This Instructable shows a quick and cheap setup to melt a few batches of aluminum for casting before the thin metal equipment starts to break down. Actually the 5-gallon bucket furnace will last quite a long time, over a dozen uses easily. This uses BBQ charcoal as the fuel and a hair dryer as the blower, it'll melt a small batch of aluminum in about 10 minutes. Most of the materials to build this can be found in dumpsters; the only cost here is the charcoal fuel, duct tape, and the $1 yard sale hair dryer. Recycle old lawnmower parts, computer/stereo parts, and beer and soda cans to make awesome new things with them.
For the furnace, two five gallon metal buckets (with lids) were used, a piece of 3-inch stove pipe, hair dryer, and of course, some duct tape.
For a crucible (the little bucket that holds the melted metal), a 16 oz propane bottle was used; the top was cut off and some bolts were added for grabbing the crucible with the tongs.
I made some basic tools with some scrap steel from an old bed box spring. You'll need tongs for the crucible, some kind of shepard's hook to tip the crucible when pouring, and a plain rod with a little bend at the tip for poking things and skimming out the dross (impurities in the aluminum).
Use of this equipment shown is dangerous because of very high temperature molten metal, fumes and smoke, etc. Use caution and be safe by wearing leather gloves, face protection, and other protective clothing. Do this outdoors and use it when it's a little windy so the smoke and fumes quickly dissipate, also use this during dry conditions because dripping molten metal on wet surfaces can cause little hot metal explosions (like water and hot oil in the kitchen). I'm not liable for any injuries you may occur using the equipment and techniques shown here.
Read, read, read lots of metal casting stuff before starting.
Casting Aluminum at submarineboat.com
Home Foundry
BackyardMetalcasting.com ...Melting and casting metal yourself
Here's a silent movie of the foundry at work.
For the furnace, two five gallon metal buckets (with lids) were used, a piece of 3-inch stove pipe, hair dryer, and of course, some duct tape.
For a crucible (the little bucket that holds the melted metal), a 16 oz propane bottle was used; the top was cut off and some bolts were added for grabbing the crucible with the tongs.
I made some basic tools with some scrap steel from an old bed box spring. You'll need tongs for the crucible, some kind of shepard's hook to tip the crucible when pouring, and a plain rod with a little bend at the tip for poking things and skimming out the dross (impurities in the aluminum).
Use of this equipment shown is dangerous because of very high temperature molten metal, fumes and smoke, etc. Use caution and be safe by wearing leather gloves, face protection, and other protective clothing. Do this outdoors and use it when it's a little windy so the smoke and fumes quickly dissipate, also use this during dry conditions because dripping molten metal on wet surfaces can cause little hot metal explosions (like water and hot oil in the kitchen). I'm not liable for any injuries you may occur using the equipment and techniques shown here.
Read, read, read lots of metal casting stuff before starting.
Casting Aluminum at submarineboat.com
Home Foundry
BackyardMetalcasting.com ...Melting and casting metal yourself
Here's a silent movie of the foundry at work.
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Signing UpStep 1: The furnace
Using tin snips, cut a hole in the bottom side of one of the buckets to fit the 3 inch diameter stove pipe.
The hair dryer needs to have the "cold" button taped for use as just a blower; tape the hair dryer into the stove pipe, then insert the pipe into the bucket . Air flow is the most important part of this, I first used a little 1.5 inch pipe, but it just wasn't enough air volume to get the charcoal really nice and hot.
The bottom of one metal bucket is cut off about 2 inches from the bottom; a lot of holes are punched in center 6 inches of that piece and it's inserted into the main bucket as a burning base.
Keep the lids, one lid should have a 3 inch vent hole in it for burning and the other lid should be left unchanged for snuffing out the fire.
The hair dryer needs to have the "cold" button taped for use as just a blower; tape the hair dryer into the stove pipe, then insert the pipe into the bucket . Air flow is the most important part of this, I first used a little 1.5 inch pipe, but it just wasn't enough air volume to get the charcoal really nice and hot.
The bottom of one metal bucket is cut off about 2 inches from the bottom; a lot of holes are punched in center 6 inches of that piece and it's inserted into the main bucket as a burning base.
Keep the lids, one lid should have a 3 inch vent hole in it for burning and the other lid should be left unchanged for snuffing out the fire.
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Also could I use crushed pop cans, trust me I have enough.
This should create a stronger metal mix.
I wouldn't recommend it but i suppose you could add 5% gold.
(I get my gold by panning in North Wales, UK)
That would give you strength.
Awesome instructable, along with your tile making dye/stamps! You rock!
Thanks for posting the tutorial. I've been trying to devise something of this ilk myself.
Just a safety observation --- I noticed you suggested using galvanized pipe for an airfeed. Getting galvanized pipe very hot (very hot being about 1665 degrees F) is very dangerous, because the zinc will vaporize at that temperature. Vaporized zinc can cause some very serious health problems, including death. (see http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/safety3/index.htm ). I think perhaps black iron would be a much better alternative, especially for more high powered furnaces.
If someone wanted to still use galvanized pipe, you can remove the galvanization by a bath in muriatic acid. How to make sure you've successfully etched all the zinc off is beyond what I've researched, however.