Introduction: PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to Create a 3D Printer

Picture of PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to Create a 3D Printer

This Project is now being Updated to Include the S Series Model

The S Series Includes easy assembly of the frame and wiring with addition of a heat bed, BL Touch Probe for auto bed levelling/tramming and an updated ui for the mks touchscreen

The Beginning

Being interested in 3D printers since 2011 after purchasing a
BFB 3D Touch (Now 3D Systems with the latest model being the Cube Pro costing over £2000) I wanted to build a stable Large build platform 3D Printer for a fraction of the price.

Many Enthusiast's entries into the 3D printer market comes from the purchase of the Prusa i3 kit and in keeping with the good work of the Joseph Prusa design I felt it would be great if the design could be simple.

One of the many drawbacks I noticed was the overall finished look of the DIY kits; i set upon the task of creating a product that not only was affordable and easy to build but one which had style and form a look in keeping with the futuristic possibilities 3D printing brings.

Step 1: About the Printtable

Picture of About the Printtable

Inspiration to create a 3D printer from an Ikea Lack table simply came from the fact that my BFB 3D touch printer had been placed on top of a lack table for the last 5 years. Whilst the lack table absorbed the vibration and forces applied from 5 years of printing the table showed no obvious signs of wear or distortion. Further investigation of the Lack range fuelled my ambition by the world having easy access to IKEA furniture chain, resulting in a worldwide common platform in which to build the range of large format printers.

It’s this Format which will bring the greatest benefits to Hackers, Builders and 3D printing enthusiasts all around the world encouraging people to build, share and adapt the design creating an entire collaboration of adaptions, improvement's and opportunities. This project was published on and as gained such amazing feedback and support with the community requesting a instructable, so here it is for all to use and hopefully you will find it easy to follow with help and support available at the newly created site especially for this project

The Printtable project could not of been possible without the amazing help of my family, Louise (my daughter) for burning the candles at both ends creating fantastic renders, schematics for the build instructions and endless contributions to the design, Louise's husband Steve (Son-in Law) who spent hours on social media and websites promoting the Printtable project. My son James who spent most of his spare time just after finishing exams at university to create the website and endless hours (many through the night)piecing together 100s Gb of video footage to create the You Tube follow and build videos (if I had presented before I am sure without all the mistakes we could of done them quicker, Sorry my bad) and finally my wife who had the misfortune of listening to all the debates a family would naturally have when a project means so much to them and the missed nights of snuggling up before we sleep.

For them I want to give special thanks and this personal thank you, your help and support is appreciated and with an amazing family we can create amazing things. Thanks and love you all.

Thanks for reading and have fun creating your own Printtable.

Step 2: How to Access Information? / Creating a Community

Picture of How to Access Information? / Creating a Community

At the time of writing this instructable we are still putting the finishing touches to the website

With-in the site will be links to the you tube channel as well as additional information about the build, we will be giving away some of the build parts such as acrylic panel sets, rods, wiring and starter kits to builders in competitions and will also provide a one stop shop for all the printable components and upgrades.

A forum for all to assist each other in all thing Printtable and 3d printing.

News articles, tips and tricks and expanding on the printtable plans with help of the community for the future.

Step 3: Parts Required

Picture of Parts Required

This video is the first step (same as above) in a easy to follow step by step guide on preparing the Ikea Lack table ready for its amazing transformation into an attractive large platform 3D printer.

2 x IKEA LACK TABLES (in your choice of colour and finish) select country and search for LACK Table size 55x55 cm

The Printed parts (also available at PRINTTABLE.COM) or find a local 3D Hubber to print them for you at 3D Hubs

Please see attached spreadsheet for parts required.

Step 4: STL Files for Download

Picture of STL Files for Download

Download the STL files.

Some parts are printed in two halves and require placing together and a hot solder gun run along the joint to weld them together.

Please refer to schematic drawings and pre thread/drill holes which require fixing with M3/M4/M5 bolts or Grub Screws.

8mm and 10mm rod holes may want drilling out and it is recommended to use a masonry drill bit fro this purpose.

Note X Axis Puller wheel Holder as a smaller centre than Y Axis Pulley Holders.

Supports have been marked with position to be placed ensure the wider lip is positioned against the table legs and the thinner lip against the table top.

Step 5: Templates

Picture of Templates

Templates for Acrylic/Polycarbonate parts Including cutting template to be printed and used to cut holes in the print bed.

These parts will also be available at for sale at

Step 6: Assembly Drawings and Video Animations

Picture of Assembly Drawings and Video Animations

These drawings are to help you get familiar with the assembly of the printtable and assist in the naming conventions of the parts.

Also included above are short videos showing animations on how the some of the components come together.

Step 7: Preparing the IKEA LACK Table

Okay So lets get to work, Remember take your time and enjoy learning the build, 3D printing is nothing more than a learning process and with my help you will soon have a good understanding of how a 3d printer works and a fully functional printer to empower your creativity.

This video is the (same as above) in a easy to follow step by step guide on preparing the Ikea Lack table ready for its amazing transformation into an attractive large platform 3D printer.

All the instructions are included in the video the photos above are a quick reference to remind you of the steps

Step 8: Z Motor Mounting

This video is (same as above) where we cut out and mount the z motor housing.

Step 9: Printtable Support Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we assemble the 4 corner supports.

Step 10: Table Top Cutting and Creating the a Sturdy Frame

This video is (same as above) where we cut out the table top and fasten to create a sturdy frame ready to accept the Printtable components.

Step 11: Y Axis Rods and X Carriage Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we insert the y rods and X carriage. Don't forget to check out the X Assembly Animation in the previous steps as a reminder on how to assemble the X carriage.

Step 12: Printtable Y Axis Drive Rod and Bracket Mount

This video is (same as above) where we assemble the Y Axis drive rods.

Step 13: Y Axis Pulley Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we attach the Y Axis pulley brackets.

Step 14: Printtable Y Axis GT2 Belt Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we attach the Y Axis GT2 Belts.

Step 15: Printtable Z Axis Rod Mount Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we attach the Z Rod Mounts

Step 16: Printtable Bed and Lead Screw Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we understand and assemble part of the print bed

Step 17: Printtable Bed Frame Mount to Printtable

This video is (same as above) where we Attach the print bed to the Printtable

Step 18: Printtable Print Head Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we attach the print head mount for the E3D Titan along with The X Axis GT2 Belts

Step 19: Printtable Y Axis Motor Assembly

This video is (same as above) where we Attach the Y Axis Drive motor

Step 20: Printtable E3D Titan and Hot End

This video is (same as above) where we have already assembled the E3D Titan Extruder instructions can be found at this link.

For more information on E3D please visit

Step 21: Printtable Endstop and Z Motor Housing Fix Down

This video is (same as above) where we Attach the End Stops and fasten down the z motor housing.

Step 22: 17. Printtable Ikea Hack Conduit Build

This video is (same as above) where we Attach Conduit for wiring and print head.

Step 23: Printtable Build Platform

Picture of Printtable Build Platform

Using the template provided in the template step cut the print bed from a piece of 12mm plywood.

Step 24: Controller Board Wiring

Picture of Controller Board Wiring

This video show the wiring complete and is a guide to assist in wiring up the Printtable

MKS Sbase Controller board

link takes you to MKS S Base wiki for more information.

Step 25: Printtable Finishing

Picture of Printtable Finishing

Install the acrylic support for the display and attach the screen using a hot glue gun.

Stand back and enjoy your creation.

We will provide another instructable shortly to show the setup and calibration of your Printtable and in the mean time additional information and support will be available at


masondrust (author)2016-11-07

Hi All

STLs for the updated S-Series are now available on our website.



noboliner (author)masondrust2016-11-20

Are you going to publish videos on building the S-Series? If yes, when will you?

masondrust (author)noboliner2016-11-20

I am but with work commitments it is hard to pin point a date. The Update video shows parts assembled and wiring for the heated build plate and the Update first steps shows the frame assembly. Watching through the existing videos will make it easy to identify the changes and what needs to be done.

SnoopyV (author)masondrust2016-11-18


is there a special reason that you use the Igus RMJP-01-08 and not the RJ4JP-01-08 Bearings? The ones you use are really expensive i thing.

masondrust (author)SnoopyV2016-11-19


I found the tolerance to be better and a smoother operation.

masondrust (author)2016-11-05

Hi All

I have uploaded the first (never published) Printtable Concept to Thingiverse as a sketchup file the link is below

Over the last 4 months some builders have asked for Bowden set ups or alternative z set ups using nema 17. This CAD will assist builders further who wish to start adapting the design.




rg373 (author)2017-11-04

Hello, somebody already build the s-series?

if yes can you please send me a photo from the wiring with the mks-sbase 1.3


PaddEE2285 (author)2017-06-24

I am following the BOM from your website for an S Series build. I saw particular specs required for the z axis stepper motor, but not for the x, y, and extruder motors, except for the NEMA 17 prerequisite. I purchased NEMA 17 motors the following specs, and wanted to know if they work for the S Series:

Step size: 1.8
Holding torque: 55 Ncm
1.5 A
2.8 V
Rotor torque: 68 Ncm^2
Detent torque: 2 Ncm

EdgarM48 (author)2017-06-12

hi, I'm having trouble contacting the author, i bought some items from the website on 30 march and is still processing. I tried Facebook because is the only contact that i could find and no response. I really am feeling scammed.

DeryckerC (author)2017-06-05

Hi all,

Can someone tell me how to wir up a 8mm NPN z probe please ?



Voiden (author)2017-05-07

I want to buy the "printed parts set" but it is out of stock. When will it be available?

rg373 (author)Voiden2017-05-22

I order some parts 1 month ago but didn´t recieve it yet and no answere to emails.

I hope i get my money back.

Voiden (author)rg3732017-05-22

He doesn't answer on email or Facebook. Not on this forum either. Doesn't feel serious at all.
The printer seems great but I don't like to order from him when he doesn't answer.

rg373 (author)2017-05-22

I order one month ago some Parts at but i didn´t recieve the parts not yet and get no respond to my email by the seller.

Be patient when you buy at this site.

funjon (author)2017-03-13

Can you update the BOM (or post a separate one) to include all the fasteners - M3, M4, screws, nuts, etc - that are not currently on the BOM you have? I'm looking through the instructions and watching videos and you reference these fasteners, but they aren't enumerated anywhere. I'm working on a US BOM with US suppliers, and with the electronics, steppers, hotend, extruder, and a build plate I'm already up to $440. I suspect this will be over $600 when I'm done.

fiesta88 (author)2017-03-09


Nice project!
Will there be any video/picture updates of building the new S-serie?
And will you have the "printed parts set" on back in stock any time soon?


bolsoncerrado (author)2017-02-26

So is the update happenig tomorrow finally?

noboliner (author)2017-02-20

Well, atleast now i know you are still alive ;) Hope you can update the instructions until next week.

GrahamF20 (author)2017-02-20

Has this been updated yet?

GiovanniM72 (author)2017-02-20

Various mail sent but no One reply to me...
It's 20 feb today but this instructable was not updated.....
Please reply ASAP

DeryckerC (author)2017-02-02


How did you mount the Z probe ?



jbreward (author)2017-01-27

Wayne, I see you are out of stock, where can I buy all parts from you please?

flyingfishworkshop (author)2016-12-22

Hi Wayne or James, I ordered the printed parts from your site about a month ago, and for the last week have been trying to get an update on my order, but no one is answering my emails. Is there a problem? Can you give me an update please.

EdKroket (author)2016-12-13

Hello Wayne,

Excellent build, I am eagerly waiting for more info on the update S series.

I do have one question though,

I see you want to use IGUS polymer bearings.

I was looking at this youtube video of Thomas Sanladerer about the tolerance of these bearings and the correct usage.

What I understand from it, is these bearings do have to be in a tight fit housing to compress them, in order to give them the intended tolerance. As a replacement of the LMUU bearings, you either would have to buy the IGUS bearings with aluminium casing or design the printer bearing case with a tight squeeze. Could you please give some more information about your experience with your printtable setup? Would there be a way to alter the X and Y design bearing to match the Z axis bearing holder, which gives this squeeze these bearings would need?

Thank you for all your hard work.

eyut10 (author)2016-12-13


this will be a nice project.. i have most of the parts i diy'ed a delta pi printer, which was hell to calibrate..dismantle it and create this.. i see you use a smoothie board.. can on use a ramps 1.4 board.. with those firmware from smoothie board..


Silimun (author)2016-11-28

What specs should the power supply have if we want to have a heated bed?

masondrust (author)Silimun2016-11-30


Because of the large build area I only use UK mains ac silicone heat pad for the heatbed.

KableClear (author)Silimun2016-11-29

Personally, I just use a PC power supply. I find they offer plenty of current while being an easy formfactor to hide away.

SebastianK28 made it! (author)2016-11-19

Many thanks for sharing this project.

But is it possible to help a "newbie" with a construction plan for model S series? i have buyed some stuff from your shop. I hope i become any feedback on my mails and orders.

i am shure i have not all needed parts printed. I hope anyone can help.

Discription and stl. parts have some different naming it is a little bit confusion

In the mean time i will construct the table with parts who i am know thats right. And waiting for some other stuff

masondrust (author)SebastianK282016-11-19


Did you purchase the s series stl pack?

SebastianK28 (author)masondrust2016-11-19

Yes Sir,

but my problem is i am not sure if have all printed parts.

For example instruction "X Axis A & B will need to be flipped/mirrored for a duplicate print" <- i think means duplicate and mirrored, and i need 2 x axis a + 2 x B and 2 from 4 mirrored? Or is a and b all what i needed?

masondrust (author)SebastianK282016-11-20


X Axis Stls are A and B for LH side only (LH side defined as looking from the front with z motor mount centre rear) You will need to mirror these 2 parts A and B to generate the RH parts.

You will end up with 4 parts 2 x A and 2 x B with one of the A and B being a mirror of the other hence LH and RH.

Hope this helps.

SebastianK28 (author)masondrust2016-11-20

many many thank you

SnoopyV made it! (author)2016-10-05


after a lot of tries and calibration thinks the printer runs well. but i have a problem where i couldnt find a solution. I Got strange lines on the outside. I attached a picture of it. Any ideas how i could solve this issue?

masondrust (author)SnoopyV2016-10-05


I had a similar issue on a build and I pin pointed the problem was in 2 areas.

1) flexible z coupler not rotating centrally

2) bend in lead screw

Also check your lead screw nut, Z motor and lead screw are all mounted centrally to the z rods, turn the lead screw by hand to feel for points in the rotation which feel stiff, undo the z motor mount and move it to different positions whilst rotating the lead screw to see if an optimum position is found to aid a smoother rotation.

basically if the lines appear every 1 mm and your lead screw as a 2mm pitch then for every half rotation your z height is shifting and then returning causing a line.

when all the above have been done and verified adjust the z acceleration in the config file from 500 to around 200 this aids in smoothing the current jerk created when the motor is turns to the next layer height..

SnoopyV (author)masondrust2016-10-18

Okay i finally found the problem. After i changed everything at the Z Axis and nothing helps i finally found that Simplify3D causes the problem. When i use another Slicer the lines are gone. Do you use Simplify? Maybe an idea if its only an settings error?

masondrust (author)SnoopyV2016-10-19

Great you got it sorted.

I never tried a different slicer I continued to use simplify 3d.

What was the other slicer you used?

Have you got an updated image of the part with the other slicer?

I did read a on a forum somewhere to try a quirky layer height in simplify like 0.29 instead 0.3 to see if it fixed my problem but alas it did not and my lead screw did have a bend in it.

SnoopyV made it! (author)masondrust2016-10-22


i attach trwo images,the first is sliced with S3D the second with Cura. Both are printed with S3D through the control panel where you can add an gcode file. I hope you can see the difference. Could you share your S3D settings? Maybe something is wrong with my multiplier or something else. I really like S3D so i want to use it in the future. The S3D support wasnt very helpfull they just sent me a link to their troubleshooting guide :/

masondrust (author)SnoopyV2016-11-05


Sorry for the delay.

here is the S3D FFF file. it as auto levelling and prime line in the start up gcode. I always try to get my z probe manually adjusted to the 0 position to avoid having to set in firmware.

Hope this helps

SnoopyV (author)masondrust2016-11-16

Thank you :)

I start now to update my printer to the S version. Which probe do you use for bed levelling?

masondrust (author)SnoopyV2016-11-19



I have a BL Touch I ordered some time ago and will be fitting this soon.

I will post how I got on when it is in and configured.

PatrickN8 (author)2016-11-01

Would it be possible to add some dimensions to the holes in the bed plate?
And where they should be exactly i want a company to make mine in aluminium on a cnc :)

masondrust (author)PatrickN82016-11-05

masondrust (author)masondrust2016-11-05

Sorry I mis-understood

I suggest the actual holes should be specific to the bolts you use.

You can print the templates on A4 paper and measure they are to scale.

Hope this helps

Geurtswebdesign (author)2016-10-13

Hi im Like the build and want to build it myself but only bagger would it be hard to change it from the lack tablet 55 x 55 to the lack table 90 x 55.

as i see it it would only need longer rods, im i correct in this?

Regards danny

Hi Danny

We are working on the bigger table next.

Hi Mason,

i see that you are already posting video's of the update's and the new printed parts. are the stl files on the site the new ones or still the old files?

if so when will they be available


You can get the new cam lock support on thingiverse.

All parts on instructables and website are still for v1.

We are looking at ways to create revenue help support continued developments as I am sure you can appreciate a lot of time goes into the design and test prints. We are considering a small charge for a stl pack

any thoughts?

noboliner (author)masondrust2016-11-03

I think best would be to make it a pay what you want (maybe with a £ 5 minimum). Then its suitable for people with a small budget, but people who can/want give more can do that.

what you always can do is make a complete packege of alles the stel files and Dell them for a small fee in the website and use copyright for it i think most poeple will understand it and that way they are Finding your efforts and possible upgrades for it.

i know i would not have a problem to buy them for say £ 20,-- for the set. and then every upgrade for a small fee Like £ 5,-- or so. then every body can should to go with the starter or buy upgrades for it.

i would keep the info how to build it for free.

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