For the furnace, two five gallon metal buckets (with lids) were used, a piece of 3-inch stove pipe, hair dryer, and of course, some duct tape.
For a crucible (the little bucket that holds the melted metal), a 16 oz propane bottle was used; the top was cut off and some bolts were added for grabbing the crucible with the tongs.
I made some basic tools with some scrap steel from an old bed box spring. You'll need tongs for the crucible, some kind of shepard's hook to tip the crucible when pouring, and a plain rod with a little bend at the tip for poking things and skimming out the dross (impurities in the aluminum).
Use of this equipment shown is dangerous because of very high temperature molten metal, fumes and smoke, etc. Use caution and be safe by wearing leather gloves, face protection, and other protective clothing. Do this outdoors and use it when it's a little windy so the smoke and fumes quickly dissipate, also use this during dry conditions because dripping molten metal on wet surfaces can cause little hot metal explosions (like water and hot oil in the kitchen). I'm not liable for any injuries you may occur using the equipment and techniques shown here.
Read, read, read lots of metal casting stuff before starting.
Casting Aluminum at submarineboat.com
BackyardMetalcasting.com ...Melting and casting metal yourself
Here's a silent movie of the foundry at work.
Step 1: The Furnace
The hair dryer needs to have the "cold" button taped for use as just a blower; tape the hair dryer into the stove pipe, then insert the pipe into the bucket . Air flow is the most important part of this, I first used a little 1.5 inch pipe, but it just wasn't enough air volume to get the charcoal really nice and hot.
The bottom of one metal bucket is cut off about 2 inches from the bottom; a lot of holes are punched in center 6 inches of that piece and it's inserted into the main bucket as a burning base.
Keep the lids, one lid should have a 3 inch vent hole in it for burning and the other lid should be left unchanged for snuffing out the fire.
Step 2: Crucible
Use a hack saw and cut off the top of a little camping propane tank (make sure its empty first).
Drill holes near the top of the cut tank for inserting some large bolts; these are for picking up the crucible.
Use a hammer and knock a pouring lip into the edge of the crucible.
Step 3: Tools
These are the tools needed:
- Hook tongs for lifting the crucible by its bolts.
- A shepard's hook for tipping and pouring the crucible
- A dross stick for skimming out the metal impurities.
- Grill tongs
- Large adjustable pliers
Step 4: Safety and Use
- Wear leather gloves, long sleeve non-synthetic clothing, preferably leather and thick cotton and leather boots, no flip-flops no matter how fun it sounds to have a hole fried into your foot. Also a hat to keep embers out of your hair.
- Have a garden hose charged and ready for fires.
- Work over dry dirt.
- Have something ready to pour into; a mold in green sand for casting or regular dry sand when foam casting; many backyard casting people use steel muffin molds to make nice little ingots.
- The first use of this is the stinkiest because of all the paint burning off the bucket and crucible, after that it's not so bad. It's best to do this on a slightly windy day.
Have all the safety gear on, turn off the blower, remove the lid and use the tools to grab the crucible and pour.
In the picture below, all my sand got wet just before I wanted to melt some metal, so I used clay kitty litter for a quick lost foam casting test . I don't recommend kitty litter; see all the lumps and pieces still stuck in the cast. Lost foam casting is using a piece of shaped styrofoam stuck in dry sand, then pouring in the molten metal which burns out the foam and takes its place.
Lost foam casting at submarineboat.com
Have fun, I know I love it and will probably make a higher quality setup sometime.