Why not something that can be compared? I have many oranges. By keeping the knife stationary and dropping oranges of comparable weight on it, two of the following can be measured:
- Test A = Set the drop height to 1 foot: With different sharpening techniques, how deep does the knife slice? Record the results in a spreadsheet and compare.
- Test B = Change the drop height: With different sharpening techniques, how high does the orange need to be for it to slice through completely?
- Test A = Uses fewer oranges and has less splatter.
- Test B = Would make a great video, would be awesome to see oranges slices in half.