If you are really into electronics and robotics, then you must MUST make your own PCB's.
Introduction to PCB etching using toner transfer method
In the following technique, I use a solution of hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid) and Hydrogen peroxide and drop my copper board into it. Within a blink of an eye, you find that the board has etched and your circuit is ready to conquer the world.
If you feel that the instructable is summerized, feel free to check out the complete documentation and a video tutorial in my site:
http://www.robotplatform.com/howto/pcb%20etching/pcb_etching_1.html
Materials required:
Copper Board
Laser printer
Fine sand paper or Kitchen Scrubber
Muriatic Acid / Hydrochloric Acid (HCL)
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)
Thinner / Acetone
Plastic container
Circuit diagram
Electronic or Hand Driller
Fine Drill Bits (0.5mm and 1mm)
Hacksaw
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Signing UpStep 1Paper and Printer selection
Selecting an appropriate paper is your first step in making a right selection. Glossy photo quality paper or even a glossy thick magazine sheet would do wonders
Printer selection
I have used a printer to transfer the circuit diagram onto the copper board. If you are using a sharpie or a marker, go ahead with it. I haven't tested it, but I guess it should be OK.
Set your printer to output maximum toner and printer your circuit on the glossy paper
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From Wikipedia:
Accidental byproduct
Acetone peroxide can also occur accidentally, when suitable chemicals are mixed together, for example when methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is mixed with acetone while making fiberglass composites, and left to stand for some time, or when a mixture of peroxide and hydrochloric acid from printed circuit board etching is mixed with waste acetone from cleaning the finished board and allowed to stand. While amounts obtained this way are typically much smaller than from intentional production, they are also less pure and prepared without cooling, and hence very unstable.
It is also a hazardous by-product of isosafrole oxidation in acetone, a step in the synthesis of MDMA.
supposedly not every laser is suitable because toner may have different melting point. i used OKI and Samsung with no problems.
as paper i normally use glossy paper for grapics/photos. it works but it is thick and takes few minutes to soak, i'll try magazine paper next time.
as etchant i normally use ferric chloride. advantages are that it is cheap, reusable, easy to use and safe.
when i say safe, i mean it is not aggressive, it is very mild oxidizer,(also used in water treatment) so it will not burn your skin etc.(unless you swallow or swim in it) but since it is brown it easily stains everything so it is still strongly recommended to use gloves. any contact with skin should be washed right away or skin will be retain dark stain for several days.
easy to use means there is nothing to mix or dispose of (at least for a while, one bottle can be used to make many boards). just pour the bottle into plastic or glass container, drop in PCB, when done remove and wash pcb, return etchant into bottle and wash the container.
main downside is slow etching (takes up to couple of minutes) and dark color makes it harder to see board. operation can be sped up by warming up etchant and using bubbler. inspection is usually done by taking out or flipping board. one can use (preferably plastic) tool or just adding piece of tape as "dorsal fin" before etching.
I don't fink way form (Glossy photo quality paper can be used for etching.)
I never thought could be done this way. Pretty simple. Too bad I do not own a laser printer, but as was thinking of buying one, as my epson are already getting old, so I'll try the business with pleasure. I will test with someone who has a laser and then I will buy a certain one or exchange. Who knows ...