Introduction: Pacman Pouf
Browsing the Internet I found a link towards a Italian design site that creates hockers (pouf) in the shape of the so ever loved pacman creature!
When I saw the picture on the internet, I thought, well... that shouldn't be so hard to make it my self and dove into the adventure of designing, creating and (for the first time) doing upholstry. I hope you like it and comments/suggestions are welcome...
(please forgive me my poor choice of english words or typos in this instructable, but I think the general idea is there...)
Step 1: Design
First thing I always do when I start a build or a project, I create some Autocad drawings on scale, so in later stage during the build, I can easily measure the angles and sizes of the woodwork I need.
The requirements for the design I constricted myself to:
- low cost (was about €120)
- low weight
- easy to build
- sturdy (should be able to hold 2 people at least)
- in metrics (of course, it is the world standard!)
Then the following process was to determine the size of the pacman:
- for the height I took my current couch as the best height (40 cm). Keep in mind that the foam/padding determines the height of the woodwork!
- the radius of the pacman was defined in proportion with the height. It looks quite large (d=80 cm) but proportionally the pacman will look strange if the height (40cm) was set to a 50 cm diameter.
- 15 mm MDF, depending on the size, you will need at least the C-shape to be created from one piece.
- 9 mm multiplex (plywood)
- 32mm*40mm timber (count number needed * height for total length needed)
- larger ones (for example 40mm*40mm) for the corners and block
- upholstry. I used sky to get that leather-look, but it is not so flexible. Mine had already some sliding-stuff on the inside, so it can slide over the foam. If you get other stuff, inform if you need additional stuff.
- cardboard strips. I had special ones, but you can cut some yourself
- staples.... lots!
- workmate / bench
- screws (about 30mm in length, 3,2*30mm would be ok)
- wood glue (read instructions!)
- needle (curved one special for this type of work) and thread (special stirdy one!)
- sewing machine [if available] (I don't know if a regular sewing machine is able to get through the upholstry)
- foam and other filling
- a stapler! (I had a pneumatic one, but an electrical or whatever is a must... I don't thing the manual ones will be able to enter the MDF deep enough).
!Tips / Remarks
In the design the top (9mm multiplex/plywood) of the pacman was created seperately because I was not certain if the upholstry required a top that was not connected. Only when doing the upholstry I found out that it was better that the top was fixed but also for the weight reduction it is a good solution!
Step 2: Create the Base Structure
Creating the C-shape
- First draw the C-shape on the MDF, I used a nail in the middle and a piece of wood and pencil to create the perfect round shape.
- measure the inner edge of 7,1 cm
- mark the points where the vertical timber for the frame will be glued and screwed between top and botom C-shape
Creating the block
- Draw the square top/bottom
- Jigsaw to cutout the pieces
- mark the edges where the timber will be mounted (glue&screw).
- attach the sides
- drill holes all over
!Tips / Remarks
The holes drilled in the wood structure are to prevent that air will be stuck under the upholstry. When you sit down on the pouf, the air can escape throught the holes.
Work precize and get rid of all imperfections using files and sanding paper, because a lot will show when you put on the upholstry.
Step 3: Eye of the Beholder
Ok, now the hard part.
A pacman looks nice, but is only complete with an eye to scout for the blocks to eat. I have measured out where I wanted the eye to be and how large it will be, all relative to the size of the whole set ofcourse.
Test the sewing of the eye
As I have tried some examples first to create the perfect round eye and sew it to the red cloth, you might see that it is a good step to test some examples from material you have spare after cutting the basic cloth.
I used a professional sewing machine for this, but as you might see in a detail picture, it has quite a high start resistance, so it might 'shoot' its way in a straight line. Practice is a must!
Maybe it is better to do it manual, but then you will have to work precise in the distance between the stitches.
!Tips / Remarks
Stitch just on the edge of the white 'eye' so when the pouf is going to be used, the edge will not curl up and wear will take it loose from the red cloth.
Step 4: Block Upholstery
Ok, after all the preparation, it is time to start the upholstry. I first took the small block for the test, because it is cheaper to buy a new small piece of cloth when it goes wrong instead of the C-shape piece.
Glew the foam
- use appropriate glue for the foam (I used Bison Tix). Let it dry for the required time (15 / 20 minutes) before mounting it together!
- start pushing the edges together, lifting the center piece. Work your way from the edges in.
The edges will look chamfered, something like this: \_/
When the upholstery is put on, it will get it back into the shape, creating straight edges.
Mounting the top part
- measure the rough shape and keep about 10 cm extra to pull it into shape.
- use the staple gun (in an angle, see Tips) to get the first stretchingin place. Start at the corners and make sure to see that the curving is ok. Continue with the sides.
- check if everything is straight and if tension is high enough. You can check this by placing your hands on the side and move to the middle. If the upholstry curls up, there is not enough tension.
If the edges are not even, there is probably too much tension.
- because of the non-stretch of the colth I used, no evenly tensioned without wrinkles corners were possible, so I decided to use folded corners (see pictures)
- finish the top by stapling it. Use one staple length between staples to get even tension.
- cut the remainder part by marking it evenly. (I used a piece of wood again with a mark on it and a pen to trace the line whole around.
Continue with the sides
- I used one length of cloth for the sides, getting one sewing edge at one corner
- mount the white cloth inside out and use a strip of cardboard which will create the sharp edges.
- put the inner padding on, some extra on the edges
- fold down the cloth and staple it on the bottom. Use the same technique as described above (using angled staples). Finish the bottom part first for the three edges that can be fixed. Leave the sewing edge open.
- fold the last corner in shape and use pins to keep it in shape. Staple it on the bottom with temporary staples. Check if the corners are not too bulky, else fold it in further and remove cloth that is not needed / out of sight (! be carefull cutting)
- start the sewing at the top by creating a knot at the end, pull it through both corner-ends with the special curved needle and get it back through the knot. If you want to make shure it stays put, sew it fixed to the red top cloth.
From there, get from the back from one side to the other side and push the needle through, bending it back so it pops out 4 to 5 mm in the other side. Something like this:
_ _)(_ _)(_Continue your way down with even stiches and finisch at the end.
- finish the bottom by stapling it fixed and cutting the remaining cloth around 5 mm from the line of staples
!Tips / Remarks
- Use the staple gun in an angle for the 'tagging'. It is easy to remove the nails when you make mistakes, as only one 'leg' of the staple is in the wood.
- Stretch all corners and sides evenly. Use a lot of views to see if the lines (curves) are even and straight. View it from eye-height, turn it around, put it on the floor and do the same!
Step 5: C-shape Upholstery
Now the first part is finished, start with the C-shape.
With the experience from the 'block' you use the same technique for the C-shape.
- The center of the top-part is quite difficult. Use a spare-piece of cloth to test the cuts you will need to make. ! be very carefull cutting, as you will cut too deep quite easy. Don't underestimate, cut, test, cut a bit more, test again !
- use same folding edge corners like the 'block'. If it leaves markes from the wood, fill it with extra foam where needed.
- I used like with the block, a piece of cloth for the outside of the C-shape and stapled it in the C-cutout (see picture 13 below)
- I used a small piece for the cutout with overlap. Mount it like all other side-walls and fold in the edges for sewing. Use same sewing technique as shown before.
- I finished it by putting in 2 nails so the corner-sides wont be able to be ripped down.
!Tips / Remarks
Be carefull with your cuts. Use cuts and small v-shaped at the end to devide the tension better.
Step 6: Enjoy Finished Project
Now the fun part...
Put it in your living room and enjoy!
beware of couch eating abilities...
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