Press Aluminum Cans into Ceiling and Wall Tiles

Press Aluminum Cans into Ceiling and Wall Tiles
This is an experimental project that uses aluminum cans to make decorative metal tiles for ceilings or walls by cutting open the cans into flat rectangles and using a die stamp to form them. This is similar to my beer can roof project except the die making is more complex here.

  • First make a tile die design in expanded foam
  • Then use evaporative (lost-foam) pattern casting to cast the tile die in aluminum.
  • Clean up and shape the die with a grinder and other tools.
  • Start cutting cans and stamping tiles
  • Staple them into place on a ceiling, wall, or whatever you can think of.

This is a very involved and semi-dangerous project where tools have to be built, very high temperature molten metal is used, fumes are created, etc. Use caution and be safe. I'm not liable for any injuries you may occur using the techniques shown here.''

Please vote for this project in the Epilog challenge.
 
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Step 1Make + and - polystyrene foam molds of die plates

Make + and - polystyrene foam molds of die plates
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Make some foam cutting tools if you feel like it, a good sharp utility knife will do OK on this step. This link has a great variety of foam cutting ideas:
http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/HalloweenTech/fotmak_MakingFoamTools.html

Polystyrene or styrofoam of some kind is carved into the shape you want to cast aluminum into. I used egg cartons, take-out containers, and dumpster scavenged foam. These foam pieces are exactly how the aluminum cast will turn out, so put some effort into this step.

First make two rectangular blocks out of the foam, about a half inch think and 8.25" by 3.75".

Print out a stencil or create your own for guiding and cutting a design on the 8.25" x 3.75" foam blocks. Here is this stencil link for use in Google Sketchup. If you make your own design, you'll want ribs of some kind as part of it to strengthen the tile. The templates I made have two squares which are the ribs. Cut the features into the foam very carefully with a sharp utility knife or exact o knife. The depth of the imprint should be shallow, about 1/16". A polystyrene egg carton is about the right thickness, a meat tray is too thick.

One foam piece should have an negative impression in it and the other should have the positive impression using egg carton foam (see picture). The two pieces of foam should have some wiggle room when assembled to make room for the thinkness of the aluminum can that will be pressed when the die is finished. You'll still need to clean up the final cast with a dremel tool.

Now finally hot glue on a foam sprue on the center back of the block; this forms a channel for pouring the molten aluminum into the cast. I used a 3" long piece about .5" x .5". In the pictures you'll notice two sprues/vents but these do not work, use a single center sprue.
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112 comments
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Jan 5, 2012. 9:51 AMhalfmumi says:
Question : Can you make aluminum molds and cast aluminum inside?? Might sound silly but made me wonder...Anyone?
Aug 27, 2009. 7:45 AMinkstainedheart says:
For people that rent, you could always attach the aluminum cans directly to the ceiling using strong double-stick tape. I think this would look really cool in my bathroom...once I cover them in Rustoleum. No rust stains for me!
Dec 18, 2010. 11:08 AMAngstridden.Hipster says:
The cool thing about Aluminum is that when it rusts, it rusts clear. That is unless there are specific impurities that are present during the rusting process. In fact there is an art/science to it, it's called anodizing and it can produce some beautiful results. The best part is that the rust, although only microns thick, is as hard as Sapphire. Because Sapphire is aluminum rust.

If you decide to go that way I would love to see your results (please share with the community)!
Dec 27, 2011. 10:14 PMDeliciousMystic says:
is sapphire really aluminium rust?

Jan 3, 2012. 2:54 PMelectfire says:
Yes, Sapphire is a gemstone variety of the mineral corundum, an aluminium oxide. (Al2O3)
Aug 24, 2011. 10:21 PMTheJoshinator says:
I wonder, might it not be easier (though maybe more time-consuming) to skip the wet sand and make the dies out of concrete? Maybe something like papercrete for more tensile strength and durability under impact, but I'd think that would be a little easier and safer than casting aluminum dies, and you can do fine shaping before the concrete fully cures.

In regard to crucibles, I have no actual experience in this area myself. With that disclaimer out of the way, from what I've read about DIY metal forging and smelting one can make a pretty heat-resistant crucible from a metal container lined with a thick layer of refractory mixture that is 50% wood ash and 50% cheap kitty litter (bentonite clay), moistened with water to a paste and allowed to dry after application before being fired. Apparently, wood ash is well-known for its refractory and heat-resistant properties, and the clay acts as an inert binder. I've been told it can be used at least hot enough to forge steel (lining the inside of a BBQ forge), so you should have no problem with melting aluminum. You've got a really cool instructable here!
Jan 27, 2011. 2:46 AMstallsworth says:
i would use a press. it would have a more crisp look
Apr 16, 2009. 7:39 PMPKTraceur says:
This is amazing! Although im not a heavy (Soda!) drinker, I think I could make some interesting lamps... So, a thought/question on the "foundry." Can a hardwood be used for fuel? What addition does the hairdryer add? Does it enable it to be hotter? How can I contain the aluminium? So, you create a foam positive, to make a wetted sand negative, thus making a aluminium positive? Is that confusing? Any tips on pressing the can with the "die cast?" Any other tips? -PKT
Apr 21, 2009. 7:13 PMPKTraceur says:
How shall I come about getting a crucible? I don't like eBay, so it really isnt an option. Perhaps a steel pot? But wont that get orange-y hot? -PKT
Oct 24, 2010. 5:38 PMjoeflagstaff says:
I have purchased a few stainless kitchen utensil holders at a Ross "Dress for Less" store in my town and they hold up very well to the heat, with thinner walls than cast iron pipe
Apr 23, 2010. 6:26 PMrredmon says:
http://www.lindsaybks.com/

Check this site out.  A guy I work with gave me a catalog from this company. They sell How-To books for just about anything you can imagine, including, making a crucible.
Apr 26, 2010. 4:03 PMrredmon says:
you're quite welcome. I hope you're able to get some fun from it. so far all I've done is pine over the catalog. I'm a hopeless procrastinator with way too many hobbys...lol. I'll get around to ordering some stuff from them eventually though
Sep 8, 2009. 5:44 PMJaycub says:
A steel soup can makes an OK crucible, but they can burn through sometimes.
Aug 28, 2009. 2:54 PMfirestorm16912 says:
You could try www.budgetcastingsupply.com They have ceramic crucibles and information on metal casting.
Apr 25, 2009. 7:29 AMPKTraceur says:
Ah, turns out a camp propane tank works, however I only had a wood fire. It got hot enough, (about 1300-1350 F) but I forgot to take off the slag. Nor did I know how to. Still, its a nice chunk, and my first melt. -PKT
Apr 21, 2009. 12:56 PMGoedjn says:
Wood will EVENTUALLY get as hot as charcoal, after it's burned off all the low-temperature volatiles. The coals left after a campfire that's been burning for a few hours are an example. That's essentially what charcoal *IS*, is wood with all the water and low-temp fuels driven off by heating in the absence of oxygen. But who wants to waste the time and effort of turning logs into coals when you can just use the coals?
Apr 16, 2009. 9:26 AMtimothybena says:
This is cool and all. But why do i need to cast a die to press aluminum cans? Seems liek a lot of trouble when i could just mill, or dremel, or route a couple of wood blocks.
Apr 16, 2009. 7:16 PMTetsu57 says:
Not to knock casting but I agree, it's not worth the bother to produce dies suitable for relief forming of soft metals like aluminum or copper. I have used masonite and plastics to great success. Make a simple hydraulic press frame, use a bottle jack for a ram and amazing things can be accomplished.
May 19, 2009. 8:23 PMsharpstems says:
Do you think masonite would hold up to repeated use as well as poured aluminum? I was thinking of carving a foam positive as this guy did and pouring a negative in some sort of hard castable plastic - and then using that to pour the other piece of the die, also in plastic. How do you carve masonite? Do regular woodcarving knives work? Thanks
Oct 8, 2010. 11:39 AMcathrynm says:
Carve your design in soap (take the leavings, melt them down, pour into a square the right size, let cool), create a negative of this design in rubber molding material that you paint on the soap positive, let it cure, peel it off and you can then create positive plaster castings of your design, as many as you want to use in pressing the aluminum cans with your original design. Crack one? No problem! You can make as many positives as you like with the negative rubber mold!
Apr 18, 2009. 8:12 AMsing1ejack says:
I like the idea of a press of some sort - something quick & streamlined since so very many cans would have to be pressed. How exactly have you done this in the past?
Apr 16, 2009. 12:33 PMtimothybena says:
Fair enough!
Sep 21, 2010. 1:52 PMmary candy says:
wau
Aug 15, 2010. 3:27 AMdidgitalpunk says:
watchout for what your cans are made of. not all cans are aluminum . ther mostly of stainless steel so test games .
May 30, 2010. 8:37 AMSuperfrk says:
 This is an interesting project, so just wanting to offer a suggestion to make it better. The creases and tears are mainly because it is a rough casting. Since most people do not have milling equipment you could use a sander " belt sander or variable sander to clean up the plates so that they will fit together better, then use a finishing file or deburring   tool to take off the sharp edges.

Then just press it with your vise and a breaker bar or make a press from a car jack. The car jack method would allow more pressure applied more evenly.

Either way like I said I do really like your project looks very cool, you could even paint them with some automotive paint and apply some clear coat. 

 
May 28, 2010. 9:46 PMnickodemus says:
Truly innovative!
May 17, 2009. 11:48 AMstrmrnnr says:
The tears and rips could be from the sharp angles but the main cause is likely the sharp raps you give with the hammer. You might try a press of some sort using timber and a long lever to squeeze the plates together slower. The metal then has a little time to heat enough to deform around the angles. It would be easy with an upright on the front of your bench and a timber lever that gives you a 4:1 ratio pressing down on the plates. I like this idea of the pressed metal. You make it look real easy too. Thanks.
May 19, 2009. 3:07 PMstrmrnnr says:
Sounds like you may want to get fancy and put in guide pins so the plates are coming down the exact same everytime. Also if the positive is made first, the sharpies filed off, then a layer of latex or something the thickness of the working metal being used, then a negative made with that - the gap should be exact to match the latex - all around. Hope it helps
May 10, 2010. 2:11 PMkai_gehn says:
when we die mold something in jewelry usually we bevel the edges about 45 degrees, and press using a softer material like strmrnnr says but we use a urethane rubber in sheets and a hydrolic press. {spell checker isn't helping today} i like the idea of the wooden press

Jun 22, 2009. 7:22 AMauntwrenny says:
I was tickled by your idea since I've been doing something like this with Pop Cans for years! I've started using them for scrapbooking and jewelry making by using a scrapbooking paper punch to make creative shapes. Also, you can emboss the cans beautifully by using scrapbooking embossing tools.
Aug 27, 2009. 8:45 PMporcupinemamma says:
sounds beautiful. could you possibly show me some examples?
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Author:robbtoberfest
Stay-home Dad. I like solar energy, boating and sailing, making stuff, melting stuff, and raising chickens.