Instructables

Paracord Chair: Simple, Comfortable, Adjustable & Collapsable

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This project is really simple, as it involves two intersecting wooden rectangles that have a seat and back made from woven paracord.

I'm going to assume that anyone attempting this project has basic woodworking skills and is familiar with power tools, so this won't be a woodshop class. :o) 

I will be presenting a flexible idea that can be modified rather than absolute plans... please feel free to experiment and play... but don't get locked into a rigid perspective that there's only one way to do it. :o)

The pictures are pretty much self-explanatory, with last pic showing the two frames nested together.

Step 1: Things you will need...

Picture of Things you will need...
For this project you will need:

Materials:

150'  (minimum) paracord

48" heavy 1" nylon webbing (from REI)

36" of shock-cord (from REI)

1 pc) 3/4" thick oak (or other hardwood) board at least 6" wide x 60" long

30) 2.5" to 3" deck screws

12) 5/8" pan head screws

4) 3/4" dia. screw-on rubber feet with 1" mounting screws

stain & poly to taste

Tools:

miter saw

table saw

drill motor

pencil type soldering iron

2) 24" bar clamps

wood glue

1/8" & 1/4" drill bits

countersinking bit

#2 Phillips screwdriver

100 grit sandpaper

2" paint brush

rags

Nice but not necessary:

Table mounted Router with 3/8" round nose bit & 1/4" & 1/2" round over bits

Drill press

Floor standing Belt sander/disc sander
 
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jvgallano15 days ago

How much is this???

acuchetto1 year ago
Was the duct tape merely holding the paracord in place while you wove it, or is it part of the finished design?

Hehe - If I'm right you mistake the strong bands (nylon webbing) as duct tape. Take a second look at the pictures and you will see it's not what you think it is ;) You can see that he secured it with screws and it's the same bands you see in all the pictures - just the colours change due to the camera lighting.

cchubb3 years ago
I used to have an antique pack frame that was just like this. It had two nesting frames that were "caned" with lightweight cord and had a belt and two shoulder straps on the back. A large duffel strapped to it. When you were hiking the two frames fit together and the duffel strapped on. When you got where you were going the duffel came off, the frame extended and you had a seat by the fire. It was made some time in the '20s.

You wouldn't by any chance happen to have pictures of this amazing pack frame would you?

Doubt it, that was back before digital cameras.

It was just like this design except the top and bottom bows were arcs, plus there were two bows at the bottom, about 3/4 inch apart. The bows were about 2-3 inches deep and the seat flipped around so the outer edge fit into notches between the two bottom bows to make the duffel bottom support when hiking. 1 strap went around the whole contraption top to bottom to keep the duffel on and the bottom support in place, then two went around it side to side. Shoulder straps were permanently attached to the back of the "chair". It had a hip belt at one time, but it had fallen apart by the time I got it. I ended up giving it to a friend for a wall decoration.

That sounds very interesting. I've tried looking for something like that online to try and build but haven't seen a design I like yet.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/Quillsnkiko/Rawhidecanoechair1.jpg
This is the closest one I've seen to what I'm looking for I just don't like the idea of the legs sticking out all the time like they do on this one.
acuchetto1 year ago
In this build you obviously paid a great deal of attention to the care and details of the wood frame. That said, I don't get what I see as an aesthetic discord of the duct tape with the whole.
Hoping you're still active here or checking in. Regarding the camp chair, roughly how much does it weigh when done in wood? Can you make any suggestions for making it with an aluminum frame? I'll be bringing your design to some of my coworkers who are certified welders to see if they can help me out too but I figure the more sources I try to get the more likely I'll get an answer.
trisomy211 year ago
Just a thought, you could go to an arena and grab up used (broken) hockey sticks and make a pretty good version of this on the cheap :)
I've been eyeing your project up for a while and finally got around to trying it out. I wrote up my experience using standard lumber for it here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Light-weight-woven-lawn-chair/
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aadball5044 years ago
Very nice! you do good work I will have to give it a try !
hassi4 years ago
Here's a little something over which to digest regarding the hardness of various woods...See the second page...http://www.mimi.com/mra/green/janka.pdf
As a reformed cabinetmaker,

Ebony - As hard and heavy as nails.  Expensive, potentially brittle.  Highly irritating to the lungs as a dust.  And the longer the board is, the more expensive it is per board foot.  Carbide bits are required to cut it without the constant resharpening of your tools.  $125.00/board foot isn't unreasonable.  That's $312.50 for the wood, IF you can find a stick of it 41" long.

Mahogany - An excellent choice, actually.  The best high end chairs, Chippendales, etc. are made of mahogany.  Light and strong.  It's softer than oak, so adding a thin layer of maple, oak, etc at the leverage points should be considered to prevent crushing the grain.

Very nice item to build.  Light and lovely.

Thanks for the Instructable,

Ned
 Fin Saunders, thanks for those important comments. I worked with Ipe last year on a small project, and the first dramatic thing I noticed, was blade deterioration on every tool I used with the wood. It was incredible how quickly tool blades dulled. I too found the dust, even when well controlled, to be problematic. My conclusion was that I didn't enjoy working with Ipe ( just as an exotic example); it kinda took all the fun out of the project.

For a project like this, I personally would go with Maple, because I'm about 250lbs dry. Oak is an excellent choice as well, I just personally enjoy working with clear Maple, that stuff is hard as woodpecker lips for sure.
 Very nice. I like the cord in lieu of caning; much stronger, and weight still kept to a minimum. I did some canoe seats up last year in a similar fashion. Thanks for sharing your project, that particular style of chair is awesome for canoeists as a campfire chair. Nicely done.
micher544 years ago
 Beautiful chair!  I rented one similar to this but made entirely of wood at an outdoor concert in Saratoga Springs, NY many years ago and often wished I had a pattern.  Thanks for figuring it out!  Can't wait to get my supplies together and make one.
Foaly74 years ago
I have two questions. First, I didn't notice if it folds, or is just two separate frames nested together, and how would you make it fold? Also, would ebony wood work for the frames, or is it too soft?
IAMSatisfied (author)  Foaly74 years ago
It's two independent frames, the seat frame and back frame... the seat frame cantilevers between two seat supports (they're mounted on the back frame) and the seat frame slides easily when there is no weight on it.

While I have no personal experience with ebony, from what I've heard and read about it (it's so dense that it sinks in water), I think it would be a fine choice. Mahogany, however, would be way too soft.
Thank you, I'll remember that.
Verga4 years ago
Very nice, well writen and clear,  Pictures are clear and close enough to see detail, You need to do more of these. Marking a a favorite 
IAMSatisfied (author)  Verga4 years ago
Thank you, Verga... I'll see what I can come up with.  :o)
mycroftxxx4 years ago
 I really like the design.  It has a simple elegance.  Though it's a different aesthetic than what you show here, have you considered attempting to cane a milk crate with paracord?
IAMSatisfied (author)  mycroftxxx4 years ago
Thanks for the kudos. As for caning a milk crate, the idea had not crossed my mind... I have several of them, but it seems the highest calling they realize in my presence is that of stowing and toting my tools and consumables, the standardized size being great for orderliness.
unclepaul4 years ago
What are the straps for? I don't quite understand.
IAMSatisfied (author)  unclepaul4 years ago
Thanks, Paul, for bringing the need for clarification to my attention... I've updated step #3 and hope it answers your question.
CaseyCase4 years ago
 Oooo! That looks nice!
IAMSatisfied (author)  CaseyCase4 years ago
Thank you, Casey, for the kind words.