******Please Note: The woodworking part of this project is complete. Pt. 2 will be on Prepping and Painting the boat. 

My name is Greg and I am a wood scavenger. I was trained as a 6093 Aircraft sheet metalsmith In the Marine Corps, Most of my lifetime ago. When I got out of the Corps I spent a couple of years working for Lockheed Ga. on C5's and C130's. Then I moved to Florida and  went to work for a Yacht manufacturer fitting aluminum panels on 100'+ yachts. But every time I walked past the woodworking shop I loved my job less and less. So I studied and bought old hand tools from flea markets and thrift stores and now I am a Certified Wood Butcher. I can't stand to see good wood in a dumpster or a scrap bin. My motto is, "It's not scrap until I say it's scrap."

So one day I was walking across the 9' boards I had recently saved from the landfill and decided that a boat would be a good project for them. So began the internet search for a suitable design. I wanted something to travel the canals around my house and take photographs. So I wanted something lite and stable. I decided on a design called Pintail. Drawn by William D. Jackson in the 1940's. and published in a book on small boat building called the "Boat Builders Handbook". The viewers at home can follow along by downloading the Pdf for free at Svensons. That is what I did and that is what I am building from. It's a simple yet challenging boat to build and it has all of the features I was looking for. So let's get started shall we.

Step 1: Tools Needed

Always keep in mind when you are working with sharp edged tools and especially power tools, that they will cut flesh and bone as easily as wood. Even the Ryoba hand saw will give you a nasty wound if you get your body parts in it's way. Make sure that all of your tools are razor sharp so they are able to do what you intend them to do without forcing. Do not push tools towards any part of your body including and especially your hands. Also be very careful of bystanders as they may not be aware of what you are about to do. Always wear safety goggles, dust masks and other protective gear when appropriate.
Most importantly If you have never used a Table saw, give the dimensions and wood to someone who has experience and let them cut the long parts. Please read all directions and have good understanding of what needs to be done before starting a project like this. And don't forget to change the batteries in your smoke alarm on your birthday.

Power tools

Table saw (only in the beginning to cut the long parts. You really should not attempt to cut these pieces with a circular saw)
Circular saw (Skillsaw)
Jigsaw or Bandsaw
Screw gun

Hand Tools
Hand plane (or a belt sander or grinder)
Tape measure
small try square
All of your clamps (most of them anyway)
Adjustable angle "Boat square"
Small Hammer
Japanese "Ryoba" Saw

The materials list is in the plans.
It's too bad we haven't gotten to see part two =( but thanks for sharing your hard work!
<p>You had me at &quot;It's not scrap until I say it's scrap.&quot;, but what ever happened to this boat? Did I miss part two?</p>
<p>Any thoughts on covering a frame like this with rubber pond liner, glued on with industrial adhesive?</p>
I don't know about pond liner in particular as I have never worked with it. But you wouldn't want to cover it with anything stretchy since the pressure of the water would cause it to push inwards when you put it in the water and you would have a very hard time propelling the boat. <br>It's not exactly a &quot;slippery&quot; design anyway. <br><br>However. when I finished the framework and set it out on the front lawn to take pictures, I remember thinking, &quot; I could cover this with canvas or even cedar strips like a canoe. I don't actually have to cover it with plywood.
I love the build I would live to try my luck at one of these. I live next to a lake but don't have the funds for a "boat" so I'm thinking about making my own. Thanks for the info
Good build - a very smart looking craft - the wife and I love being out on the water. <br> <br>DZ
Nice to see someone using the old PM designs. One question, how did you get the strongback out when you turned her over? In the old article I've got they say to cut it in half,seems rather wasteful to me.
It wasn't difficult to remove the hull from the strongback. The center frame isn't connected to boat. So when I put that frame together, I didn't glue the pieces together. I only used screws. So I was able to take it apart to make it easier to remove the boat. Then it was just a matter of lifting it off. I made the slots for the other two frames with a slightly loose fit so that it wouldn't bind too much when removing. Also you want to be sure that you don't forget and screw parts of the boat to that center frame.<br /> <br /> That why it's important to understand all of the steps before beginning. Sometimes the things you do at the start can affect how things work out at the end.<br /> <br /> Thanks for your question and for checking out my 'ible. The weather is looking good for this weekend so I am hoping to get the it painted. Look for that 'ible coming soon.
could also make the strongback from several pieces, drop out the middle piece and the others slide out.
personally, i'd have put the deck beams in while it was on the form and attached the knees to the mould. they'd have helped keep shape better, even though it'd be an extra step.
At a real lumberyard you can ask for (and pay for) higher grade lumber to get knotfree wood.
This is true but there are so few real lumberyards around anymore. I am no real fan of the Big Orange Place but if you pick through the stacks you can find some decent material. The 2x12x12' that I used for the form board only had one or two tight knots in it. And that was the construction grade SYP. I could have gotten Doug fir by the foot for quite a bit more and it is very clean, But you still have to choose carefully.<br> <br> A few years ago I started to build a sailboat. I went to three different HD's to find six 10ft 2x4's for the mast. I built a nice mast but unfortunately I didn't get much further than that.lol<br> <br> Where I live there are 2 HD's within 5 miles and 8 within 10 miles. So regular lumberyards don't stand a chance. I had some friends that owned a hardware store that had been there for 50 years. They had to stop selling plywood because HD was <strong>selling</strong> it for the same price they were <strong>BUYING</strong> it. And when the second HD with opened up within 1 Mile of their store, they had to close.
i've been looking at abs pipe for chines and gunwales for a skinboat, the pintail looks like it'd be a good starter for that kind of thing.
Sounds like you've been through it.. Memphis has managed to keep lumberyards along with Home Despots.<br>Love your boat, anyway
nice instructable! <br> <br>good for single person waterfowl or duck hunting!
Fantastic instructable good job on putting this together be a nice build to do with grand kids thanks and god bless
This is awesome great instructable!! Is it hard to paddle with a flat bottom?
Sorry if I sound silly , but when should we expect part 2 ? <br> <br>Thank you
You don't sound silly at all. The boat is actually painted already. The photos were taken. But life has intervened, I haven't been able to sit down and put it all together. I will do that very soon. I promise. Sorry for the delay.
BUILDER BEWARE: I had been a fan of the 5mm underlayment plywood for one-off boats to test a new design until just recently. $10-$12 per sheet is a lot cheaper than marine/aircraft grade plywood. &nbsp;It turns out the Big Orange Box sells two different 5mm underlayments. &nbsp;The one that had been most common until my last purchase was <em>LAUAN MOISTURE RESISTANT</em> plywood. &nbsp;I had built a number of small projects with it and had no complaints. &nbsp;Unfinished projects lay in the backyard for years without a protective coat of paint and showed little visible damage, even on pieces that would collect and hold rainwater. &nbsp;There were 2 different varieties of this. &nbsp;One had a single core with a veneered surface, and the other had a 3-layer core with veneered surface. &nbsp;I always tried to find the one with 3 distinct layers, so I'm not sure whether the single core holds up as well or not.<br> <br> The product I purchased about 3 months ago was labeled<em> TRI PLY</em>. &nbsp;The product description on the Orange Box website says it is &quot;moisture resistant&quot; and &quot;suitable for any room in the house&quot; &nbsp;Unless they've changed their manufacturing adhesive in the last three months, this is <em><strong>NOT SUITABLE FOR ANYTHING EXTERIOR THAT WILL BE EXPOSED TO WATER WHETHER PAINTED OR NOT</strong></em>! &nbsp;Using it to line a utility trailer &nbsp;has turned into a mistake that will be expensive and time-consuming to correct. &nbsp;<br> <br> Recently in the Austin, TX area, I've noticed that some stores have had only the TRI PLY in stock, while other stores have had both LAUAN and TRI PLY. &nbsp;Where the Orange Box has 4'x8' sheets of both, it usually also has 2'x4' and/or 4'x4' &quot;craft panels&quot; of the same materials. &nbsp;Save yourself the cost and labor of having to build twice... buy a small piece of each and test them both... after my trailer was built and before it was painted, we had 2 days with 10 minute light showers in the afternoon, and by the time the sun was back out on the second day, the TRI-PLY WAS ALREADY DELAMINATED!
Images didn't embed... let's try again
Hey RaptorWing, Thanks for your comment and warning to people to test their materials before building. I was Originally going to use a product by PL Premium to glue this project together, but I decided I would rather use 5200 since I KNOW how it works. And I would be basically &quot;testing&quot; the PL PREMIUM. Especially since the PL says &quot;Not for use under water&quot; right on the tube. Still, I was &quot;pretty sure&quot; it would work for what I am doing here. But I was &quot;Positive&quot; the 5200 would work since it's made for underwater use. And since it was only a couple bucks more, I went with it. <br> <br>The Ply wood I got was also labeled &quot;TriPly&quot; and it has not disappointed me. As I said earlier, It rains a lot where I live, in fact, Right After I put the sides on this boat, it was caught in a Downpour. I wasn't even able to cover it up in time and a section that I had just installed actually filled up with water. You can see the pictures in step 10. The 5200 wasn't even skinned over yet. And it held water. The unfinished edges of the plywood were soaked, and yet no sign of delam. even now. <br> <br>Also, If you check the third picture in step 15, look past the boat, there is a patio chair with something pointy sticking out from it. Those are scraps cut from the deck install. They are still out there. I shot that photo more than two weeks ago on the 4th. In fact I waited to answer this comment because it has been raining all nite and in fact is still raining as I write this and there have been NO Signs of delamination.These are not primed or finished in any way. <br> <br>It could be that you just got a bad batch. I'm not trying to tell anyone NoT to use Marine grade Plywood, but when this plan was drawn, there was no such thing. At least not commonly available. And this is a boat that was most likely built by someone with not much experience building boats. and with not much money. He used what he had. Some of these boats were sealed with roofing tar. The directions with this plans say to put it together with roofing nails. That sounds crazy to us today but it didn't stop people from building boats in their backyards and worksheds.
Cool project! I've always imagined one of these with a sail would be sweet. <br>-Thomas
Thanks tdem I really had fun building it. I plan to publish more 'ibles related to this one. And I've been thinking about a small crab claw. It's going to be more of a canal boat, so it will have to be stowable.
A sprit rig would allow the most sail area for the length of the spars (which could be stowed in the boat). The sail could be constructed from Tyvek building wrap. <br> <br>If your interested in some more bang for the buck low cost options.....
Actually I did a bit of searching after that last comment and found this<br> <br> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQGUbMSPTM" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQGUbMSPTM</a><br> <br> These guys are moving along for sure.<br> <br> I also found this, which is probably more along the lines of what I am looking for. I would probably build my own though.<br> <br> <div class="media_embed"> <iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/FmP9eZ-Pn7I" width="420"></iframe></div> <br> <br> <br> Also there are a couple of designs here including the one in the first video. Unfortunately several of the links are dead now.<br> <br> <a href="http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/guille/wiki.pl?Making_A_Sail" rel="nofollow">http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-sys/cgiwrap/guille/wiki.pl?Making_A_Sail</a>
That design of boat was originally for Duck hunting. Not probably in the sense you would think of. They were large enough to carry the hunter, a string of decoys, and usually a large shotgun which was mounted to the bow. The boat was covered in the local flora to disguise it. This is from the time of the commercial duck hunting that decimated the duck flocks in the US and spawned bag limits, and special permits.<br><br>Stability was important to the duck hunter. This works to your advantage with a sail as initial stability is high. The hull can stand a fair amount of sail. Providing a bit of lateral stability under sail will also require a center/dagger board or a leeboard mounted on the gunl' if you are to want to do anything but go downwind. The craft was designed for rowing though and should be easy to propel in that manner if you desire only downwind sailing....<br><br>John
very nice job! and thanks for the link for the plans.i had it but forgot to save my bookmarks when wiped my hd.i might build one these for my grandkids to play with. cant set in aboat like this myself for long enough to get anywhere to fish.i will have to build something else for myself. btw how stable do you think it be? it looks wide enough to be pretty good.also just how long is it under nine feet and no motor i think can be used in missouri without license and maybe even without title.i will have to check that out.
Thanks for the comment. I haven't had it in the water yet but I did choose the design for stability. I know just enough about boat design to be dangerous, =) but the 40 inch wide beam, bottom rocker and side chines are all good signs of stability. It also has an outer keel that I haven't installed yet. I want to use it to take pictures so I want something that will NOT tip over easily. DSLR's and water don't mix. <br> <br>It's actually 10 feet long. Here in Florida it has to be less than 16 feet and no motor to avoid the annual tax. <br> <br>I think it would be a great boat for kids. (Supervised of course) It's &quot;rated&quot; for a man and a dog or two kids. The cockpit is a bit smaller than I envisioned. In the last pic with my socks I am sitting with my back against the coaming.
Good job. I think thats the plan I started about 55 years ago when I was a kid. Sorry to say I never finished it. I think I got the plan through Popular Mechanics. Your ible is great, makes me want to try it again now that I'm retired and have plenty of time. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind words. I hope you do build one and if you do please post some pics.
How much do you think this would cost in wood?
Not much really. <br> <br>12ft 2x12 for the form $15 <br> 4 2x4s for legs $10 <br>2 Sheets 5 mm ply $25 <br>1 sheet 3/8ths ply $15 I only used about half of the sheet for the floor and Coamings <br> <br>I got the frames and stem pieces out of material on hand but even if you had to buy the wood I think you could probably get it all out of a 1x8x8' piece of pine. <br> <br>So really only about $65 for wood. Plus 2 tubes of 5200 Sealant @$12 each and about ten dollars or so in hardware comes to about $100. <br> <br>I also spent $12 on a quart of primer but I am not sure that will be enough. I haven't bought the paint yet, but I am figuring about $30 for that. <br> <br>An Oar and a life jacket should get me on the water. I'll probably make the oar, just because I am like that. xD <br> <br>To get it TO the water I plan to make a cart using the two wheels that are seen in some of the pictures in this build. <br> <br>Thanks for your question and BTW I used your 'ible &quot;The Constrictor Knot&quot; when I put up the shelter in Step 11. It's still up too!! <br> <br>One more thing. Add $12 for a 2x8x10 that I used to cut the long parts from.
Think I might build a couple of these with my dad, for next season. Fantastic instructable! Great to know that someone benefits from my instructables!

About This Instructable



Bio: As long as I can remember, I have either been putting something together, or taking it apart to see how it went together.
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