My name is Greg and I am a wood scavenger. I was trained as a 6093 Aircraft sheet metalsmith In the Marine Corps, Most of my lifetime ago. When I got out of the Corps I spent a couple of years working for Lockheed Ga. on C5's and C130's. Then I moved to Florida and went to work for a Yacht manufacturer fitting aluminum panels on 100'+ yachts. But every time I walked past the woodworking shop I loved my job less and less. So I studied and bought old hand tools from flea markets and thrift stores and now I am a Certified Wood Butcher. I can't stand to see good wood in a dumpster or a scrap bin. My motto is, "It's not scrap until I say it's scrap."
So one day I was walking across the 9' boards I had recently saved from the landfill and decided that a boat would be a good project for them. So began the internet search for a suitable design. I wanted something to travel the canals around my house and take photographs. So I wanted something lite and stable. I decided on a design called Pintail. Drawn by William D. Jackson in the 1940's. and published in a book on small boat building called the "Boat Builders Handbook". The viewers at home can follow along by downloading the Pdf for free at Svensons. That is what I did and that is what I am building from. It's a simple yet challenging boat to build and it has all of the features I was looking for. So let's get started shall we.
Step 1: Tools Needed
Most importantly If you have never used a Table saw, give the dimensions and wood to someone who has experience and let them cut the long parts. Please read all directions and have good understanding of what needs to be done before starting a project like this. And don't forget to change the batteries in your smoke alarm on your birthday.
Table saw (only in the beginning to cut the long parts. You really should not attempt to cut these pieces with a circular saw)
Circular saw (Skillsaw)
Jigsaw or Bandsaw
Hand plane (or a belt sander or grinder)
small try square
All of your clamps (most of them anyway)
Adjustable angle "Boat square"
Japanese "Ryoba" Saw
The materials list is in the plans.
Step 2: Make Patterns
I went with only one piece of plywood between the frame pieces instead of two because it minimized the areas where water might collect. Plus it just looked cooler. I saw this design on a Lightning sailboat so I am not worried about it being strong enough.
Cut the ends of the form to match your stem pieces. But first....
Step 3: Cut the Long Pieces.
Note: It's usually easier to find clear, knot free wood in larger dimensions than smaller. So if you have to buy wood, get the biggest dim's possible and take your parts out of them. Unfortunately I was not able to use the wood I had found in the remodel dumpster for the long pieces but I did use it for the frames and smaller parts. So those 9' boards will go into a future 'ible. But the 2x12x12' was only about $15 and it was straight grain and practically knot free.
Step 4: Set Up the Form.
Step 5: Set Up the Frames
Step 6: Trim the Chines
After trimming all four ends I loosened everything up and glued it all in place.
Step 7: Add Bilge Battens
Then install Clamps pretty much the same way as you did the chines. Don't forget to pre-bend them first.
Step 8: Adding the Clamps
In the process of adding these parts I figured out a neater way to cut the ends. A lot of this is just done by eye, but I found that I could clamp the Clamp (sorry) to a 2x4 and use it as a lever to hold the piece in place and mark the top and bottom, then connect the lines to get my cut line. Check the pictures they can show it better than I am doing here.
Step 9: Adding the Bottom. But First, a Bit of Controversy and a Minor Disaster.
Another point that I am sure to hear about, I will not be using epoxy or any fiberglass on this boat either. Believe it or not people built boats before epoxy was invented. Some that have lasted for decades. I won't go into my reasoning too much here because I 'm sure it will be discussed in the comments section.
I am, however using one Modern Miracle. I am gluing it together with 3M 5200, If you have never used it before, let me tell you it's some awesome stuff. It sticks to pretty much anything and it's the only adhesive/sealant that should be used below the waterline. When you glue something together with this stuff, fasteners are redundant. They are only there to hold things in place til the 5200 dries. You could also use resorcinol glue but I couldn't find it in my area. I admit I didn't look that hard though. =)
Now on to the minor Disaster. In the first photo you can see where my frame has come apart. This was not the fault of the glue. (I used Elmer's Wood Glue MAX.) But I glued the plywood pieces to painted wood. Big No-No. But I just took everything apart and sanded off the paint and glued it back together. I also added a couple of screws for safety. I moved ahead with marking and cutting the plywood for the bottom without reattaching the sheer clamps to the stem to give the frame some time to set before putting any stress back on it. I re attached them before I buttoned up for the nite..
The plans said to start the bottom at one end and scarf in a piece at the other end. But I instead centered the piece and added a small piece at each end. Check the photos for the deets.
Step 10: Attaching the Sides
I will use the pieces that I trimmed from the side planks to patch the missing bit at the sheer line. But with the sides already on, the boat can come off of the form.
Step 11: Turning the Hull
I also had to erect a shelter from the rain in my backyard. I didn't want to have to pour water out of the now upright boat every morning. Thanks to jaaaaayyyyy and his excellent instructable. I kept trying to do it my way and it wouldn't work until I finally did it his way and success!!
Step 12: Installing the Cockpit Floor and Knees
Step 13: Deck Beams, Carlins and Other Framing
Once the deck frames and side knees are in, and the deck battens are in, we can start on the carlins. These are pieces that run fore and aft on the boat, they support the side decks and, along with the deck frames, define the cockpit. They are curved to somewhat follow the sheer clamp. but they do have their own curve.
They were pretty tricky to fit. The way I did it was to mark each of the beams where I wanted the Carlins to land, and screwed a small block there to hold it. Then I used a bar clamp to pull the center in to the side knee so that I could mark everything. I cut the notches in the knee and the deck beams and then installed them the opposite way. I put two screws into the knee, and a clamp for safety, then went to the other side of the boat and grabbed each end of the carlin and pulled towards me, evenly. They dropped into the notches and I was able to glue and screw everything into place.
Step 14: Fore and Aft Decks
Here is how I did it. I had a bit of trouble on the first one because of the arch of the deck. So I will show how I did the second one. As shown in the photos, I clamped a couple of sticks to hold down the sides so that I could get some screws into the wood and hold it down It did not want to stay there. so I used countersunk screws with washers and I ran the screws down slowly so they wouldn't simply pull right thru the wood. Yes, The Force was strong in these decks. (sorry)
After the adhesive sets I will take the screws out one by one and remove the washers and reset the screws flush to the decks.
Now on to the side decks.
Step 15: Side Decks
Even though the ends were pretty well supported by the sheer clamps and the carlins, I still put a small support block in there to make sure.
Once the ends were fitted I clamped it back in place and reached under to trace the carlin onto the side deck. I cut this line away from the boat with a jigsaw. Once this cut was sanded, it was ready to go back in permanently. Lay a bead of adhesive along the frames and place the piece and nail it into place.
So now I am looking at 22' of excess plywood that needs trimming. It made me tired just to think about doing all this with the Dozuki Saw. So I flipped the boat over and cut it with the jigsaw, up side down pressed up against the deck with my thumb on the trigger. This worked well Mostly. But in a few spots where I got in a hurry I tore up the top layer of the plywood. Just more work for the finisher. (me)
Step 16: Coamings
And that about wraps up the woodworking portion of our program. Tune in next time for "Prepping and Painting".
Thanks for checking out my 'ible on building Pintail. I hope you will vote for me in the contests I have entered and if you enjoyed this and would like to see more, don't be afraid to follow me so you can be notified of my next one.