Introduction: Printed Wooden Panels for Your Home (or How to Decorate Your House Like a Nerd)

Picture of Printed Wooden Panels for Your Home (or How to Decorate Your House Like a Nerd)

This has been entered into the weekend projects contest.  If you enjoyed this Instructable, please vote for it in the contest :). Thanks so much!

This is a good weekend project since it takes time to dry in between steps.  It's easy to start on a Saturday and finish (several) on Sunday.  Even though these are all pretty much nerdy, you can do this with photos or any graphic you choose.  My house just happens to be inhabited by video game players.  If you have any questions about any step of the process, please comment and I will do my best to answer you!

Step 1: Materials Listing

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You will need the following:

1.  A laser jet (This part is important.  To see what the prints look like done in ink jet, please refer to the last step of this instructable.  It's not pretty) print in the size of your choice (Staples near my house can do up to 2'x3' cheaply.  I used 11"x11" images printed on 11"x17" paper and the prints cost about $1 each).  PROTIP:  Staples can change color photos/prints to grayscale for you.  However, BEFORE going to Staples, open the image in an editing software (MS Paint will work) and choose the option to "flip horizontally" in order to avoid any words or pictures appearing backwards.  If you don't, you'll be very, very sad (seriously, trust me on this one).
2.  A piece of plywood cut to just over the dimensions of your print (these are 12"x12" panels.  Home Depot will allow you to buy a large board and they will cut it into pieces in the store for you).
3.  Acrylic Gel Medium (purchasable in the paint section of any craft store).
4.  Mod Podge (purchasable in any craft store).
5.  Light colored wood stain.
6.  Stain rags (not pictured).
7.  Foam brush (not pictured).
8.  Paint brush (not pictured).
9.  Picture hangers (they are pictured in that small package and are in the nail/screw section of Home Depot).
10.  Screwdriver.
11.  Small paint roller or ruler (optional)

Step 2: Preparation

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Cut the print down to the proper size by trimming away the excess paper.  Bonus points if you have monkey jammie pants on.

Step 3: Gel Medium

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Using a foam brush, apply the gel medium evenly, but not too thick.  If it's too thin, the print won't stick to the board in places.  If you do it too thickly, you'll be spending a lot more time getting the paper off (although, if you could choose between the two, I'd choose the latter).  You can test this on scrap pieces of wood in advance or just wing it.  Seriously, don't be scared of this step.

Step 4: Placing the Print

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Place the print, face down, onto the board as evenly as you can.  There is SOME play here while the medium is still wet, but not a lot, so don't be too rough with it, as you don't want to tear the print.

Step 5: Get the Air Bubbles Out

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I use a small paint roller for this.  You can use a rolling pin, a ruler, or your hands.  However, you'll need to be gentle so as not to create any rips or tears.  The paint roller really works perfectly (you can get one for about $5 at Home Depot).

Step 6: Let the Waiting Begin

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Place this on a shelf somewhere and let dry overnight.  This is a good time to get others that you're going to make ready to dry too (if you wanted more than one).  You can see there are five on my shelves.  This project is easy to do in batches!  I like to do them during the early day and then let them sit until the next morning.  Now is a good time to play some video games and psych yourself up for the final product!

Edit:  Instructables user von7_11 found that a hair dryer on the lowest setting dries these fairly quickly for those of us that are impatient and want them done sooner.  Awesome, awesome tip, thank you!

Step 7: The Next Morning...

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Okay, so first, get some coffee.  This is going to be a menial and boring task that you have ahead of you.  However, it will pay off.  You will need a little bowl filled with water and a vacuum cleaner at the ready.  You need to dip your finger tips in the water and GENTLY (this is will take longer, but you are also less likely to remove large amounts of the print this way) rub in small circles directly on the paper to start exposing the magic that has occurred underneath overnight.  I like to keep a bag to dump as much of the paper flakes in as I can, but there will be lots and they WILL get on your floor as well.  Just be ready to vacuum when you're done.  For a 12"x12" square, you're looking at 30-45 minutes worth of work.  Like I said, menial.

IMPORTANT EDIT:  Please note that, when doing a lot of these, you can cause some pain in your fingers and, when attempting 9 in one day, my fingertips cracked and bled (sorry, I know that's unpleasant).  In response to this issue, I have begun making them by wrapping a cotton t-shirt rag around my finger tips and using that to rub the paper off.  This seems to have fixed the issue, as I have made 10 this week without incident.  Please take care of your fingers and do not hurt yourself.

Step 8: Keep Going, You're Almost There

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At some point, your picture will look like this.  It will look mostly done with some white.  That white stuff is paper that you still need to remove most of.  Keep going and, remember, GENTLE!

Step 9: FINALLY!

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Eventually, it will look like this.  The vast majority of the paper will be gone and you will be ready to go on to the next step.  Please note that, on this particular piece, I purposely rubbed hard in spots to achieve a distressed look.  If you know the Borderlands game series from which this came from, you'll understand that I wanted this to look like something that could be actually found in Pandora somewhere.

Step 10: Stain Your Panel

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The next step is to apply stain to the ENTIRE panel with a rag.  Allow it to sit for about 5 minutes or so and wipe it away.  You'll then want it to dry for about an hour.  I also used a black stamp pad to further distress this panel.  That is completely optional, but I wanted the borders a bit gritty looking.

Step 11: Time for Fun With Mod Podge

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Paint the entire panel with a thick layer of Mod Podge.

Step 12: Waiting...Again

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It will take about an hour for the Mod Podge to dry.  You will know it's about dry when the coating on it turns from white to clear.

Step 13: It's Finally Dry

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This is what the finished panel will look like.  You're almost done!

Step 14: Marking the Hangers

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Flip the panel over and use a marker or pen to mark one spot on each side about 1.5" from the top.

Step 15: Fastening the Hangers

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Using a manual screwdriver or an electric one (easy mode), attach the hangers to the areas you marked.

Step 16: Ta-Da

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You have successfully made one (or a ton) of neat things to hang on your walls!  Decorate your rooms and enjoy!

Step 17: EDIT (7/21/2013)

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By far and large, the most asked question has been whether this works in color.  I promised to test that and I did and I'd like to share the results here.  It ABSOLUTELY works with a color print and I'm including a photo of the finished product.

In order to answer some other questions:

Q.  What gel medium do you recommend?
A.  I have been using Liquitex gel medium in Matte.  It can be purchased online through Amazon or in any A.C. Moore store (probably at Michael's and Hobby Lobby as well).  I can't really vouch for other brands since this is the first brand I purchased and I had such good results that I haven't deviated.

Q.  Does this work on photos as well?
A.  This DOES work on photos, but you will want them printed on regular printer paper and NOT photo paper.

Q.  I have tried this, but I seem to mess up the print and it rubs off.  How can I correct this?
A.  I'd suggest using a thicker layer of the medium and also make sure you're not using a rag or hard pressure to wipe away the paper.  Your damp finger tips in a gentle circular motion will work just fine.  It will take longer, but it will also ensure the best results.

If you have any other questions, please let me know and I'd be happy to answer them!

Step 18: EDIT (7/23/2013)

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Another question I've received a few times was whether or not this worked with an ink jet printer.  The answer, oddly enough, is yes...and no.  As I rubbed the paper off, I noticed that the ink jet ink bleeds into the paper as I rubbed it (the paper was coming off in dark gray flakes instead of white).  The finished result, in my opinion, looks terrible because so much of the ink has gone away with the paper.  I guess this technically works if you were going for a "burned image into wood" look, but I personally think it looks pretty bad.  I didn't finish getting all the paper off along the sides, but the image included here has the paper removed from the entire head and heart area up top and most of the paper from the remainder of the print.  Hope this answers your question!  :)


Bigglieboo made it! (author)2016-10-06

I've made a few projects for family and friends over the past couple of years using this technique. Great instructable! The attached pictures are an example of some Christmas ornaments I made for my family last year. For the wood, I used some slices from the previous year's Christmas tree. :) Two changes I made: use a credit card to get ride of air bubbles and to firmly attach the image to the wood, and instead of Mod Podge, I used a couple coasts of spray-on polyurethane. I believe this would add a little more protection and you could achieve a high gloss finish if desired.

RichardNDL made it! (author)2016-05-13

Great instructable... so I I made this... or I'm making it. Or them. I need to finalize the cleaning and then finish with polyurathane.

I used Jpg photos. I changed them to grayscale in photoshop & reversed them. I also lightened them up...the first one I did came out way too dark.

I didn't use my fingers to rub the paper off. First off, I just used a rag made from an old towel. That worked pretty good. Then I switched to using a soft bristle toothbrush. I really liked the way that worked. By this time I decided the transferred photo was pretty impervious, so I used a "safe for teflon) kitchen scrubber. One of those things that's an artificial sponge wrapped in an nylon nhet.

I used some extra plywood I had kicking around the garage. Problem is, I couldn't sand out all of those kick marks. Even pretty minor scratches show up in the finished product.

I cut the plywood to 8.5 X ll so a sheet of regular paper fit perfectly. I had two pieces where there wasn't enough plywood left so they are narrower. I found that after it was dried, and I wet the paper, I could peel off the first (otherwise messy) layer by lifting from the overhang. Does that make sense?

At any rate, thianks for this instructable. It made me, my granddaughters, and my terriers happy. My wife, not so much. She wants the dining room table back.


csarz (author)2016-05-10

Great work my friend...but I need to know how you staind it

MelC8 made it! (author)2016-05-10

Here is one I made of my son Shayne. He was lost to suicide at the age of 17 on March 3, 2014. I have also done this with different pictures and put them on rocks. I first painted the rock with a acrylic paint then followed the same procedure for wood.

meswanson (author)MelC82016-05-10

I am so sorry for your loss, but very thankful that you are trying to help others. We all need to understand the serious and wide spread reality of mental health issues. God bless you and your family. Oh and well done photo transfer!

mkempe (author)2016-05-10

With a minor tweak, you can very successfully achieve perfect results quicker using ink jet prints. The following is what I did to make my wedding invitations on 3mm ply.

Like you, invert the image using photo software of your choice. Next, peel all the sticky labels off a sheet of labels, and throw them away but keep the waxy backing sheet, which you place in the printer. Make sure that it will print on the waxy side. Print one sheet at a time, because the ink doesn't dry on the wax. Taking care not to smudge the printing, carefully flip it over, and line it up on your wood before laying it down smoothly. Firmly hold one edge of the sheet while gently rubbing all over the image. Once you're satisfied that you've pressed it all over, carefully lift the sheet up. The ink will have transferred and dried onto the wood. Complete your project by spraying a few coats polyurethane varnish, which really brings out colour pics on rich wood grain.

dlebryk (author)2016-05-10

This is such an awesome idea. An awesome write up of how to do this.

You're absolutely right about the vast majority of inkjet printers not working.

However pigment based inkjet printers will most likely work. The reason the inkjet print smeared is because it uses dye based inks. They are water soluble even after they are dry. So the water used to rub off the paper dissolved the dye and it smeared.

Pigments aren't water soluble, so they should stay stuck to the board. Epson DuraBrite ink (mostly Workforce printers), Canon Pixma Pro printers (a small number of higher end Canon office printers use durable ink), and OfficeJet (NOT DeskJet) HP Professional Durability ink are all pigment based ink.

Here is a long list of printer models that use pigment based ink:

mattcintosh (author)2016-05-10

Have you ever had a page jam in a laser printer before it hits the fuser and when you take it out the toner is perfectly on the sheet, but if you touch it it falls off...

What disabled the fuser somehow in the printer, had a printer where the pages come out face up, carefully lay a piece of wood on the paper, flip it over and hit it with a hot iron. Would it make a transfer?

sgtslag (author)mattcintosh2016-05-10

Technically, this is feasible; realistically, I would not try it. I worked as a laser printer repair technician for numerous years. The toner (plastic beads, very, very small, and lightweight) are transferred to the paper sheet by electrostatic charge, and if you blow on the sheet, they will smear, at the least. The only way to get the paper before it has the toner melted onto the page, is to stop the printer before the paper enters the Fuser Assembly -- you won't get the full image on the page, as it enters the Fuser Assembly before the page has been fully imaged. By pulling the paper through the Feed Assembly, manually, you could damage the printer, leading to expensive repairs. The technique discussed here, is easier, and will produce better results. Cheers!

zombateen (author)2016-05-10

Why Modge Podge? I would prefer to use a good Varathane type matte, water based product. I am thinking of putting an image on the back of a box guitar I'm building and it will need a number of protective layers. I can't see why the Varathane won't work but you might. Thanks. Great information!

InsaneSanity made it! (author)2014-09-06

I did it on my custom Mini Cruiser skateboard!

biskies (author)InsaneSanity2014-09-06

That is INSANELY awesome!!!

lfoss (author)biskies2016-05-10

Pun intended..

InsaneSanity (author)biskies2014-09-06

Haha thanks :D

All because of this awesome instructable!

dollarseed (author)2016-05-10

Great job explaining the process. Another method for transferring laser printed pictures onto wood, is by using a wood burner with the round flat transfer tip. It takes almost as long, but the results are nearly the same.

T0L4 (author)2015-04-24

Thanks a lot for your instruction!

I used a similar method to make a necklace with the white tree of gondor from "lord of the rings". First I tried to draw really fine lines but i failed and after studying your posting I got to print it on the white background. And what could I say - it looks awesome!
Thanks so much.

marnold15 made it! (author)2014-12-29

I've tried this using so many different methods and guides found online. Yours, however, is the best "how to" I've come across; super clear instructions, affordable tools, step by step photos. You rock. My transfer is GORGEOUS! Whats pictured is the image transferred portion of an unfinished mixed media project (pic of my son, gift to my dad). Anyhow, THANK YOU!

ryanjamesburr (author)2014-12-19

Will this work on Plexiglas?

btoliver (author)2014-12-13

Anyone know where I can get cheaper prints everything is in the 4.00-7.00 range.

drtoni (author)2014-11-06

Hi- great instructable! I made some panels last week. I'm working on the finishing touches this week.. What type of wood stain did you use? Is there a concern that the gel medium on the wood might interfere with the staining of the wood? Is there a better type of stain to use? Ie., water based, oil based, etc? Thanks

Monkuin (author)2014-10-11

Hi! I LOVE borderlands and since the pre-sequel is coming out I wanted to do the picture you did, but I wanted to know how you made it a square image? On google the picture was rectangular and was wondering if you did it in paint or a person at staples did it?

biskies (author)2014-09-06

So glad it was helpful! This looks totally incredible!

5923r (author)2014-04-14

what if i just used a regular printed ink picture?...

CabbitCastle (author)2014-03-19



I really gotta make myself some of those.

delusiondejavu (author)2014-01-21

This is my final result and I am so happy with the results. I used some distress ink pads around the edges...

biskies (author)delusiondejavu2014-01-26

I LOOOOOVE this!!!

Battlespeed (author)2014-01-26

Could you be more specific about the type of plywood you used? There's a jillion different kinds. Thanks!

biskies (author)Battlespeed2014-01-26

You can literally use any kind you want, depending on the shade of wood you want on your final product. The only thing that's off limits is treated wood. Steer clear from that.

delusiondejavu (author)2014-01-12

I followed your guide but used Gorilla Wood Glue instead of gel. Thought you would appreciate my picture as it is game related. It worked well for my first attempt at any craft... One note: I used a piece of packing sponge that comes in computer boxes to remove the paper so I didn't have to abuse my fingers :)

biskies (author)delusiondejavu2014-01-12

Fallout. I dig it!! It looks fantastic!!!

delusiondejavu (author)2014-01-12

Here was my second attempt and I love the result. Thanks for the great tutorial.

Battlespeed (author)2013-12-20

Looks like it would be possible to take this idea a bit further in a number of ways - for instance, applying metallic embossing powders to selected areas of the image, creating a border with gold/silver/copper leaf, etc.

Kellyhughes_7 (author)2013-12-20

I've signed up just to post this comment. Love this instructable and finally got round to trying it last night. I wasn't sure if it was working or not and was about to give up as my finger was getting really sore after about a square inch and I thought from what I could see that the image was ruined. My solution? Use a rubber instead of your finger (sorry americans I mean an 'eraser'). It made the process so much easier and I could get away with lots of pressure, not to mention a pain free finger. You still need to dampen the paper a bit but seriously, what a difference!
Also; for anyone unsure about what medium to use to get the image onto the wood; I used PVA glue (no added water or other glues) and it worked perfectly fine.
Hope this helps someone and thanks for the great instructable.

Pinguino72 (author)2013-12-12

How finished does the wood need to be? I got some semi-finished sheets of plywood that are very smooth to the touch.. Do I need to sand it down even further? How finished and smooth does the wood need to be?

biskies (author)Pinguino722013-12-12

You will definitely need raw wood, unfinished. If you have semi-finished plywood, you will definitely need to sand it down a bit to remove the finish.

kde'laney (author)2013-11-19

I love this idea and will be trying it in the near future now that I'm on holidays. Congratulations on winning the weekends project competition!

twold (author)2013-10-16

I know you've probably already answered this and I'm just not seeing it, but how big were the images you brought in for printing? I.e. 1280x1080, 800x600? I'm guessing I'd have to square them, obviously =P, but I don't want to bring in something and have it be a pixelated print.

mrosjorde (author)2013-10-02

Thank you for the fantastic article ;).. Just wanted to mention a quick tip. I always add tape (I use paper tape) to the paper (on the back) after i glue it to the board. This will help take away most of the paper after it has dried. Also it will protect the paper when you make sure that there is no air bubbles.



ASCAS (author)2013-09-11

Genius! That's what you call innovative art! BTW, congratulations for winning the W.P. contest.

All this time, I never thought of using the toner transfer method on wood, I usually use it for PCBs. BTW, If you run out of ink, you might a well try the photocopier machine, the toner works for me.

Thanks for the well explained ible! I hope to see more of your future projects. Cheers! :D

biskies (author)ASCAS2013-09-11

Thank you so much for the awesome compliment!!

Caironater (author)2013-09-04

Do you have any idea if this would work with MDF boards?

ASCAS (author)Caironater2013-09-11

In fact it does. When I iron the toner paper to my PCBs , I use a block of MDF wood as a platform. The toner/ ink stick to the wood, all you need is rubbing.

biskies (author)Caironater2013-09-05

No idea, but I can give it a shot and post the results! :)

Caironater (author)biskies2013-09-05

OK, thanks! :)
The 'structable looks really nice.

biskies (author)Caironater2013-09-05

Thank you very much!!

iharper (author)2013-09-04

Will a laser printer work?

biskies (author)iharper2013-09-04

Yes, ONLY a laser jet printer will work. Ink jets will NOT work. :)

Hope that helps!

poofrabbit (author)2013-08-31

Hey congratulations on being a finalist in the weekend projects contest! These look great and you sparked an idea! Good luck!

biskies (author)poofrabbit2013-08-31

Thanks so much! The projects that made the finalists are super impressive, so I'm not holding my breath, but, at the very least, it's another year of pro and a t-shirt and I'll take those all day, any day :)

poofrabbit (author)biskies2013-08-31

That's a great attitude to have! :)

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